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60 tooth blades work well. They are usually smoother cutting than the combo types and make a good all purpose blade. The grind on the teeth makes a lot of difference as well. ATB (alternate top bevel) is good, they can have different angles on the bevel too. Rip blades have Square teeth. Triple Chip have a different grind, teeth are shaped like a kind of flat pointy cone. ATB seems to be the most common. Triple or Unichip are more for laminates and melamine.

The tooth hook angle is important in how aggresive a blade is. Your old 40 tooth has teeth that angle forward
from a line drawn through the center of the blade. There are alot of blades available that reduce chipping by having a negative hook to the teeth but it slows the feed rate you can use and requires more power to run.

You want a good quality blade that doesn't wobble and is well sharpened. Look for ones that have the expansion holes plugged with copper or (plastic now adays) or otherwise take pains to reduce the noise level. That makes a lot of difference too.

One thing that helps with alot of blade issues is a set of stiffeners. They are just large machined and balanced washers about 3/32 thick, that go on either side of the blade and are bigger than the standard flange by a few inches in diameter or so. Really helps steady the blade. I always use them except when I need to raise the blade up all the way, then they stick up above the table a bit.
 

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All blades aren't created equal. The 60T could be a good purchase depending on what blade it is… what did you buy?
 

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What to get depends a lot on what you cut. The Ridgid Titanium R1060C is a pretty nice blade… I'd definitely keep it. It has an ATB grind, a special double side grind that helps give polished edges, and a fairly steep 15° hook which allows it to rip reasonably well for what is normally considered a crosscut blade (up to ~ 6/4" ). It'll be better in ply and crosscuts than a 40T or 50T blade. It's made in Italy by Freud, and is actually very similar to their LU88R010. You may want add a 24T or 30T thin kerf ripper (like the Freud LU87 or Forrest WWII 30T) if you cut very thick materials, but the 60T Ridgid should handle the bulk of cuts.

I would not spend money on a stabilizer unless you've got a runout or vibration problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sounds good - I'll keep it and try it out.

I'm not sure if this warrants another topic, but has anyone tried using the blade guard/splitter on the Ridgid cast iron saw? I cannot get the splitter lined up well enough to be useful. Every time I rip a piece of wood, I have to tap the guard so the splitter goes in the kerf. For long pieces, it usually jams and I have to pull the piece out, take off the splitter/guard and finish the cut without it…

Any thoughts?
 

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If the blade is not parallel to the miter gauge slot (and subsequently not in a straight line with the splitter). You'll need a dial indicator to check that the distance from the miter gauge slot to the front edge of the blade is the same as the distance to the back edge. Your owner's manual should have a procedure for adjusting if necessary.
 
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