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Thien Baffle on the fly project

14223 Views 37 Replies 8 Participants Last post by Holbs, May 28, 2014

Holbs

Discussion Starter · Feb 22, 2014

4

day 1

And so.. my personal Thien Baffle challenge begins.
1/2" MDF (i have 2 of these 4×8' sheets..might as well use them). First time ever working on MDF with a power tool. To date… MDF 1, Eric 0 for dust control.
This baffle will sit on top of a 55 gallon plastic drum, be 12" high (to allow more separation and swirling action), and same as many other Thien Baffles out there with a couple differences:

1.) I used a 45 degree chamfer bit on the outer lip to give falling particles no gap space against the 1/16" lexan I'll be installing. This has increased my gap space another 1/2" from the desired 1 1/8" cut out end result (right now, the cut out is 2 1/8" because I'll be laminating 1/8" hardboard on top of the MDF to extend 1" into cutout area). Shall see how this messes anything up.

2.) routed a 1/16" wide 1/8" deep slot at the top of the chamfer for the 1/16" lexan. Made it all the way around and was pulling it backwards to blow out the dust inside the groove and the tip of the bit broke. Darn it.

I am thankful to have picked up a MicroFence edge guide with circle jig at an auction for $20 will everything intact, as this thing is a wonderful perfect router circle jig and with the help of a hand clamp a wonderful circle jig marker as well.

Wood Wheel Tire Gas Flooring

Wood Flooring Floor Gas Machine

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21 - 38 of 38 Posts

WoodES

· #21 · Mar 3, 2014

2

Holbs said:
day 4

Found out, I have a 6" inlet on my Grizzly 3HP dual bag dust collector, not a 7" like I "assumed" I had. Luckily, I have 6" HVAC parts to use up for today. But it did force me to redo hastily the top plate from 7" to 6". I also cut out a 14" with 45 degree bevel for a temporary plate used to fine tune the chimney height, for future cleaning of interior lexan, and if I decide to go forth with the bellmouth it will be easy to install.
Here is the latest picture of my progress. Nothing is sealed, siliconed, caulked, or grey pastey stuff on the HVAC duct work. And yet.. when I fire it up, it works Tossed a handful of planer shavings in and to the eye.. it appears 100% of the shavings made it into the barrel.

Periodically tap it with a broom handle with the dust collector on.

With a little work, the male end can be spread. Worth a try at that price…

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Holbs

Discussion Starter · #22 · Mar 3, 2014

4

Holbs said:
day 4

Found out, I have a 6" inlet on my Grizzly 3HP dual bag dust collector, not a 7" like I "assumed" I had. Luckily, I have 6" HVAC parts to use up for today. But it did force me to redo hastily the top plate from 7" to 6". I also cut out a 14" with 45 degree bevel for a temporary plate used to fine tune the chimney height, for future cleaning of interior lexan, and if I decide to go forth with the bellmouth it will be easy to install.
Here is the latest picture of my progress. Nothing is sealed, siliconed, caulked, or grey pastey stuff on the HVAC duct work. And yet.. when I fire it up, it works Tossed a handful of planer shavings in and to the eye.. it appears 100% of the shavings made it into the barrel.

Bicycle part Cylinder Nickel Auto part Tin

a little HVAC tape, and i should be good to go. and maybe some strap tension to seat it more…suitably.

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WoodES

· #23 · Mar 3, 2014

2

Holbs said:
day 4

Found out, I have a 6" inlet on my Grizzly 3HP dual bag dust collector, not a 7" like I "assumed" I had. Luckily, I have 6" HVAC parts to use up for today. But it did force me to redo hastily the top plate from 7" to 6". I also cut out a 14" with 45 degree bevel for a temporary plate used to fine tune the chimney height, for future cleaning of interior lexan, and if I decide to go forth with the bellmouth it will be easy to install.
Here is the latest picture of my progress. Nothing is sealed, siliconed, caulked, or grey pastey stuff on the HVAC duct work. And yet.. when I fire it up, it works Tossed a handful of planer shavings in and to the eye.. it appears 100% of the shavings made it into the barrel.

Used the bigger hammer solution, I like it….

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Holbs

Discussion Starter · #24 · Mar 3, 2014

2

Holbs said:
day 4

Found out, I have a 6" inlet on my Grizzly 3HP dual bag dust collector, not a 7" like I "assumed" I had. Luckily, I have 6" HVAC parts to use up for today. But it did force me to redo hastily the top plate from 7" to 6". I also cut out a 14" with 45 degree bevel for a temporary plate used to fine tune the chimney height, for future cleaning of interior lexan, and if I decide to go forth with the bellmouth it will be easy to install.
Here is the latest picture of my progress. Nothing is sealed, siliconed, caulked, or grey pastey stuff on the HVAC duct work. And yet.. when I fire it up, it works Tossed a handful of planer shavings in and to the eye.. it appears 100% of the shavings made it into the barrel.

I had sheet metal shears (work related). I cut 4 slits and whalla. I do have to manually crimp the male end. But instead of crimping 360 degrees around the male end, I crimp about 2" here…2" here…2" there, just enough for it to slide in with some elbow grease. Found out, if you crimp a male end alot or at a angle, the male end gets really distorted inside the female end.
I do not think grey goop stuff alone will hold 2 pieces together? I think it's just a sealant, not adhesive? Maybe I will have to get HVAC tape as well. Or a couple pan head sheet metal screws (1/4" length)

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hotncold

· #25 · Mar 3, 2014

2

Holbs said:
day 4

Found out, I have a 6" inlet on my Grizzly 3HP dual bag dust collector, not a 7" like I "assumed" I had. Luckily, I have 6" HVAC parts to use up for today. But it did force me to redo hastily the top plate from 7" to 6". I also cut out a 14" with 45 degree bevel for a temporary plate used to fine tune the chimney height, for future cleaning of interior lexan, and if I decide to go forth with the bellmouth it will be easy to install.
Here is the latest picture of my progress. Nothing is sealed, siliconed, caulked, or grey pastey stuff on the HVAC duct work. And yet.. when I fire it up, it works Tossed a handful of planer shavings in and to the eye.. it appears 100% of the shavings made it into the barrel.

Holbs - This is not hard to correct. I used the same fittings on my system and they are designed to move air "away" from the furnace blower. That is why the crimped ends are on the "downstream" side of the wye fitting. The dust collector sucks the air back toward the blower and that makes the crimped ends on the wrong side of the wye.
Just use a pair of tin snips and cut the "crimp" off of the wye. Then you will need a crimper to "re-crimp" the wye on the large end (the end nearest the dust collector). You will need to do this on all of these fittings and then I would seal the joints with the sealer that you discussed.
Only a couple of inexpensive tools are required for this.
I hope this helps.

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Holbs

Discussion Starter · #26 · Mar 3, 2014

2

Holbs said:
day 4

Found out, I have a 6" inlet on my Grizzly 3HP dual bag dust collector, not a 7" like I "assumed" I had. Luckily, I have 6" HVAC parts to use up for today. But it did force me to redo hastily the top plate from 7" to 6". I also cut out a 14" with 45 degree bevel for a temporary plate used to fine tune the chimney height, for future cleaning of interior lexan, and if I decide to go forth with the bellmouth it will be easy to install.
Here is the latest picture of my progress. Nothing is sealed, siliconed, caulked, or grey pastey stuff on the HVAC duct work. And yet.. when I fire it up, it works Tossed a handful of planer shavings in and to the eye.. it appears 100% of the shavings made it into the barrel.

duh. why didnt i think of that , Hot

I'll do a test cut and see. I'm concerned about the band of raised metal, if i cut off the crimped ends… how well can I crimp that band?

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hotncold

· #27 · Mar 3, 2014

2

Holbs said:
day 4

Found out, I have a 6" inlet on my Grizzly 3HP dual bag dust collector, not a 7" like I "assumed" I had. Luckily, I have 6" HVAC parts to use up for today. But it did force me to redo hastily the top plate from 7" to 6". I also cut out a 14" with 45 degree bevel for a temporary plate used to fine tune the chimney height, for future cleaning of interior lexan, and if I decide to go forth with the bellmouth it will be easy to install.
Here is the latest picture of my progress. Nothing is sealed, siliconed, caulked, or grey pastey stuff on the HVAC duct work. And yet.. when I fire it up, it works Tossed a handful of planer shavings in and to the eye.. it appears 100% of the shavings made it into the barrel.

Holbs - cut that band off. Stay as close as possible but you don't want to crimp through that raised bead. There will still be enough metal left to crimp and connect. Also, on the large end of the wye, you don't need to cut anything…just crimp.
Malco Products makes a 5 blade crimper that is perfect for doing this job. You can find them at any HVAC Wholesaler or on Amazon.

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Holbs

Discussion Starter · #28 · Mar 3, 2014

2

Holbs said:
day 4

Found out, I have a 6" inlet on my Grizzly 3HP dual bag dust collector, not a 7" like I "assumed" I had. Luckily, I have 6" HVAC parts to use up for today. But it did force me to redo hastily the top plate from 7" to 6". I also cut out a 14" with 45 degree bevel for a temporary plate used to fine tune the chimney height, for future cleaning of interior lexan, and if I decide to go forth with the bellmouth it will be easy to install.
Here is the latest picture of my progress. Nothing is sealed, siliconed, caulked, or grey pastey stuff on the HVAC duct work. And yet.. when I fire it up, it works Tossed a handful of planer shavings in and to the eye.. it appears 100% of the shavings made it into the barrel.

i'm confused about "band" and "bead". The existing crimped end is about 1.5" in length with a raised bead at it's base. Then about 1" more til the start of the 45 degree.
I bought a Lennox 5 blade crimper just for this job. I am going to take a short 6" length to work to see if it fits under my ryobi chop saw. I currently cut with a dewalt sawzal and metal blade, but would be more straighter and easier if the chop saw works.

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hotncold

· #29 · Mar 3, 2014

4

Holbs said:
day 4

Found out, I have a 6" inlet on my Grizzly 3HP dual bag dust collector, not a 7" like I "assumed" I had. Luckily, I have 6" HVAC parts to use up for today. But it did force me to redo hastily the top plate from 7" to 6". I also cut out a 14" with 45 degree bevel for a temporary plate used to fine tune the chimney height, for future cleaning of interior lexan, and if I decide to go forth with the bellmouth it will be easy to install.
Here is the latest picture of my progress. Nothing is sealed, siliconed, caulked, or grey pastey stuff on the HVAC duct work. And yet.. when I fire it up, it works Tossed a handful of planer shavings in and to the eye.. it appears 100% of the shavings made it into the barrel.

Sorry Holbs - I may have confused the issue with my last post. When you use a pair of snips to cut off the existing crimps on the wye, there is no need to re-crimp that part (you would be crimping the part you just cut off). As for the "bead" on each stub of the wye, they won't come into play. Just leave them there. The crimped end of the pipe you are using will now go into the wye and can be fastened (some use screws, some use rivets). I just used foil tape and then put two coats of sealer all the way around. After it hardens it doesn't move anymore and everything is air tight.

Gas Auto part Metal Automotive exhaust Pipe

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Holbs

Discussion Starter · #30 · Apr 12, 2014

run test of Thien Baffle

my first video posting.
here is my first test run with 25' of 6" HVAC ducting sealed up, 10 of the 6" blast gates constructed, and first operation of my new Long Ranger III remote starter. The top 6" exit is not yet silicon'ed up til I decide on the need of a bellmouth or not, so just using leaky dust tape for time being. And this also shows why I went for a tophat in the first place when some debris rattles around which could of damaged my dust collector impeller.

FatherHooligan

· #31 · Apr 12, 2014

Holbs said:
run test of Thien Baffle

my first video posting.
here is my first test run with 25' of 6" HVAC ducting sealed up, 10 of the 6" blast gates constructed, and first operation of my new Long Ranger III remote starter. The top 6" exit is not yet silicon'ed up til I decide on the need of a bellmouth or not, so just using leaky dust tape for time being. And this also shows why I went for a tophat in the first place when some debris rattles around which could of damaged my dust collector impeller.

I've sucked up some pine knots through my DC impellars! It gets your attention alright!

scoobydooo9r

· #32 · Apr 12, 2014

Holbs said:
run test of Thien Baffle

my first video posting.
here is my first test run with 25' of 6" HVAC ducting sealed up, 10 of the 6" blast gates constructed, and first operation of my new Long Ranger III remote starter. The top 6" exit is not yet silicon'ed up til I decide on the need of a bellmouth or not, so just using leaky dust tape for time being. And this also shows why I went for a tophat in the first place when some debris rattles around which could of damaged my dust collector impeller.

Well, I'm jealous! It's running great.

Holbs

Discussion Starter · #33 · May 28, 2014

4

Hanging from the ceiling for drum removal

I've seen 1001 ways to simply and ones with complexity, to remove the container underneath a Thein Baffle. I went the utilitarian route. Jack Chain! The baffle sits uptop a 55gallon plastic barrel with 1/4" slack on the jack chain. The barrel itself sits 6" off the floor on a shelf that simply flips downward from a horizontal position to a 35degree downard position and will slide right into a drum dolly (gotta get one first). I also figured out I can line the barrel with a 55gallon trash can bag and place a 4' 2×4 anywhere inside that will hold the plastic down and yet still be easily removable when it comes time to empty. Gotta take pix of that. Simplicity is what I like.

Wood Floor Plumbing fixture Flooring Hardwood

Wood Material property Gas Tints and shades Circle

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doitforfun

· #34 · May 28, 2014

4

Holbs said:
Hanging from the ceiling for drum removal

I've seen 1001 ways to simply and ones with complexity, to remove the container underneath a Thein Baffle. I went the utilitarian route. Jack Chain! The baffle sits uptop a 55gallon plastic barrel with 1/4" slack on the jack chain. The barrel itself sits 6" off the floor on a shelf that simply flips downward from a horizontal position to a 35degree downard position and will slide right into a drum dolly (gotta get one first). I also figured out I can line the barrel with a 55gallon trash can bag and place a 4' 2×4 anywhere inside that will hold the plastic down and yet still be easily removable when it comes time to empty. Gotta take pix of that. Simplicity is what I like.

You're probably not going to have much luck with the bag. It's likely to get sucked up by the vacuum pressure. I tried myself once.

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Holbs

Discussion Starter · #35 · May 28, 2014

4

Holbs said:
Hanging from the ceiling for drum removal

I've seen 1001 ways to simply and ones with complexity, to remove the container underneath a Thein Baffle. I went the utilitarian route. Jack Chain! The baffle sits uptop a 55gallon plastic barrel with 1/4" slack on the jack chain. The barrel itself sits 6" off the floor on a shelf that simply flips downward from a horizontal position to a 35degree downard position and will slide right into a drum dolly (gotta get one first). I also figured out I can line the barrel with a 55gallon trash can bag and place a 4' 2×4 anywhere inside that will hold the plastic down and yet still be easily removable when it comes time to empty. Gotta take pix of that. Simplicity is what I like.

even with a 2×4 4' long to hold the bag down?

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English

· #36 · May 28, 2014

4

Holbs said:
Hanging from the ceiling for drum removal

I've seen 1001 ways to simply and ones with complexity, to remove the container underneath a Thein Baffle. I went the utilitarian route. Jack Chain! The baffle sits uptop a 55gallon plastic barrel with 1/4" slack on the jack chain. The barrel itself sits 6" off the floor on a shelf that simply flips downward from a horizontal position to a 35degree downard position and will slide right into a drum dolly (gotta get one first). I also figured out I can line the barrel with a 55gallon trash can bag and place a 4' 2×4 anywhere inside that will hold the plastic down and yet still be easily removable when it comes time to empty. Gotta take pix of that. Simplicity is what I like.

Nice looking separator!!

You can purchase a plastic bag retainer at Penn State. Or you can take a piece of hog wire fence cut it to fit the circumference and height of your barrel then install your bag and put this piece of fence inside. It will hold the bag open and will hold it down to the bottom. When the bag in full gently lift a shake the retainer, the dust will fall off the fence back into the bag.

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Holbs

Discussion Starter · #37 · May 28, 2014

4

Holbs said:
Hanging from the ceiling for drum removal

I've seen 1001 ways to simply and ones with complexity, to remove the container underneath a Thein Baffle. I went the utilitarian route. Jack Chain! The baffle sits uptop a 55gallon plastic barrel with 1/4" slack on the jack chain. The barrel itself sits 6" off the floor on a shelf that simply flips downward from a horizontal position to a 35degree downard position and will slide right into a drum dolly (gotta get one first). I also figured out I can line the barrel with a 55gallon trash can bag and place a 4' 2×4 anywhere inside that will hold the plastic down and yet still be easily removable when it comes time to empty. Gotta take pix of that. Simplicity is what I like.

ooo… retainer fence. that is a good idea too. i'll see what happens if i just plop down a 4' piece of 2×4 (easily removed when barrel is 75% full). if that somehow fails, side wall fence will be attempt #2. I did see somewhere of a round ring near the top with 4 1"x48" dowels for retaining.

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Holbs

Discussion Starter · #38 · May 28, 2014

14

Holbs said:
Hanging from the ceiling for drum removal

I've seen 1001 ways to simply and ones with complexity, to remove the container underneath a Thein Baffle. I went the utilitarian route. Jack Chain! The baffle sits uptop a 55gallon plastic barrel with 1/4" slack on the jack chain. The barrel itself sits 6" off the floor on a shelf that simply flips downward from a horizontal position to a 35degree downard position and will slide right into a drum dolly (gotta get one first). I also figured out I can line the barrel with a 55gallon trash can bag and place a 4' 2×4 anywhere inside that will hold the plastic down and yet still be easily removable when it comes time to empty. Gotta take pix of that. Simplicity is what I like.

Alot of folks ask me how I did my lined my 55gallon drum with a trash bag and how I empty it. I best toss some pictures up here for future reference:

Kitchen appliance Wood Gas Machine Home appliance

Wood Flooring Gas Hardwood Wood stain

Waste container Waste containment Fixture Bathroom Gas

Waste container Gas Household supply Composite material Cylinder

Drinkware Automotive tire Household supply Adhesive Wood

2×4 sitting vertically inside the barrel to hold the plastic down and to be easily retrieved when time to empty barrel. 3/4" slitted foam pipe insulation to retain bag and air seal when tophat sits upon top of barrel.

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