LumberJocks Woodworking Forum banner
  • Please post in our Community Feedback thread for help with the new forum software! If you are having trouble logging in, please Contact Us for assistance.
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
I am new in the trade and I was looking for tips on how to properly use a jointer. How do you pick the first face to joint. Do you pick the face with the bow going upward or downward? And why would one choice be better than the other? It sounds basic but I don't want to screw up!!

Thanks in advande
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,628 Posts
A complete discussion of jointer use is a pretty broad subject to cover. I'll suggest that you obtain a copy of "Woodworking Wisdom", in which types of jointers and jointer use is well covered by author Nick Engler. This book is out of print, but can easily be found on internet book sources at very reasonable cost.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,866 Posts
to address the one point you bring out…i always pick the side that is the flattest..join it until you have a totally flat surface, then of coarse use the table saw to get your board flat on the other side..if its a wide board that will be used for more then one project…you will just cut off enough of the other side so its all flat…and of coarse as suggested a good book to get you learned on the joiner is always good…i never read a book..i learned a few basics and then put 14 years of use into it so far…nothing like experience to be a teacher…good luck…grizzman
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
At school we learned to joint the most bowed side first, enough to get it flat (even if it has some rough surface its ok as long as the majority is flat it will run smoothly on the planer bed) and then move on to the planer, cleaning the opposite face then flipping it to do the side you jointed initially.
gotta watch grain direction too. you want to feed the board so you push down the grain not tear it out. looking on the side of the board the grain should slope downward from the start end of your board toward the back.
it`s like petting a dog its smooth one way rough the other. if you go the wrong way you`ll end up with tear out.

though i`m still new to woodworking and still at school so i`m sure these guys with more knowledge will have some better advice! (or at least explain that better)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,820 Posts
To answer your question about the bow:
Depending on the amount of bow, if it's fairly well bowed, place the board on the bed so that the cutter is at the center of the bow. Taking light cuts, run the trailing end across the cutter, then reverse and joint the other end. Continue this until you get a surface that will remain flat as it goes through the planer.
For slight bows, just run them across the cutters as normal, switching ends for each pass.
There are various methods to using the planer for Jointing faces. Here's the one I use.
Planer sled
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
203 Posts
Joint the board with the concave side down on the jointer bed. If you think about the purpose of the jointer, and the geometry of the board, this becomes common sense … the purpose of the jointer is to create a perfectly flat face on your board, if you place a board with the convex side down, it will rock when you push it through; on the other hand, with the concave side down, the board has two stable points to rest on.

Twist in a board is a little harder to deal with. You have to run the board through on basically three points so rocking can be a bit more of a problem, but you'll find that with a couple of passes, it becomes easier.

Pay attention to grain direction. You don't want lots of tearout.

Pay attention to the way you put pressure on the board. Down on the infeed side to start, balanced in the middle, and down on the outfeed side at the end. But, not too much downward pressure, you don't want to push the top of a bow down onto the table because you'll just end up with a thinner board with a bow in it.

I seem to recall seeing a good article or two online. A google search or some digging through one of the magazine sights might get you a good technique article that is more cohesive and better written than what you will find here. (No offense meant guys.)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27,252 Posts
Alexandre, you also might want to take a look at the videos that Keith Cruickshank has produced on this. He has posted two videos, which encompass the 8 steps to milling rough lumber. The first one discusses how to use a jointer to process rough lumber.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,044 Posts
I am not an expert on using a jointer but my method works good for me.
For face jointing:
I usually place the board on the jointer with the bow up in the middle. Most of the time, the ends of the board will make contact but spots in between won't. Before I start, I draw lines on the surface to be jointed (when the lines are gone, you can check it with a straight edge). I then lay the board on a flat surface (my table saw if possible). I use a finger to put pressure on the board down both sides. Where I push down and the board doesn't move, I make a mark (usually an X). I then run the board through the jointer placing the most pressure on where these marks are. Stop and check every few passes because it is likely that these pressure points will change. When they do, I use an O so I don't get confused. You'll be able to tell by the sound that the jointer blades are making that you're getting contact all the way down the board. That's when you use the flat edge to make sure the board is flat and all the lines (drawn to begin with) are gone….. Then it's on to the planer.

When I use uniform pressure on a board, I usually end up with a wedge. The board will be thin on one end and thick on the other.

I hope this helps. Sounds kinda hard to do, but after you do it a few times, it's easy. I was really confused about face jointing boards when I first got my jointer. Then a LJ member (can't remember his handle) kinda pointed me in the right direction. He was rude as hell, but I really owe him a beer for setting me straight.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
238 Posts
I have never jointed a board that had the grain run true for the length of the board. If you put the board through based on the grain direction I guarantee you'll cut someplace on the board where it switches…rendering that a moot point. If your blades are properly sharp you shouldn't have much problem unless you're doing something really burly…in which case it's still a moot point.

All that marking business…hhmm..To me it's alot simpler to hold the board up to the light [and look at the glare on the jointed surface] after a pass. You can see where the jointer is cutting. Run the board through, look at it, get it done.

Bow up for sure. Bias your down pressure to the outfeed table as long as you hear it cutting. If it stops cutting, the board is high so don't push down….you'll just bend the board and falsely face the board but not flatten….continue to push forward.

I never flatten the whole thing. When you hold it up to the light, estimate if it will sit well in the planer under drive pressure….whether the board has enough spots to stay supported.

Main point is bow up gives you two places of support, bow down can allow it to rock. Just don't press the bend out of it when feeding.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
727 Posts
I am new to learning the jointer as well and it seems like it's going to be a learn through experience touch/feel process on face and edge jointing.

So far I have found it best to take multiple light passes on both face and edge, so I can see what is going on with the board. Kinda neat to watch it gradually flatten until you can hear the blades cutting the entire board.

I don't have perfect fit yet on my jointed boards but its getting there and it light years ahead of anything I have ever achieved fit wise from dimensional lumber from big box stores.

I watched some online videos that newwoodworker and Charles Neil had posted before I started using the machine.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top