Very cool! Wooden Boat magazine offers several models to build that use exactly the same techniques as the full-size versions. I've seen smaller versions of real tenders used as cradles, rockers, coffee tables, etc.Getting Started
Hi Everyone,
I am starting this blog series to document the process of building Sunshine, a 10'6" wooden yacht tender.
![]()
She was originally designed for rowing, but I am building the sailing version. I purchased plans quite a while ago from Duct Trap Woodworking and am getting started by building a scale model. The model will be complete in every way possible so that I can work out all the problems before starting the full size build.
The first step I have taken is to scan the drawings full size to keep as a backup and so that i can print scaled copies to use while working instead of the originals. I am an Engineer so I have access to scanners and plotters that can handle full size plan sheets accurately. Hopefully this will keep the original drawing sheets nice enough to frame and hang on the wall when i'm done.
Build Costs:
- Plans - $45.00
Total Cost = $45
Build Hours:
- Daydreaming - 0 hours
Total Build Hours = 0 hours
Next Steps
- Decide on a scale for the model
- Loft the lines of the hull from the plan measurements
Sunshine Yacht Tender Model
Getting Started
Hi Everyone,
I am starting this blog series to document the process of building Sunshine, a 10'6" wooden yacht tender.
![]()
She was originally designed for rowing, but I am building the sailing version. I purchased plans quite a while ago from Duct Trap Woodworking and am getting started by building a scale model. The model will be complete in every way possible so that I can work out all the problems before starting the full size build.
The first step I have taken is to scan the drawings full size to keep as a backup and so that i can print scaled copies to use while working instead of the originals. I am an Engineer so I have access to scanners and plotters that can handle full size plan sheets accurately. Hopefully this will keep the original drawing sheets nice enough to frame and hang on the wall when i'm done.
Build Costs:
Total Cost = $45
Build Hours:
Total Build Hours = 0 hours
Next Steps
Hi Everyone,
I am starting this blog series to document the process of building Sunshine, a 10'6" wooden yacht tender.
She was originally designed for rowing, but I am building the sailing version. I purchased plans quite a while ago from Duct Trap Woodworking and am getting started by building a scale model. The model will be complete in every way possible so that I can work out all the problems before starting the full size build.
The first step I have taken is to scan the drawings full size to keep as a backup and so that i can print scaled copies to use while working instead of the originals. I am an Engineer so I have access to scanners and plotters that can handle full size plan sheets accurately. Hopefully this will keep the original drawing sheets nice enough to frame and hang on the wall when i'm done.
Build Costs:
- Plans - $45.00
Total Cost = $45
Build Hours:
- Daydreaming - 0 hours
Total Build Hours = 0 hours
Next Steps
- Decide on a scale for the model
- Loft the lines of the hull from the plan measurements
1 - 20 of 38 Posts
5
Lofting Pt. 1
I started the process of lofting, drawing the 3D shape hull from front top and side views, based on the measurements from the plans using a scale of 2" = 1'. I have followed the same process that is required for a full size hull, but my scale will result in a hull 21" long and 8" wide.
To create the full sized enlargement of the lines of the hull, the plans list points along the various curves which are carefully laid out on a grid and connected with long flexible batons to get nice fair (smooth) curves. The plans list the points to the 1/8 of an inch but at my scale that is almost 1/64th of an inch. I created a spreadsheet that does all the conversions and lists the new points in 1/64ths of an inch to help minimize errors.
I am using a 24"x48"x1/4" sheet of MDF as my drawing board and some left over primer which leaves a dull white surface that is great for drawing small pencil lines.
![]()
The first step is to lay out the grid as accurately and squarely as possible. This is the grid for the profile (side view).
![]()
Next I added a grid for the plan view (top down cross section parallel to the water line) which is parallel and offset from the profile grid.
![]()
A height from the profile and a width from the waterline become a point on the body plans (cross sections when viewed from the front) which is ultimately what you use to build the boat. Typically the body plans are drawn on top of each other. I am drawing each of the stations of the hull separately so that i can then cut them out and use them as molds for building the model around instead of trying to copy the lines from the lofting on to molds as a separate process.
![]()
I have only drawin the points and have not yet connected them. The proper workflow is to loft the waterlines first, then the profile, then the body lines.
A fair curve is more important than following the offsets exactly and when I go back to draw in the curves i will go in this order and make any changes to the points I have already drawn on the body line and then connect the dots.
![]()
When all three views agree with each other and all the lines are fair curves you're ready to build!
Build Costs:
Total Cost = $50
Build Hours:
Total Build Hours = 12 hours
Next Steps
I started the process of lofting, drawing the 3D shape hull from front top and side views, based on the measurements from the plans using a scale of 2" = 1'. I have followed the same process that is required for a full size hull, but my scale will result in a hull 21" long and 8" wide.
To create the full sized enlargement of the lines of the hull, the plans list points along the various curves which are carefully laid out on a grid and connected with long flexible batons to get nice fair (smooth) curves. The plans list the points to the 1/8 of an inch but at my scale that is almost 1/64th of an inch. I created a spreadsheet that does all the conversions and lists the new points in 1/64ths of an inch to help minimize errors.
I am using a 24"x48"x1/4" sheet of MDF as my drawing board and some left over primer which leaves a dull white surface that is great for drawing small pencil lines.
The first step is to lay out the grid as accurately and squarely as possible. This is the grid for the profile (side view).
Next I added a grid for the plan view (top down cross section parallel to the water line) which is parallel and offset from the profile grid.
A height from the profile and a width from the waterline become a point on the body plans (cross sections when viewed from the front) which is ultimately what you use to build the boat. Typically the body plans are drawn on top of each other. I am drawing each of the stations of the hull separately so that i can then cut them out and use them as molds for building the model around instead of trying to copy the lines from the lofting on to molds as a separate process.
I have only drawin the points and have not yet connected them. The proper workflow is to loft the waterlines first, then the profile, then the body lines.
A fair curve is more important than following the offsets exactly and when I go back to draw in the curves i will go in this order and make any changes to the points I have already drawn on the body line and then connect the dots.
When all three views agree with each other and all the lines are fair curves you're ready to build!
Build Costs:
- Plans - $45.00
- Lofting- $5.00
Total Cost = $50
Build Hours:
- Lofting - 12 hours
Total Build Hours = 12 hours
Next Steps
- Complete the lofting
It is much easier, but maybe not much fasterLofting Pt. 1
I started the process of lofting, drawing the 3D shape hull from front top and side views, based on the measurements from the plans using a scale of 2" = 1'. I have followed the same process that is required for a full size hull, but my scale will result in a hull 21" long and 8" wide.
To create the full sized enlargement of the lines of the hull, the plans list points along the various curves which are carefully laid out on a grid and connected with long flexible batons to get nice fair (smooth) curves. The plans list the points to the 1/8 of an inch but at my scale that is almost 1/64th of an inch. I created a spreadsheet that does all the conversions and lists the new points in 1/64ths of an inch to help minimize errors.
I am using a 24"x48"x1/4" sheet of MDF as my drawing board and some left over primer which leaves a dull white surface that is great for drawing small pencil lines.
![]()
The first step is to lay out the grid as accurately and squarely as possible. This is the grid for the profile (side view).
![]()
Next I added a grid for the plan view (top down cross section parallel to the water line) which is parallel and offset from the profile grid.
![]()
A height from the profile and a width from the waterline become a point on the body plans (cross sections when viewed from the front) which is ultimately what you use to build the boat. Typically the body plans are drawn on top of each other. I am drawing each of the stations of the hull separately so that i can then cut them out and use them as molds for building the model around instead of trying to copy the lines from the lofting on to molds as a separate process.
![]()
I have only drawin the points and have not yet connected them. The proper workflow is to loft the waterlines first, then the profile, then the body lines.
A fair curve is more important than following the offsets exactly and when I go back to draw in the curves i will go in this order and make any changes to the points I have already drawn on the body line and then connect the dots.
![]()
When all three views agree with each other and all the lines are fair curves you're ready to build!
Build Costs:
- Plans - $45.00
- Lofting- $5.00
Total Cost = $50
Build Hours:
- Lofting - 12 hours
Total Build Hours = 12 hours
Next Steps
- Complete the lofting
I'm looking forward to finishing the lofting and seeing how well the offsets line up at such a small scale. I haven't found a good baton that will take the small curves but keep a fair line.
looks good sofareLofting Pt. 1
I started the process of lofting, drawing the 3D shape hull from front top and side views, based on the measurements from the plans using a scale of 2" = 1'. I have followed the same process that is required for a full size hull, but my scale will result in a hull 21" long and 8" wide.
To create the full sized enlargement of the lines of the hull, the plans list points along the various curves which are carefully laid out on a grid and connected with long flexible batons to get nice fair (smooth) curves. The plans list the points to the 1/8 of an inch but at my scale that is almost 1/64th of an inch. I created a spreadsheet that does all the conversions and lists the new points in 1/64ths of an inch to help minimize errors.
I am using a 24"x48"x1/4" sheet of MDF as my drawing board and some left over primer which leaves a dull white surface that is great for drawing small pencil lines.
![]()
The first step is to lay out the grid as accurately and squarely as possible. This is the grid for the profile (side view).
![]()
Next I added a grid for the plan view (top down cross section parallel to the water line) which is parallel and offset from the profile grid.
![]()
A height from the profile and a width from the waterline become a point on the body plans (cross sections when viewed from the front) which is ultimately what you use to build the boat. Typically the body plans are drawn on top of each other. I am drawing each of the stations of the hull separately so that i can then cut them out and use them as molds for building the model around instead of trying to copy the lines from the lofting on to molds as a separate process.
![]()
I have only drawin the points and have not yet connected them. The proper workflow is to loft the waterlines first, then the profile, then the body lines.
A fair curve is more important than following the offsets exactly and when I go back to draw in the curves i will go in this order and make any changes to the points I have already drawn on the body line and then connect the dots.
![]()
When all three views agree with each other and all the lines are fair curves you're ready to build!
Build Costs:
- Plans - $45.00
- Lofting- $5.00
Total Cost = $50
Build Hours:
- Lofting - 12 hours
Total Build Hours = 12 hours
Next Steps
- Complete the lofting
can´tyou make a
thin balsa stribe
maybe wet
I have used that
a copple of times
whenI build R/c
aroeplanes with luck
Dennis
Dennis
That's very cool. I can see the advantages of building a small version first (mistakes will be less expensive), but wow, that scale must be really tight. When you're finished, you'll have a really cool knick-knack. I'm very tempted to do something similar with plans from wwww.woodenboat.com, but have plenty of other projects already queued.Lofting Pt. 1
I started the process of lofting, drawing the 3D shape hull from front top and side views, based on the measurements from the plans using a scale of 2" = 1'. I have followed the same process that is required for a full size hull, but my scale will result in a hull 21" long and 8" wide.
To create the full sized enlargement of the lines of the hull, the plans list points along the various curves which are carefully laid out on a grid and connected with long flexible batons to get nice fair (smooth) curves. The plans list the points to the 1/8 of an inch but at my scale that is almost 1/64th of an inch. I created a spreadsheet that does all the conversions and lists the new points in 1/64ths of an inch to help minimize errors.
I am using a 24"x48"x1/4" sheet of MDF as my drawing board and some left over primer which leaves a dull white surface that is great for drawing small pencil lines.
![]()
The first step is to lay out the grid as accurately and squarely as possible. This is the grid for the profile (side view).
![]()
Next I added a grid for the plan view (top down cross section parallel to the water line) which is parallel and offset from the profile grid.
![]()
A height from the profile and a width from the waterline become a point on the body plans (cross sections when viewed from the front) which is ultimately what you use to build the boat. Typically the body plans are drawn on top of each other. I am drawing each of the stations of the hull separately so that i can then cut them out and use them as molds for building the model around instead of trying to copy the lines from the lofting on to molds as a separate process.
![]()
I have only drawin the points and have not yet connected them. The proper workflow is to loft the waterlines first, then the profile, then the body lines.
A fair curve is more important than following the offsets exactly and when I go back to draw in the curves i will go in this order and make any changes to the points I have already drawn on the body line and then connect the dots.
![]()
When all three views agree with each other and all the lines are fair curves you're ready to build!
Build Costs:
- Plans - $45.00
- Lofting- $5.00
Total Cost = $50
Build Hours:
- Lofting - 12 hours
Total Build Hours = 12 hours
Next Steps
- Complete the lofting
At least half of why I want to build the model first is just to end up with something pretty to put on my desk. I wanted to go smaller so that if this does become the tender to a larger boat, I could build a model of that too and have them both in the same scale for display purposes (engineers like to think way ahead). Unfortunately any smaller would have made it much more difficult to build with the sort of accuracy that would bring out the problems seen in a full size build which is after all the other half of why i'm doing this.Lofting Pt. 1
I started the process of lofting, drawing the 3D shape hull from front top and side views, based on the measurements from the plans using a scale of 2" = 1'. I have followed the same process that is required for a full size hull, but my scale will result in a hull 21" long and 8" wide.
To create the full sized enlargement of the lines of the hull, the plans list points along the various curves which are carefully laid out on a grid and connected with long flexible batons to get nice fair (smooth) curves. The plans list the points to the 1/8 of an inch but at my scale that is almost 1/64th of an inch. I created a spreadsheet that does all the conversions and lists the new points in 1/64ths of an inch to help minimize errors.
I am using a 24"x48"x1/4" sheet of MDF as my drawing board and some left over primer which leaves a dull white surface that is great for drawing small pencil lines.
![]()
The first step is to lay out the grid as accurately and squarely as possible. This is the grid for the profile (side view).
![]()
Next I added a grid for the plan view (top down cross section parallel to the water line) which is parallel and offset from the profile grid.
![]()
A height from the profile and a width from the waterline become a point on the body plans (cross sections when viewed from the front) which is ultimately what you use to build the boat. Typically the body plans are drawn on top of each other. I am drawing each of the stations of the hull separately so that i can then cut them out and use them as molds for building the model around instead of trying to copy the lines from the lofting on to molds as a separate process.
![]()
I have only drawin the points and have not yet connected them. The proper workflow is to loft the waterlines first, then the profile, then the body lines.
A fair curve is more important than following the offsets exactly and when I go back to draw in the curves i will go in this order and make any changes to the points I have already drawn on the body line and then connect the dots.
![]()
When all three views agree with each other and all the lines are fair curves you're ready to build!
Build Costs:
- Plans - $45.00
- Lofting- $5.00
Total Cost = $50
Build Hours:
- Lofting - 12 hours
Total Build Hours = 12 hours
Next Steps
- Complete the lofting
At 2"=1' scale a 33' main boat would be almost 6 feet long, but maybe i could put it on a large mantel. Something that size I could probably make into a large RC boat or something.
6
Lofting Pt. 2
I bought some 1/4" x 1/16" x 24" basswood strips to use as batons and continued with the lofting. I'ts about like doing the full size lofting with 3/8" planks and crayons, but it's a good start.
I started with the sheer line in both profile and plan view to get a sense of the shape.
![]()
![]()
I also lofted the keel and keelson.
![]()
And then the stem.
![]()
And finally the deadwood.
![]()
The upper waterlines all turned into a bit of a mess because they are so close together. I don't think I need to use the waterlines to redo the offsets on the station molds but I will need the waterlines for picking up the bevels on the transom.
I also found a couple spots that don't look right and i will use the lofted line instead.
![]()
I'll need to figure these out further in the full size build, but for now I have to remember that it's just a model.
Build Costs:
Total Cost = $51.50
Build Hours:
Total Build Hours = 14 hours
Next Steps
I bought some 1/4" x 1/16" x 24" basswood strips to use as batons and continued with the lofting. I'ts about like doing the full size lofting with 3/8" planks and crayons, but it's a good start.
I started with the sheer line in both profile and plan view to get a sense of the shape.
I also lofted the keel and keelson.
And then the stem.
And finally the deadwood.
The upper waterlines all turned into a bit of a mess because they are so close together. I don't think I need to use the waterlines to redo the offsets on the station molds but I will need the waterlines for picking up the bevels on the transom.
I also found a couple spots that don't look right and i will use the lofted line instead.
I'll need to figure these out further in the full size build, but for now I have to remember that it's just a model.
Build Costs:
- Plans - $45.00
- Lofting- $6.50
Total Cost = $51.50
Build Hours:
- Lofting - 14 hours
Total Build Hours = 14 hours
Next Steps
- Complete the lofting
- Cut out the station molds
great blog to learn fromLofting Pt. 2
I bought some 1/4" x 1/16" x 24" basswood strips to use as batons and continued with the lofting. I'ts about like doing the full size lofting with 3/8" planks and crayons, but it's a good start.
I started with the sheer line in both profile and plan view to get a sense of the shape.
![]()
![]()
I also lofted the keel and keelson.
![]()
And then the stem.
![]()
And finally the deadwood.
![]()
The upper waterlines all turned into a bit of a mess because they are so close together. I don't think I need to use the waterlines to redo the offsets on the station molds but I will need the waterlines for picking up the bevels on the transom.
I also found a couple spots that don't look right and i will use the lofted line instead.
![]()
I'll need to figure these out further in the full size build, but for now I have to remember that it's just a model.
Build Costs:
- Plans - $45.00
- Lofting- $6.50
Total Cost = $51.50
Build Hours:
- Lofting - 14 hours
Total Build Hours = 14 hours
Next Steps
- Complete the lofting
- Cut out the station molds
and it looing good sofare
thank´s for sharing
ceep let them coming
with this kind of details
I´m sure everybody will
enjoy it and learn from them
Dennis
4
Lofting Pt. 3
I have pressed on with the lofting and got the stations, stem pieces and skeg pieces lofted. The basswood didn't like taking all the turns and my two 24" pieces are now a handfull of 2-4" inch pieces from all the breaks.
The stations went together alright with some minor changes to fair the curves. they are drawn upside down so that when i make templates they all have a common bottom reference point for laying out the molds.
![]()
I drew out all the stem pieces so that i could make templates.
![]()
the templates are transparency sheets marked with a fine point sharpie (which worked better than I would have thought).
![]()
I also made templates of the stations.
![]()
One step closer to getting the molds made.
Build Costs:
Total Cost = $51.50
Build Hours:
Total Build Hours = 16 hours
Next Steps
I have pressed on with the lofting and got the stations, stem pieces and skeg pieces lofted. The basswood didn't like taking all the turns and my two 24" pieces are now a handfull of 2-4" inch pieces from all the breaks.
The stations went together alright with some minor changes to fair the curves. they are drawn upside down so that when i make templates they all have a common bottom reference point for laying out the molds.
I drew out all the stem pieces so that i could make templates.
the templates are transparency sheets marked with a fine point sharpie (which worked better than I would have thought).
I also made templates of the stations.
One step closer to getting the molds made.
Build Costs:
- Plans - $45.00
- Lofting- $6.50
Total Cost = $51.50
Build Hours:
- Lofting - 16 hours
Total Build Hours = 16 hours
Next Steps
- Complete the lofting
- Transfer patterns and cut station molds
- Build the strongback
Interesting, thanks for the detail.Lofting Pt. 3
I have pressed on with the lofting and got the stations, stem pieces and skeg pieces lofted. The basswood didn't like taking all the turns and my two 24" pieces are now a handfull of 2-4" inch pieces from all the breaks.
The stations went together alright with some minor changes to fair the curves. they are drawn upside down so that when i make templates they all have a common bottom reference point for laying out the molds.
![]()
I drew out all the stem pieces so that i could make templates.
![]()
the templates are transparency sheets marked with a fine point sharpie (which worked better than I would have thought).
![]()
I also made templates of the stations.
![]()
One step closer to getting the molds made.
Build Costs:
- Plans - $45.00
- Lofting- $6.50
Total Cost = $51.50
Build Hours:
- Lofting - 16 hours
Total Build Hours = 16 hours
Next Steps
- Complete the lofting
- Transfer patterns and cut station molds
- Build the strongback
Good detailsLofting Pt. 3
I have pressed on with the lofting and got the stations, stem pieces and skeg pieces lofted. The basswood didn't like taking all the turns and my two 24" pieces are now a handfull of 2-4" inch pieces from all the breaks.
The stations went together alright with some minor changes to fair the curves. they are drawn upside down so that when i make templates they all have a common bottom reference point for laying out the molds.
![]()
I drew out all the stem pieces so that i could make templates.
![]()
the templates are transparency sheets marked with a fine point sharpie (which worked better than I would have thought).
![]()
I also made templates of the stations.
![]()
One step closer to getting the molds made.
Build Costs:
- Plans - $45.00
- Lofting- $6.50
Total Cost = $51.50
Build Hours:
- Lofting - 16 hours
Total Build Hours = 16 hours
Next Steps
- Complete the lofting
- Transfer patterns and cut station molds
- Build the strongback
4
Stongback and Molds Pt. 1
Enough with the lofting, on to working with some wood and actually building something.
I cut two 4"x6" pieces of 1/4" plywood for each station mold and matched up the most square cornors to be the bottom and inside edges of bookmatched pairs.
![]()
I lined up the edges and clamped the sets so that each pair could be temporarily attached together with screws for shaping. I pre-drilled 1/16" holes so the plywood wouldn't split and tried to get the screws along the outside edge so they would hold the two pieces together for cutting and sanding.
![]()
I traced the outline from the templates onto each side rough cut them out with a coping saw.
![]()
I then sanded them down to the finished edge with a bench disk sander. The inside faces which are now identical will be the edge used in shaping the boat. This should make for completely symmetrical molds even if the edge was sanded at an angle.
![]()
Next up opening up the pairs and mounting them to aluminum angle bases and putting it all on the strongback, which in this case is a piece of 3/4" plywood used as a mounting base.
Build Costs:
Total Cost = $70.00
Build Hours:
Total Build Hours = 26 hours
Next Steps
Enough with the lofting, on to working with some wood and actually building something.
I cut two 4"x6" pieces of 1/4" plywood for each station mold and matched up the most square cornors to be the bottom and inside edges of bookmatched pairs.
I lined up the edges and clamped the sets so that each pair could be temporarily attached together with screws for shaping. I pre-drilled 1/16" holes so the plywood wouldn't split and tried to get the screws along the outside edge so they would hold the two pieces together for cutting and sanding.
I traced the outline from the templates onto each side rough cut them out with a coping saw.
I then sanded them down to the finished edge with a bench disk sander. The inside faces which are now identical will be the edge used in shaping the boat. This should make for completely symmetrical molds even if the edge was sanded at an angle.
Next up opening up the pairs and mounting them to aluminum angle bases and putting it all on the strongback, which in this case is a piece of 3/4" plywood used as a mounting base.
Build Costs:
- Plans - $45.00
- Lofting - $6.50
- 24" x 36" x 3/4" plywood - $5.00
- 24" x 36" x 1/4" plywood - $3.00
- Screws - $4.00
- 3' 1"x1" Aluminum Angle - $6.50
Total Cost = $70.00
Build Hours:
- Lofting - 16 hours
- Molds - 10 hours
Total Build Hours = 26 hours
Next Steps
- finish station molds
- mount molds to strongback
Boy this might as well be a foreign language to me. But it's interesting.Stongback and Molds Pt. 1
Enough with the lofting, on to working with some wood and actually building something.
I cut two 4"x6" pieces of 1/4" plywood for each station mold and matched up the most square cornors to be the bottom and inside edges of bookmatched pairs.
![]()
I lined up the edges and clamped the sets so that each pair could be temporarily attached together with screws for shaping. I pre-drilled 1/16" holes so the plywood wouldn't split and tried to get the screws along the outside edge so they would hold the two pieces together for cutting and sanding.
![]()
I traced the outline from the templates onto each side rough cut them out with a coping saw.
![]()
I then sanded them down to the finished edge with a bench disk sander. The inside faces which are now identical will be the edge used in shaping the boat. This should make for completely symmetrical molds even if the edge was sanded at an angle.
![]()
Next up opening up the pairs and mounting them to aluminum angle bases and putting it all on the strongback, which in this case is a piece of 3/4" plywood used as a mounting base.
Build Costs:
- Plans - $45.00
- Lofting - $6.50
- 24" x 36" x 3/4" plywood - $5.00
- 24" x 36" x 1/4" plywood - $3.00
- Screws - $4.00
- 3' 1"x1" Aluminum Angle - $6.50
Total Cost = $70.00
Build Hours:
- Lofting - 16 hours
- Molds - 10 hours
Total Build Hours = 26 hours
Next Steps
- finish station molds
- mount molds to strongback
Boats and boat building pretty much do have their own language! I sometimes forget how little sense it might make without a nautical dictionary. Hopefully the pictures will all make a bit more sense as it comes together.Stongback and Molds Pt. 1
Enough with the lofting, on to working with some wood and actually building something.
I cut two 4"x6" pieces of 1/4" plywood for each station mold and matched up the most square cornors to be the bottom and inside edges of bookmatched pairs.
![]()
I lined up the edges and clamped the sets so that each pair could be temporarily attached together with screws for shaping. I pre-drilled 1/16" holes so the plywood wouldn't split and tried to get the screws along the outside edge so they would hold the two pieces together for cutting and sanding.
![]()
I traced the outline from the templates onto each side rough cut them out with a coping saw.
![]()
I then sanded them down to the finished edge with a bench disk sander. The inside faces which are now identical will be the edge used in shaping the boat. This should make for completely symmetrical molds even if the edge was sanded at an angle.
![]()
Next up opening up the pairs and mounting them to aluminum angle bases and putting it all on the strongback, which in this case is a piece of 3/4" plywood used as a mounting base.
Build Costs:
- Plans - $45.00
- Lofting - $6.50
- 24" x 36" x 3/4" plywood - $5.00
- 24" x 36" x 1/4" plywood - $3.00
- Screws - $4.00
- 3' 1"x1" Aluminum Angle - $6.50
Total Cost = $70.00
Build Hours:
- Lofting - 16 hours
- Molds - 10 hours
Total Build Hours = 26 hours
Next Steps
- finish station molds
- mount molds to strongback
I'll just keep watching and see what I can learn. Thanks for the blog.Stongback and Molds Pt. 1
Enough with the lofting, on to working with some wood and actually building something.
I cut two 4"x6" pieces of 1/4" plywood for each station mold and matched up the most square cornors to be the bottom and inside edges of bookmatched pairs.
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I lined up the edges and clamped the sets so that each pair could be temporarily attached together with screws for shaping. I pre-drilled 1/16" holes so the plywood wouldn't split and tried to get the screws along the outside edge so they would hold the two pieces together for cutting and sanding.
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I traced the outline from the templates onto each side rough cut them out with a coping saw.
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I then sanded them down to the finished edge with a bench disk sander. The inside faces which are now identical will be the edge used in shaping the boat. This should make for completely symmetrical molds even if the edge was sanded at an angle.
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Next up opening up the pairs and mounting them to aluminum angle bases and putting it all on the strongback, which in this case is a piece of 3/4" plywood used as a mounting base.
Build Costs:
- Plans - $45.00
- Lofting - $6.50
- 24" x 36" x 3/4" plywood - $5.00
- 24" x 36" x 1/4" plywood - $3.00
- Screws - $4.00
- 3' 1"x1" Aluminum Angle - $6.50
Total Cost = $70.00
Build Hours:
- Lofting - 16 hours
- Molds - 10 hours
Total Build Hours = 26 hours
Next Steps
- finish station molds
- mount molds to strongback
5
Stongback and Molds Pt. 2
These are from a few weeks back, but there hasn't been much progress recently.
Here are the molds of each station attached to aluminum angle and screwed to the plywood strongback. Finaly something that looks a little like a boat.
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Everything is very carefully aligned so that the hull comes out symetrical and straight.
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it still needs some bracing to bring the stations perpendicular with the plywood base, but it's pretty close (and probably close enough)
you can see that the good edge is facing out towards the curve which means the stations switch directions in the middle of the boat
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Build Costs:
Total Cost = $164.50
Build Hours:
Total Build Hours = 32 hours
Next Steps
These are from a few weeks back, but there hasn't been much progress recently.
Here are the molds of each station attached to aluminum angle and screwed to the plywood strongback. Finaly something that looks a little like a boat.
Everything is very carefully aligned so that the hull comes out symetrical and straight.
it still needs some bracing to bring the stations perpendicular with the plywood base, but it's pretty close (and probably close enough)
you can see that the good edge is facing out towards the curve which means the stations switch directions in the middle of the boat
Build Costs:
- Plans - $45.00
- Lofting Supplies - $6.50
- Strongback and Molds- $18.50
- Soft Maple, Jatoba and Alder - $94.50
Total Cost = $164.50
Build Hours:
- Lofting - 16 hours
- Molds - 12 hours
- Materials Research - 4 hours
Total Build Hours = 32 hours
Next Steps
- cut and fit structural pieces (keel, stem, transom)
- start planking the hull
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