Tape Measure accuracy checking and adjusting...

I take a different run at measuring. I use a single source then it really does not matter. I find that if you use multiple tapes etc, you can get bit because no way that are all perfect, it just not realistic.

However, if you use one, then if it's a few thou off on 12" does it really matter!

I also tend to start and measure to the piece. Early in my experience (lack there of), I cut all my pieces to final dimension, then after getting most of the way through, found an oops and it hurt. Its like doors, I make to fit the opening.

Now I get it started and use the piece to tell me the dimensions. If I get a case together and it's a 1/16" diff here or there then I just adjust the piece thats being cut.

I have never had someone come back and tell me, that top was supposed to be 24" and it's 23 15/16". No if it flows it works.

As the one and only Charles Neil says "looks good is good'

My tape measures sit on my cutoff table, for just about any and all measuring I do, I use a folding rule. I hate the rules that have the numbers ordered on the top of the rule, it is hard to find the good ones that have the numbers on the inside of the rule so it will go flat to the table with the ,measurements facing upwards, I will have to do a blog about it. For very accurate stuff I use a metal rule that starts at zero or calipers. Getting very accurate measurements is key to fine joinery and tape measures just can't pull it off. They are good for rough 3rd class cuts though. I worked in construction for years and know how to work a tape as accurate as possible, but it just can't give me the accuracy I need for my joinery. I will try to write up a blog by the end of the week about it. Have a great day all!
On the subject of tapes, spend the bucks and get a solid steel heavy duty one. How many times can you say you pulled it out to 25 feet for woodworking. If you can find a good 12 footer go for it and take care of it and it will work good for you, I like to carry a less expensive one when I am working that I don't worry about junking up and keep my good ones at the cutoff table. "Burning an inch" is a rule off thumb for me on short accurate cuts. Thanks for the thread.

When I buy lumber, I know the bdft I need plus 20% for scrap, so measuring isn't necessary. The lumber is always RWL and normally "Blank" grade. The lumber is stacked on the forks of a forklift which are usually 4' long. If the boards are + - 8' long are laid out onto the forks, a full layer of wood would equal 32 bdft + - a foot or two. If I need 100', 2 1/2 layers will get me near or over what I need. Unless I need one or two specific sized boards, the suppliers employees have have a tape measures, so I use theirs to measure and get what's needed.

At the shop, like Glen, all my measuring from then on is at the 10" mark. I started doing it that way while working in aviation. All dimensions are numbered as "inch stations". Station 0 is the front end of the probe protruding from the nose of the aircraft while in prototype stage. On the planes I worked on, that probe was just over 100 inches. When we were to install something inside the aircraft, the print would state, station 867. You don't want to make any mistakes on a 50 million dollar corporate jet, so using the 10" burn made it a lot easier for me to keep track of what I was doing than burning 1 inch and doing the math to keep things in order.

I do see all the pros on the TV shows mark their cut llines using a dull pencil, and they end up making a mark that looks like it's 1/8" wide. They make their cut, then say, "Purrfect"..... Cracks me up. I was told swipe the pencil once leaving a fine line, not a line that looks like it was done with a brush. .................. Jerry (In Tucson)