[Holbs]

day 1

And so.. my personal Thien Baffle challenge begins.
1/2" MDF (i have 2 of these 4×8' sheets..might as well use them). First time ever working on MDF with a power tool. To date… MDF 1, Eric 0 for dust control.
This baffle will sit on top of a 55 gallon plastic drum, be 12" high (to allow more separation and swirling action), and same as many other Thien Baffles out there with a couple differences:

1.) I used a 45 degree chamfer bit on the outer lip to give falling particles no gap space against the 1/16" lexan I'll be installing. This has increased my gap space another 1/2" from the desired 1 1/8" cut out end result (right now, the cut out is 2 1/8" because I'll be laminating 1/8" hardboard on top of the MDF to extend 1" into cutout area). Shall see how this messes anything up.

2.) routed a 1/16" wide 1/8" deep slot at the top of the chamfer for the 1/16" lexan. Made it all the way around and was pulling it backwards to blow out the dust inside the groove and the tip of the bit broke. Darn it.

I am thankful to have picked up a MicroFence edge guide with circle jig at an auction for $20 will everything intact, as this thing is a wonderful perfect router circle jig and with the help of a hand clamp a wonderful circle jig marker as well.

 

[Holbs]

day 1

And so.. my personal Thien Baffle challenge begins.
1/2" MDF (i have 2 of these 4×8' sheets..might as well use them). First time ever working on MDF with a power tool. To date… MDF 1, Eric 0 for dust control.
This baffle will sit on top of a 55 gallon plastic drum, be 12" high (to allow more separation and swirling action), and same as many other Thien Baffles out there with a couple differences:

1.) I used a 45 degree chamfer bit on the outer lip to give falling particles no gap space against the 1/16" lexan I'll be installing. This has increased my gap space another 1/2" from the desired 1 1/8" cut out end result (right now, the cut out is 2 1/8" because I'll be laminating 1/8" hardboard on top of the MDF to extend 1" into cutout area). Shall see how this messes anything up.

2.) routed a 1/16" wide 1/8" deep slot at the top of the chamfer for the 1/16" lexan. Made it all the way around and was pulling it backwards to blow out the dust inside the groove and the tip of the bit broke. Darn it.

I am thankful to have picked up a MicroFence edge guide with circle jig at an auction for $20 will everything intact, as this thing is a wonderful perfect router circle jig and with the help of a hand clamp a wonderful circle jig marker as well.

ES.. I was going to route a groove underneath the baffle to sit astride the top of the barrel by 1/4" as well. However, somewhere along the lines I messed up the diameter measurement. The bottom of the outside lip is somehow magically flush with the lip of the barrel. I can still save this as functional, but leaves little leeway in any weatherstripping errors.
And to end the evening, 2 pictures: baffle sitting on top of barrel, followed by the top plate being spaced with 12" spacers for a dry fit (and somehow, the top of the plate is exactly 4' from floor)

 

[Holbs]

day 2

I decided to change the height of my Thien Baffle to 16". Why? Because the HVAC hoods I have seen so far have a rapid structure change from circular to rectangle, I have a 3HP dust collector (which is unknown if a Thien Baffle can even handle a 3HP), and when you step on a 6" spiral duct you can come to 8" high and 4.5" wide oval which should be good enough. 8" x 2 = 16".
While at the Home Depot, I bought hardboard, and 1/2" pipe insulation. I am unsure if using the pipe insulation will function correctly, but heck… for 97 cent worth a shot. I also built the support structure. This week, I'll be getting the 1/16" lexan and ordering the 7" bellmouth (for my 7" chimney inlet to the DC).

 

[Holbs]

day 2

I decided to change the height of my Thien Baffle to 16". Why? Because the HVAC hoods I have seen so far have a rapid structure change from circular to rectangle, I have a 3HP dust collector (which is unknown if a Thien Baffle can even handle a 3HP), and when you step on a 6" spiral duct you can come to 8" high and 4.5" wide oval which should be good enough. 8" x 2 = 16".
While at the Home Depot, I bought hardboard, and 1/2" pipe insulation. I am unsure if using the pipe insulation will function correctly, but heck… for 97 cent worth a shot. I also built the support structure. This week, I'll be getting the 1/16" lexan and ordering the 7" bellmouth (for my 7" chimney inlet to the DC).

I made a fatal engineering flaw. wonder who can spot it.
had to re-do the baffle plate and 1/8" hardboard. have learned, to cut MDF outside. went as far as i could til sun went down. 95% completed with the redo.

 

[Holbs]

day 3

I purchased the 1/16" lexan poly-carbonate with dimensions of 16" x 60" for $32. Routed a 1/4" groove for the lexan to sit in, top and bottom. Cut all the support pieces and slapped it all together for a dry fit run. Here is the result:

So far… it does not look like I'll win a beauty contest with it, but it will fit my utilitarian funtion. I made alot of mistakes and errors which have given me much needed experience in working on MDF, using Microfence jig, first time really using my bosch 1617 router, etc.
Next will be cutting a 13" diameter thru the top of the baffle for the 7" bellmouth outlet, assembling inlet 6" (well, actually 8" x 4.5") port, and doing a function test. Who knows, might not have to silicone or caulk or whatever to seal up the chamber as everything was a good tight fit.
And notice.. the baffle cut out arc has been changed from my previous error: the opening now starts much later and the end stops right before the inlet.

 

[Holbs]

day 3

I purchased the 1/16" lexan poly-carbonate with dimensions of 16" x 60" for $32. Routed a 1/4" groove for the lexan to sit in, top and bottom. Cut all the support pieces and slapped it all together for a dry fit run. Here is the result:

So far… it does not look like I'll win a beauty contest with it, but it will fit my utilitarian funtion. I made alot of mistakes and errors which have given me much needed experience in working on MDF, using Microfence jig, first time really using my bosch 1617 router, etc.
Next will be cutting a 13" diameter thru the top of the baffle for the 7" bellmouth outlet, assembling inlet 6" (well, actually 8" x 4.5") port, and doing a function test. Who knows, might not have to silicone or caulk or whatever to seal up the chamber as everything was a good tight fit.
And notice.. the baffle cut out arc has been changed from my previous error: the opening now starts much later and the end stops right before the inlet.

ES… with my dry run, I took strong notice to see if there was any flex in the lexan. Right now, the 1/16" lexan sits in a 1/16" groove top and bottom with 6 outer structure supports. It didnt flex at all. With the lexan being bent like it is, I do not think any fasteners or glue or tape is needed. Yet

 

[Holbs]

day 3

I purchased the 1/16" lexan poly-carbonate with dimensions of 16" x 60" for $32. Routed a 1/4" groove for the lexan to sit in, top and bottom. Cut all the support pieces and slapped it all together for a dry fit run. Here is the result:

So far… it does not look like I'll win a beauty contest with it, but it will fit my utilitarian funtion. I made alot of mistakes and errors which have given me much needed experience in working on MDF, using Microfence jig, first time really using my bosch 1617 router, etc.
Next will be cutting a 13" diameter thru the top of the baffle for the 7" bellmouth outlet, assembling inlet 6" (well, actually 8" x 4.5") port, and doing a function test. Who knows, might not have to silicone or caulk or whatever to seal up the chamber as everything was a good tight fit.
And notice.. the baffle cut out arc has been changed from my previous error: the opening now starts much later and the end stops right before the inlet.

ahh..good point that i did not consider. somewhere along the way, i was going to look into what Bert did with a auxiliary emergency valve that opens at a certain pressure. might have to look into that pretty soon.

 

[Holbs]

day 3

I purchased the 1/16" lexan poly-carbonate with dimensions of 16" x 60" for $32. Routed a 1/4" groove for the lexan to sit in, top and bottom. Cut all the support pieces and slapped it all together for a dry fit run. Here is the result:

So far… it does not look like I'll win a beauty contest with it, but it will fit my utilitarian funtion. I made alot of mistakes and errors which have given me much needed experience in working on MDF, using Microfence jig, first time really using my bosch 1617 router, etc.
Next will be cutting a 13" diameter thru the top of the baffle for the 7" bellmouth outlet, assembling inlet 6" (well, actually 8" x 4.5") port, and doing a function test. Who knows, might not have to silicone or caulk or whatever to seal up the chamber as everything was a good tight fit.
And notice.. the baffle cut out arc has been changed from my previous error: the opening now starts much later and the end stops right before the inlet.

good point.
someone else used some screws to afix their lexan to the supports with no down sides.
good thing i made that auxiliary 14" cut out uptop for future things like this.

 

[Holbs]

day 4

Found out, I have a 6" inlet on my Grizzly 3HP dual bag dust collector, not a 7" like I "assumed" I had. Luckily, I have 6" HVAC parts to use up for today. But it did force me to redo hastily the top plate from 7" to 6". I also cut out a 14" with 45 degree bevel for a temporary plate used to fine tune the chimney height, for future cleaning of interior lexan, and if I decide to go forth with the bellmouth it will be easy to install.
Here is the latest picture of my progress. Nothing is sealed, siliconed, caulked, or grey pastey stuff on the HVAC duct work. And yet.. when I fire it up, it works Tossed a handful of planer shavings in and to the eye.. it appears 100% of the shavings made it into the barrel.

 

[Holbs]

day 4

Found out, I have a 6" inlet on my Grizzly 3HP dual bag dust collector, not a 7" like I "assumed" I had. Luckily, I have 6" HVAC parts to use up for today. But it did force me to redo hastily the top plate from 7" to 6". I also cut out a 14" with 45 degree bevel for a temporary plate used to fine tune the chimney height, for future cleaning of interior lexan, and if I decide to go forth with the bellmouth it will be easy to install.
Here is the latest picture of my progress. Nothing is sealed, siliconed, caulked, or grey pastey stuff on the HVAC duct work. And yet.. when I fire it up, it works Tossed a handful of planer shavings in and to the eye.. it appears 100% of the shavings made it into the barrel.

now i'm trying to figure out how to use standard HVAC 6" wye's for dust collection. I now understand the talk about HVAC is flowing forward and dust collection is backwards for connections. Didnt make sense before. But do not want to give up because $3 per 6" x 6" x 6" HVAC wye versus $30 6" x 6" x 6" duct collection wye is a deal breaker. For anyone else who does not understand the difference, I took a picture:

the suction from the dust collector would have to be right, your mains to the left and a branch off the bottom. notice the divots. divots are designed to be the male end connectors as you slide your 6" main with it's female end over the divots. this leaves gaps along the inside of the airstream. this could be bad.
i'm thinking of ways to make it work. maybe, pounds something circular with a bevel to spread out the divot end enough for the female connection. or cut a slit or two to help with expansion. will try tomorrow.

 

[Holbs]

day 4

Found out, I have a 6" inlet on my Grizzly 3HP dual bag dust collector, not a 7" like I "assumed" I had. Luckily, I have 6" HVAC parts to use up for today. But it did force me to redo hastily the top plate from 7" to 6". I also cut out a 14" with 45 degree bevel for a temporary plate used to fine tune the chimney height, for future cleaning of interior lexan, and if I decide to go forth with the bellmouth it will be easy to install.
Here is the latest picture of my progress. Nothing is sealed, siliconed, caulked, or grey pastey stuff on the HVAC duct work. And yet.. when I fire it up, it works Tossed a handful of planer shavings in and to the eye.. it appears 100% of the shavings made it into the barrel.

i'm not worried about leakage… I did buy that grey pasty stuff for sealing seams & joints. I'm concerned about buildup on the inside. The divots could be anywhere from 0" to 1/2" off the female connecting end wall, depending on how out-of-round the 2 connection ends are. This would "snag" airflow (how much? i'm unsure if it even matters) and could snag shavings and build up like…tooth tartar

couplings… hmm… that is the answer so simple! I'll just cut a 4" piece and make my own coupler. I would just have to make my divots more pronounced to slide into the existing machined divots.
thinking naw…wouldnt work. I'll just probably cut 4 slits on the divots and man handle my male connecting end then grey goob the crap out of it.

 

[Holbs]

day 4

Found out, I have a 6" inlet on my Grizzly 3HP dual bag dust collector, not a 7" like I "assumed" I had. Luckily, I have 6" HVAC parts to use up for today. But it did force me to redo hastily the top plate from 7" to 6". I also cut out a 14" with 45 degree bevel for a temporary plate used to fine tune the chimney height, for future cleaning of interior lexan, and if I decide to go forth with the bellmouth it will be easy to install.
Here is the latest picture of my progress. Nothing is sealed, siliconed, caulked, or grey pastey stuff on the HVAC duct work. And yet.. when I fire it up, it works Tossed a handful of planer shavings in and to the eye.. it appears 100% of the shavings made it into the barrel.

a little HVAC tape, and i should be good to go. and maybe some strap tension to seat it more…suitably.

 

[Holbs]

day 4

Found out, I have a 6" inlet on my Grizzly 3HP dual bag dust collector, not a 7" like I "assumed" I had. Luckily, I have 6" HVAC parts to use up for today. But it did force me to redo hastily the top plate from 7" to 6". I also cut out a 14" with 45 degree bevel for a temporary plate used to fine tune the chimney height, for future cleaning of interior lexan, and if I decide to go forth with the bellmouth it will be easy to install.
Here is the latest picture of my progress. Nothing is sealed, siliconed, caulked, or grey pastey stuff on the HVAC duct work. And yet.. when I fire it up, it works Tossed a handful of planer shavings in and to the eye.. it appears 100% of the shavings made it into the barrel.

I had sheet metal shears (work related). I cut 4 slits and whalla. I do have to manually crimp the male end. But instead of crimping 360 degrees around the male end, I crimp about 2" here…2" here…2" there, just enough for it to slide in with some elbow grease. Found out, if you crimp a male end alot or at a angle, the male end gets really distorted inside the female end.
I do not think grey goop stuff alone will hold 2 pieces together? I think it's just a sealant, not adhesive? Maybe I will have to get HVAC tape as well. Or a couple pan head sheet metal screws (1/4" length)

 

[Holbs]

day 4

Found out, I have a 6" inlet on my Grizzly 3HP dual bag dust collector, not a 7" like I "assumed" I had. Luckily, I have 6" HVAC parts to use up for today. But it did force me to redo hastily the top plate from 7" to 6". I also cut out a 14" with 45 degree bevel for a temporary plate used to fine tune the chimney height, for future cleaning of interior lexan, and if I decide to go forth with the bellmouth it will be easy to install.
Here is the latest picture of my progress. Nothing is sealed, siliconed, caulked, or grey pastey stuff on the HVAC duct work. And yet.. when I fire it up, it works Tossed a handful of planer shavings in and to the eye.. it appears 100% of the shavings made it into the barrel.

duh. why didnt i think of that , Hot I'll do a test cut and see. I'm concerned about the band of raised metal, if i cut off the crimped ends… how well can I crimp that band?

 

[Holbs]

day 4

Found out, I have a 6" inlet on my Grizzly 3HP dual bag dust collector, not a 7" like I "assumed" I had. Luckily, I have 6" HVAC parts to use up for today. But it did force me to redo hastily the top plate from 7" to 6". I also cut out a 14" with 45 degree bevel for a temporary plate used to fine tune the chimney height, for future cleaning of interior lexan, and if I decide to go forth with the bellmouth it will be easy to install.
Here is the latest picture of my progress. Nothing is sealed, siliconed, caulked, or grey pastey stuff on the HVAC duct work. And yet.. when I fire it up, it works Tossed a handful of planer shavings in and to the eye.. it appears 100% of the shavings made it into the barrel.

i'm confused about "band" and "bead". The existing crimped end is about 1.5" in length with a raised bead at it's base. Then about 1" more til the start of the 45 degree.
I bought a Lennox 5 blade crimper just for this job. I am going to take a short 6" length to work to see if it fits under my ryobi chop saw. I currently cut with a dewalt sawzal and metal blade, but would be more straighter and easier if the chop saw works.

 

[Holbs]

run test of Thien Baffle

my first video posting.
here is my first test run with 25' of 6" HVAC ducting sealed up, 10 of the 6" blast gates constructed, and first operation of my new Long Ranger III remote starter. The top 6" exit is not yet silicon'ed up til I decide on the need of a bellmouth or not, so just using leaky dust tape for time being. And this also shows why I went for a tophat in the first place when some debris rattles around which could of damaged my dust collector impeller.

 

[Holbs]

Hanging from the ceiling for drum removal

I've seen 1001 ways to simply and ones with complexity, to remove the container underneath a Thein Baffle. I went the utilitarian route. Jack Chain! The baffle sits uptop a 55gallon plastic barrel with 1/4" slack on the jack chain. The barrel itself sits 6" off the floor on a shelf that simply flips downward from a horizontal position to a 35degree downard position and will slide right into a drum dolly (gotta get one first). I also figured out I can line the barrel with a 55gallon trash can bag and place a 4' 2×4 anywhere inside that will hold the plastic down and yet still be easily removable when it comes time to empty. Gotta take pix of that. Simplicity is what I like.

 

[Holbs]

Hanging from the ceiling for drum removal

I've seen 1001 ways to simply and ones with complexity, to remove the container underneath a Thein Baffle. I went the utilitarian route. Jack Chain! The baffle sits uptop a 55gallon plastic barrel with 1/4" slack on the jack chain. The barrel itself sits 6" off the floor on a shelf that simply flips downward from a horizontal position to a 35degree downard position and will slide right into a drum dolly (gotta get one first). I also figured out I can line the barrel with a 55gallon trash can bag and place a 4' 2×4 anywhere inside that will hold the plastic down and yet still be easily removable when it comes time to empty. Gotta take pix of that. Simplicity is what I like.

even with a 2×4 4' long to hold the bag down?

 

[Holbs]

Hanging from the ceiling for drum removal

I've seen 1001 ways to simply and ones with complexity, to remove the container underneath a Thein Baffle. I went the utilitarian route. Jack Chain! The baffle sits uptop a 55gallon plastic barrel with 1/4" slack on the jack chain. The barrel itself sits 6" off the floor on a shelf that simply flips downward from a horizontal position to a 35degree downard position and will slide right into a drum dolly (gotta get one first). I also figured out I can line the barrel with a 55gallon trash can bag and place a 4' 2×4 anywhere inside that will hold the plastic down and yet still be easily removable when it comes time to empty. Gotta take pix of that. Simplicity is what I like.

ooo… retainer fence. that is a good idea too. i'll see what happens if i just plop down a 4' piece of 2×4 (easily removed when barrel is 75% full). if that somehow fails, side wall fence will be attempt #2. I did see somewhere of a round ring near the top with 4 1"x48" dowels for retaining.

 

[Holbs]

Hanging from the ceiling for drum removal

I've seen 1001 ways to simply and ones with complexity, to remove the container underneath a Thein Baffle. I went the utilitarian route. Jack Chain! The baffle sits uptop a 55gallon plastic barrel with 1/4" slack on the jack chain. The barrel itself sits 6" off the floor on a shelf that simply flips downward from a horizontal position to a 35degree downard position and will slide right into a drum dolly (gotta get one first). I also figured out I can line the barrel with a 55gallon trash can bag and place a 4' 2×4 anywhere inside that will hold the plastic down and yet still be easily removable when it comes time to empty. Gotta take pix of that. Simplicity is what I like.

Alot of folks ask me how I did my lined my 55gallon drum with a trash bag and how I empty it. I best toss some pictures up here for future reference:

2×4 sitting vertically inside the barrel to hold the plastic down and to be easily retrieved when time to empty barrel. 3/4" slitted foam pipe insulation to retain bag and air seal when tophat sits upon top of barrel.