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Twenty years ago I bought a new 25 gallon compressor. Without ever reading any instructions to it other the PSI for different tool requirements. One night the compressor comes on and I also hear air. I realized that a hole developed in the bottom of the tank due to moisture buidup and rusted through. Since then with a newer one I empty and purge and turn off after use.
My question is, do you do the same. Did I buy lemon? Or is that a good habit to get into. Now I realize some of you have those big Mando tanks which could take a while to fill up if you do empty and purge on a regular basis.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Actually Jim, the old one only lasted about a year. and that was the twenty years ago I was refering to. I have a five gallon now. So it takes about 2 minutes to fill up. Typically, how long would it take to fill up the larger ones?
 

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Craig,
The recovery time depends on the CFM of the compressor and the size of the tank. Everyone misses the mark by thinking PSI. It is the volume of air at the required pressure that gets the job done.

And with the thin material that is used in today's tanks makes it mandatory that you keep them as dry as possible inside. My tank came off a WWII destroyer. The thing is made from 3/8th thick steel, but I drain it daily when I use it.
 

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When I bought my 60 gal. compressor 4 years ago. I removed the pit cock valve and put a 90 degree elbow in the drain ran a nipple to extent out far enough for a ball cock valve and then another short nipple to that. All I have to do is reach down and open the valve and the pressure does the rest. When its done I just shut the valve. It only takes 10 minutes for it to pressure up when I turn on the compressor. I've done the same to my 15 gal. compressor as well. There's no getting on my knees or any tools needed, so its hassle free to do. I hardly have any moisture in the moisture trap, this way it keeps my air tools dry as well.
 

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I drain the compressor every day I use it…mind you it spends the winter in the unheated shop so any moisture would turn to ice and that probably isn't very good for the tool.
 

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I did exactly what Gregn did to his drain system. When air compresses the moisture is, for lack of a better term, squeezed out of it. Condensation is the enemy and frequent draining is a must. You don't have to drain the entire tank. Just let the pressure push the water off the bottom and close the valve. I also added a self draining dryer just outside the tank. I'm remodeling the air system in my shop right now and adding a second dryer in the finishing room just ahead of the air outlet. The further away from the tank the more opportunity there is for the moisture to collect and be drained off the line. If you have a drop leg on a central system, the end of the leg should have a bleeder valve to let moisture and any contaminates collect and be dispelled there instead of in your tool or finish. I probably just dribbled on way too much. Hope this helps you or someone keep the air dry.
BTKS
 

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Way back when I was taking my driver's ed course to drive 18 wheelers they told us to always drain the air tanks for the air brakes right down as the pressure will hold moisture in the tanks causing rusting (and flaking…bad thing to have flakes of rust in your brake lines!). To this day I will drain the tanks absolutely empty and even rack the tank on a small compressor to drain ALL the moisture out.
 

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I purchased a Thomas oil-less 3/4 hp compressor in 1985 for my finishing work and still using it for small jobs, pumping up tires in the garage or in the yard as it is easy to carry around.

I did as most have suggested, drained the tank daily.
 
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