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Shellac followed by glaze followed by ..?

860 Views 6 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  OSU55
I am finishing an alder bath vanity and am trying to determine my finishing schedule. So far, the base coat color I like is an amber shellac - which also helps me avoid some of the splotching issues common to alder.

I am then planning on some pitch black General Finishes glaze.

my problem is what to use as a topcoat. the shellac specifically says not to use it under polyurethane. So I looked at some lacquer I had and it says the surface must be free of shellac (and other obvious stuff). the glaze is water based, not sure if that matters.

Am I stuck using clear shellac over the glaze for a topcoat? Does having the glaze in between the shellac and topcoat open any other options?
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I use shellac under poly all the time. For about 35 years. All kinds of shellac and several different kinds of poly. I've never seen a finish failure.

So, who says no shellac under poly?
You should not put poly over shellac unless it is dewaxed.
Good point, tomd.

I only ever use de-waxed shellac.
Use this. Dewaxed shellac seal coat. It's a little thinner than standard shellac and works well as a pre-stain conditioner. I like to thin it 50/50 with denatured alcohol, but you can do some experimenting.
Tin Beverage can Tin can Aluminum can Ingredient

A lacquer topcoat would be fine.


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so, does this sound like what I need to do?

1. dewaxed shellac. I thought I would get amber flakes and see if it gets enough color to where I like it.
2. stain if i decide I want it darker than the amber shellac made it.
3. seal with another coat of dewaxed shellac if i do step 2.
4. glaze.
5. lacquer top coat.
That finish schedule will work just fine. I've used dewaxed shellac under poly, pre cat lacquer, WB poly, WB lacquer without issue. One option to getting different color shellac flakes to achieve a particular color is to use lighter shellac and tint with Transtint to whatever color desired. SealCoat works for this. Sometimes SealCoat doesn't play well with WB topcoats - one theory is the shelf life extender chemicals may interaxt poorly with the WB topcoat. As for blotching, glue size is the best conditioner I've found. I use Elmer's glue all cut 5-8 parts with water.
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