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So where do I get lumber?

1038 Views 19 Replies 13 Participants Last post by LesB, Sep 16, 2021

ScrapWoodAddict

Discussion Starter · Sep 16, 2021 (Edited by Moderator)

Good Morning Jocks!

So, I've always just gone ahead and purchased my lumber at the big'ol orange store. Of course, that means picking through piles and trying to find something that isn't too warped. A lot of times I'm just grabbing common pine boards, since I'm really still just in practice mode or making improvements to my shop. But now it's time to really focus, and I'm not sure where I can go for materials and then what to do with those materials?!

I would like to start building more items that aren't just woodshop improvements. Without any method to the madness, I've randomly decided to focus on making boxes. Why? I don't know. I've made some VERY amateurish ones, but I've seen others post some very beautiful ones with intricate joints and amazing finishes. So I figure its one of those "full spectrum" items that anyone of any skill can do while improving their skills.

Where to Buy
I hear people talking about lumber yards, but I'm not sure what to look for or how to go about purchasing. I mean, usually I go and buy one or two boards, but that can't be very respectful to these guys. So what do I do? How much lumber are people usually buying? Is there a combination of lumber types (perhaps by dimensions?) that I should get? Or does everyone just go and buy based on the project(s) they're working on that week? Is there a certain dollar threshold where it doesn't make sense to go to one of these yards for you?

What to do, once I have it
I know, weird question. I'm sure you're like "start making your project!", but that's not really what I'm talking about…

So, if my project requires lumber that is wider than what I have, is joining the boards just as easy as gluing them together? Or using biscuits or some other method for joining them? And what are those other methods, because I don't have a biscuit joiner.

I've been "milling" via my own methods here, because I don't have a planer or anything, and it always seems like I could continually put off this hobby with the "I would, but I don't have [insert tool name here]" and I don't want to do that. So I've been buying my common board lumber at a big'ol store and using my table saw to "re-mill" the lumber to what I need. I attribute my pickiness in lumber quality to this being a satisfactory system, but I'm sure there is a more appropriate method, which I'd love to hear about.

In any case: yeah, lots of questions and I was even going to make this a blog post. As you can tell, I'm a little confused on this subject matter so any advice is greatly appreciated.

Cheers!

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Unknowncraftsman

· #2 · Sep 16, 2021

What state do you live will determine where to get lumber. Or country
When I need wood for a project I visit one of two places. I do keep a good friendly relationship with the guys there.
The reason should be obvious they tally my boards. But you should learn how to tally your boards too.
It's not that hard. The experience picking boards comes over time unfortunately your probably going to buy some real duds. That's just paying your dues.
Good Luck

TxSurveyor

· #3 · Sep 16, 2021

Where are you located? I would try and find a company that mills their own lumber. I know of one in Texas that sells a variety of rough cut hardwoods that they cut to rough stock and kiln dry. Prices are good.

Buy what you need, or buy extra if you know you will use it and can get a deal on it. Some places, like the one I mentioned have a 50 board foot minimum. Sometimes the more you buy the better price you get, but it gets expensive, so i would just say do that if you know you will use it.

You can glue up boards along the edges after squaring them up. If you need a stronger joint you can use dowels or route some tongue and groove. Dowels would be easiest with limited tools. Be mindful of grain orientation when gluing them up.

SMP

· #4 · Sep 16, 2021

I did a google search for "massachusetts hard wood" and came up with this as one option:
http://www.quabbintimber.com/hardwood-lumber/

I know near me there are "retail" hard wood stores that let you pick through boards and you either buy the whol poece or leave at least 6' length.

Then there are less expensive wholesalers who usually don't let you pick through boards or cut anything, but they will let you buy a board or two.

ScrapWoodAddict

Discussion Starter · #5 · Sep 16, 2021

What state do you live will determine where to get lumber. Or country
When I need wood for a project I visit one of two places. I do keep a good friendly relationship with the guys there.
The reason should be obvious they tally my boards. But you should learn how to tally your boards too.
It's not that hard. The experience picking boards comes over time unfortunately your probably going to buy some real duds. That's just paying your dues.
Good Luck

- Aj2

I live on Cape Cod (MA).

One thing I've always been good at is asking questions and my time on construction sites has leant me the knowledge of knowing what characteristics to look for, but it's all been theory and no practice, you know what I mean?

I'm okay with getting some duds and going through the experience for sure.

ScrapWoodAddict

Discussion Starter · #6 · Sep 16, 2021

Where are you located? I would try and find a company that mills their own lumber. I know of one in Texas that sells a variety of rough cut hardwoods that they cut to rough stock and kiln dry. Prices are good.

Buy what you need, or buy extra if you know you will use it and can get a deal on it. Some places, like the one I mentioned have a 50 board foot minimum. Sometimes the more you buy the better price you get, but it gets expensive, so i would just say do that if you know you will use it.

You can glue up boards along the edges after squaring them up. If you need a stronger joint you can use dowels or route some tongue and groove. Dowels would be easiest with limited tools. Be mindful of grain orientation when gluing them up.

- TxSurveyor

Thanks.

I can imagine it gets pricey.

Boy, my compact router is really going to get a workout, huh? I thought I was saving money by going the "compact" route, but it looks like it may have resulted in my owning two routers instead of just one.

TechTeacher04

· #7 · Sep 16, 2021

Contact Rugby ABP depending on the size of your projects. https://www.rugbyabp.com/locations I have ordered material from them for my school for the past 15+ years.

bndawgs

· #8 · Sep 16, 2021

You might also see if there is a Woodcraft or a Rockler store not too far from you. They sell wood that would be ready for your projects.

Sgoldsmith90

· #9 · Sep 16, 2021

2

If you're up for a little drive, my Father lives up in Maine, a few hours north of Boston and has lumber for sale out of his shop. He buys lumber in about 500BF quantities at a big discount and will sell boards. I worked out of his shop for about a year after I got out of the Navy and can say the quality of lumber is extremely high. I think right now in stock he has cherry, ash, poplar, pine, and Peruvian walnut. All in 4/4 and some in 6/4 and cherry in 8/4.
If you're new into it, need some lessons on rough lumber, milling, and maybe even want some of the lumber dimensioned for a project like boxes, or edge jointed for glue ups, he has at least 40 years experience and a full shop and can help you out (not for free of course, machines eat up a lot of electricity after all). I'm not really sure on many New England lumber places out there for buying a few boards, he has guys come all the way from CT to buy lumber.
Here's a recent pic of his stockpile.

Property Wood Flooring Floor Wall

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ibewjon

· #10 · Sep 16, 2021

Two routers instead of one? No one only has one router. I think I have 6. One stays in the router table, one is compact, one is an old Craftsman 1/4", the other 2 are 1/2.. If I take out a bit, I need to put it in again, so I got the second 1/2". I know this was not about wood, but your future.

therealSteveN

· #11 · Sep 16, 2021

Going away from conventional wisdom, but near a coast, if there are docks, especially where larger boats, ships are coming in, they use very large wood, often from distant lands as dunnage. Other not near the coasts still see truckers, same deal. Often it's a use and get rid of it, as it takes up a lot of room to just store it. Cost could be variable, but it is wood, often prime hardwoods, you just would have to whittle out the parts you needed. Or probably a more sensible approach would be to swap the big pieces for smaller easily worked pieces. Lumber is currency of a sort.

gdaveg

· #12 · Sep 16, 2021 (Edited by Moderator)

Being and engineer that can draw you can use that skill to help your lumber purchasing so that you do not get "way" too much.

Plan your project. Layout on paper the pieces on 3.5', 5.5", 7.25", etc sorta to scale and figure out what the length of lumber is needed for the most appropriate board width.

Find a lumber store or two and go there and find their rules. Rules: "Must leave 4 or 6 feet, must buy the whole board."

Gluing two pieces to make a wider board is a valid approach often times.

Go to town on your project

ScrapWoodAddict

Discussion Starter · #13 · Sep 16, 2021

2

If you re up for a little drive, my Father lives up in Maine, a few hours north of Boston and has lumber for sale out of his shop. He buys lumber in about 500BF quantities at a big discount and will sell boards. I worked out of his shop for about a year after I got out of the Navy and can say the quality of lumber is extremely high. I think right now in stock he has cherry, ash, poplar, pine, and Peruvian walnut. All in 4/4 and some in 6/4 and cherry in 8/4.
If you re new into it, need some lessons on rough lumber, milling, and maybe even want some of the lumber dimensioned for a project like boxes, or edge jointed for glue ups, he has at least 40 years experience and a full shop and can help you out (not for free of course, machines eat up a lot of electricity after all). I m not really sure on many New England lumber places out there for buying a few boards, he has guys come all the way from CT to buy lumber.
Here s a recent pic of his stockpile.

- Sgoldsmith90

Hmmm….a bit of a hike to be honest. Even with that awesome shop.

I have a sister who lives in Bethel, ME, maybe when I visit her I'll check back in and see if it's not too far away!

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ScrapWoodAddict

Discussion Starter · #14 · Sep 16, 2021

Going away from conventional wisdom, but near a coast, if there are docks, especially where larger boats, ships are coming in, they use very large wood, often from distant lands as dunnage. Other not near the coasts still see truckers, same deal. Often it s a use and get rid of it, as it takes up a lot of room to just store it. Cost could be variable, but it is wood, often prime hardwoods, you just would have to whittle out the parts you needed. Or probably a more sensible approach would be to swap the big pieces for smaller easily worked pieces. Lumber is currency of a sort.

- therealSteveN

Not bad…I might actually be able to obtain this type of lumber since I am on the coast and frequently visit marinas via my sailboat.

jonah

· #15 · Sep 16, 2021

I don't know of anywhere on the south shore to get hardwood lumber, but Boulter Plywood in Somerville is fantastic for any kind of plywood, and Andersen McQuaid in Cambridge is good (though pricey) for hardwood.

I'm trying to remember the place I used to go out in the suburbs, but its escaping me at the moment.

If nobody here can come up with any S Shore sources, I'd start by google maps searching for "hardwood lumber". Eliminate any places that are flooring only, and start calling. Ask them if they deal with retail customers (not just trades pros). That's important. You want to be able to go by and purchase a single board if that's all you need for a project. Not every place is into that sort of thing, but lots are.

Given your lack of a planer, you're going to want a place that can plane boards down for you. There'll be a small fee for that.

Pricing will always be done in board feet. If anyone tries to price hardwood by the linear foot the way home depot does, walk away. Or run.

ScrapWoodAddict

Discussion Starter · #16 · Sep 16, 2021

Two routers instead of one? No one only has one router. I think I have 6. One stays in the router table, one is compact, one is an old Craftsman 1/4", the other 2 are 1/2.. If I take out a bit, I need to put it in again, so I got the second 1/2". I know this was not about wood, but your future.

- ibewjon

Ha, I have no doubts that I will have an overabundance of tools. At the moment I'm trying to collect one of each so I can at least get done what I set out to do, but I will certainly think "that's not bad, but man do I need [insert tool here] to get it to be better.

I also have a sailboat and can only manage having one secret credit card. Any more than that would be the demise of my marriage.

Oughtsix

· #17 · Sep 16, 2021 (Edited by Moderator)

Saying that you won't go to the lumber yard because it is disrespectful to only pick up one or two boards is like saying that it is disrespectful to go to the grocery store to only buy a carton of milk. They are there to sell wood! Whether it be just a board or two or a whole pallet of wood. Buying wood is how they make money and buying a board or two keeps them in business which is beneficial to ME!

I always get better wood for cheaper at the lumber yard. The big box stores have the lowest quality at the highest price in my experience.

The only reason to use biscuits, dowels, dominos, etc. for a panel glue up is to keep the boards aligned while you are gluing. I use dowels because I have a horizontal boring machine making dowels quick and easy. There is plenty of strength in edge glue joints so extras aren't needed for strength. I think you will find that keeping the boards flat and level during a glue up is a bit of a task for which many special clamps and joining aids have been created.

90 degree joints or butt joints etc. is where dowels, biscuits, dominos, mortice and tenons, pocket holes etc. are good for adding strength to the joint. Basically joints where the glue surface area is relatively small.

Joining boards requires straight square edges on the boards to eliminate gaps in the joint whether you use joining aids or not. A table saw will certainly do and is where a lot of people start for preparing edges to be joined but eventually a jointer is a very nice addition for prepping straight smooth edges. I used a $100 Harbor Freight 6" jointer for 25+ years before inheriting my fathers Jet 8" jointer. For edge joining the HF 6" always did an excellent job for me which made it hard to justify paying to upgrade to a larger jointer.

P.S. The second project in high school wood shop was a box with hand cut finger joints. No fancy jigs or machines needed there, just a cheap coping saw. Most things can be built with relatively simple hand tools. The fancy machine tools just make most operations faster. Learning to build things the slow way with hand tools is an excellent way to build up your skills! I.e. Hand jointing planes were used to prep glue edges before there were any power tools to make the task faster.

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jonah

· #18 · Sep 16, 2021

Contact Rugby ABP depending on the size of your projects. https://www.rugbyabp.com/locations I have ordered material from them for my school for the past 15+ years.

- TechTeacher04

Downes and Reader in Stoughton is the place I was thinking of! Try them - they're very good. Not the cheapest, but a solid place. I don't know if they will S3S (surface three sides) wood for you, but that's what you want if you lack a planer.

ScrapWoodAddict

Discussion Starter · #19 · Sep 16, 2021

Being and engineer that can draw you can use that skill to help your lumber purchasing so that you do not get "way" too much.

Plan your project. Layout on paper the pieces on 3.5 , 5.5", 7.25", etc sorta to scale and figure out what the length of lumber is needed for the most appropriate board width.

Find a lumber store or two and go there and find their rules. Rules: "Must leave 4 or 6 feet, must buy the whole board."

Gluing two pieces to make a wider board is a valid approach often times.

Go to town on your project

- gdaveg

So, by the project that is usually how I do things: CAD it up, organize my data into a BOM, and go buy what I need.

But what I'd really like it to stock up on some lumber that I can use when I'm just in my shop, kind of tinkering with small projects (like boxes!). And in that process, I'm actually trying to get away from the digital planning stage of my workflow. I spend a lot of time in front of a screen and am using woodworking to get away from that. I have started to simply sketch plans out with rough dimensions, and then adjust based on the piece of wood I'm working with and the cuts I'm making. Less screens, more sawdust.

LesB

· #20 · Sep 16, 2021

A quick internet search shows lots of "hard wood" merchants in Mass. They would be a better place to get your wood than the big box store where quality is sometimes questionable and variety limited or a place like Rockler or Woodcraft who have choice selected wood that is good but expensive. The latter is good if you don't have a planer or other tools to process the boards. It is always a good idea to let new lumber acclimatize to your location before starting work. In most cases a couple of days on 3/4" thick wood is sufficient a week would be better. There also can be problems where the wood project is built in a cool damp garage and will end up in a dry warm house; moisture content is a big part of wood movement.

Gluing boards together to get the width works quite well. Biscuits are mainly used to keep the boards aligned during glue up and only add minimal additional strength to the joint. Dowels work but can be hard to keep aligned. Other methods using joints cut with a router will add strength by expanding the glueing surface but are not normally needed. There are other technicalities involved in glueing boards, such as boards where the end grain pattern of the boards needs to be alternated if several are glued together to counteract any tendency to curl or cup.

Yes, you will eventually need a bigger router. Compact models are for light work and you will quickly damage or wear it out doing more than it is made to do.

Finally, without a planer you can often find a cabinet shop that wll be willing to plane the wood for you…for a price of course.

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