Nice Danskos
Nice DanskosIdentifying a need
I live in a house with 7 people, 5 of them teenagers and 3 of the females. We have a LOT of shoes in our home. We don't wear shoes in the house so we always kick off our shoes right in the entryway as we come in the front door. The result is often a huge pile of mixed up shoes. Here is a picture of just some of the shoes. This is after I cleaned up most of the shoes after throwing a fit and after everyone has already left the house for the day, this is just the small remainder of shoes when everyone is gone. Believe me, it is usually MUCH worse.
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We need a better solution.
Obviously, based on the title of this blog entry, I want a shoe bench. This blog will chronicle my solution to our messy shoe pile.
Guess what I am starting to design today….......a shoe bench! So I follow with interest.Identifying a need
I live in a house with 7 people, 5 of them teenagers and 3 of the females. We have a LOT of shoes in our home. We don't wear shoes in the house so we always kick off our shoes right in the entryway as we come in the front door. The result is often a huge pile of mixed up shoes. Here is a picture of just some of the shoes. This is after I cleaned up most of the shoes after throwing a fit and after everyone has already left the house for the day, this is just the small remainder of shoes when everyone is gone. Believe me, it is usually MUCH worse.
![]()
We need a better solution.
Obviously, based on the title of this blog entry, I want a shoe bench. This blog will chronicle my solution to our messy shoe pile.
Al, nope, neither of us is a physician, but I do have sore feet. These danskos help, they really do. My lady friend turned me on to dansko a few years ago and now that is all I wear, even in the dead of winter. They make a difference on my feet and back.Identifying a need
I live in a house with 7 people, 5 of them teenagers and 3 of the females. We have a LOT of shoes in our home. We don't wear shoes in the house so we always kick off our shoes right in the entryway as we come in the front door. The result is often a huge pile of mixed up shoes. Here is a picture of just some of the shoes. This is after I cleaned up most of the shoes after throwing a fit and after everyone has already left the house for the day, this is just the small remainder of shoes when everyone is gone. Believe me, it is usually MUCH worse.
![]()
We need a better solution.
Obviously, based on the title of this blog entry, I want a shoe bench. This blog will chronicle my solution to our messy shoe pile.
Cool. It is really fun watching a project move through the stages of development.Design Time
My shoe bench is going to be the cubby style, flat on the top to sit, little cubbies all in a row to organize shoes.
First things first it has to fit where I want it. I want to put the bench behind the entry door up against the wall, mostly where the shoes are piled now.
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Take some measurements to find the maximum dimensions that will fit.
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Around a foot deep and 60 - 62 inches long.
How high do I want the seat. I want it to be comfortable, time to measure a few of my standard sitting spots where I put on my shoes and socks.
Sitting on the edge of the bed, that's where I put on my socks. It works, mostly cause that's where my socks are, but it is really too high to be comfortable for a bench.
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I have a little stool I keep near the door I sometime sit on to put on my boots. It is really too short to be comfortable, but it's handy.
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Probably the most comfortable height to put on and off my shoes is when I drag over a dining room chair. When my feet hurt or at the end of a long day a chair is most comfortable. Let's see, my dining room chairs are about 17 inches or so.
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So it looks like I need the envelope of the bench to be around 17 inches high, about 12 inches deep, and between 60 and 62 inches long.
There is another thread here on Lumberjocks asking the question, do you use plans or not. Me, I always use plans, at least for anything more complex than a simple box, or cutting board, or something I've made a bunch of times. For something new, something relatively complex, I make a set of plans. And my favorite tool for making up a set of plans is Sketchup. Using Sketchup allows me to build the item digitally, work through the joinery, look at the design from all sides, create a cut list, and walk through the cut and assembly flow, all before I set foot in the shop.
Here's my final design, saved in Sketchup 8. I measured a pair of shoes to get a feel for how large the cubbies need to be, bigger than 6 inches and less than 9 inches wide, 6 inches high, and however deep the bench is, in this case a foot.
And a cut list with dimensions. Not really a cut list, more of an unfolded layout, a cut picture??
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Looks like you got there. It is going to be nice when you get it finished. Do you have a plane set up for rougher work? Might have gone faster with a plane set up to take a more agressive cut.Prepping the stock
I looked at various woods for the bench and ended up deciding on poplar, why, because it was relatively cheap, and I could get it in wide boards.
I wanted to build the top of the bench as a single board. I sorted through the wide boards available and looked for one with some interesting figure. Here's the one I finally settled on:
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I didn't want to split the seat but my jointer is only 6 inches wide. Unfortunately the board with the best figure had the most cup. The cup was pretty bad, over an 1/8 of an inch.
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The seat is just over a foot wide, 61 inches long, has an eighth inch cup, and wont fit my jointer. So I have a couple options. I could make a planer sled and slide it through my benchtop planer. Or a better choice for me, mostly because I enjoy doing it, is to hand plane it flat on one side and then run it through the power planer to straighten up the other side.
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After a bit of work on one side it's starting to flatten out
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Eventually I got the top and selves flattened out and ended up needing to work the sides too.
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It turned out to be quite a bit of work but I enjoyed it. Kind of the quiet therapeutic woodworking I don't get enough of. Anyhow, progress is being made.
This is a very nice shoe bench with plenty of place for the shoes.Prepping the stock
I looked at various woods for the bench and ended up deciding on poplar, why, because it was relatively cheap, and I could get it in wide boards.
I wanted to build the top of the bench as a single board. I sorted through the wide boards available and looked for one with some interesting figure. Here's the one I finally settled on:
![]()
I didn't want to split the seat but my jointer is only 6 inches wide. Unfortunately the board with the best figure had the most cup. The cup was pretty bad, over an 1/8 of an inch.
![]()
The seat is just over a foot wide, 61 inches long, has an eighth inch cup, and wont fit my jointer. So I have a couple options. I could make a planer sled and slide it through my benchtop planer. Or a better choice for me, mostly because I enjoy doing it, is to hand plane it flat on one side and then run it through the power planer to straighten up the other side.
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After a bit of work on one side it's starting to flatten out
![]()
Eventually I got the top and selves flattened out and ended up needing to work the sides too.
![]()
It turned out to be quite a bit of work but I enjoyed it. Kind of the quiet therapeutic woodworking I don't get enough of. Anyhow, progress is being made.
Wayne, yep, I do have multiple 5's I use for rougher work, yea!, but I'm embarrassed to say EVERY one of them needs sharpened, boo!. I do have a veritas low angle jack and I could have swapped the blade from the LA 7 into the jack. Guess I didn't think about it. I prefer the big planes, the bigger the better. I picked up the 7 and didn't think about switching to the jack. The plane I like to use most, after a LA block plane, is a number 8. You get it started and it don't stop. So yeah, I need to get in a sharpening session and use the right tool for the right jobPrepping the stock
I looked at various woods for the bench and ended up deciding on poplar, why, because it was relatively cheap, and I could get it in wide boards.
I wanted to build the top of the bench as a single board. I sorted through the wide boards available and looked for one with some interesting figure. Here's the one I finally settled on:
![]()
I didn't want to split the seat but my jointer is only 6 inches wide. Unfortunately the board with the best figure had the most cup. The cup was pretty bad, over an 1/8 of an inch.
![]()
The seat is just over a foot wide, 61 inches long, has an eighth inch cup, and wont fit my jointer. So I have a couple options. I could make a planer sled and slide it through my benchtop planer. Or a better choice for me, mostly because I enjoy doing it, is to hand plane it flat on one side and then run it through the power planer to straighten up the other side.
![]()
After a bit of work on one side it's starting to flatten out
![]()
Eventually I got the top and selves flattened out and ended up needing to work the sides too.
![]()
It turned out to be quite a bit of work but I enjoyed it. Kind of the quiet therapeutic woodworking I don't get enough of. Anyhow, progress is being made.
Pat, that's what I ran into as well, blow out on the back side for the first set of mortises. That's one of the reasons I cut the wedge sides of the mortise extra large, to cut away some of the blow out. That didn't work out too well. I chiseled the second set from the show side and that worked better, but I still had a problem keeping them square.Joinery
Ok, here comes the interesting part, not the hardest part, but the most interesting part. Getting all of the joints to line up and come together snug without a lot of slop was a bit of a trick. The bench has 22 sliding dovetails, two ends with half blind dovetails, and 8 through wedged tenons. They all have to line up pretty close or things wont come together square.
I started with the half blind dovetails on the ends.
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This gave me the inside dimension from the base of the dovetails down the side to the shelves.
I used a Porter Cable 4212 Dovetail Jig to cut the half blind dovetails and the sliding dovetail dados. Here is a picture of the jig setup to cut a sliding dovetail dado.
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The Porter Cable is a pretty common jig, not too fancy or flexible but it cuts a standard dovetail with little setup or trouble. It can also cut through dovetails, sliding dovetails, dados, finger joints, and probably a few other joints if you're creative, for a reasonable price and not too much fiddling.
After cutting the half blind dovetails on the end boards I setup and cut the sliding dovetail dados on the seat and shelves. I marked the edge of the dovetail dado referenced from the end of the self. I then transferred the mark to the mating shelf to make sure the marks were in the exact same place, and then used the mark to line up with the sliding dovetail slot on the dovetail jig.
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To cut the dados I setup two routers, one with a 1/2 inch straight bit to hog out the bulk of the dovetail slot and one with the dovetail bit.
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Obviously the dovetail has to be cut in a single pass at full depth. To ease the burden on the dovetail bit I first hogged out the bulk of the dado with a straight bit set just a smidge shallower than the final dovetail depth.
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After that I just slid the shelf until the layout lines lined up with the edge of the dado slot on the jig and cut the dovetail dado in two passes, one pass with the straight bit and one pass with the dovetail bit.
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The through wedge tenons turned out to be a bigger hassle than I had anticipated. Getting the through mortises clean and square without too much of a wedge angle turned out to be too much for me. The mortises turned out too big, the tenon wedge slots are uneven and at an angle. All in all not my best work.
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I hogged out the through mortise with a forstner bit and "squared" up the mortise with a chisel. Squared is putting it politely.
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I then chisled the angle for the wedge. It turns out the wedge angle needs to be pretty small. The tenon will only spread so much, in this case "so much" was not enough. I'm confident the tenons are wedged and are not coming out, but they did end up leaving a gap on the top and bottom of the mortises.
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After that fiasco the rest was pretty easy. The dividers are all the same so I could cut the dovetails production style on my router table. Get it setup once and crank out all 4 cuts per divider.
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I used the same dovetail bit moved from my portable router to my router table. I set the bit height to the same depth as the sliding dovetail dado. After a couple trial runs I set the fence offset to end up with a snug fit of the dividers into the dovetail dados.
This is an excellent project, with some unforgiving joinery, on a rather unforgiving jig (it's the one I use, too). I've resorted to hand-cutting mortises for the same reason. It's hard to prevent blowout with anything other than a bit brace (which I use to pre-rid waste). This is a fine job.Joinery
Ok, here comes the interesting part, not the hardest part, but the most interesting part. Getting all of the joints to line up and come together snug without a lot of slop was a bit of a trick. The bench has 22 sliding dovetails, two ends with half blind dovetails, and 8 through wedged tenons. They all have to line up pretty close or things wont come together square.
I started with the half blind dovetails on the ends.
![]()
This gave me the inside dimension from the base of the dovetails down the side to the shelves.
I used a Porter Cable 4212 Dovetail Jig to cut the half blind dovetails and the sliding dovetail dados. Here is a picture of the jig setup to cut a sliding dovetail dado.
![]()
The Porter Cable is a pretty common jig, not too fancy or flexible but it cuts a standard dovetail with little setup or trouble. It can also cut through dovetails, sliding dovetails, dados, finger joints, and probably a few other joints if you're creative, for a reasonable price and not too much fiddling.
After cutting the half blind dovetails on the end boards I setup and cut the sliding dovetail dados on the seat and shelves. I marked the edge of the dovetail dado referenced from the end of the self. I then transferred the mark to the mating shelf to make sure the marks were in the exact same place, and then used the mark to line up with the sliding dovetail slot on the dovetail jig.
![]()
To cut the dados I setup two routers, one with a 1/2 inch straight bit to hog out the bulk of the dovetail slot and one with the dovetail bit.
![]()
Obviously the dovetail has to be cut in a single pass at full depth. To ease the burden on the dovetail bit I first hogged out the bulk of the dado with a straight bit set just a smidge shallower than the final dovetail depth.
![]()
After that I just slid the shelf until the layout lines lined up with the edge of the dado slot on the jig and cut the dovetail dado in two passes, one pass with the straight bit and one pass with the dovetail bit.
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The through wedge tenons turned out to be a bigger hassle than I had anticipated. Getting the through mortises clean and square without too much of a wedge angle turned out to be too much for me. The mortises turned out too big, the tenon wedge slots are uneven and at an angle. All in all not my best work.
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I hogged out the through mortise with a forstner bit and "squared" up the mortise with a chisel. Squared is putting it politely.
![]()
I then chisled the angle for the wedge. It turns out the wedge angle needs to be pretty small. The tenon will only spread so much, in this case "so much" was not enough. I'm confident the tenons are wedged and are not coming out, but they did end up leaving a gap on the top and bottom of the mortises.
![]()
After that fiasco the rest was pretty easy. The dividers are all the same so I could cut the dovetails production style on my router table. Get it setup once and crank out all 4 cuts per divider.
![]()
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I used the same dovetail bit moved from my portable router to my router table. I set the bit height to the same depth as the sliding dovetail dado. After a couple trial runs I set the fence offset to end up with a snug fit of the dividers into the dovetail dados.
Are the half blind dovetails strong enough for a project this? Very nice bench..I Like the thru mortise setupClean up and Finish prep
Got the clamps off and now it's time to clean up the glue joints and prep the surfaces for finish.
First thing to do was remove the clamps, flip the bench on it's side, and plane all of the joints even.
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After leveling the divider joints next came the ends. Bringing the half blind dovetails and through mortises level.
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After the the ends and sides were level and smooth I ran around all of the corners, exterior and interior, with a hand held router and an eighth inch round over bit.
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After that it was planing the seat smooth as glass.
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Without a back I was initially a little worried about racking, having the bench fold over with nothing to keep it square. Now that it's assembled I don't think that is going to happen. With all of the dividers dovetailed in and the through tenons wedged tight there is no flex or movement anywhere. The wood is all on the thick side of 3/4 and I sized the dovetails all to be snug. I guess we'll see over time but right now it is heavy and solid as a rock.Clean up and Finish prep
Got the clamps off and now it's time to clean up the glue joints and prep the surfaces for finish.
First thing to do was remove the clamps, flip the bench on it's side, and plane all of the joints even.
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After leveling the divider joints next came the ends. Bringing the half blind dovetails and through mortises level.
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After the the ends and sides were level and smooth I ran around all of the corners, exterior and interior, with a hand held router and an eighth inch round over bit.
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After that it was planing the seat smooth as glass.
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