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I would. I am not good enough to use that grind but some of the pros can.
Most tools have to be reground to what you want. I did not remember my Hurricanes being that straight but they may have been. You would have to grind away a lot of steel length to get back to it if it came swept back. You can grind those wings backs and still not lose any steel length.
My wings are not identical but about the same as John Lucas shows in his video. Cuts are made off the tip removing only 1/8" - 1/4" width shaving. If you get too much wing into it you can also get a bad catch.
 

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I don't see anything wrong with the grind. Are you using it like you got it or did you sharpen it? New from the factory isn't ready to use at the lathe. Keep the angle and shape and give it a good sharpening. Keep the rest close to the work and ride the bevel. And with the bowl gouge you are cutting from the rim to the center, right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Up Date:
Well I did regrind my gouge and I think it came out just like the vids I watched.
So I fire up the lathe @ 500rpm- the lowest I can go- and BAMMM!
Bad catch, tore the dang thing right off the chuck.
Pucker factor? you bet.LOL

I think I need some lesson.

I put up some pic tomorrow.

Rick
 

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Try not to cut with the wings/sides of the gouge on the inside of the bowl, focus on the bottom of the gouge and get good bevel support beneath each cut. It's easy to get a catch otherwise.
 

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Here are links to a couple of videos on catches.
The one by Brenden is two parts.. only the 1st part is linked but you can find the other (probably at the side).
The second is by Richard Raffan and the bowl gouge starts about half way through.


As Allen said, you should be cutting just off the tip, maybe 1/8" wide. I sometimes cut up to 1/4" but after several years I would not even try like some of the pro up to 1/2". Even with the pros shown here many of the shavings are not much wider than a pencil lead.
Too much wing in the wood is certain to get a catch.
You can use the wing but in a scraping or sheer scraping mode on the exterior but not making a slicing cut.

Looks like you are making good progress.
 

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You need to have another gouge ground in the "bottom feeder" configuration. The curve at the bottom requires it. That I'm pretty sure is where your catch occurred? Do that and you'll find it both speeds up your turning and improves the bottom area without catching.
 

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If unfamiliar with the term, here is an article by Dale Nish (1 page) on why you may have different bowl gouge grinds (the steepness of the angle, not necessarily swept back or not).
The figure 4 shows what Les is referring to by a "bottom feeder" and why it may be needed.

http://www.woodturningdesign.com/askdale/14/14.shtml

As steep as the sides of the bowl appear to be, I would go after the transition area lightly with a sharp scraper. But that's just mho.
 

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The first two pic look really nice. It may be the pic angle but in the last two the point appears very blunt. f you look back at the first little video early on (John Lucas) you can see what I mean. They may be more rounded than the pic looks like. You can leave as it and on future sharpenings just remove a tiny bit more toward the tip each time. It seems to work for you as is.

On the other hand your tenon seems to have 2-3 serious problems IMHO. If interested start a new thread so this one does not get so far off the original topic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The first two pic look really nice. It may be the pic angle but in the last two the point appears very blunt. f you look back at the first little video early on (John Lucas) you can see what I mean. They may be more rounded than the pic looks like. You can leave as it and on future sharpenings just remove a tiny bit more toward the tip each time. It seems to work for you as is.

On the other hand your tenon seems to have 2-3 serious problems IMHO. If interested start a new thread so this one does not get so far off the original topic.

- LeeMills
Lee,
Please tell me the problems you see,I want to know.
How do I move all of this stuff to a new thread?
Thanks again,
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Is that where the catch happened on the bottom of the bowl? Looks like one of those spiral rings spins outward. The new grind looks good.

- kwolfe
kwolfe,
You got a good eye, that's just happen.
I think I'm doing things bassackwoords.
 

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On the other hand your tenon seems to have 2-3 serious problems IMHO. - LeeMills

Lee,
Please tell me the problems you see,I want to know.
- Rick Bailey
Just from the pic. The area for the top of the jaws to seat against is not flat. This is a very important detail and may cause the most dismounts. It appears the jaws are gripping at the corners rather than gripping all the way around. It hard to tell from the pic how long the tenon is but it may be bottoming out before the top of the jaws seat. I do not know what your brand of chuck and type of jaws are. With most Nova you do not cut a dovetail on a tenon, to do so can make the hold weaker.

Here is a link to some videos by Stuart Batty. There are three on chucks, tenons, and recesses. They are very detailed but they are also very complete. There are 34 videos total over three pages but you should be able to find the appropriate three easily.
http://vimeo.com/woodturning/videos/sort:alphabetical/format:thumbnail
 

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Is that where the catch happened on the bottom of the bowl? Looks like one of those spiral rings spins outward. The new grind looks good.

- kwolfe

kwolfe,
You got a good eye, that s just happen.
I think I m doing things bassackwoords.

- Rick Bailey
The only reason I saw that is because it's happened to me to. I have been turning for about a month now. I love it. The one thing I am now really aware of is how centrifugal force really wants to through that gouge out in places. To combat this, I typically try and start which the cutting edge of the gouge straight up and down trying to rub the bevel. Then I slowly engage the cutting edge with a firm grip on the tool until I feel what it WANTs to do.
 

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On the other hand your tenon seems to have 2-3 serious problems IMHO. - LeeMills

Lee,
Please tell me the problems you see,I want to know.
- Rick Bailey

Just from the pic. The area for the top of the jaws to seat against is not flat. This is a very important detail and may cause the most dismounts. It appears the jaws are gripping at the corners rather than gripping all the way around. It hard to tell from the pic how long the tenon is but it may be bottoming out before the top of the jaws seat. I do not know what your brand of chuck and type of jaws are. With most Nova you do not cut a dovetail on a tenon, to do so can make the hold weaker.

Here is a link to some videos by Stuart Batty. There are three on chucks, tenons, and recesses. They are very detailed but they are also very complete. There are 34 videos total over three pages but you should be able to find the appropriate three easily.
http://vimeo.com/woodturning/videos/sort:alphabetical/format:thumbnail

- LeeMills
Lee,
My chuck is a Grizzly Vicmarc clone.
My tenon is 3/8'' long so not to bottom out in the chuck.
What I did realize is I did not flatten the bottom of the bowl enough for it to sit tight against the top of the jaws.
Oh I did dovetail the tenon.

kwolfe,
The funny thing is I thought I just barely touched the bottom with the tip and bang!
I was lucky that the dang think held on for as long as it did, when I got the catch my gouge dug in and
ripped the bowl off the chuck.

Rick,
I kinda one of those Oh sh..t moments huh?
 
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