Other than the obvious shape difference, is there a difference to the volume or tone or playability of a teardrop vs. a normal fiddle?
Other than the obvious shape difference, is there a difference to the volume or tone or playability of a teardrop vs. a normal fiddle?Getting moldy
I've had this one in mind for a while and since the current crisis is giving me some slack time at work, I figured I'd just go for it.
A teardrop fiddle is a violin, but shaped more like a teardrop than an hourglass. I'm making this up as I go, so hang on for the ride!
Tonight I made the mold for the body. I used a scrap of 3/4 inch plywood. The mould is used to hold the end blocks and to shape the thin strips of wood that are called ribs. I cut most of everything else I needed in my shop and will bring the whole thing to work. Providing the current unpleasantness doesn't keep me away from work, where my tools for this live, I should have it done in a few weeks.
The mold, wood for the plates, and a violin neck that I had laying around.
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I created the shape by tracing one of my violins, preserving the width at the waist and tapering it to the neck.
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This looks to be a very interesting build, waiting for the next update.Getting moldy
I've had this one in mind for a while and since the current crisis is giving me some slack time at work, I figured I'd just go for it.
A teardrop fiddle is a violin, but shaped more like a teardrop than an hourglass. I'm making this up as I go, so hang on for the ride!
Tonight I made the mold for the body. I used a scrap of 3/4 inch plywood. The mould is used to hold the end blocks and to shape the thin strips of wood that are called ribs. I cut most of everything else I needed in my shop and will bring the whole thing to work. Providing the current unpleasantness doesn't keep me away from work, where my tools for this live, I should have it done in a few weeks.
The mold, wood for the plates, and a violin neck that I had laying around.
![]()
I created the shape by tracing one of my violins, preserving the width at the waist and tapering it to the neck.
![]()
Getting moldy
I've had this one in mind for a while and since the current crisis is giving me some slack time at work, I figured I'd just go for it.
A teardrop fiddle is a violin, but shaped more like a teardrop than an hourglass. I'm making this up as I go, so hang on for the ride!
Tonight I made the mold for the body. I used a scrap of 3/4 inch plywood. The mould is used to hold the end blocks and to shape the thin strips of wood that are called ribs. I cut most of everything else I needed in my shop and will bring the whole thing to work. Providing the current unpleasantness doesn't keep me away from work, where my tools for this live, I should have it done in a few weeks.
The mold, wood for the plates, and a violin neck that I had laying around.
![]()
I created the shape by tracing one of my violins, preserving the width at the waist and tapering it to the neck.
![]()
Theoretically I think it should be not as loud. Basically everything that led to the shape of a violin was to make it louder. And since mine hasn't the upper two bouts, or shoulders if you will, the player will have to hold it by the neck to place the instrument under the chin. It should also be easier to play the higher notes on the fingerboard because of the lack of those upper bouts.Other than the obvious shape difference, is there a difference to the volume or tone or playability of a teardrop vs. a normal fiddle?
- Dave Polaschek
Getting moldy
I've had this one in mind for a while and since the current crisis is giving me some slack time at work, I figured I'd just go for it.
A teardrop fiddle is a violin, but shaped more like a teardrop than an hourglass. I'm making this up as I go, so hang on for the ride!
Tonight I made the mold for the body. I used a scrap of 3/4 inch plywood. The mould is used to hold the end blocks and to shape the thin strips of wood that are called ribs. I cut most of everything else I needed in my shop and will bring the whole thing to work. Providing the current unpleasantness doesn't keep me away from work, where my tools for this live, I should have it done in a few weeks.
The mold, wood for the plates, and a violin neck that I had laying around.
![]()
I created the shape by tracing one of my violins, preserving the width at the waist and tapering it to the neck.
![]()
Much of the progress will depend on my workload at the shop. There's not a lot going on with the schools closed in our area. Nobody's breaking their instruments.This looks to be a very interesting build, waiting for the next update.
- Oldtool
That's an interesting project to follow!Getting moldy
I've had this one in mind for a while and since the current crisis is giving me some slack time at work, I figured I'd just go for it.
A teardrop fiddle is a violin, but shaped more like a teardrop than an hourglass. I'm making this up as I go, so hang on for the ride!
Tonight I made the mold for the body. I used a scrap of 3/4 inch plywood. The mould is used to hold the end blocks and to shape the thin strips of wood that are called ribs. I cut most of everything else I needed in my shop and will bring the whole thing to work. Providing the current unpleasantness doesn't keep me away from work, where my tools for this live, I should have it done in a few weeks.
The mold, wood for the plates, and a violin neck that I had laying around.
![]()
I created the shape by tracing one of my violins, preserving the width at the waist and tapering it to the neck.
![]()
OK, you've got my curiosity in gear. Do the end blocks become a permanent part of the instrument? Sounds like it, they are temporarily attached to the mold, then glued to the ribs.End blocks
The rough end blocks, made of a chunk of 2×4 are glued to the mould temporarily.
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Then they are carved to curved shape to hold the ribs of the instrument. The ribs will be glued to the end blocks.
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Final sanding makes them ready to hold the ribs.
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End blocks
The rough end blocks, made of a chunk of 2×4 are glued to the mould temporarily.
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Then they are carved to curved shape to hold the ribs of the instrument. The ribs will be glued to the end blocks.
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Final sanding makes them ready to hold the ribs.
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The endblocks stay in the instrument. The neck attaches to one and the tailpiece for the strings to the other. I'm going to put up one post a day if possible.OK, you ve got my curiosity in gear. Do the end blocks become a permanent part of the instrument? Sounds like it, they are temporarily attached to the mold, then glued to the ribs.
I m waiting for the next post.
- Oldtool
Interesting, Dave! Hope you can get it built at home.End blocks
The rough end blocks, made of a chunk of 2×4 are glued to the mould temporarily.
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Then they are carved to curved shape to hold the ribs of the instrument. The ribs will be glued to the end blocks.
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Final sanding makes them ready to hold the ribs.
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Looking more like a fiddle with every post!The Ribs
The ribs are mahogany measuring about 18 inches long x 1 1/4 inches wide x 1mm thick. I bent them using the odd object in the upper right of the photo. A heat gun blows bvery hot air through some plumbing fittings to heat the brass nipple. the moistened rib is held against it and gently bent. I brought 7 ribs to work to bend. I managed to use them all up, but came out with the 2 good ones I needed. They crack if you work too fast.
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Then, using a bunch of small clamps and the holes in the mold, I glued the bent ribs to the end blocks.
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Really like this series! Following with interest!The Plates
I'm making the top and bottom (front and back) plates from mahogany for the back and pine for the front, (it may actually be poplar.)
I cut deep kerfs in the edges and cut the rest by hand.
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Then I glue the edges together.
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There are several reasons to create the wide plate this way, but for me it was
a) I didn't have wood that wide
b) The hope of getting a cool, bookmatched grain pattern.
Are you going to hand plane the assembly, or electric sand?The Plates
I'm making the top and bottom (front and back) plates from mahogany for the back and pine for the front, (it may actually be poplar.)
I cut deep kerfs in the edges and cut the rest by hand.
![]()
Then I glue the edges together.
![]()
![]()
There are several reasons to create the wide plate this way, but for me it was
a) I didn't have wood that wide
b) The hope of getting a cool, bookmatched grain pattern.
The Plates
I'm making the top and bottom (front and back) plates from mahogany for the back and pine for the front, (it may actually be poplar.)
I cut deep kerfs in the edges and cut the rest by hand.
![]()
Then I glue the edges together.
![]()
![]()
There are several reasons to create the wide plate this way, but for me it was
a) I didn't have wood that wide
b) The hope of getting a cool, bookmatched grain pattern.
It's good to have you along for the ride!Really like this series! Following with interest!
- Serradura
The Plates
I'm making the top and bottom (front and back) plates from mahogany for the back and pine for the front, (it may actually be poplar.)
I cut deep kerfs in the edges and cut the rest by hand.
![]()
Then I glue the edges together.
![]()
![]()
There are several reasons to create the wide plate this way, but for me it was
a) I didn't have wood that wide
b) The hope of getting a cool, bookmatched grain pattern.
Because I brought it home, I ran the plates through my thickness planer. If I had stayed at work, I would have tried very hard using just the planes I have there.Are you going to hand plane the assembly, or electric sand?
Resawing has always been a difficult task for me, never works out well, even broke a bandsaw blade once. Hand sawing isn t any better, I usually end up with one usable board out of the two.
Is there enough material there in that glue up for a top and bottom?
- Oldtool
I've seen those special lining clamps, in the most unusual place, the dollar store has them.Linings
Linings are strips of wood that thicken the top and bottom of the ribs to aid in gluing the front and back onto the ribs.
They have to be bent with a heat iron just like the ribs. I also discovered that mahogany is too brittle and dug out what may be oak or poplar to use.
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The linings are clamped for gluing with special lining clamps.
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Today I gained 50 of these special lining clamps. The household lost 50 clothes pins.
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Only one side can be glued at a time.
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Finished.
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How thick were the linings, Dave? Roughly same thickness as the ribs, or are they thicker?Linings
Linings are strips of wood that thicken the top and bottom of the ribs to aid in gluing the front and back onto the ribs.
They have to be bent with a heat iron just like the ribs. I also discovered that mahogany is too brittle and dug out what may be oak or poplar to use.
![]()
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The linings are clamped for gluing with special lining clamps.
![]()
Today I gained 50 of these special lining clamps. The household lost 50 clothes pins.
![]()
Only one side can be glued at a time.
![]()
Finished.
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