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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finally finished

I wanted to try my hand at making hand planes, the shop needs several.

Struggling with the design concept, I bought a book "Making Traditional Wooden Planes" by John M. Whelan, it was no novel but a good source of wood plane design info. It's worth reading if you're researching wooden hand planes.

Trying to keep the first plane simple I decided on making a small shoulder plane in the Krenov style.

Looking around my shop I found an old 1" chisel. It is harder than heck, so I took it apart and used my Dremel tool to narrow the tang to within about an inch of the edge.

old chisel-1

old chisel-3

Having already made 1 attempt, the results weren't as desired. I had however thicknessed the oak slabs for the infill and sides.

Photobucket

25 degrees was the chosen bedding angle and I cut the front and rear pieces.

fitting the infill

Using small pieces of double stick tape to hold the front and rear infills in place so I could fit the wedge.

fitting the wedge

I chose the lay-out and drilled and holes for hardwood reinforcing pegs through all three layers. I also drew up the relief cuts for the outer layers, and cut them out with my scoll saw.

glued and pegged

I used a piece of ash as the plane sole, fitted the rear portion, and glued it in place. After that dried I screwed the front in place taking this time to adjust the throat opening.

Photobucket

With all of the components at hand, I worked toward final fit-up. When the plane was completely assembled, I tensioned the wedge and started to flatten the front and rear portion of the sole. (Notice the change in sheen around the first inch or so near the mouth. That's how much the plane nose flexes with the wedge tightened).

tensioning the plane

I didn't glue the nose portion on so that I could replace it to compensate for wear. Any thinning of the plane sole will only make the mouth opening larger.

At this point the plane of technically complete, so while it was still all square I decided to add a front tote and either a provision for a rear tote or "tap button" so that hammer blows for adjustment doesn't damage the plane body

adding a tote

Now it's time to start smoothing the edges for comfort.

Smoothing the body

It's almost done but I have made a few shavings with it :cool:

it's alive

Now I have to learn the feel of adjusting the blade with hammer taps :cool:

Thanks for looking guys.

later,
 

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Registered
Joined
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900 Posts
Finally finished

I wanted to try my hand at making hand planes, the shop needs several.

Struggling with the design concept, I bought a book "Making Traditional Wooden Planes" by John M. Whelan, it was no novel but a good source of wood plane design info. It's worth reading if you're researching wooden hand planes.

Trying to keep the first plane simple I decided on making a small shoulder plane in the Krenov style.

Looking around my shop I found an old 1" chisel. It is harder than heck, so I took it apart and used my Dremel tool to narrow the tang to within about an inch of the edge.

old chisel-1

old chisel-3

Having already made 1 attempt, the results weren't as desired. I had however thicknessed the oak slabs for the infill and sides.

Photobucket

25 degrees was the chosen bedding angle and I cut the front and rear pieces.

fitting the infill

Using small pieces of double stick tape to hold the front and rear infills in place so I could fit the wedge.

fitting the wedge

I chose the lay-out and drilled and holes for hardwood reinforcing pegs through all three layers. I also drew up the relief cuts for the outer layers, and cut them out with my scoll saw.

glued and pegged

I used a piece of ash as the plane sole, fitted the rear portion, and glued it in place. After that dried I screwed the front in place taking this time to adjust the throat opening.

Photobucket

With all of the components at hand, I worked toward final fit-up. When the plane was completely assembled, I tensioned the wedge and started to flatten the front and rear portion of the sole. (Notice the change in sheen around the first inch or so near the mouth. That's how much the plane nose flexes with the wedge tightened).

tensioning the plane

I didn't glue the nose portion on so that I could replace it to compensate for wear. Any thinning of the plane sole will only make the mouth opening larger.

At this point the plane of technically complete, so while it was still all square I decided to add a front tote and either a provision for a rear tote or "tap button" so that hammer blows for adjustment doesn't damage the plane body

adding a tote

Now it's time to start smoothing the edges for comfort.

Smoothing the body

It's almost done but I have made a few shavings with it :cool:

it's alive

Now I have to learn the feel of adjusting the blade with hammer taps :cool:

Thanks for looking guys.

later,
That is a great plane! Thanks for sharing. I just love home made tools!
 

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Registered
Joined
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13,709 Posts
Finally finished

I wanted to try my hand at making hand planes, the shop needs several.

Struggling with the design concept, I bought a book "Making Traditional Wooden Planes" by John M. Whelan, it was no novel but a good source of wood plane design info. It's worth reading if you're researching wooden hand planes.

Trying to keep the first plane simple I decided on making a small shoulder plane in the Krenov style.

Looking around my shop I found an old 1" chisel. It is harder than heck, so I took it apart and used my Dremel tool to narrow the tang to within about an inch of the edge.

old chisel-1

old chisel-3

Having already made 1 attempt, the results weren't as desired. I had however thicknessed the oak slabs for the infill and sides.

Photobucket

25 degrees was the chosen bedding angle and I cut the front and rear pieces.

fitting the infill

Using small pieces of double stick tape to hold the front and rear infills in place so I could fit the wedge.

fitting the wedge

I chose the lay-out and drilled and holes for hardwood reinforcing pegs through all three layers. I also drew up the relief cuts for the outer layers, and cut them out with my scoll saw.

glued and pegged

I used a piece of ash as the plane sole, fitted the rear portion, and glued it in place. After that dried I screwed the front in place taking this time to adjust the throat opening.

Photobucket

With all of the components at hand, I worked toward final fit-up. When the plane was completely assembled, I tensioned the wedge and started to flatten the front and rear portion of the sole. (Notice the change in sheen around the first inch or so near the mouth. That's how much the plane nose flexes with the wedge tightened).

tensioning the plane

I didn't glue the nose portion on so that I could replace it to compensate for wear. Any thinning of the plane sole will only make the mouth opening larger.

At this point the plane of technically complete, so while it was still all square I decided to add a front tote and either a provision for a rear tote or "tap button" so that hammer blows for adjustment doesn't damage the plane body

adding a tote

Now it's time to start smoothing the edges for comfort.

Smoothing the body

It's almost done but I have made a few shavings with it :cool:

it's alive

Now I have to learn the feel of adjusting the blade with hammer taps :cool:

Thanks for looking guys.

later,
Super little plane.

Neat idea using the chisel for the blade.
 

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Registered
Joined
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17,103 Posts
Finally finished

I wanted to try my hand at making hand planes, the shop needs several.

Struggling with the design concept, I bought a book "Making Traditional Wooden Planes" by John M. Whelan, it was no novel but a good source of wood plane design info. It's worth reading if you're researching wooden hand planes.

Trying to keep the first plane simple I decided on making a small shoulder plane in the Krenov style.

Looking around my shop I found an old 1" chisel. It is harder than heck, so I took it apart and used my Dremel tool to narrow the tang to within about an inch of the edge.

old chisel-1

old chisel-3

Having already made 1 attempt, the results weren't as desired. I had however thicknessed the oak slabs for the infill and sides.

Photobucket

25 degrees was the chosen bedding angle and I cut the front and rear pieces.

fitting the infill

Using small pieces of double stick tape to hold the front and rear infills in place so I could fit the wedge.

fitting the wedge

I chose the lay-out and drilled and holes for hardwood reinforcing pegs through all three layers. I also drew up the relief cuts for the outer layers, and cut them out with my scoll saw.

glued and pegged

I used a piece of ash as the plane sole, fitted the rear portion, and glued it in place. After that dried I screwed the front in place taking this time to adjust the throat opening.

Photobucket

With all of the components at hand, I worked toward final fit-up. When the plane was completely assembled, I tensioned the wedge and started to flatten the front and rear portion of the sole. (Notice the change in sheen around the first inch or so near the mouth. That's how much the plane nose flexes with the wedge tightened).

tensioning the plane

I didn't glue the nose portion on so that I could replace it to compensate for wear. Any thinning of the plane sole will only make the mouth opening larger.

At this point the plane of technically complete, so while it was still all square I decided to add a front tote and either a provision for a rear tote or "tap button" so that hammer blows for adjustment doesn't damage the plane body

adding a tote

Now it's time to start smoothing the edges for comfort.

Smoothing the body

It's almost done but I have made a few shavings with it :cool:

it's alive

Now I have to learn the feel of adjusting the blade with hammer taps :cool:

Thanks for looking guys.

later,
Nice job. It's very satisfying when you make a tool and it actually works. Especially a handplane. Well done and thanks for the informative blog. Looking forward to your next one.
 

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Registered
Joined
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3,464 Posts
Finally finished

I wanted to try my hand at making hand planes, the shop needs several.

Struggling with the design concept, I bought a book "Making Traditional Wooden Planes" by John M. Whelan, it was no novel but a good source of wood plane design info. It's worth reading if you're researching wooden hand planes.

Trying to keep the first plane simple I decided on making a small shoulder plane in the Krenov style.

Looking around my shop I found an old 1" chisel. It is harder than heck, so I took it apart and used my Dremel tool to narrow the tang to within about an inch of the edge.

old chisel-1

old chisel-3

Having already made 1 attempt, the results weren't as desired. I had however thicknessed the oak slabs for the infill and sides.

Photobucket

25 degrees was the chosen bedding angle and I cut the front and rear pieces.

fitting the infill

Using small pieces of double stick tape to hold the front and rear infills in place so I could fit the wedge.

fitting the wedge

I chose the lay-out and drilled and holes for hardwood reinforcing pegs through all three layers. I also drew up the relief cuts for the outer layers, and cut them out with my scoll saw.

glued and pegged

I used a piece of ash as the plane sole, fitted the rear portion, and glued it in place. After that dried I screwed the front in place taking this time to adjust the throat opening.

Photobucket

With all of the components at hand, I worked toward final fit-up. When the plane was completely assembled, I tensioned the wedge and started to flatten the front and rear portion of the sole. (Notice the change in sheen around the first inch or so near the mouth. That's how much the plane nose flexes with the wedge tightened).

tensioning the plane

I didn't glue the nose portion on so that I could replace it to compensate for wear. Any thinning of the plane sole will only make the mouth opening larger.

At this point the plane of technically complete, so while it was still all square I decided to add a front tote and either a provision for a rear tote or "tap button" so that hammer blows for adjustment doesn't damage the plane body

adding a tote

Now it's time to start smoothing the edges for comfort.

Smoothing the body

It's almost done but I have made a few shavings with it :cool:

it's alive

Now I have to learn the feel of adjusting the blade with hammer taps :cool:

Thanks for looking guys.

later,
This is cool! I love how you used the old chisel as an iron.
 

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Registered
Joined
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14 Posts
Finally finished

I wanted to try my hand at making hand planes, the shop needs several.

Struggling with the design concept, I bought a book "Making Traditional Wooden Planes" by John M. Whelan, it was no novel but a good source of wood plane design info. It's worth reading if you're researching wooden hand planes.

Trying to keep the first plane simple I decided on making a small shoulder plane in the Krenov style.

Looking around my shop I found an old 1" chisel. It is harder than heck, so I took it apart and used my Dremel tool to narrow the tang to within about an inch of the edge.

old chisel-1

old chisel-3

Having already made 1 attempt, the results weren't as desired. I had however thicknessed the oak slabs for the infill and sides.

Photobucket

25 degrees was the chosen bedding angle and I cut the front and rear pieces.

fitting the infill

Using small pieces of double stick tape to hold the front and rear infills in place so I could fit the wedge.

fitting the wedge

I chose the lay-out and drilled and holes for hardwood reinforcing pegs through all three layers. I also drew up the relief cuts for the outer layers, and cut them out with my scoll saw.

glued and pegged

I used a piece of ash as the plane sole, fitted the rear portion, and glued it in place. After that dried I screwed the front in place taking this time to adjust the throat opening.

Photobucket

With all of the components at hand, I worked toward final fit-up. When the plane was completely assembled, I tensioned the wedge and started to flatten the front and rear portion of the sole. (Notice the change in sheen around the first inch or so near the mouth. That's how much the plane nose flexes with the wedge tightened).

tensioning the plane

I didn't glue the nose portion on so that I could replace it to compensate for wear. Any thinning of the plane sole will only make the mouth opening larger.

At this point the plane of technically complete, so while it was still all square I decided to add a front tote and either a provision for a rear tote or "tap button" so that hammer blows for adjustment doesn't damage the plane body

adding a tote

Now it's time to start smoothing the edges for comfort.

Smoothing the body

It's almost done but I have made a few shavings with it :cool:

it's alive

Now I have to learn the feel of adjusting the blade with hammer taps :cool:

Thanks for looking guys.

later,
Really impressive. I like the simplicity and it looks like it makes very nice shavings.
 

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Registered
Joined
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624 Posts
Finally finished

I wanted to try my hand at making hand planes, the shop needs several.

Struggling with the design concept, I bought a book "Making Traditional Wooden Planes" by John M. Whelan, it was no novel but a good source of wood plane design info. It's worth reading if you're researching wooden hand planes.

Trying to keep the first plane simple I decided on making a small shoulder plane in the Krenov style.

Looking around my shop I found an old 1" chisel. It is harder than heck, so I took it apart and used my Dremel tool to narrow the tang to within about an inch of the edge.

old chisel-1

old chisel-3

Having already made 1 attempt, the results weren't as desired. I had however thicknessed the oak slabs for the infill and sides.

Photobucket

25 degrees was the chosen bedding angle and I cut the front and rear pieces.

fitting the infill

Using small pieces of double stick tape to hold the front and rear infills in place so I could fit the wedge.

fitting the wedge

I chose the lay-out and drilled and holes for hardwood reinforcing pegs through all three layers. I also drew up the relief cuts for the outer layers, and cut them out with my scoll saw.

glued and pegged

I used a piece of ash as the plane sole, fitted the rear portion, and glued it in place. After that dried I screwed the front in place taking this time to adjust the throat opening.

Photobucket

With all of the components at hand, I worked toward final fit-up. When the plane was completely assembled, I tensioned the wedge and started to flatten the front and rear portion of the sole. (Notice the change in sheen around the first inch or so near the mouth. That's how much the plane nose flexes with the wedge tightened).

tensioning the plane

I didn't glue the nose portion on so that I could replace it to compensate for wear. Any thinning of the plane sole will only make the mouth opening larger.

At this point the plane of technically complete, so while it was still all square I decided to add a front tote and either a provision for a rear tote or "tap button" so that hammer blows for adjustment doesn't damage the plane body

adding a tote

Now it's time to start smoothing the edges for comfort.

Smoothing the body

It's almost done but I have made a few shavings with it :cool:

it's alive

Now I have to learn the feel of adjusting the blade with hammer taps :cool:

Thanks for looking guys.

later,
Thanks for the detailed pics. Having just made my first plane the bug has bitten. Will put this in my favorites list.
 

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Registered
Joined
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2,727 Posts
Finally finished

I wanted to try my hand at making hand planes, the shop needs several.

Struggling with the design concept, I bought a book "Making Traditional Wooden Planes" by John M. Whelan, it was no novel but a good source of wood plane design info. It's worth reading if you're researching wooden hand planes.

Trying to keep the first plane simple I decided on making a small shoulder plane in the Krenov style.

Looking around my shop I found an old 1" chisel. It is harder than heck, so I took it apart and used my Dremel tool to narrow the tang to within about an inch of the edge.

old chisel-1

old chisel-3

Having already made 1 attempt, the results weren't as desired. I had however thicknessed the oak slabs for the infill and sides.

Photobucket

25 degrees was the chosen bedding angle and I cut the front and rear pieces.

fitting the infill

Using small pieces of double stick tape to hold the front and rear infills in place so I could fit the wedge.

fitting the wedge

I chose the lay-out and drilled and holes for hardwood reinforcing pegs through all three layers. I also drew up the relief cuts for the outer layers, and cut them out with my scoll saw.

glued and pegged

I used a piece of ash as the plane sole, fitted the rear portion, and glued it in place. After that dried I screwed the front in place taking this time to adjust the throat opening.

Photobucket

With all of the components at hand, I worked toward final fit-up. When the plane was completely assembled, I tensioned the wedge and started to flatten the front and rear portion of the sole. (Notice the change in sheen around the first inch or so near the mouth. That's how much the plane nose flexes with the wedge tightened).

tensioning the plane

I didn't glue the nose portion on so that I could replace it to compensate for wear. Any thinning of the plane sole will only make the mouth opening larger.

At this point the plane of technically complete, so while it was still all square I decided to add a front tote and either a provision for a rear tote or "tap button" so that hammer blows for adjustment doesn't damage the plane body

adding a tote

Now it's time to start smoothing the edges for comfort.

Smoothing the body

It's almost done but I have made a few shavings with it :cool:

it's alive

Now I have to learn the feel of adjusting the blade with hammer taps :cool:

Thanks for looking guys.

later,
very nice

Thanks for sharing
 

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Registered
Joined
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32,187 Posts
Finally finished

I wanted to try my hand at making hand planes, the shop needs several.

Struggling with the design concept, I bought a book "Making Traditional Wooden Planes" by John M. Whelan, it was no novel but a good source of wood plane design info. It's worth reading if you're researching wooden hand planes.

Trying to keep the first plane simple I decided on making a small shoulder plane in the Krenov style.

Looking around my shop I found an old 1" chisel. It is harder than heck, so I took it apart and used my Dremel tool to narrow the tang to within about an inch of the edge.

old chisel-1

old chisel-3

Having already made 1 attempt, the results weren't as desired. I had however thicknessed the oak slabs for the infill and sides.

Photobucket

25 degrees was the chosen bedding angle and I cut the front and rear pieces.

fitting the infill

Using small pieces of double stick tape to hold the front and rear infills in place so I could fit the wedge.

fitting the wedge

I chose the lay-out and drilled and holes for hardwood reinforcing pegs through all three layers. I also drew up the relief cuts for the outer layers, and cut them out with my scoll saw.

glued and pegged

I used a piece of ash as the plane sole, fitted the rear portion, and glued it in place. After that dried I screwed the front in place taking this time to adjust the throat opening.

Photobucket

With all of the components at hand, I worked toward final fit-up. When the plane was completely assembled, I tensioned the wedge and started to flatten the front and rear portion of the sole. (Notice the change in sheen around the first inch or so near the mouth. That's how much the plane nose flexes with the wedge tightened).

tensioning the plane

I didn't glue the nose portion on so that I could replace it to compensate for wear. Any thinning of the plane sole will only make the mouth opening larger.

At this point the plane of technically complete, so while it was still all square I decided to add a front tote and either a provision for a rear tote or "tap button" so that hammer blows for adjustment doesn't damage the plane body

adding a tote

Now it's time to start smoothing the edges for comfort.

Smoothing the body

It's almost done but I have made a few shavings with it :cool:

it's alive

Now I have to learn the feel of adjusting the blade with hammer taps :cool:

Thanks for looking guys.

later,
I love handmade shop tools. This post was very interesting and you did a very good job of posting this and also have made an excellent plane. Thanks
 

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Registered
Joined
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17,103 Posts
Finally finished

I wanted to try my hand at making hand planes, the shop needs several.

Struggling with the design concept, I bought a book "Making Traditional Wooden Planes" by John M. Whelan, it was no novel but a good source of wood plane design info. It's worth reading if you're researching wooden hand planes.

Trying to keep the first plane simple I decided on making a small shoulder plane in the Krenov style.

Looking around my shop I found an old 1" chisel. It is harder than heck, so I took it apart and used my Dremel tool to narrow the tang to within about an inch of the edge.

old chisel-1

old chisel-3

Having already made 1 attempt, the results weren't as desired. I had however thicknessed the oak slabs for the infill and sides.

Photobucket

25 degrees was the chosen bedding angle and I cut the front and rear pieces.

fitting the infill

Using small pieces of double stick tape to hold the front and rear infills in place so I could fit the wedge.

fitting the wedge

I chose the lay-out and drilled and holes for hardwood reinforcing pegs through all three layers. I also drew up the relief cuts for the outer layers, and cut them out with my scoll saw.

glued and pegged

I used a piece of ash as the plane sole, fitted the rear portion, and glued it in place. After that dried I screwed the front in place taking this time to adjust the throat opening.

Photobucket

With all of the components at hand, I worked toward final fit-up. When the plane was completely assembled, I tensioned the wedge and started to flatten the front and rear portion of the sole. (Notice the change in sheen around the first inch or so near the mouth. That's how much the plane nose flexes with the wedge tightened).

tensioning the plane

I didn't glue the nose portion on so that I could replace it to compensate for wear. Any thinning of the plane sole will only make the mouth opening larger.

At this point the plane of technically complete, so while it was still all square I decided to add a front tote and either a provision for a rear tote or "tap button" so that hammer blows for adjustment doesn't damage the plane body

adding a tote

Now it's time to start smoothing the edges for comfort.

Smoothing the body

It's almost done but I have made a few shavings with it :cool:

it's alive

Now I have to learn the feel of adjusting the blade with hammer taps :cool:

Thanks for looking guys.

later,
I like it! Handy and very nicely made plane. I'm favoriting it for future reference. Thanks!
 

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Registered
Joined
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10,899 Posts
Finally finished

I wanted to try my hand at making hand planes, the shop needs several.

Struggling with the design concept, I bought a book "Making Traditional Wooden Planes" by John M. Whelan, it was no novel but a good source of wood plane design info. It's worth reading if you're researching wooden hand planes.

Trying to keep the first plane simple I decided on making a small shoulder plane in the Krenov style.

Looking around my shop I found an old 1" chisel. It is harder than heck, so I took it apart and used my Dremel tool to narrow the tang to within about an inch of the edge.

old chisel-1

old chisel-3

Having already made 1 attempt, the results weren't as desired. I had however thicknessed the oak slabs for the infill and sides.

Photobucket

25 degrees was the chosen bedding angle and I cut the front and rear pieces.

fitting the infill

Using small pieces of double stick tape to hold the front and rear infills in place so I could fit the wedge.

fitting the wedge

I chose the lay-out and drilled and holes for hardwood reinforcing pegs through all three layers. I also drew up the relief cuts for the outer layers, and cut them out with my scoll saw.

glued and pegged

I used a piece of ash as the plane sole, fitted the rear portion, and glued it in place. After that dried I screwed the front in place taking this time to adjust the throat opening.

Photobucket

With all of the components at hand, I worked toward final fit-up. When the plane was completely assembled, I tensioned the wedge and started to flatten the front and rear portion of the sole. (Notice the change in sheen around the first inch or so near the mouth. That's how much the plane nose flexes with the wedge tightened).

tensioning the plane

I didn't glue the nose portion on so that I could replace it to compensate for wear. Any thinning of the plane sole will only make the mouth opening larger.

At this point the plane of technically complete, so while it was still all square I decided to add a front tote and either a provision for a rear tote or "tap button" so that hammer blows for adjustment doesn't damage the plane body

adding a tote

Now it's time to start smoothing the edges for comfort.

Smoothing the body

It's almost done but I have made a few shavings with it :cool:

it's alive

Now I have to learn the feel of adjusting the blade with hammer taps :cool:

Thanks for looking guys.

later,
nothing like a handmade tool to use
well done

Dennis
 

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Registered
Joined
·
5,687 Posts
Finally finished

I wanted to try my hand at making hand planes, the shop needs several.

Struggling with the design concept, I bought a book "Making Traditional Wooden Planes" by John M. Whelan, it was no novel but a good source of wood plane design info. It's worth reading if you're researching wooden hand planes.

Trying to keep the first plane simple I decided on making a small shoulder plane in the Krenov style.

Looking around my shop I found an old 1" chisel. It is harder than heck, so I took it apart and used my Dremel tool to narrow the tang to within about an inch of the edge.

old chisel-1

old chisel-3

Having already made 1 attempt, the results weren't as desired. I had however thicknessed the oak slabs for the infill and sides.

Photobucket

25 degrees was the chosen bedding angle and I cut the front and rear pieces.

fitting the infill

Using small pieces of double stick tape to hold the front and rear infills in place so I could fit the wedge.

fitting the wedge

I chose the lay-out and drilled and holes for hardwood reinforcing pegs through all three layers. I also drew up the relief cuts for the outer layers, and cut them out with my scoll saw.

glued and pegged

I used a piece of ash as the plane sole, fitted the rear portion, and glued it in place. After that dried I screwed the front in place taking this time to adjust the throat opening.

Photobucket

With all of the components at hand, I worked toward final fit-up. When the plane was completely assembled, I tensioned the wedge and started to flatten the front and rear portion of the sole. (Notice the change in sheen around the first inch or so near the mouth. That's how much the plane nose flexes with the wedge tightened).

tensioning the plane

I didn't glue the nose portion on so that I could replace it to compensate for wear. Any thinning of the plane sole will only make the mouth opening larger.

At this point the plane of technically complete, so while it was still all square I decided to add a front tote and either a provision for a rear tote or "tap button" so that hammer blows for adjustment doesn't damage the plane body

adding a tote

Now it's time to start smoothing the edges for comfort.

Smoothing the body

It's almost done but I have made a few shavings with it :cool:

it's alive

Now I have to learn the feel of adjusting the blade with hammer taps :cool:

Thanks for looking guys.

later,
Thanks for writing this, it is very clear and makes me want to find an old chisel and follow in your footsteps.
 

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Registered
Joined
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110 Posts
Finally finished

I wanted to try my hand at making hand planes, the shop needs several.

Struggling with the design concept, I bought a book "Making Traditional Wooden Planes" by John M. Whelan, it was no novel but a good source of wood plane design info. It's worth reading if you're researching wooden hand planes.

Trying to keep the first plane simple I decided on making a small shoulder plane in the Krenov style.

Looking around my shop I found an old 1" chisel. It is harder than heck, so I took it apart and used my Dremel tool to narrow the tang to within about an inch of the edge.

old chisel-1

old chisel-3

Having already made 1 attempt, the results weren't as desired. I had however thicknessed the oak slabs for the infill and sides.

Photobucket

25 degrees was the chosen bedding angle and I cut the front and rear pieces.

fitting the infill

Using small pieces of double stick tape to hold the front and rear infills in place so I could fit the wedge.

fitting the wedge

I chose the lay-out and drilled and holes for hardwood reinforcing pegs through all three layers. I also drew up the relief cuts for the outer layers, and cut them out with my scoll saw.

glued and pegged

I used a piece of ash as the plane sole, fitted the rear portion, and glued it in place. After that dried I screwed the front in place taking this time to adjust the throat opening.

Photobucket

With all of the components at hand, I worked toward final fit-up. When the plane was completely assembled, I tensioned the wedge and started to flatten the front and rear portion of the sole. (Notice the change in sheen around the first inch or so near the mouth. That's how much the plane nose flexes with the wedge tightened).

tensioning the plane

I didn't glue the nose portion on so that I could replace it to compensate for wear. Any thinning of the plane sole will only make the mouth opening larger.

At this point the plane of technically complete, so while it was still all square I decided to add a front tote and either a provision for a rear tote or "tap button" so that hammer blows for adjustment doesn't damage the plane body

adding a tote

Now it's time to start smoothing the edges for comfort.

Smoothing the body

It's almost done but I have made a few shavings with it :cool:

it's alive

Now I have to learn the feel of adjusting the blade with hammer taps :cool:

Thanks for looking guys.

later,
That's really nice. I think I might have to do as others have suggested and try this out for myself. Thanks for posting.
 
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