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Moving right alongCorbels, Pegs, and Washers
With the two side assemblies glued together, I can now check the fit of the ladder back.
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Once you get the armrests fit, everything else seems to come pretty easy on this project.
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Here is a look at the beveled through tenons in the armrest.
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A 1/4" dowel secures the mortise and tenon joint. This is a fairly deep hole, and is best drilled with a brad point bit. Test the fit of your dowel stock in a scrap board, as a snug fit is key here. Hopefully you have glued the armrest and tenon liberally (including end-grain) to prevent armrest spring-back.
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Now I set out to make the 4 pegs that secure the backrest.
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I mill a length of 1"x1" stock, and chamfer the corners at the router table. Then I cut the peg handles to a length of 2", and drill a 5/8" hole.
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Then it's just a matter of gluing 5/8" dowel into the hole. Alternately, you could turn the peg and handle from one piece of wood at the lathe. The pivot pegs are longer than the stop pegs. Basically, just size the dowel to fit the depth of your drilled holes.
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With the chamfering bit still setup in the router table, I knock off the corners of a 2"x2" block. Then the hole can be drilled, and the washers can be cut free. These simple wooden washers prevent the backrest assembly from rubbing against the armrests.
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In the last episode we cut the corbels to shape. Now the corbels are glued in place.
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The corbels have a 3/4" wide tongue that fits snugly in a groove. Although a long grain glue joint would have been strong enough, the tongue and groove help to securely register the corbel during glueup. Another reason I like the groove method is that it avoids visible screws that would later need to be plugged.
The rear corbels need one additional step. Cut the top of the corbel to a 7 degree angle to match the fall of the armrest.
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Next I laminate some leg stock for the ottoman.
Next up will be the ottoman build.
Cheers!
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