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There are in deed taps and dies for wood. They cut a thread more like a acme thread. they are available at ebay and amazon. The problem for me is that they really need well dried , hardwood like Maple or another similar hardwood. I have considered buying a set myself but what size is best and do I really want to but an assortment of them . They are reasonably priced but from what I have read are cantankerous some times. I also think you could use the ones for metal as long as the diameter isn't too small and the thread count is fairly low, perhaps no more than 8 TPI. on a 1" shaft. Let me know what ever comes of it, I would be interested in the results.
 

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I have threaded into wood extensively with my DIY bandsaw project. I found that I got the best results when I:

  • Use large, coarse thread sizes, like 3/8-16, 1/2-13 or larger.
  • Use a smaller pre-drill size than what would be used with metal.
  • Saturate the tapped or threaded wood with a thinned epoxy mixture. Thin epoxy with a reasonable amount of acetone immediately after mixing it so that it flows and penetrates deeply into the wood fibers.
  • Run the tap or die quickly back over the wood after the epoxy cures.

I did a test with this method, using a 1" long 1/2-13 flanged hex bolt and with a pretty beefy 18v impact driver I was not able to make the hex bolt strip the threads out.
 

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I thread wood all the time… although using taps; never tried using a die. No problem threading holes at all. I make wood faceplates for my lathe which has a 3/4"-10 spindle, and I routinely drill and tap wood to use set screws in, which are usually #8-32's or #10-24's. When drilling the hole, I try to go a size smaller than recommended for metal so I get better thread contact. Never used epoxy, poly or anything else, and never felt the need to.

Cheers,
Brad
 

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Since have no idea what you are trying to do see if any of this will get you going!

Many woodworking venders sell this type tap & die sets. Many people have trouble getting threads to work. People that make their own seem to have better luck. You can reviews online for commercial sets and find plans to make your own.

http://www.garrettwade.com/complete-tap-die-set-1-2-in/p/98N11.01/

Lot of turners use these spindle taps to make their own faceplates!

http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=packard&Product_Code=113901&Category_Code=

http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=packard&Product_Code=113902&Category_Code=

If want to try thread chasing by hand can buy complete set or internal/external thread chasers. Can also make your own! Have yet to find a domestic hardwood where threads don't crumble. I do well with PVC pipe. These tools excel on exotic hardwoods. Thread chasing technique almost idiot proof!

http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/138/1231/Robert-Sorby-Complete-Thread-Cutting-Set
 

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For small tapping small holes 1/2" or less an ordinary metal taps work fine. I drill a slightly undersized hole then chuck the tap in a cordless drill and slowly tap the hole. I like to reinforce the threads w/ thin super glue. Make sure the glue is completely cured before inserting the bolt or knob or whatever.
 

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15 or 20 years ago I bought a tap and die set for wood. It was the size of a broom stick thread. Used it to make the runners for a Boy Scout Klondike sled. The rules in my Council were very strict. Natural materials only. No metal fasteners or glue. Used a maple tree about 4" in Dia. at the base. Split it in half with a rip blade in a band saw. Had the boys drill holes in each runner for the uprights. Tapped them and then screwed in the threaded uprights. Hand planed off what ever stuck out of the bottom and smoothed the runners at the same time. That sled was pulled about 5 miles over snow and dirt all day. never loosened up. The event judges made them cut out one of the joints to prove how it was put together. It sat behind my house for another 5 years and was still tight as a drum.
 
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