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I used this to answer another guys questions about shop lights but thought I would share here…..

I have to say. I was talked into using some L.E.D. 4 inch CAN lights to put in a ceiling of one of my bedrooms upstairs. They were on sale at Lowes so bought 4 for this room at the time $16.00 down form $33. AND they came with the bulb. AND you can aim them is you wish

WOW I have never thought about using LEDS for anything but MY GAWD they are wonderful. A nice warm bright smooth light. They produce ZERO HEAT.

They do not require a junction box. and that means you don't have to screw one to a rafter

Above all each one of these lights consumes only 9 watts and will last longer than I will. The light is so bright I could of gotten away by using only two.

I went back and bought evenyone they had left and plan to replace every other light fixture I have upstairs

I mean 9 WATTS!!???? that's almost ZERO. I have ONE 100 watt indecent bulb in my kitchen that is pulling more watts than a whole second floor of these magical lights.

I have about 20 of the WAL-MART 48 inch double tube floruecent shop lights in my shop right now, but when they start giving up ghost they will be replaced with LEDs. LEDs are still on the pricy side but I bet when my florescent lights start to flicker out LEDs will be half what they are now
 

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I put them all over my house remodel last year.
Have several to put in the shop when I get to the ceiling work.

In my old basement shop I used a couple of giant 65watt CFL bulbs that were equal to the light of a 300 watt "indecent" light, but I like the LEDs better.

By the way, Walmart has a 60 watt equlivent LED that looks just like a regular bulb and sells for $9. They will just screw into any existing fixture; even work on dimmers.
 

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Rich, would you mind posting which particular ones you got from Lowes.
 

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JA, Have you tried them or seen them in use. That's very interesting.
 

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You always can make your own LED lights for a lot less than you can buy them at store. You can design the shape of the lighting fixture (curved, rectangular, vertical; you name it)and the amount of light that best serve you.
 

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@Cha
JA, Have you tried them or seen them in use. That s very interesting.

- CharlesA
No but I'm seriously considering the option in the near future. We've recently moved into a new building that has inadequate lighting due to aging T12 fixtures. Either the fixtures need replacing with newer T8 or T5 fixtures or I look into retrofitting the existing ones with the LED bulbs.
 

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LED lighting is not "zero heat". Touch outside of the can after they've been on all day.

I have all LED recessed in my kitchen. They don't THROW heat like incandescants, but they do PRODUCE heat in their bases. You can only insulate directly against them if their housing is "IC" rated. I believe that's "insulation contact".

I stuck a spare one out in the shop to see how it'd work out there. Sure starts up nice and bright (as opposed to the fluorescents which start out a little dim as they warm up). I'll be testing light coverage area by unplugging some of the tube lights to see how much I'd actually get in terms of coverage by switching.
 

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The LED replacements for fluorescent tubes are very interesting. We have started looking at a switch at the company I consult with. There is a US Department of Energy web page that suggests that at the current initial investment the payback period in energy cost savings might be a bit more than you would want. Nobody has owned these bulbs for long enough to know what the real field lifetime will be. However, these things keep getting cheaper every day.

A few things to consider. You have to be careful when buying bulbs to be certain that the ones you purchase are made to retro-fit in existing fluorescent fixtures. Some are not compatible. Perhaps a more important aspect is the "spread" of the light. An " old fashioned" fluorescent tube radiates light in a 360 degree pattern. That's why we have fixtures that reflect the light that would otherwise go astray. The LED tubes have a row (or rows) of LEDs that face in one direction. The angle of spread from the bulb is what you get. It is generally a more narrowly focused pattern meaning that you mint need additional fixtures to get even lighting. The fixture might as well be flat black, it is not going to reflect any additional light.

Neither of these issues is a show stopper, but they should be considered before going out and dropping a large sum of money on LED tubes and being disappointed.
 

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LED's aren't yet a good replacement for tubes, if you're looking to save money. Honest companies will even tell you that.

The foregoing aside, I love the cans and strips.

I remodeled my kitchen and installed 22" strips under the cabinets (about 1-1/2" back, so the light just reaches the end of the counter) and control them via a magnetic transformer (allows me to control dimming from a 120VAC switch) and we rarely turn on the overheads anymore. When at the sink or stove, we do turn on the task light there, however.

My entire counters are lit at under forty watts.

The strips cost me ten a piece, plus reasonable shipping, from LightingWill.com. They came mounted on aluminum strips and can be cut on lines every inch and a half or so. As such, I have no unlighted spots.

I have the dine room on a four way with dimmable LED's. Though they consume even less then pig lights, they do get hot to the touch at the heat sink.

For the shop, all my tools now have a forty watt LED for task lighting. The bulbs were under five each and light better than the bulbs they replaced.
 

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Kelly, which 22" strips did you get from lightingwill? I'm not yet up on LED's like this and am a bit baffled by the selection.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
All I know is have installed these lights and have gone and ran my hand along them, above them and above them and have not detected anyHEAT what so ever. They are as cold as the attic air.

I am not scientist all I know is what I see, hear, and feel!
 

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AS far as the LEDs they seem too good to be true. Bu tI have insulted then all over my house

1) For the most part they emit no heat!

2) They are tiny!

3) They last for a lifetime

4) They use a fraction of the energy what we uses to use!

I am not saying they are a god send. All I know what I see.

I have a bedroom that use to use a 100 watt tube light that now looks like a museum room that is now is OVER LIT using 4 LEDs that consumes a total of 26 watts

I MEAN SHEET!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
LED lighting is not "zero heat". Touch outside of the can after they ve been on all day.

I have all LED recessed in my kitchen. They don t THROW heat like incandescants, but they do PRODUCE heat in their bases. You can only insulate directly against them if their housing is "IC" rated. I believe that s "insulation contact".

I stuck a spare one out in the shop to see how it d work out there. Sure starts up nice and bright (as opposed to the fluorescents which start out a little dim as they warm up). I ll be testing light coverage area by unplugging some of the tube lights to see how much I d actually get in terms of coverage by switching.

- Charlie
I am not stupid enough to think they admit ZERO heat. I know better that that. But they ambit not enough heat to make any heat they give off any concideration.

Opposed to incadecent and halogen lights LEDs are a god send. SHIT they use to burn entire buildings down
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
LED s aren t yet a good replacement for tubes, if you re looking to save money. Honest companies will even tell you that.

The foregoing aside, I love the cans and strips.

I remodeled my kitchen and installed 22" strips under the cabinets (about 1-1/2" back, so the light just reaches the end of the counter) and control them via a magnetic transformer (allows me to control dimming from a 120VAC switch) and we rarely turn on the overheads anymore. When at the sink or stove, we do turn on the task light there, however.

My entire counters are lit at under forty watts.

The strips cost me ten a piece, plus reasonable shipping, from LightingWill.com. They came mounted on aluminum strips and can be cut on lines every inch and a half or so. As such, I have no unlighted spots.

I have the dine room on a four way with dimmable LED s. Though they consume even less then pig lights, they do get hot to the touch at the heat sink.

For the shop, all my tools now have a forty watt LED for task lighting. The bulbs were under five each and light better than the bulbs they replaced.

- Kelly
I agree they are not cost effective yet but soon they will be. BUT even now BUT THEY LOAST FOR E VER
 

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I love LEDs as well. I retrofitted my kitchen can lights with LED bulbs and love the instant on ability, plus the brightness and cost savings they bring. I've been getting mine at Ace Hardware whenever they have the Feit Electric bulbs on sale. I think they do now for the month of January, like 2 floodlight-type bulbs for $20. I am debating on LED in my garage, but like everyone says, LED tubes are just not there yet, so I'll probably buy another T8 fixture to brighten up the garage.
 

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I recently installed LED lights in my basement shop, but instead of buying replacement bulbs, I bought a 30 Watt 120V AC to 12V DC supply and plugged it into an outlet that is connected to the light switch. I then bought a six pack of 12V RV LED light fixtures for about $50 and wired them to the supply using 16 guage in wall speaker wire. I also bought a strip of led lights that I will run along the bottom of some of the floor joists, but this project got interrupted by another project. The lighting is great and I measured 1 Amp or 12 Watts, coming out of the supply. This covers about one half of the basement. The lighting is great and will be even better when I run some strips along the joists. There is about a 3 second delay between flipping the light switch and the power suply coming up to voltage.

The replacement LED bulbs all come with a small voltage converter in them which is the more likely point of failure for the bulb. The actual LED will last a very long time, the converter can also, but is more complex than the LED.
 
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