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Stability of teak and ipe?

1103 Views 2 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  Unknowncraftsman
I've been asked to bid a bunch of chairs in these woods
using 1/2" x 1.5" x 30" slats… about 18 per chair.

Now I think teak is silly expensive so I'd want to turn
as little into sawdust as possible so I'm thinking I can
rip 30" long x 1.75" 5/4 blanks, then resaw on the band

Now my question is, are these slats going to have
a big reject rate that's going to have me losing my
shirt on the job if they twist or bow more than a
little off straight?

Another alternative, and much more wasteful I think,
is to rip something like 11/16" wide blanks off 8/4
boards…. all to get a bunch of straight 1/2" x 1.5" x 30"
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
I'm not sure about teak, except I do have a friend who farms it in Costa Rica. Rarely is there any stock larger than 6" which is to say all new growth, less stable stock.

Ipe, I have used multiple times, and those pieces which want to move, do. I'm not sure what factors cause that, but perhaps one in fifteen boards want to warp. That's been fairly consistent in my experience. Doing decks and wainscoting, it isn't much of a factor in terms of product loss, or waste.

It is reputed to not glue well, and I have only recently experimented to learn for myself. So if you go with Ipe, I suggest letting it stay in the shop for a while, and don't use the boards that want to curl. Not much help, I know.

It sounds like you have a source for teak, which I believe to be more stable, and glue-able.
I have found teak to be very stable,the down side is the cost.Also the slica and oil can be really bad in some boards and the bandsaw blades need constant cleaning.Other than that is great to work with and smells nice.
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
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