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Third cholla bowl

5957 Views 67 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  DavePolaschek
Building the blank

Started making the pieces for another cholla bowl this morning, and figured there's been enough interest in what I've done that I should write it up.

The first step is building a base on a faceplate for my lathe. I've been aiming at bowls that are 6-10 inches in diameter, so I generally put a pine 1×6 on the faceplate, and then put a couple pieces of 1×6 across that to get up to the size I want.

Then I cut it round-ish on the bandsaw, and turn it round (and about 10 inches in diameter) on the lathe.

Wood Boats and boating--Equipment and supplies Varnish Tints and shades Circle


I stick blue tape on the joints. That helps keep the epoxy from running through the joints and making a mess in my shop.

Idiophone Wood Engineering Gas Auto part


Next, I stick a piece of blue tape around the edge of the base. Just one or two turns, but I try to stick it to the edge of the base as best I can. I'm going to be pouring epoxy into this and I don't want a leak.

I should note that I've already cleaned the cholla. If there's any material in the middle of a piece, I poke it out with a long screwdriver.

Next is putting in the cholla. In my first two bowls, I stood pieces of cholla on end. This time I'm going to try laying them circumferentially.

Wood Rectangle Staple food Natural material Composite material


If the pieces go a little beyond the tape, that's ok. And if there are gaps, I plan to fill them with the next layer. So now it's time to mix up some epoxy. 50ml of System 3 Fast Hardener, 100ml of System 3 General Purpose Resin, and 22 drops of TransTint Aqua for the first pour. That makes a fairly pale almost sky blue.

Second pour is another 150ml of epoxy (5 oz), this time with about 35 drops of Aqua, and 5 drops of TransTint Lemon Yellow. Definitely green, but I think still thin enough that it'll let light through. I pour this aiming to hit areas that didn't get any epoxy in the first pour (cholla will form dams) and I concentrated on pouring over pieces of cholla that looked dry inside. I also stuck in a few more pieces of cholla (small broken chunks) to fill any small gaps that looked wrong to me.

Wood Metal Plastic wrap Food Electric blue


At this point, there are still a few spots where I can see the dry pine base. But after this epoxy cures overnight, I'll put on another few wraps of tape, building the sides up to 1.5 to 2 inches high, lay in more cholla, and then pour the next two colors of epoxy. I'll probably set the base slightly off-level so that the epoxy pools more on one side. I'm guessing I'll have a total of four pours of two colors of epoxy (they mix a little, but the cholla will segregate the colors a bit, plus the first of two pours starts to harden before I get the second poured), and I'm leaning towards red and violet tints for the next batch.

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Building the blank

Started making the pieces for another cholla bowl this morning, and figured there's been enough interest in what I've done that I should write it up.

The first step is building a base on a faceplate for my lathe. I've been aiming at bowls that are 6-10 inches in diameter, so I generally put a pine 1×6 on the faceplate, and then put a couple pieces of 1×6 across that to get up to the size I want.

Then I cut it round-ish on the bandsaw, and turn it round (and about 10 inches in diameter) on the lathe.

Wood Boats and boating--Equipment and supplies Varnish Tints and shades Circle


I stick blue tape on the joints. That helps keep the epoxy from running through the joints and making a mess in my shop.

Idiophone Wood Engineering Gas Auto part


Next, I stick a piece of blue tape around the edge of the base. Just one or two turns, but I try to stick it to the edge of the base as best I can. I'm going to be pouring epoxy into this and I don't want a leak.

I should note that I've already cleaned the cholla. If there's any material in the middle of a piece, I poke it out with a long screwdriver.

Next is putting in the cholla. In my first two bowls, I stood pieces of cholla on end. This time I'm going to try laying them circumferentially.

Wood Rectangle Staple food Natural material Composite material


If the pieces go a little beyond the tape, that's ok. And if there are gaps, I plan to fill them with the next layer. So now it's time to mix up some epoxy. 50ml of System 3 Fast Hardener, 100ml of System 3 General Purpose Resin, and 22 drops of TransTint Aqua for the first pour. That makes a fairly pale almost sky blue.

Second pour is another 150ml of epoxy (5 oz), this time with about 35 drops of Aqua, and 5 drops of TransTint Lemon Yellow. Definitely green, but I think still thin enough that it'll let light through. I pour this aiming to hit areas that didn't get any epoxy in the first pour (cholla will form dams) and I concentrated on pouring over pieces of cholla that looked dry inside. I also stuck in a few more pieces of cholla (small broken chunks) to fill any small gaps that looked wrong to me.

Wood Metal Plastic wrap Food Electric blue


At this point, there are still a few spots where I can see the dry pine base. But after this epoxy cures overnight, I'll put on another few wraps of tape, building the sides up to 1.5 to 2 inches high, lay in more cholla, and then pour the next two colors of epoxy. I'll probably set the base slightly off-level so that the epoxy pools more on one side. I'm guessing I'll have a total of four pours of two colors of epoxy (they mix a little, but the cholla will segregate the colors a bit, plus the first of two pours starts to harden before I get the second poured), and I'm leaning towards red and violet tints for the next batch.
Cool write up on your process Dave.
I like the idea of the homemade faceplate that is part of the epoxy disk, very clever.
Can't wait to see the results of this piece.
Thanks for sharing.

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Building the blank

Started making the pieces for another cholla bowl this morning, and figured there's been enough interest in what I've done that I should write it up.

The first step is building a base on a faceplate for my lathe. I've been aiming at bowls that are 6-10 inches in diameter, so I generally put a pine 1×6 on the faceplate, and then put a couple pieces of 1×6 across that to get up to the size I want.

Then I cut it round-ish on the bandsaw, and turn it round (and about 10 inches in diameter) on the lathe.

Wood Boats and boating--Equipment and supplies Varnish Tints and shades Circle


I stick blue tape on the joints. That helps keep the epoxy from running through the joints and making a mess in my shop.

Idiophone Wood Engineering Gas Auto part


Next, I stick a piece of blue tape around the edge of the base. Just one or two turns, but I try to stick it to the edge of the base as best I can. I'm going to be pouring epoxy into this and I don't want a leak.

I should note that I've already cleaned the cholla. If there's any material in the middle of a piece, I poke it out with a long screwdriver.

Next is putting in the cholla. In my first two bowls, I stood pieces of cholla on end. This time I'm going to try laying them circumferentially.

Wood Rectangle Staple food Natural material Composite material


If the pieces go a little beyond the tape, that's ok. And if there are gaps, I plan to fill them with the next layer. So now it's time to mix up some epoxy. 50ml of System 3 Fast Hardener, 100ml of System 3 General Purpose Resin, and 22 drops of TransTint Aqua for the first pour. That makes a fairly pale almost sky blue.

Second pour is another 150ml of epoxy (5 oz), this time with about 35 drops of Aqua, and 5 drops of TransTint Lemon Yellow. Definitely green, but I think still thin enough that it'll let light through. I pour this aiming to hit areas that didn't get any epoxy in the first pour (cholla will form dams) and I concentrated on pouring over pieces of cholla that looked dry inside. I also stuck in a few more pieces of cholla (small broken chunks) to fill any small gaps that looked wrong to me.

Wood Metal Plastic wrap Food Electric blue


At this point, there are still a few spots where I can see the dry pine base. But after this epoxy cures overnight, I'll put on another few wraps of tape, building the sides up to 1.5 to 2 inches high, lay in more cholla, and then pour the next two colors of epoxy. I'll probably set the base slightly off-level so that the epoxy pools more on one side. I'm guessing I'll have a total of four pours of two colors of epoxy (they mix a little, but the cholla will segregate the colors a bit, plus the first of two pours starts to harden before I get the second poured), and I'm leaning towards red and violet tints for the next batch.
Have you thought about doing the pouring process in a plastic garbage can that you could cut off when the epoxy cures?

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Building the blank

Started making the pieces for another cholla bowl this morning, and figured there's been enough interest in what I've done that I should write it up.

The first step is building a base on a faceplate for my lathe. I've been aiming at bowls that are 6-10 inches in diameter, so I generally put a pine 1×6 on the faceplate, and then put a couple pieces of 1×6 across that to get up to the size I want.

Then I cut it round-ish on the bandsaw, and turn it round (and about 10 inches in diameter) on the lathe.

Wood Boats and boating--Equipment and supplies Varnish Tints and shades Circle


I stick blue tape on the joints. That helps keep the epoxy from running through the joints and making a mess in my shop.

Idiophone Wood Engineering Gas Auto part


Next, I stick a piece of blue tape around the edge of the base. Just one or two turns, but I try to stick it to the edge of the base as best I can. I'm going to be pouring epoxy into this and I don't want a leak.

I should note that I've already cleaned the cholla. If there's any material in the middle of a piece, I poke it out with a long screwdriver.

Next is putting in the cholla. In my first two bowls, I stood pieces of cholla on end. This time I'm going to try laying them circumferentially.

Wood Rectangle Staple food Natural material Composite material


If the pieces go a little beyond the tape, that's ok. And if there are gaps, I plan to fill them with the next layer. So now it's time to mix up some epoxy. 50ml of System 3 Fast Hardener, 100ml of System 3 General Purpose Resin, and 22 drops of TransTint Aqua for the first pour. That makes a fairly pale almost sky blue.

Second pour is another 150ml of epoxy (5 oz), this time with about 35 drops of Aqua, and 5 drops of TransTint Lemon Yellow. Definitely green, but I think still thin enough that it'll let light through. I pour this aiming to hit areas that didn't get any epoxy in the first pour (cholla will form dams) and I concentrated on pouring over pieces of cholla that looked dry inside. I also stuck in a few more pieces of cholla (small broken chunks) to fill any small gaps that looked wrong to me.

Wood Metal Plastic wrap Food Electric blue


At this point, there are still a few spots where I can see the dry pine base. But after this epoxy cures overnight, I'll put on another few wraps of tape, building the sides up to 1.5 to 2 inches high, lay in more cholla, and then pour the next two colors of epoxy. I'll probably set the base slightly off-level so that the epoxy pools more on one side. I'm guessing I'll have a total of four pours of two colors of epoxy (they mix a little, but the cholla will segregate the colors a bit, plus the first of two pours starts to harden before I get the second poured), and I'm leaning towards red and violet tints for the next batch.
Thanks, Jon! I end up turning away all of that pine so far, but I've pondered leaving it as a feature ring… maybe this is the time I'll do that.

Earl, I have, but I have a lot of pine scraps left over from my bookcase build, and blue tape is pretty cheap. And this way the edge of the "mold" can vary a little if I have a piece of cholla sticking out. And if I notice a leak mid-pour, I just slap on some more blue tape to plug the leak. Also, building the mold as I go means I don't have a preset height limit. I make the blank thick enough to "look right." That's generally been in the neighborhood of 2" thick, but I might go thicker this time and stick a plastic tub in the middle to make the center of the bowl…

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Building the blank

Started making the pieces for another cholla bowl this morning, and figured there's been enough interest in what I've done that I should write it up.

The first step is building a base on a faceplate for my lathe. I've been aiming at bowls that are 6-10 inches in diameter, so I generally put a pine 1×6 on the faceplate, and then put a couple pieces of 1×6 across that to get up to the size I want.

Then I cut it round-ish on the bandsaw, and turn it round (and about 10 inches in diameter) on the lathe.

Wood Boats and boating--Equipment and supplies Varnish Tints and shades Circle


I stick blue tape on the joints. That helps keep the epoxy from running through the joints and making a mess in my shop.

Idiophone Wood Engineering Gas Auto part


Next, I stick a piece of blue tape around the edge of the base. Just one or two turns, but I try to stick it to the edge of the base as best I can. I'm going to be pouring epoxy into this and I don't want a leak.

I should note that I've already cleaned the cholla. If there's any material in the middle of a piece, I poke it out with a long screwdriver.

Next is putting in the cholla. In my first two bowls, I stood pieces of cholla on end. This time I'm going to try laying them circumferentially.

Wood Rectangle Staple food Natural material Composite material


If the pieces go a little beyond the tape, that's ok. And if there are gaps, I plan to fill them with the next layer. So now it's time to mix up some epoxy. 50ml of System 3 Fast Hardener, 100ml of System 3 General Purpose Resin, and 22 drops of TransTint Aqua for the first pour. That makes a fairly pale almost sky blue.

Second pour is another 150ml of epoxy (5 oz), this time with about 35 drops of Aqua, and 5 drops of TransTint Lemon Yellow. Definitely green, but I think still thin enough that it'll let light through. I pour this aiming to hit areas that didn't get any epoxy in the first pour (cholla will form dams) and I concentrated on pouring over pieces of cholla that looked dry inside. I also stuck in a few more pieces of cholla (small broken chunks) to fill any small gaps that looked wrong to me.

Wood Metal Plastic wrap Food Electric blue


At this point, there are still a few spots where I can see the dry pine base. But after this epoxy cures overnight, I'll put on another few wraps of tape, building the sides up to 1.5 to 2 inches high, lay in more cholla, and then pour the next two colors of epoxy. I'll probably set the base slightly off-level so that the epoxy pools more on one side. I'm guessing I'll have a total of four pours of two colors of epoxy (they mix a little, but the cholla will segregate the colors a bit, plus the first of two pours starts to harden before I get the second poured), and I'm leaning towards red and violet tints for the next batch.
Interesting design features Dave, like Mr. Wolfe said, waiting to see the results of this manner for the cholla segments being laid out.
How is that cholla wood to work with? It looks to be somewhat brittle, maybe breaks apart easily. I looked up cholla with Google and Wiki says ….. "The cholla wood is made up of a ton of holes and is hollow through the center which provides a natural cover for shrimp to hide" You got an ocean near you?

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Building the blank

Started making the pieces for another cholla bowl this morning, and figured there's been enough interest in what I've done that I should write it up.

The first step is building a base on a faceplate for my lathe. I've been aiming at bowls that are 6-10 inches in diameter, so I generally put a pine 1×6 on the faceplate, and then put a couple pieces of 1×6 across that to get up to the size I want.

Then I cut it round-ish on the bandsaw, and turn it round (and about 10 inches in diameter) on the lathe.

Wood Boats and boating--Equipment and supplies Varnish Tints and shades Circle


I stick blue tape on the joints. That helps keep the epoxy from running through the joints and making a mess in my shop.

Idiophone Wood Engineering Gas Auto part


Next, I stick a piece of blue tape around the edge of the base. Just one or two turns, but I try to stick it to the edge of the base as best I can. I'm going to be pouring epoxy into this and I don't want a leak.

I should note that I've already cleaned the cholla. If there's any material in the middle of a piece, I poke it out with a long screwdriver.

Next is putting in the cholla. In my first two bowls, I stood pieces of cholla on end. This time I'm going to try laying them circumferentially.

Wood Rectangle Staple food Natural material Composite material


If the pieces go a little beyond the tape, that's ok. And if there are gaps, I plan to fill them with the next layer. So now it's time to mix up some epoxy. 50ml of System 3 Fast Hardener, 100ml of System 3 General Purpose Resin, and 22 drops of TransTint Aqua for the first pour. That makes a fairly pale almost sky blue.

Second pour is another 150ml of epoxy (5 oz), this time with about 35 drops of Aqua, and 5 drops of TransTint Lemon Yellow. Definitely green, but I think still thin enough that it'll let light through. I pour this aiming to hit areas that didn't get any epoxy in the first pour (cholla will form dams) and I concentrated on pouring over pieces of cholla that looked dry inside. I also stuck in a few more pieces of cholla (small broken chunks) to fill any small gaps that looked wrong to me.

Wood Metal Plastic wrap Food Electric blue


At this point, there are still a few spots where I can see the dry pine base. But after this epoxy cures overnight, I'll put on another few wraps of tape, building the sides up to 1.5 to 2 inches high, lay in more cholla, and then pour the next two colors of epoxy. I'll probably set the base slightly off-level so that the epoxy pools more on one side. I'm guessing I'll have a total of four pours of two colors of epoxy (they mix a little, but the cholla will segregate the colors a bit, plus the first of two pours starts to harden before I get the second poured), and I'm leaning towards red and violet tints for the next batch.
Thanks, Tom! I'm waiting to see how it comes out, too!

Cholla wood is super-hard. Makes hickory feel easy to work. If it's all sound, it's hard to cut too. There's always some soft spots, but in a 1" diameter branch, if there are no soft spots, I need a boot on it to break it, and its hard to go through with the 2" capacity loppers.

Cholla wood is a little brittle. The "grain" is pretty linear, but if you catch a knot the wrong direction, rather than getting a little tear-out, you'll lose a big chunk.

If you're curious, PM me your address, and I can send you a small flat-rate of pieces. I harvested a bunch more from our yard, and when my neighbor saw me, he offered to give me all he collects from his lot. I took about half of it, but have a pretty good pile I need to hit with the pressure washer to get the spines off. What I send you would be mostly clean, but there's no guarantee I won't miss one spine.

No ocean nearby as far as I can tell.

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Building the blank

Started making the pieces for another cholla bowl this morning, and figured there's been enough interest in what I've done that I should write it up.

The first step is building a base on a faceplate for my lathe. I've been aiming at bowls that are 6-10 inches in diameter, so I generally put a pine 1×6 on the faceplate, and then put a couple pieces of 1×6 across that to get up to the size I want.

Then I cut it round-ish on the bandsaw, and turn it round (and about 10 inches in diameter) on the lathe.

Wood Boats and boating--Equipment and supplies Varnish Tints and shades Circle


I stick blue tape on the joints. That helps keep the epoxy from running through the joints and making a mess in my shop.

Idiophone Wood Engineering Gas Auto part


Next, I stick a piece of blue tape around the edge of the base. Just one or two turns, but I try to stick it to the edge of the base as best I can. I'm going to be pouring epoxy into this and I don't want a leak.

I should note that I've already cleaned the cholla. If there's any material in the middle of a piece, I poke it out with a long screwdriver.

Next is putting in the cholla. In my first two bowls, I stood pieces of cholla on end. This time I'm going to try laying them circumferentially.

Wood Rectangle Staple food Natural material Composite material


If the pieces go a little beyond the tape, that's ok. And if there are gaps, I plan to fill them with the next layer. So now it's time to mix up some epoxy. 50ml of System 3 Fast Hardener, 100ml of System 3 General Purpose Resin, and 22 drops of TransTint Aqua for the first pour. That makes a fairly pale almost sky blue.

Second pour is another 150ml of epoxy (5 oz), this time with about 35 drops of Aqua, and 5 drops of TransTint Lemon Yellow. Definitely green, but I think still thin enough that it'll let light through. I pour this aiming to hit areas that didn't get any epoxy in the first pour (cholla will form dams) and I concentrated on pouring over pieces of cholla that looked dry inside. I also stuck in a few more pieces of cholla (small broken chunks) to fill any small gaps that looked wrong to me.

Wood Metal Plastic wrap Food Electric blue


At this point, there are still a few spots where I can see the dry pine base. But after this epoxy cures overnight, I'll put on another few wraps of tape, building the sides up to 1.5 to 2 inches high, lay in more cholla, and then pour the next two colors of epoxy. I'll probably set the base slightly off-level so that the epoxy pools more on one side. I'm guessing I'll have a total of four pours of two colors of epoxy (they mix a little, but the cholla will segregate the colors a bit, plus the first of two pours starts to harden before I get the second poured), and I'm leaning towards red and violet tints for the next batch.
That is an interesting process Dave. Using the pine as a face plate and starting the base is a great idea. And the epoxy process sounds easy to do. It will be neat to see the finished product.

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Building the blank

Started making the pieces for another cholla bowl this morning, and figured there's been enough interest in what I've done that I should write it up.

The first step is building a base on a faceplate for my lathe. I've been aiming at bowls that are 6-10 inches in diameter, so I generally put a pine 1×6 on the faceplate, and then put a couple pieces of 1×6 across that to get up to the size I want.

Then I cut it round-ish on the bandsaw, and turn it round (and about 10 inches in diameter) on the lathe.

Wood Boats and boating--Equipment and supplies Varnish Tints and shades Circle


I stick blue tape on the joints. That helps keep the epoxy from running through the joints and making a mess in my shop.

Idiophone Wood Engineering Gas Auto part


Next, I stick a piece of blue tape around the edge of the base. Just one or two turns, but I try to stick it to the edge of the base as best I can. I'm going to be pouring epoxy into this and I don't want a leak.

I should note that I've already cleaned the cholla. If there's any material in the middle of a piece, I poke it out with a long screwdriver.

Next is putting in the cholla. In my first two bowls, I stood pieces of cholla on end. This time I'm going to try laying them circumferentially.

Wood Rectangle Staple food Natural material Composite material


If the pieces go a little beyond the tape, that's ok. And if there are gaps, I plan to fill them with the next layer. So now it's time to mix up some epoxy. 50ml of System 3 Fast Hardener, 100ml of System 3 General Purpose Resin, and 22 drops of TransTint Aqua for the first pour. That makes a fairly pale almost sky blue.

Second pour is another 150ml of epoxy (5 oz), this time with about 35 drops of Aqua, and 5 drops of TransTint Lemon Yellow. Definitely green, but I think still thin enough that it'll let light through. I pour this aiming to hit areas that didn't get any epoxy in the first pour (cholla will form dams) and I concentrated on pouring over pieces of cholla that looked dry inside. I also stuck in a few more pieces of cholla (small broken chunks) to fill any small gaps that looked wrong to me.

Wood Metal Plastic wrap Food Electric blue


At this point, there are still a few spots where I can see the dry pine base. But after this epoxy cures overnight, I'll put on another few wraps of tape, building the sides up to 1.5 to 2 inches high, lay in more cholla, and then pour the next two colors of epoxy. I'll probably set the base slightly off-level so that the epoxy pools more on one side. I'm guessing I'll have a total of four pours of two colors of epoxy (they mix a little, but the cholla will segregate the colors a bit, plus the first of two pours starts to harden before I get the second poured), and I'm leaning towards red and violet tints for the next batch.
Thanks, Eric. I was trying to figure a way to make the blank without having to buy a plastic bucket or something, and then I had all that pine left, so….

And yeah, the only real hard part is that I get some bubbles in the epoxy. I try to get as many out as possible by rapping the whole thing on the bench, but that can get sloppy if I'm not careful. But I'll also come back and fill them later if I can.

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Building the blank

Started making the pieces for another cholla bowl this morning, and figured there's been enough interest in what I've done that I should write it up.

The first step is building a base on a faceplate for my lathe. I've been aiming at bowls that are 6-10 inches in diameter, so I generally put a pine 1×6 on the faceplate, and then put a couple pieces of 1×6 across that to get up to the size I want.

Then I cut it round-ish on the bandsaw, and turn it round (and about 10 inches in diameter) on the lathe.

Wood Boats and boating--Equipment and supplies Varnish Tints and shades Circle


I stick blue tape on the joints. That helps keep the epoxy from running through the joints and making a mess in my shop.

Idiophone Wood Engineering Gas Auto part


Next, I stick a piece of blue tape around the edge of the base. Just one or two turns, but I try to stick it to the edge of the base as best I can. I'm going to be pouring epoxy into this and I don't want a leak.

I should note that I've already cleaned the cholla. If there's any material in the middle of a piece, I poke it out with a long screwdriver.

Next is putting in the cholla. In my first two bowls, I stood pieces of cholla on end. This time I'm going to try laying them circumferentially.

Wood Rectangle Staple food Natural material Composite material


If the pieces go a little beyond the tape, that's ok. And if there are gaps, I plan to fill them with the next layer. So now it's time to mix up some epoxy. 50ml of System 3 Fast Hardener, 100ml of System 3 General Purpose Resin, and 22 drops of TransTint Aqua for the first pour. That makes a fairly pale almost sky blue.

Second pour is another 150ml of epoxy (5 oz), this time with about 35 drops of Aqua, and 5 drops of TransTint Lemon Yellow. Definitely green, but I think still thin enough that it'll let light through. I pour this aiming to hit areas that didn't get any epoxy in the first pour (cholla will form dams) and I concentrated on pouring over pieces of cholla that looked dry inside. I also stuck in a few more pieces of cholla (small broken chunks) to fill any small gaps that looked wrong to me.

Wood Metal Plastic wrap Food Electric blue


At this point, there are still a few spots where I can see the dry pine base. But after this epoxy cures overnight, I'll put on another few wraps of tape, building the sides up to 1.5 to 2 inches high, lay in more cholla, and then pour the next two colors of epoxy. I'll probably set the base slightly off-level so that the epoxy pools more on one side. I'm guessing I'll have a total of four pours of two colors of epoxy (they mix a little, but the cholla will segregate the colors a bit, plus the first of two pours starts to harden before I get the second poured), and I'm leaning towards red and violet tints for the next batch.
It will be interested to see the results with cholla laying on their sides. Ill be following Dave.

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Building the blank

Started making the pieces for another cholla bowl this morning, and figured there's been enough interest in what I've done that I should write it up.

The first step is building a base on a faceplate for my lathe. I've been aiming at bowls that are 6-10 inches in diameter, so I generally put a pine 1×6 on the faceplate, and then put a couple pieces of 1×6 across that to get up to the size I want.

Then I cut it round-ish on the bandsaw, and turn it round (and about 10 inches in diameter) on the lathe.

Wood Boats and boating--Equipment and supplies Varnish Tints and shades Circle


I stick blue tape on the joints. That helps keep the epoxy from running through the joints and making a mess in my shop.

Idiophone Wood Engineering Gas Auto part


Next, I stick a piece of blue tape around the edge of the base. Just one or two turns, but I try to stick it to the edge of the base as best I can. I'm going to be pouring epoxy into this and I don't want a leak.

I should note that I've already cleaned the cholla. If there's any material in the middle of a piece, I poke it out with a long screwdriver.

Next is putting in the cholla. In my first two bowls, I stood pieces of cholla on end. This time I'm going to try laying them circumferentially.

Wood Rectangle Staple food Natural material Composite material


If the pieces go a little beyond the tape, that's ok. And if there are gaps, I plan to fill them with the next layer. So now it's time to mix up some epoxy. 50ml of System 3 Fast Hardener, 100ml of System 3 General Purpose Resin, and 22 drops of TransTint Aqua for the first pour. That makes a fairly pale almost sky blue.

Second pour is another 150ml of epoxy (5 oz), this time with about 35 drops of Aqua, and 5 drops of TransTint Lemon Yellow. Definitely green, but I think still thin enough that it'll let light through. I pour this aiming to hit areas that didn't get any epoxy in the first pour (cholla will form dams) and I concentrated on pouring over pieces of cholla that looked dry inside. I also stuck in a few more pieces of cholla (small broken chunks) to fill any small gaps that looked wrong to me.

Wood Metal Plastic wrap Food Electric blue


At this point, there are still a few spots where I can see the dry pine base. But after this epoxy cures overnight, I'll put on another few wraps of tape, building the sides up to 1.5 to 2 inches high, lay in more cholla, and then pour the next two colors of epoxy. I'll probably set the base slightly off-level so that the epoxy pools more on one side. I'm guessing I'll have a total of four pours of two colors of epoxy (they mix a little, but the cholla will segregate the colors a bit, plus the first of two pours starts to harden before I get the second poured), and I'm leaning towards red and violet tints for the next batch.
Thanks, Dave. I'm interested to see what I come up with, too. My brain thinks it might look pretty good, but sometimes my brain, it gets a mite confused.

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Second pair of pours for the blank

Nothing too exciting in this one, but I want to document what I'm doing for my own records, too.

I went back out this evening and wrapped the blue tape an inch and change higher, rotated the blank 180 degrees so I would be pouring epoxy into the end that had almost none in it, and mixed up another batch of epoxy. This time it had 30+ drops of Aqua and I added 5 drops of TransTint Bright Red. That made a reasonable violet, though I maybe had just a touch too much blue.

After pouring that, I added some more pieces of cholla, trying to get them going a different direction than the ones they were on top of, and once I had about half of the blank built up that extra layer, I mixed another batch of epoxy with just the Bright Red. I think I did 8 drops. Then I poured that over the other side of the blank, trying to avoid mixing the two still-liquid pours too much. I put on three our four more wraps of blue tape as insurance against leaks, and moved the blank to the floor, just in case. Ten ounces of liquid epoxy leaking over the bench would be quite a mess. It wouldn't be pleasant on the floor either, but at least it won't ruin many tools if it leaks now.

Rectangle Automotive design Font Wood Electric blue


The pieces of cholla that don't have any epoxy visible on the top of them will be where I concentrate the next couple colors / pours of epoxy. I think before I pour the next one, I'll make a mark around the tape at a final thickness for the blank, and I'll work on stacking cholla and pouring epoxy up to that level so I don't get a wildly unbalanced blank. I think I'm going to aim for something between 2.5 and 3 inches thick.

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Second pair of pours for the blank

Nothing too exciting in this one, but I want to document what I'm doing for my own records, too.

I went back out this evening and wrapped the blue tape an inch and change higher, rotated the blank 180 degrees so I would be pouring epoxy into the end that had almost none in it, and mixed up another batch of epoxy. This time it had 30+ drops of Aqua and I added 5 drops of TransTint Bright Red. That made a reasonable violet, though I maybe had just a touch too much blue.

After pouring that, I added some more pieces of cholla, trying to get them going a different direction than the ones they were on top of, and once I had about half of the blank built up that extra layer, I mixed another batch of epoxy with just the Bright Red. I think I did 8 drops. Then I poured that over the other side of the blank, trying to avoid mixing the two still-liquid pours too much. I put on three our four more wraps of blue tape as insurance against leaks, and moved the blank to the floor, just in case. Ten ounces of liquid epoxy leaking over the bench would be quite a mess. It wouldn't be pleasant on the floor either, but at least it won't ruin many tools if it leaks now.

Rectangle Automotive design Font Wood Electric blue


The pieces of cholla that don't have any epoxy visible on the top of them will be where I concentrate the next couple colors / pours of epoxy. I think before I pour the next one, I'll make a mark around the tape at a final thickness for the blank, and I'll work on stacking cholla and pouring epoxy up to that level so I don't get a wildly unbalanced blank. I think I'm going to aim for something between 2.5 and 3 inches thick.
I don't blame you for setting that on the floor, it would be a real mess on the bench. What about using a large plastic tub to set in while it cures, just in case a leak springs.

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Second pair of pours for the blank

Nothing too exciting in this one, but I want to document what I'm doing for my own records, too.

I went back out this evening and wrapped the blue tape an inch and change higher, rotated the blank 180 degrees so I would be pouring epoxy into the end that had almost none in it, and mixed up another batch of epoxy. This time it had 30+ drops of Aqua and I added 5 drops of TransTint Bright Red. That made a reasonable violet, though I maybe had just a touch too much blue.

After pouring that, I added some more pieces of cholla, trying to get them going a different direction than the ones they were on top of, and once I had about half of the blank built up that extra layer, I mixed another batch of epoxy with just the Bright Red. I think I did 8 drops. Then I poured that over the other side of the blank, trying to avoid mixing the two still-liquid pours too much. I put on three our four more wraps of blue tape as insurance against leaks, and moved the blank to the floor, just in case. Ten ounces of liquid epoxy leaking over the bench would be quite a mess. It wouldn't be pleasant on the floor either, but at least it won't ruin many tools if it leaks now.

Rectangle Automotive design Font Wood Electric blue


The pieces of cholla that don't have any epoxy visible on the top of them will be where I concentrate the next couple colors / pours of epoxy. I think before I pour the next one, I'll make a mark around the tape at a final thickness for the blank, and I'll work on stacking cholla and pouring epoxy up to that level so I don't get a wildly unbalanced blank. I think I'm going to aim for something between 2.5 and 3 inches thick.
Then I would need a clean space big enough for the plastic tub on my bench, Eric. ;-)

I just set it on a piece of cardboard. So far the leaks I've had have been maybe the size of a silver dollar, and have stayed on the cardboard, but I'm always worried the tape will come loose or something and the whole mess will pour out.

If this one holds, I'll have a solid, cured layer across the bottom inch or so, which generally means I'm pretty safe for the rest of the pours. The epoxy glues the tape together if there are any small leaks.

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Second pair of pours for the blank

Nothing too exciting in this one, but I want to document what I'm doing for my own records, too.

I went back out this evening and wrapped the blue tape an inch and change higher, rotated the blank 180 degrees so I would be pouring epoxy into the end that had almost none in it, and mixed up another batch of epoxy. This time it had 30+ drops of Aqua and I added 5 drops of TransTint Bright Red. That made a reasonable violet, though I maybe had just a touch too much blue.

After pouring that, I added some more pieces of cholla, trying to get them going a different direction than the ones they were on top of, and once I had about half of the blank built up that extra layer, I mixed another batch of epoxy with just the Bright Red. I think I did 8 drops. Then I poured that over the other side of the blank, trying to avoid mixing the two still-liquid pours too much. I put on three our four more wraps of blue tape as insurance against leaks, and moved the blank to the floor, just in case. Ten ounces of liquid epoxy leaking over the bench would be quite a mess. It wouldn't be pleasant on the floor either, but at least it won't ruin many tools if it leaks now.

Rectangle Automotive design Font Wood Electric blue


The pieces of cholla that don't have any epoxy visible on the top of them will be where I concentrate the next couple colors / pours of epoxy. I think before I pour the next one, I'll make a mark around the tape at a final thickness for the blank, and I'll work on stacking cholla and pouring epoxy up to that level so I don't get a wildly unbalanced blank. I think I'm going to aim for something between 2.5 and 3 inches thick.
That's good, only the first pour to really worry about, that's good.

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Second pair of pours for the blank

Nothing too exciting in this one, but I want to document what I'm doing for my own records, too.

I went back out this evening and wrapped the blue tape an inch and change higher, rotated the blank 180 degrees so I would be pouring epoxy into the end that had almost none in it, and mixed up another batch of epoxy. This time it had 30+ drops of Aqua and I added 5 drops of TransTint Bright Red. That made a reasonable violet, though I maybe had just a touch too much blue.

After pouring that, I added some more pieces of cholla, trying to get them going a different direction than the ones they were on top of, and once I had about half of the blank built up that extra layer, I mixed another batch of epoxy with just the Bright Red. I think I did 8 drops. Then I poured that over the other side of the blank, trying to avoid mixing the two still-liquid pours too much. I put on three our four more wraps of blue tape as insurance against leaks, and moved the blank to the floor, just in case. Ten ounces of liquid epoxy leaking over the bench would be quite a mess. It wouldn't be pleasant on the floor either, but at least it won't ruin many tools if it leaks now.

Rectangle Automotive design Font Wood Electric blue


The pieces of cholla that don't have any epoxy visible on the top of them will be where I concentrate the next couple colors / pours of epoxy. I think before I pour the next one, I'll make a mark around the tape at a final thickness for the blank, and I'll work on stacking cholla and pouring epoxy up to that level so I don't get a wildly unbalanced blank. I think I'm going to aim for something between 2.5 and 3 inches thick.
very interesting dave ill be following along.may not comment but ill be with you watching.

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Second pair of pours for the blank

Nothing too exciting in this one, but I want to document what I'm doing for my own records, too.

I went back out this evening and wrapped the blue tape an inch and change higher, rotated the blank 180 degrees so I would be pouring epoxy into the end that had almost none in it, and mixed up another batch of epoxy. This time it had 30+ drops of Aqua and I added 5 drops of TransTint Bright Red. That made a reasonable violet, though I maybe had just a touch too much blue.

After pouring that, I added some more pieces of cholla, trying to get them going a different direction than the ones they were on top of, and once I had about half of the blank built up that extra layer, I mixed another batch of epoxy with just the Bright Red. I think I did 8 drops. Then I poured that over the other side of the blank, trying to avoid mixing the two still-liquid pours too much. I put on three our four more wraps of blue tape as insurance against leaks, and moved the blank to the floor, just in case. Ten ounces of liquid epoxy leaking over the bench would be quite a mess. It wouldn't be pleasant on the floor either, but at least it won't ruin many tools if it leaks now.

Rectangle Automotive design Font Wood Electric blue


The pieces of cholla that don't have any epoxy visible on the top of them will be where I concentrate the next couple colors / pours of epoxy. I think before I pour the next one, I'll make a mark around the tape at a final thickness for the blank, and I'll work on stacking cholla and pouring epoxy up to that level so I don't get a wildly unbalanced blank. I think I'm going to aim for something between 2.5 and 3 inches thick.
Yeah, Eric. I usually only do the first pair on the first day, but I had some spare time this evening, so went ahead and did a second pair.

Thanks, Pottz. My guess is I'll end up using about a full quart kit (1.5 quarts of mixed epoxy) for this blank, so it's not a cheap experiment, but the results should be fairly good, based on what the folks who've seen my first two have said.

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Second pair of pours for the blank

Nothing too exciting in this one, but I want to document what I'm doing for my own records, too.

I went back out this evening and wrapped the blue tape an inch and change higher, rotated the blank 180 degrees so I would be pouring epoxy into the end that had almost none in it, and mixed up another batch of epoxy. This time it had 30+ drops of Aqua and I added 5 drops of TransTint Bright Red. That made a reasonable violet, though I maybe had just a touch too much blue.

After pouring that, I added some more pieces of cholla, trying to get them going a different direction than the ones they were on top of, and once I had about half of the blank built up that extra layer, I mixed another batch of epoxy with just the Bright Red. I think I did 8 drops. Then I poured that over the other side of the blank, trying to avoid mixing the two still-liquid pours too much. I put on three our four more wraps of blue tape as insurance against leaks, and moved the blank to the floor, just in case. Ten ounces of liquid epoxy leaking over the bench would be quite a mess. It wouldn't be pleasant on the floor either, but at least it won't ruin many tools if it leaks now.

Rectangle Automotive design Font Wood Electric blue


The pieces of cholla that don't have any epoxy visible on the top of them will be where I concentrate the next couple colors / pours of epoxy. I think before I pour the next one, I'll make a mark around the tape at a final thickness for the blank, and I'll work on stacking cholla and pouring epoxy up to that level so I don't get a wildly unbalanced blank. I think I'm going to aim for something between 2.5 and 3 inches thick.
Yeah, Eric. I usually only do the first pair on the first day, but I had some spare time this evening, so went ahead and did a second pair.

Thanks, Pottz. My guess is I'll end up using about a full quart kit (1.5 quarts of mixed epoxy) for this blank, so it's not a cheap experiment, but the results should be fairly good, based on what the folks who've seen my first two have said.

- Dave Polaschek
hey go for it the last one was pretty damn cool bud.

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Second pair of pours for the blank

Nothing too exciting in this one, but I want to document what I'm doing for my own records, too.

I went back out this evening and wrapped the blue tape an inch and change higher, rotated the blank 180 degrees so I would be pouring epoxy into the end that had almost none in it, and mixed up another batch of epoxy. This time it had 30+ drops of Aqua and I added 5 drops of TransTint Bright Red. That made a reasonable violet, though I maybe had just a touch too much blue.

After pouring that, I added some more pieces of cholla, trying to get them going a different direction than the ones they were on top of, and once I had about half of the blank built up that extra layer, I mixed another batch of epoxy with just the Bright Red. I think I did 8 drops. Then I poured that over the other side of the blank, trying to avoid mixing the two still-liquid pours too much. I put on three our four more wraps of blue tape as insurance against leaks, and moved the blank to the floor, just in case. Ten ounces of liquid epoxy leaking over the bench would be quite a mess. It wouldn't be pleasant on the floor either, but at least it won't ruin many tools if it leaks now.

Rectangle Automotive design Font Wood Electric blue


The pieces of cholla that don't have any epoxy visible on the top of them will be where I concentrate the next couple colors / pours of epoxy. I think before I pour the next one, I'll make a mark around the tape at a final thickness for the blank, and I'll work on stacking cholla and pouring epoxy up to that level so I don't get a wildly unbalanced blank. I think I'm going to aim for something between 2.5 and 3 inches thick.
Dave,
Interesting experiment & the results should be fantastic.
Regarding the concerns of leaks, I've found some of my favorite woodworking stores are the local Dollar Stores. You can find all types of disposable containers in all sorts of shapes. I use some for vinegar soaking of irons, smaller ones for mixing denatured alcohol & TransTint for dying projects, etc. Bet you can find something almost a glove fit for your project of the week.
I also use the dollar store for craft cardboard sheets to make full size drawings & patterns, large foam filled boards also for patterns. When I built a small phone stand for the wife, it had a bottom shelf that needed to fit perfectly between 4 legs so I used the foamboard, trimmed to fit by either cutting away or taping on pieces until it fit just right and bingo, the first wood cut piece fit perfectly.
Anyway, sorry to ramble, looking forward to the results of your current experiment, this stock orientation should yield very interesting appeal.

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Second pair of pours for the blank

Nothing too exciting in this one, but I want to document what I'm doing for my own records, too.

I went back out this evening and wrapped the blue tape an inch and change higher, rotated the blank 180 degrees so I would be pouring epoxy into the end that had almost none in it, and mixed up another batch of epoxy. This time it had 30+ drops of Aqua and I added 5 drops of TransTint Bright Red. That made a reasonable violet, though I maybe had just a touch too much blue.

After pouring that, I added some more pieces of cholla, trying to get them going a different direction than the ones they were on top of, and once I had about half of the blank built up that extra layer, I mixed another batch of epoxy with just the Bright Red. I think I did 8 drops. Then I poured that over the other side of the blank, trying to avoid mixing the two still-liquid pours too much. I put on three our four more wraps of blue tape as insurance against leaks, and moved the blank to the floor, just in case. Ten ounces of liquid epoxy leaking over the bench would be quite a mess. It wouldn't be pleasant on the floor either, but at least it won't ruin many tools if it leaks now.

Rectangle Automotive design Font Wood Electric blue


The pieces of cholla that don't have any epoxy visible on the top of them will be where I concentrate the next couple colors / pours of epoxy. I think before I pour the next one, I'll make a mark around the tape at a final thickness for the blank, and I'll work on stacking cholla and pouring epoxy up to that level so I don't get a wildly unbalanced blank. I think I'm going to aim for something between 2.5 and 3 inches thick.
Hi Dave, I agree with Oldtool. The dollar stores have these thin plastic bowls that would be great for that. and you would never have to worry about leaks and save a ton of tape. I know what it is like to get a leak when right in the middle of a pour. It is like a 3 alarm fire. Along that line, you could buy a big and a small bowl and use the little one for a core in the center so you can save epoxy, too. I have used a big chunk of wood for that once and turned it all away.

Cheers, Jim

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Second pair of pours for the blank

Nothing too exciting in this one, but I want to document what I'm doing for my own records, too.

I went back out this evening and wrapped the blue tape an inch and change higher, rotated the blank 180 degrees so I would be pouring epoxy into the end that had almost none in it, and mixed up another batch of epoxy. This time it had 30+ drops of Aqua and I added 5 drops of TransTint Bright Red. That made a reasonable violet, though I maybe had just a touch too much blue.

After pouring that, I added some more pieces of cholla, trying to get them going a different direction than the ones they were on top of, and once I had about half of the blank built up that extra layer, I mixed another batch of epoxy with just the Bright Red. I think I did 8 drops. Then I poured that over the other side of the blank, trying to avoid mixing the two still-liquid pours too much. I put on three our four more wraps of blue tape as insurance against leaks, and moved the blank to the floor, just in case. Ten ounces of liquid epoxy leaking over the bench would be quite a mess. It wouldn't be pleasant on the floor either, but at least it won't ruin many tools if it leaks now.

Rectangle Automotive design Font Wood Electric blue


The pieces of cholla that don't have any epoxy visible on the top of them will be where I concentrate the next couple colors / pours of epoxy. I think before I pour the next one, I'll make a mark around the tape at a final thickness for the blank, and I'll work on stacking cholla and pouring epoxy up to that level so I don't get a wildly unbalanced blank. I think I'm going to aim for something between 2.5 and 3 inches thick.
Thanks, Pottz.

Thanks, Tom! We're actually heading to the Dollar General near us this morning. Going to buy canned foods for the people who are evacuated from Las Vegas, NM and surrounding areas by the fires. We also stop there regularly for condiments for our local food pantry, which we help stock.

I currently use disposable containers for mixing epoxy. I have 1oz (30ml) medicine measuring cups and 5oz clear graduated cups that I use a lot. They're both eBay specials, since I can almost always find a cheap price there pretty quickly (usually when I wake up in the middle of the night with an idea…).

Thanks, Jim! I'll keep an eye out, but for now, the pine scraps from my bookcases are already paid for. But part of the reason I do pours of 150ml (5 oz) at a time is so any leak gets caught early. It means I'm spending more time mixing epoxy and waiting for it to cure, but it also lets me do different colors and tilt the blank for each pour so that I get the different colored layers stacked up in a (hopefully) interesting way.

I'll definitely keep my eyes open when we're at the dollar store today, but anything I pick up probably wont be used on this blank. I tend to turn them over after cutting them apart, so I've already poured the topmost layers of the bowl, and the pine backer board will be turned off the top of layers. But on the next one, I'm planning on setting up the cholla "stockade style" so if I can find a small bowl for the core, that may enable me to make one that isn't constructed in layers.

Thanks, guys!

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