Joined
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Some seriously nice machining.Ladder Back
This is the Morris Chair I am building.
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Well it's time to make the corbels so I cut a tongue on some 1-1/8" thick stock. The tongue is 3/4" wide to fit snugly in the leg dado.
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Once the tongue is cut, I place the corbel blanks in a jig to trace the curved shape.
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Here the shape of the corbel has been transferred to the blanks.
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I rough cut the corbels at the bandsaw, cutting as close to the line as possible.
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Next I pattern rout the corbels to final shape.
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I avoid routing the end grain section of the corbel, because it can cause chipout. I prefer to sand the narrow end of the corbel to final shape.
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Chamfering the diamond shape on the front legs is pretty easy. Just tilt the table to 15 degrees and sand to your line. Chamfering the rear legs is a bit more challenging because of the angle. To chamfer the back of the rear leg set the table angle to 22 degrees (miter gauge at 90 degrees). To chamfer the front of the rear legs set the table angle to 8 degrees (miter gauge at 90 degrees). To chamfer the sides of the rear legs set the table angle to 15 degrees (miter gauge +7 degrees on one side, and -7 degrees on the other side).
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The settings above work for a chair that has armrests angled to 7 degrees. Adjust accordingly if your plan calls for a different angle.
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Side assembly glueup.
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Side assembly complete.
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Tenons chamfered to final shape at the oscillating belt sander.
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Here you can see how the chamfered diamond follows the angle of the armrest.
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Now I turn my attention to the ladder back assembly. Instead of laminating strips for the curved backslats, I cut them from solid 8/4 stock. This way I can use a dado blade to establish offset tenons before I cut the curved shape. Another option is to use flat back slats with no curve at all.
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I put my oscillating belt sander to work again sanding the slats to my layout line. I start with 36 grit, and work up through 120 grit.
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I sand the parts with a ROS to 150 grit, and fine tune the tenon fit with a sanding block.
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I run the slats through the router table on edge to ease the sharp corners.
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Ladder back glueup.
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I use a sled at the tablesaw to make the angled cut on the armrests.
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Run the armrest through the router table on edge. This way the router bearing won't dive into the holes drilled in your armrest, and bobble the cut.
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Well, that's it for this entry. Next up will be fitting the corbels, and making pegs & washers for the backrest adjustment mechanism
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