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I am looking for a table saw to replace my 60's delta 7.25". I don't want to spend up to $900, but the grizzly 10" is pretty tempting. I'm trying to invest in one that will keep me happy as I radually get better. I've been at it a year now and don't plan on quitting really ever. That being said, the powermatics and saw stops look really nice but they are also bank account breakers. Is there an article somewhere for table saw comparisons or just general comparison information? Any input would be greatly appreciated as I'm making the transition from hobbyist to something more serious now.

Also, if anyone has an opinion on jointers that'd be great. I want to get at least an 8".

- Will
 

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So many good deals out there on used equipment. If you are on a budget, that might be the best way to go.
Good cuts are more about proper saw setup and using the correct blade for the task.
I have a Delta contractors saw that cuts so well, I really have to ask myself if I really need a more expensive cabinet saw. I am sure you could get a really good one for that half of what you are looking to spend. Take the extra coin and get a good miter gauge, blade, and maybe a fence if the one you get will not perform.
 

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When buying used I always try and buy a machine that was bought and almost never used, I never buy a machine from a production shop where the bearing are well worn. Once though, I got a machine where one of the employees said "Iv'e been here 16 years and never seen this machine run!" - thats my band saw, they installed the lower saw guide in upside down and it always jammed the blade, so they used it as a coffee table! I got it cheap,,, ha ha .
 

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When buying used I always try and buy a machine that was bought and almost never used, I never buy a machine from a production shop where the bearing are well worn. Once though, I got a machine where one of the employees said "Iv e been here 16 years and never seen this machine run!" - thats my band saw, they installed the lower saw guide in upside down and it always jammed the blade, so they used it as a coffee table! I got it cheap,,, ha ha .

- exelectrician
Pretty much on a machine that is 20 or more years old, I replace the bearings-motor and arbor.
I also tend to buy 3phase powered equipment, It always goes for less, as most people are not used to dealing with it, though it is easy to deal with these days.

That is what I do also, wanting original paint in at least fair condition. A new paint job tends to hide many faults.
 

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Here's an older article on table saws which compares the different classes of table saws:
http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2007/10/a-table-saw-buying-guide-benchtop-vs-contractor-vs-cabinet-vs-hybrid

A lot of people are very happy with their contractor/hybrid saws, so if a cabinet saw isn't in your budget and won't be for quite some time, go ahead and get a decent contractor saw.

Since you mentioned SawStop and PowerMatic, you're probably already aware that SawStop's cabinet saws are good quality and are priced about the same as competing high-quality cabinet saws. If you decide to go with a cabinet saw and want the safety feature, there's really no reason to go with anything else.

SawStop does make a contractor saw but it isn't as competitively priced, at $1600 for the base model. It's more about how badly you want the safety feature on your contractor saw. If really you want it, you'll come up with the money. Think about it as a one-time insurance premium. If not, you can probably find something at least as capable, sans the blade brake, for several hundred dollars less.
 

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If having a right tilt saw with no riving knife isn't a big deal, you can find a good unisaw or similar for way under 900$. A lot of times with a good fence too. Just keep your eye on craigslist and such.
 
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