Sharpening methods

mafe said:

A update on my personal sharpening methods.

An update on my personal sharpening methods.

When I read in the blog I realized it looked like I use only my water grinder and this is not the case, so I decided for a little update showing my sharpening gear.

I like to use the Lansky system for my household and tour knifes this because it is portable and because I keep it in my kitchen so I always have scrap knifes.
It is easy to use and almost meditative to sit and sharpen a knife with.
A product I can highly recommend for knifes, and it comes now with diamond sharpeners.
(If you are thinking 'what is that strange piece of wood behind' it is a totem my daughter and I made when we were in the forest the other day, we played indians so we brought our knifes, painted our faces, put feathers in the hat and hair, throw spears and spend the most of a day making traps, looking at animals, screaming Indians songs and enjoying natures beauty).

Here are the tools for sharpening I use in my work shop.
Rough stones, finer stones for sharpening.
Arkansas stone for honing.
Curved stones, beveled stones for gouges and carving tools.
Honing compounds for wheels and leather pads for honing.
Diamond pads for free hand sharpening on router bits and so.
Glass plates with different grinds of sand paper for sharpening.
For truing I use my disc sander also.
And then my wet grinder.
So yes I do not only use the wet grinder…
When I began the wood journey a few years back I used the sandpaper on glass method only and used it with a jig, but since I got the wet grinder I must admit I tend to use this since I have a neck and arm problem after a operation so repetitive moves are really bad for me, and also I am lazy by nature.

I made this little glass plate holder blog for those who are new in this most of all because I could not find my holder, but of course I found it right after…
A piece of plywood width as the glass plate and a little longer.
Put glue in one end.

Glue on stop blocks that a thinner than the glass, and leave a little room at one end so you can mount a wedge for a firm grip.

At the underside you can mount a stop, which can be held in your wise or just held against the table edge.

Now time to prepare the plate.

I use a long piece of sand paper that I tape to the glass plate, in this way it is fast and easy to change paper.
Others prefer to glue the paper to the glass to secure a completely flat surface.

Ready.

Here you see my plates.
I have one for each grid from 120 - 240 - 320 - 400 - 600 - 1200, I am not really sure how to translate these grids to other systems, but the 1200 water paper gives a mirror finish and the famous scary sharp edge. I also tested 2000 but I feel not that it makes a sharper edge.

After I like to leather strap it with a paste.
(I'm sorry for the chisel on this photo…).

Here an example of flattening a back of a chisel on sand paper.
The big rubber is a special rubber for cleaning the paper, and this is a must, it makes the work faster and the paper last longer.

Getting there.

Now time to step up grid, personally I never go for the mirror finish, but stops around 320 - 400, and then let the leather strapping on my water grinder finish up only at the cutting edge.

For the water papers I use a duster to spray water on the paper.

Ohhh yes I do have a diamond that came with my Bahco chisels, but since it is not all flat, I will say it has almost no use, and this is why I was so curious to hear about the DMT's, I think I will have to try them, when my budget allow me.

The chisels in some of the pictures are a set I got for 5 dollar with some other tools, it is some fine metal and they hold a really fine edge, but I have never seen so badly made irons so they needed a big tour before they could be used, now they are going to be my Paris set, since the chisels I had here was a really crappy dollar store set with metal softer than butter I bought once when I had to fix a door.

UPDATE

The kind of guide I started out with, I have one here in Paris.

I forgot my hand grinder!
This baby desrves a place in the sharpening hall of fame here.

And latest new is this wonderful Peugeot hand grinder a real vintage baby that are all unused.
It will stay here in Paris to keep me sharp when I am out of town.

CHECK ALSO MY BLOG ON JAPANESE WATERSTONES.

http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/26080

Best thoughts,
Mads

Hope not to confuse now.

Best thoughts,
Mads

Click to expand...

mafe said:

A update on my personal sharpening methods.

An update on my personal sharpening methods.

When I read in the blog I realized it looked like I use only my water grinder and this is not the case, so I decided for a little update showing my sharpening gear.

I like to use the Lansky system for my household and tour knifes this because it is portable and because I keep it in my kitchen so I always have scrap knifes.
It is easy to use and almost meditative to sit and sharpen a knife with.
A product I can highly recommend for knifes, and it comes now with diamond sharpeners.
(If you are thinking 'what is that strange piece of wood behind' it is a totem my daughter and I made when we were in the forest the other day, we played indians so we brought our knifes, painted our faces, put feathers in the hat and hair, throw spears and spend the most of a day making traps, looking at animals, screaming Indians songs and enjoying natures beauty).

Here are the tools for sharpening I use in my work shop.
Rough stones, finer stones for sharpening.
Arkansas stone for honing.
Curved stones, beveled stones for gouges and carving tools.
Honing compounds for wheels and leather pads for honing.
Diamond pads for free hand sharpening on router bits and so.
Glass plates with different grinds of sand paper for sharpening.
For truing I use my disc sander also.
And then my wet grinder.
So yes I do not only use the wet grinder…
When I began the wood journey a few years back I used the sandpaper on glass method only and used it with a jig, but since I got the wet grinder I must admit I tend to use this since I have a neck and arm problem after a operation so repetitive moves are really bad for me, and also I am lazy by nature.

I made this little glass plate holder blog for those who are new in this most of all because I could not find my holder, but of course I found it right after…
A piece of plywood width as the glass plate and a little longer.
Put glue in one end.

Glue on stop blocks that a thinner than the glass, and leave a little room at one end so you can mount a wedge for a firm grip.

At the underside you can mount a stop, which can be held in your wise or just held against the table edge.

Now time to prepare the plate.

I use a long piece of sand paper that I tape to the glass plate, in this way it is fast and easy to change paper.
Others prefer to glue the paper to the glass to secure a completely flat surface.

Ready.

Here you see my plates.
I have one for each grid from 120 - 240 - 320 - 400 - 600 - 1200, I am not really sure how to translate these grids to other systems, but the 1200 water paper gives a mirror finish and the famous scary sharp edge. I also tested 2000 but I feel not that it makes a sharper edge.

After I like to leather strap it with a paste.
(I'm sorry for the chisel on this photo…).

Here an example of flattening a back of a chisel on sand paper.
The big rubber is a special rubber for cleaning the paper, and this is a must, it makes the work faster and the paper last longer.

Getting there.

Now time to step up grid, personally I never go for the mirror finish, but stops around 320 - 400, and then let the leather strapping on my water grinder finish up only at the cutting edge.

For the water papers I use a duster to spray water on the paper.

Ohhh yes I do have a diamond that came with my Bahco chisels, but since it is not all flat, I will say it has almost no use, and this is why I was so curious to hear about the DMT's, I think I will have to try them, when my budget allow me.

The chisels in some of the pictures are a set I got for 5 dollar with some other tools, it is some fine metal and they hold a really fine edge, but I have never seen so badly made irons so they needed a big tour before they could be used, now they are going to be my Paris set, since the chisels I had here was a really crappy dollar store set with metal softer than butter I bought once when I had to fix a door.

UPDATE

The kind of guide I started out with, I have one here in Paris.

I forgot my hand grinder!
This baby desrves a place in the sharpening hall of fame here.

And latest new is this wonderful Peugeot hand grinder a real vintage baby that are all unused.
It will stay here in Paris to keep me sharp when I am out of town.

CHECK ALSO MY BLOG ON JAPANESE WATERSTONES.

http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/26080

Best thoughts,
Mads

Hope not to confuse now.

Best thoughts,
Mads

Click to expand...

mafe said:

A update on my personal sharpening methods.

An update on my personal sharpening methods.

When I read in the blog I realized it looked like I use only my water grinder and this is not the case, so I decided for a little update showing my sharpening gear.

I like to use the Lansky system for my household and tour knifes this because it is portable and because I keep it in my kitchen so I always have scrap knifes.
It is easy to use and almost meditative to sit and sharpen a knife with.
A product I can highly recommend for knifes, and it comes now with diamond sharpeners.
(If you are thinking 'what is that strange piece of wood behind' it is a totem my daughter and I made when we were in the forest the other day, we played indians so we brought our knifes, painted our faces, put feathers in the hat and hair, throw spears and spend the most of a day making traps, looking at animals, screaming Indians songs and enjoying natures beauty).

Here are the tools for sharpening I use in my work shop.
Rough stones, finer stones for sharpening.
Arkansas stone for honing.
Curved stones, beveled stones for gouges and carving tools.
Honing compounds for wheels and leather pads for honing.
Diamond pads for free hand sharpening on router bits and so.
Glass plates with different grinds of sand paper for sharpening.
For truing I use my disc sander also.
And then my wet grinder.
So yes I do not only use the wet grinder…
When I began the wood journey a few years back I used the sandpaper on glass method only and used it with a jig, but since I got the wet grinder I must admit I tend to use this since I have a neck and arm problem after a operation so repetitive moves are really bad for me, and also I am lazy by nature.

I made this little glass plate holder blog for those who are new in this most of all because I could not find my holder, but of course I found it right after…
A piece of plywood width as the glass plate and a little longer.
Put glue in one end.

Glue on stop blocks that a thinner than the glass, and leave a little room at one end so you can mount a wedge for a firm grip.

At the underside you can mount a stop, which can be held in your wise or just held against the table edge.

Now time to prepare the plate.

I use a long piece of sand paper that I tape to the glass plate, in this way it is fast and easy to change paper.
Others prefer to glue the paper to the glass to secure a completely flat surface.

Ready.

Here you see my plates.
I have one for each grid from 120 - 240 - 320 - 400 - 600 - 1200, I am not really sure how to translate these grids to other systems, but the 1200 water paper gives a mirror finish and the famous scary sharp edge. I also tested 2000 but I feel not that it makes a sharper edge.

After I like to leather strap it with a paste.
(I'm sorry for the chisel on this photo…).

Here an example of flattening a back of a chisel on sand paper.
The big rubber is a special rubber for cleaning the paper, and this is a must, it makes the work faster and the paper last longer.

Getting there.

Now time to step up grid, personally I never go for the mirror finish, but stops around 320 - 400, and then let the leather strapping on my water grinder finish up only at the cutting edge.

For the water papers I use a duster to spray water on the paper.

Ohhh yes I do have a diamond that came with my Bahco chisels, but since it is not all flat, I will say it has almost no use, and this is why I was so curious to hear about the DMT's, I think I will have to try them, when my budget allow me.

The chisels in some of the pictures are a set I got for 5 dollar with some other tools, it is some fine metal and they hold a really fine edge, but I have never seen so badly made irons so they needed a big tour before they could be used, now they are going to be my Paris set, since the chisels I had here was a really crappy dollar store set with metal softer than butter I bought once when I had to fix a door.

UPDATE

The kind of guide I started out with, I have one here in Paris.

I forgot my hand grinder!
This baby desrves a place in the sharpening hall of fame here.

And latest new is this wonderful Peugeot hand grinder a real vintage baby that are all unused.
It will stay here in Paris to keep me sharp when I am out of town.

CHECK ALSO MY BLOG ON JAPANESE WATERSTONES.

http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/26080

Best thoughts,
Mads

Hope not to confuse now.

Best thoughts,
Mads

Click to expand...

mafe said:

A update on my personal sharpening methods.

An update on my personal sharpening methods.

When I read in the blog I realized it looked like I use only my water grinder and this is not the case, so I decided for a little update showing my sharpening gear.

I like to use the Lansky system for my household and tour knifes this because it is portable and because I keep it in my kitchen so I always have scrap knifes.
It is easy to use and almost meditative to sit and sharpen a knife with.
A product I can highly recommend for knifes, and it comes now with diamond sharpeners.
(If you are thinking 'what is that strange piece of wood behind' it is a totem my daughter and I made when we were in the forest the other day, we played indians so we brought our knifes, painted our faces, put feathers in the hat and hair, throw spears and spend the most of a day making traps, looking at animals, screaming Indians songs and enjoying natures beauty).

Here are the tools for sharpening I use in my work shop.
Rough stones, finer stones for sharpening.
Arkansas stone for honing.
Curved stones, beveled stones for gouges and carving tools.
Honing compounds for wheels and leather pads for honing.
Diamond pads for free hand sharpening on router bits and so.
Glass plates with different grinds of sand paper for sharpening.
For truing I use my disc sander also.
And then my wet grinder.
So yes I do not only use the wet grinder…
When I began the wood journey a few years back I used the sandpaper on glass method only and used it with a jig, but since I got the wet grinder I must admit I tend to use this since I have a neck and arm problem after a operation so repetitive moves are really bad for me, and also I am lazy by nature.

I made this little glass plate holder blog for those who are new in this most of all because I could not find my holder, but of course I found it right after…
A piece of plywood width as the glass plate and a little longer.
Put glue in one end.

Glue on stop blocks that a thinner than the glass, and leave a little room at one end so you can mount a wedge for a firm grip.

At the underside you can mount a stop, which can be held in your wise or just held against the table edge.

Now time to prepare the plate.

I use a long piece of sand paper that I tape to the glass plate, in this way it is fast and easy to change paper.
Others prefer to glue the paper to the glass to secure a completely flat surface.

Ready.

Here you see my plates.
I have one for each grid from 120 - 240 - 320 - 400 - 600 - 1200, I am not really sure how to translate these grids to other systems, but the 1200 water paper gives a mirror finish and the famous scary sharp edge. I also tested 2000 but I feel not that it makes a sharper edge.

After I like to leather strap it with a paste.
(I'm sorry for the chisel on this photo…).

Here an example of flattening a back of a chisel on sand paper.
The big rubber is a special rubber for cleaning the paper, and this is a must, it makes the work faster and the paper last longer.

Getting there.

Now time to step up grid, personally I never go for the mirror finish, but stops around 320 - 400, and then let the leather strapping on my water grinder finish up only at the cutting edge.

For the water papers I use a duster to spray water on the paper.

Ohhh yes I do have a diamond that came with my Bahco chisels, but since it is not all flat, I will say it has almost no use, and this is why I was so curious to hear about the DMT's, I think I will have to try them, when my budget allow me.

The chisels in some of the pictures are a set I got for 5 dollar with some other tools, it is some fine metal and they hold a really fine edge, but I have never seen so badly made irons so they needed a big tour before they could be used, now they are going to be my Paris set, since the chisels I had here was a really crappy dollar store set with metal softer than butter I bought once when I had to fix a door.

UPDATE

The kind of guide I started out with, I have one here in Paris.

I forgot my hand grinder!
This baby desrves a place in the sharpening hall of fame here.

And latest new is this wonderful Peugeot hand grinder a real vintage baby that are all unused.
It will stay here in Paris to keep me sharp when I am out of town.

CHECK ALSO MY BLOG ON JAPANESE WATERSTONES.

http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/26080

Best thoughts,
Mads

Hope not to confuse now.

Best thoughts,
Mads

Click to expand...

mafe said:

A update on my personal sharpening methods.

An update on my personal sharpening methods.

When I read in the blog I realized it looked like I use only my water grinder and this is not the case, so I decided for a little update showing my sharpening gear.

I like to use the Lansky system for my household and tour knifes this because it is portable and because I keep it in my kitchen so I always have scrap knifes.
It is easy to use and almost meditative to sit and sharpen a knife with.
A product I can highly recommend for knifes, and it comes now with diamond sharpeners.
(If you are thinking 'what is that strange piece of wood behind' it is a totem my daughter and I made when we were in the forest the other day, we played indians so we brought our knifes, painted our faces, put feathers in the hat and hair, throw spears and spend the most of a day making traps, looking at animals, screaming Indians songs and enjoying natures beauty).

Here are the tools for sharpening I use in my work shop.
Rough stones, finer stones for sharpening.
Arkansas stone for honing.
Curved stones, beveled stones for gouges and carving tools.
Honing compounds for wheels and leather pads for honing.
Diamond pads for free hand sharpening on router bits and so.
Glass plates with different grinds of sand paper for sharpening.
For truing I use my disc sander also.
And then my wet grinder.
So yes I do not only use the wet grinder…
When I began the wood journey a few years back I used the sandpaper on glass method only and used it with a jig, but since I got the wet grinder I must admit I tend to use this since I have a neck and arm problem after a operation so repetitive moves are really bad for me, and also I am lazy by nature.

I made this little glass plate holder blog for those who are new in this most of all because I could not find my holder, but of course I found it right after…
A piece of plywood width as the glass plate and a little longer.
Put glue in one end.

Glue on stop blocks that a thinner than the glass, and leave a little room at one end so you can mount a wedge for a firm grip.

At the underside you can mount a stop, which can be held in your wise or just held against the table edge.

Now time to prepare the plate.

I use a long piece of sand paper that I tape to the glass plate, in this way it is fast and easy to change paper.
Others prefer to glue the paper to the glass to secure a completely flat surface.

Ready.

Here you see my plates.
I have one for each grid from 120 - 240 - 320 - 400 - 600 - 1200, I am not really sure how to translate these grids to other systems, but the 1200 water paper gives a mirror finish and the famous scary sharp edge. I also tested 2000 but I feel not that it makes a sharper edge.

After I like to leather strap it with a paste.
(I'm sorry for the chisel on this photo…).

Here an example of flattening a back of a chisel on sand paper.
The big rubber is a special rubber for cleaning the paper, and this is a must, it makes the work faster and the paper last longer.

Getting there.

Now time to step up grid, personally I never go for the mirror finish, but stops around 320 - 400, and then let the leather strapping on my water grinder finish up only at the cutting edge.

For the water papers I use a duster to spray water on the paper.

Ohhh yes I do have a diamond that came with my Bahco chisels, but since it is not all flat, I will say it has almost no use, and this is why I was so curious to hear about the DMT's, I think I will have to try them, when my budget allow me.

The chisels in some of the pictures are a set I got for 5 dollar with some other tools, it is some fine metal and they hold a really fine edge, but I have never seen so badly made irons so they needed a big tour before they could be used, now they are going to be my Paris set, since the chisels I had here was a really crappy dollar store set with metal softer than butter I bought once when I had to fix a door.

UPDATE

The kind of guide I started out with, I have one here in Paris.

I forgot my hand grinder!
This baby desrves a place in the sharpening hall of fame here.

And latest new is this wonderful Peugeot hand grinder a real vintage baby that are all unused.
It will stay here in Paris to keep me sharp when I am out of town.

CHECK ALSO MY BLOG ON JAPANESE WATERSTONES.

http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/26080

Best thoughts,
Mads

Hope not to confuse now.

Best thoughts,
Mads

Click to expand...

mafe said:

A update on my personal sharpening methods.

An update on my personal sharpening methods.

When I read in the blog I realized it looked like I use only my water grinder and this is not the case, so I decided for a little update showing my sharpening gear.

I like to use the Lansky system for my household and tour knifes this because it is portable and because I keep it in my kitchen so I always have scrap knifes.
It is easy to use and almost meditative to sit and sharpen a knife with.
A product I can highly recommend for knifes, and it comes now with diamond sharpeners.
(If you are thinking 'what is that strange piece of wood behind' it is a totem my daughter and I made when we were in the forest the other day, we played indians so we brought our knifes, painted our faces, put feathers in the hat and hair, throw spears and spend the most of a day making traps, looking at animals, screaming Indians songs and enjoying natures beauty).

Here are the tools for sharpening I use in my work shop.
Rough stones, finer stones for sharpening.
Arkansas stone for honing.
Curved stones, beveled stones for gouges and carving tools.
Honing compounds for wheels and leather pads for honing.
Diamond pads for free hand sharpening on router bits and so.
Glass plates with different grinds of sand paper for sharpening.
For truing I use my disc sander also.
And then my wet grinder.
So yes I do not only use the wet grinder…
When I began the wood journey a few years back I used the sandpaper on glass method only and used it with a jig, but since I got the wet grinder I must admit I tend to use this since I have a neck and arm problem after a operation so repetitive moves are really bad for me, and also I am lazy by nature.

I made this little glass plate holder blog for those who are new in this most of all because I could not find my holder, but of course I found it right after…
A piece of plywood width as the glass plate and a little longer.
Put glue in one end.

Glue on stop blocks that a thinner than the glass, and leave a little room at one end so you can mount a wedge for a firm grip.

At the underside you can mount a stop, which can be held in your wise or just held against the table edge.

Now time to prepare the plate.

I use a long piece of sand paper that I tape to the glass plate, in this way it is fast and easy to change paper.
Others prefer to glue the paper to the glass to secure a completely flat surface.

Ready.

Here you see my plates.
I have one for each grid from 120 - 240 - 320 - 400 - 600 - 1200, I am not really sure how to translate these grids to other systems, but the 1200 water paper gives a mirror finish and the famous scary sharp edge. I also tested 2000 but I feel not that it makes a sharper edge.

After I like to leather strap it with a paste.
(I'm sorry for the chisel on this photo…).

Here an example of flattening a back of a chisel on sand paper.
The big rubber is a special rubber for cleaning the paper, and this is a must, it makes the work faster and the paper last longer.

Getting there.

Now time to step up grid, personally I never go for the mirror finish, but stops around 320 - 400, and then let the leather strapping on my water grinder finish up only at the cutting edge.

For the water papers I use a duster to spray water on the paper.

Ohhh yes I do have a diamond that came with my Bahco chisels, but since it is not all flat, I will say it has almost no use, and this is why I was so curious to hear about the DMT's, I think I will have to try them, when my budget allow me.

The chisels in some of the pictures are a set I got for 5 dollar with some other tools, it is some fine metal and they hold a really fine edge, but I have never seen so badly made irons so they needed a big tour before they could be used, now they are going to be my Paris set, since the chisels I had here was a really crappy dollar store set with metal softer than butter I bought once when I had to fix a door.

UPDATE

The kind of guide I started out with, I have one here in Paris.

I forgot my hand grinder!
This baby desrves a place in the sharpening hall of fame here.

And latest new is this wonderful Peugeot hand grinder a real vintage baby that are all unused.
It will stay here in Paris to keep me sharp when I am out of town.

CHECK ALSO MY BLOG ON JAPANESE WATERSTONES.

http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/26080

Best thoughts,
Mads

Hope not to confuse now.

Best thoughts,
Mads

Click to expand...

mafe said:

A update on my personal sharpening methods.

An update on my personal sharpening methods.

When I read in the blog I realized it looked like I use only my water grinder and this is not the case, so I decided for a little update showing my sharpening gear.

I like to use the Lansky system for my household and tour knifes this because it is portable and because I keep it in my kitchen so I always have scrap knifes.
It is easy to use and almost meditative to sit and sharpen a knife with.
A product I can highly recommend for knifes, and it comes now with diamond sharpeners.
(If you are thinking 'what is that strange piece of wood behind' it is a totem my daughter and I made when we were in the forest the other day, we played indians so we brought our knifes, painted our faces, put feathers in the hat and hair, throw spears and spend the most of a day making traps, looking at animals, screaming Indians songs and enjoying natures beauty).

Here are the tools for sharpening I use in my work shop.
Rough stones, finer stones for sharpening.
Arkansas stone for honing.
Curved stones, beveled stones for gouges and carving tools.
Honing compounds for wheels and leather pads for honing.
Diamond pads for free hand sharpening on router bits and so.
Glass plates with different grinds of sand paper for sharpening.
For truing I use my disc sander also.
And then my wet grinder.
So yes I do not only use the wet grinder…
When I began the wood journey a few years back I used the sandpaper on glass method only and used it with a jig, but since I got the wet grinder I must admit I tend to use this since I have a neck and arm problem after a operation so repetitive moves are really bad for me, and also I am lazy by nature.

I made this little glass plate holder blog for those who are new in this most of all because I could not find my holder, but of course I found it right after…
A piece of plywood width as the glass plate and a little longer.
Put glue in one end.

Glue on stop blocks that a thinner than the glass, and leave a little room at one end so you can mount a wedge for a firm grip.

At the underside you can mount a stop, which can be held in your wise or just held against the table edge.

Now time to prepare the plate.

I use a long piece of sand paper that I tape to the glass plate, in this way it is fast and easy to change paper.
Others prefer to glue the paper to the glass to secure a completely flat surface.

Ready.

Here you see my plates.
I have one for each grid from 120 - 240 - 320 - 400 - 600 - 1200, I am not really sure how to translate these grids to other systems, but the 1200 water paper gives a mirror finish and the famous scary sharp edge. I also tested 2000 but I feel not that it makes a sharper edge.

After I like to leather strap it with a paste.
(I'm sorry for the chisel on this photo…).

Here an example of flattening a back of a chisel on sand paper.
The big rubber is a special rubber for cleaning the paper, and this is a must, it makes the work faster and the paper last longer.

Getting there.

Now time to step up grid, personally I never go for the mirror finish, but stops around 320 - 400, and then let the leather strapping on my water grinder finish up only at the cutting edge.

For the water papers I use a duster to spray water on the paper.

Ohhh yes I do have a diamond that came with my Bahco chisels, but since it is not all flat, I will say it has almost no use, and this is why I was so curious to hear about the DMT's, I think I will have to try them, when my budget allow me.

The chisels in some of the pictures are a set I got for 5 dollar with some other tools, it is some fine metal and they hold a really fine edge, but I have never seen so badly made irons so they needed a big tour before they could be used, now they are going to be my Paris set, since the chisels I had here was a really crappy dollar store set with metal softer than butter I bought once when I had to fix a door.

UPDATE

The kind of guide I started out with, I have one here in Paris.

I forgot my hand grinder!
This baby desrves a place in the sharpening hall of fame here.

And latest new is this wonderful Peugeot hand grinder a real vintage baby that are all unused.
It will stay here in Paris to keep me sharp when I am out of town.

CHECK ALSO MY BLOG ON JAPANESE WATERSTONES.

http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/26080

Best thoughts,
Mads

Hope not to confuse now.

Best thoughts,
Mads

Click to expand...

mafe said:

A update on my personal sharpening methods.

An update on my personal sharpening methods.

When I read in the blog I realized it looked like I use only my water grinder and this is not the case, so I decided for a little update showing my sharpening gear.

I like to use the Lansky system for my household and tour knifes this because it is portable and because I keep it in my kitchen so I always have scrap knifes.
It is easy to use and almost meditative to sit and sharpen a knife with.
A product I can highly recommend for knifes, and it comes now with diamond sharpeners.
(If you are thinking 'what is that strange piece of wood behind' it is a totem my daughter and I made when we were in the forest the other day, we played indians so we brought our knifes, painted our faces, put feathers in the hat and hair, throw spears and spend the most of a day making traps, looking at animals, screaming Indians songs and enjoying natures beauty).

Here are the tools for sharpening I use in my work shop.
Rough stones, finer stones for sharpening.
Arkansas stone for honing.
Curved stones, beveled stones for gouges and carving tools.
Honing compounds for wheels and leather pads for honing.
Diamond pads for free hand sharpening on router bits and so.
Glass plates with different grinds of sand paper for sharpening.
For truing I use my disc sander also.
And then my wet grinder.
So yes I do not only use the wet grinder…
When I began the wood journey a few years back I used the sandpaper on glass method only and used it with a jig, but since I got the wet grinder I must admit I tend to use this since I have a neck and arm problem after a operation so repetitive moves are really bad for me, and also I am lazy by nature.

I made this little glass plate holder blog for those who are new in this most of all because I could not find my holder, but of course I found it right after…
A piece of plywood width as the glass plate and a little longer.
Put glue in one end.

Glue on stop blocks that a thinner than the glass, and leave a little room at one end so you can mount a wedge for a firm grip.

At the underside you can mount a stop, which can be held in your wise or just held against the table edge.

Now time to prepare the plate.

I use a long piece of sand paper that I tape to the glass plate, in this way it is fast and easy to change paper.
Others prefer to glue the paper to the glass to secure a completely flat surface.

Ready.

Here you see my plates.
I have one for each grid from 120 - 240 - 320 - 400 - 600 - 1200, I am not really sure how to translate these grids to other systems, but the 1200 water paper gives a mirror finish and the famous scary sharp edge. I also tested 2000 but I feel not that it makes a sharper edge.

After I like to leather strap it with a paste.
(I'm sorry for the chisel on this photo…).

Here an example of flattening a back of a chisel on sand paper.
The big rubber is a special rubber for cleaning the paper, and this is a must, it makes the work faster and the paper last longer.

Getting there.

Now time to step up grid, personally I never go for the mirror finish, but stops around 320 - 400, and then let the leather strapping on my water grinder finish up only at the cutting edge.

For the water papers I use a duster to spray water on the paper.

Ohhh yes I do have a diamond that came with my Bahco chisels, but since it is not all flat, I will say it has almost no use, and this is why I was so curious to hear about the DMT's, I think I will have to try them, when my budget allow me.

The chisels in some of the pictures are a set I got for 5 dollar with some other tools, it is some fine metal and they hold a really fine edge, but I have never seen so badly made irons so they needed a big tour before they could be used, now they are going to be my Paris set, since the chisels I had here was a really crappy dollar store set with metal softer than butter I bought once when I had to fix a door.

UPDATE

The kind of guide I started out with, I have one here in Paris.

I forgot my hand grinder!
This baby desrves a place in the sharpening hall of fame here.

And latest new is this wonderful Peugeot hand grinder a real vintage baby that are all unused.
It will stay here in Paris to keep me sharp when I am out of town.

CHECK ALSO MY BLOG ON JAPANESE WATERSTONES.

http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/26080

Best thoughts,
Mads

Hope not to confuse now.

Best thoughts,
Mads

Click to expand...

mafe said:

A update on my personal sharpening methods.

An update on my personal sharpening methods.

When I read in the blog I realized it looked like I use only my water grinder and this is not the case, so I decided for a little update showing my sharpening gear.

I like to use the Lansky system for my household and tour knifes this because it is portable and because I keep it in my kitchen so I always have scrap knifes.
It is easy to use and almost meditative to sit and sharpen a knife with.
A product I can highly recommend for knifes, and it comes now with diamond sharpeners.
(If you are thinking 'what is that strange piece of wood behind' it is a totem my daughter and I made when we were in the forest the other day, we played indians so we brought our knifes, painted our faces, put feathers in the hat and hair, throw spears and spend the most of a day making traps, looking at animals, screaming Indians songs and enjoying natures beauty).

Here are the tools for sharpening I use in my work shop.
Rough stones, finer stones for sharpening.
Arkansas stone for honing.
Curved stones, beveled stones for gouges and carving tools.
Honing compounds for wheels and leather pads for honing.
Diamond pads for free hand sharpening on router bits and so.
Glass plates with different grinds of sand paper for sharpening.
For truing I use my disc sander also.
And then my wet grinder.
So yes I do not only use the wet grinder…
When I began the wood journey a few years back I used the sandpaper on glass method only and used it with a jig, but since I got the wet grinder I must admit I tend to use this since I have a neck and arm problem after a operation so repetitive moves are really bad for me, and also I am lazy by nature.

I made this little glass plate holder blog for those who are new in this most of all because I could not find my holder, but of course I found it right after…
A piece of plywood width as the glass plate and a little longer.
Put glue in one end.

Glue on stop blocks that a thinner than the glass, and leave a little room at one end so you can mount a wedge for a firm grip.

At the underside you can mount a stop, which can be held in your wise or just held against the table edge.

Now time to prepare the plate.

I use a long piece of sand paper that I tape to the glass plate, in this way it is fast and easy to change paper.
Others prefer to glue the paper to the glass to secure a completely flat surface.

Ready.

Here you see my plates.
I have one for each grid from 120 - 240 - 320 - 400 - 600 - 1200, I am not really sure how to translate these grids to other systems, but the 1200 water paper gives a mirror finish and the famous scary sharp edge. I also tested 2000 but I feel not that it makes a sharper edge.

After I like to leather strap it with a paste.
(I'm sorry for the chisel on this photo…).

Here an example of flattening a back of a chisel on sand paper.
The big rubber is a special rubber for cleaning the paper, and this is a must, it makes the work faster and the paper last longer.

Getting there.

Now time to step up grid, personally I never go for the mirror finish, but stops around 320 - 400, and then let the leather strapping on my water grinder finish up only at the cutting edge.

For the water papers I use a duster to spray water on the paper.

Ohhh yes I do have a diamond that came with my Bahco chisels, but since it is not all flat, I will say it has almost no use, and this is why I was so curious to hear about the DMT's, I think I will have to try them, when my budget allow me.

The chisels in some of the pictures are a set I got for 5 dollar with some other tools, it is some fine metal and they hold a really fine edge, but I have never seen so badly made irons so they needed a big tour before they could be used, now they are going to be my Paris set, since the chisels I had here was a really crappy dollar store set with metal softer than butter I bought once when I had to fix a door.

UPDATE

The kind of guide I started out with, I have one here in Paris.

I forgot my hand grinder!
This baby desrves a place in the sharpening hall of fame here.

And latest new is this wonderful Peugeot hand grinder a real vintage baby that are all unused.
It will stay here in Paris to keep me sharp when I am out of town.

CHECK ALSO MY BLOG ON JAPANESE WATERSTONES.

http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/26080

Best thoughts,
Mads

Hope not to confuse now.

Best thoughts,
Mads

Click to expand...

mafe said:

A update on my personal sharpening methods.

An update on my personal sharpening methods.

When I read in the blog I realized it looked like I use only my water grinder and this is not the case, so I decided for a little update showing my sharpening gear.

I like to use the Lansky system for my household and tour knifes this because it is portable and because I keep it in my kitchen so I always have scrap knifes.
It is easy to use and almost meditative to sit and sharpen a knife with.
A product I can highly recommend for knifes, and it comes now with diamond sharpeners.
(If you are thinking 'what is that strange piece of wood behind' it is a totem my daughter and I made when we were in the forest the other day, we played indians so we brought our knifes, painted our faces, put feathers in the hat and hair, throw spears and spend the most of a day making traps, looking at animals, screaming Indians songs and enjoying natures beauty).

Here are the tools for sharpening I use in my work shop.
Rough stones, finer stones for sharpening.
Arkansas stone for honing.
Curved stones, beveled stones for gouges and carving tools.
Honing compounds for wheels and leather pads for honing.
Diamond pads for free hand sharpening on router bits and so.
Glass plates with different grinds of sand paper for sharpening.
For truing I use my disc sander also.
And then my wet grinder.
So yes I do not only use the wet grinder…
When I began the wood journey a few years back I used the sandpaper on glass method only and used it with a jig, but since I got the wet grinder I must admit I tend to use this since I have a neck and arm problem after a operation so repetitive moves are really bad for me, and also I am lazy by nature.

I made this little glass plate holder blog for those who are new in this most of all because I could not find my holder, but of course I found it right after…
A piece of plywood width as the glass plate and a little longer.
Put glue in one end.

Glue on stop blocks that a thinner than the glass, and leave a little room at one end so you can mount a wedge for a firm grip.

At the underside you can mount a stop, which can be held in your wise or just held against the table edge.

Now time to prepare the plate.

I use a long piece of sand paper that I tape to the glass plate, in this way it is fast and easy to change paper.
Others prefer to glue the paper to the glass to secure a completely flat surface.

Ready.

Here you see my plates.
I have one for each grid from 120 - 240 - 320 - 400 - 600 - 1200, I am not really sure how to translate these grids to other systems, but the 1200 water paper gives a mirror finish and the famous scary sharp edge. I also tested 2000 but I feel not that it makes a sharper edge.

After I like to leather strap it with a paste.
(I'm sorry for the chisel on this photo…).

Here an example of flattening a back of a chisel on sand paper.
The big rubber is a special rubber for cleaning the paper, and this is a must, it makes the work faster and the paper last longer.

Getting there.

Now time to step up grid, personally I never go for the mirror finish, but stops around 320 - 400, and then let the leather strapping on my water grinder finish up only at the cutting edge.

For the water papers I use a duster to spray water on the paper.

Ohhh yes I do have a diamond that came with my Bahco chisels, but since it is not all flat, I will say it has almost no use, and this is why I was so curious to hear about the DMT's, I think I will have to try them, when my budget allow me.

The chisels in some of the pictures are a set I got for 5 dollar with some other tools, it is some fine metal and they hold a really fine edge, but I have never seen so badly made irons so they needed a big tour before they could be used, now they are going to be my Paris set, since the chisels I had here was a really crappy dollar store set with metal softer than butter I bought once when I had to fix a door.

UPDATE

The kind of guide I started out with, I have one here in Paris.

I forgot my hand grinder!
This baby desrves a place in the sharpening hall of fame here.

And latest new is this wonderful Peugeot hand grinder a real vintage baby that are all unused.
It will stay here in Paris to keep me sharp when I am out of town.

CHECK ALSO MY BLOG ON JAPANESE WATERSTONES.

http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/26080

Best thoughts,
Mads

Hope not to confuse now.

Best thoughts,
Mads

Click to expand...

mafe said:

A update on my personal sharpening methods.

An update on my personal sharpening methods.

When I read in the blog I realized it looked like I use only my water grinder and this is not the case, so I decided for a little update showing my sharpening gear.

I like to use the Lansky system for my household and tour knifes this because it is portable and because I keep it in my kitchen so I always have scrap knifes.
It is easy to use and almost meditative to sit and sharpen a knife with.
A product I can highly recommend for knifes, and it comes now with diamond sharpeners.
(If you are thinking 'what is that strange piece of wood behind' it is a totem my daughter and I made when we were in the forest the other day, we played indians so we brought our knifes, painted our faces, put feathers in the hat and hair, throw spears and spend the most of a day making traps, looking at animals, screaming Indians songs and enjoying natures beauty).

Here are the tools for sharpening I use in my work shop.
Rough stones, finer stones for sharpening.
Arkansas stone for honing.
Curved stones, beveled stones for gouges and carving tools.
Honing compounds for wheels and leather pads for honing.
Diamond pads for free hand sharpening on router bits and so.
Glass plates with different grinds of sand paper for sharpening.
For truing I use my disc sander also.
And then my wet grinder.
So yes I do not only use the wet grinder…
When I began the wood journey a few years back I used the sandpaper on glass method only and used it with a jig, but since I got the wet grinder I must admit I tend to use this since I have a neck and arm problem after a operation so repetitive moves are really bad for me, and also I am lazy by nature.

I made this little glass plate holder blog for those who are new in this most of all because I could not find my holder, but of course I found it right after…
A piece of plywood width as the glass plate and a little longer.
Put glue in one end.

Glue on stop blocks that a thinner than the glass, and leave a little room at one end so you can mount a wedge for a firm grip.

At the underside you can mount a stop, which can be held in your wise or just held against the table edge.

Now time to prepare the plate.

I use a long piece of sand paper that I tape to the glass plate, in this way it is fast and easy to change paper.
Others prefer to glue the paper to the glass to secure a completely flat surface.

Ready.

Here you see my plates.
I have one for each grid from 120 - 240 - 320 - 400 - 600 - 1200, I am not really sure how to translate these grids to other systems, but the 1200 water paper gives a mirror finish and the famous scary sharp edge. I also tested 2000 but I feel not that it makes a sharper edge.

After I like to leather strap it with a paste.
(I'm sorry for the chisel on this photo…).

Here an example of flattening a back of a chisel on sand paper.
The big rubber is a special rubber for cleaning the paper, and this is a must, it makes the work faster and the paper last longer.

Getting there.

Now time to step up grid, personally I never go for the mirror finish, but stops around 320 - 400, and then let the leather strapping on my water grinder finish up only at the cutting edge.

For the water papers I use a duster to spray water on the paper.

Ohhh yes I do have a diamond that came with my Bahco chisels, but since it is not all flat, I will say it has almost no use, and this is why I was so curious to hear about the DMT's, I think I will have to try them, when my budget allow me.

The chisels in some of the pictures are a set I got for 5 dollar with some other tools, it is some fine metal and they hold a really fine edge, but I have never seen so badly made irons so they needed a big tour before they could be used, now they are going to be my Paris set, since the chisels I had here was a really crappy dollar store set with metal softer than butter I bought once when I had to fix a door.

UPDATE

The kind of guide I started out with, I have one here in Paris.

I forgot my hand grinder!
This baby desrves a place in the sharpening hall of fame here.

And latest new is this wonderful Peugeot hand grinder a real vintage baby that are all unused.
It will stay here in Paris to keep me sharp when I am out of town.

CHECK ALSO MY BLOG ON JAPANESE WATERSTONES.

http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/26080

Best thoughts,
Mads

Hope not to confuse now.

Best thoughts,
Mads

Click to expand...

mafe said:

A update on my personal sharpening methods.

An update on my personal sharpening methods.

When I read in the blog I realized it looked like I use only my water grinder and this is not the case, so I decided for a little update showing my sharpening gear.

I like to use the Lansky system for my household and tour knifes this because it is portable and because I keep it in my kitchen so I always have scrap knifes.
It is easy to use and almost meditative to sit and sharpen a knife with.
A product I can highly recommend for knifes, and it comes now with diamond sharpeners.
(If you are thinking 'what is that strange piece of wood behind' it is a totem my daughter and I made when we were in the forest the other day, we played indians so we brought our knifes, painted our faces, put feathers in the hat and hair, throw spears and spend the most of a day making traps, looking at animals, screaming Indians songs and enjoying natures beauty).

Here are the tools for sharpening I use in my work shop.
Rough stones, finer stones for sharpening.
Arkansas stone for honing.
Curved stones, beveled stones for gouges and carving tools.
Honing compounds for wheels and leather pads for honing.
Diamond pads for free hand sharpening on router bits and so.
Glass plates with different grinds of sand paper for sharpening.
For truing I use my disc sander also.
And then my wet grinder.
So yes I do not only use the wet grinder…
When I began the wood journey a few years back I used the sandpaper on glass method only and used it with a jig, but since I got the wet grinder I must admit I tend to use this since I have a neck and arm problem after a operation so repetitive moves are really bad for me, and also I am lazy by nature.

I made this little glass plate holder blog for those who are new in this most of all because I could not find my holder, but of course I found it right after…
A piece of plywood width as the glass plate and a little longer.
Put glue in one end.

Glue on stop blocks that a thinner than the glass, and leave a little room at one end so you can mount a wedge for a firm grip.

At the underside you can mount a stop, which can be held in your wise or just held against the table edge.

Now time to prepare the plate.

I use a long piece of sand paper that I tape to the glass plate, in this way it is fast and easy to change paper.
Others prefer to glue the paper to the glass to secure a completely flat surface.

Ready.

Here you see my plates.
I have one for each grid from 120 - 240 - 320 - 400 - 600 - 1200, I am not really sure how to translate these grids to other systems, but the 1200 water paper gives a mirror finish and the famous scary sharp edge. I also tested 2000 but I feel not that it makes a sharper edge.

After I like to leather strap it with a paste.
(I'm sorry for the chisel on this photo…).

Here an example of flattening a back of a chisel on sand paper.
The big rubber is a special rubber for cleaning the paper, and this is a must, it makes the work faster and the paper last longer.

Getting there.

Now time to step up grid, personally I never go for the mirror finish, but stops around 320 - 400, and then let the leather strapping on my water grinder finish up only at the cutting edge.

For the water papers I use a duster to spray water on the paper.

Ohhh yes I do have a diamond that came with my Bahco chisels, but since it is not all flat, I will say it has almost no use, and this is why I was so curious to hear about the DMT's, I think I will have to try them, when my budget allow me.

The chisels in some of the pictures are a set I got for 5 dollar with some other tools, it is some fine metal and they hold a really fine edge, but I have never seen so badly made irons so they needed a big tour before they could be used, now they are going to be my Paris set, since the chisels I had here was a really crappy dollar store set with metal softer than butter I bought once when I had to fix a door.

UPDATE

The kind of guide I started out with, I have one here in Paris.

I forgot my hand grinder!
This baby desrves a place in the sharpening hall of fame here.

And latest new is this wonderful Peugeot hand grinder a real vintage baby that are all unused.
It will stay here in Paris to keep me sharp when I am out of town.

CHECK ALSO MY BLOG ON JAPANESE WATERSTONES.

http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/26080

Best thoughts,
Mads

Hope not to confuse now.

Best thoughts,
Mads

Click to expand...

mafe said:

A update on my personal sharpening methods.

An update on my personal sharpening methods.

When I read in the blog I realized it looked like I use only my water grinder and this is not the case, so I decided for a little update showing my sharpening gear.

I like to use the Lansky system for my household and tour knifes this because it is portable and because I keep it in my kitchen so I always have scrap knifes.
It is easy to use and almost meditative to sit and sharpen a knife with.
A product I can highly recommend for knifes, and it comes now with diamond sharpeners.
(If you are thinking 'what is that strange piece of wood behind' it is a totem my daughter and I made when we were in the forest the other day, we played indians so we brought our knifes, painted our faces, put feathers in the hat and hair, throw spears and spend the most of a day making traps, looking at animals, screaming Indians songs and enjoying natures beauty).

Here are the tools for sharpening I use in my work shop.
Rough stones, finer stones for sharpening.
Arkansas stone for honing.
Curved stones, beveled stones for gouges and carving tools.
Honing compounds for wheels and leather pads for honing.
Diamond pads for free hand sharpening on router bits and so.
Glass plates with different grinds of sand paper for sharpening.
For truing I use my disc sander also.
And then my wet grinder.
So yes I do not only use the wet grinder…
When I began the wood journey a few years back I used the sandpaper on glass method only and used it with a jig, but since I got the wet grinder I must admit I tend to use this since I have a neck and arm problem after a operation so repetitive moves are really bad for me, and also I am lazy by nature.

I made this little glass plate holder blog for those who are new in this most of all because I could not find my holder, but of course I found it right after…
A piece of plywood width as the glass plate and a little longer.
Put glue in one end.

Glue on stop blocks that a thinner than the glass, and leave a little room at one end so you can mount a wedge for a firm grip.

At the underside you can mount a stop, which can be held in your wise or just held against the table edge.

Now time to prepare the plate.

I use a long piece of sand paper that I tape to the glass plate, in this way it is fast and easy to change paper.
Others prefer to glue the paper to the glass to secure a completely flat surface.

Ready.

Here you see my plates.
I have one for each grid from 120 - 240 - 320 - 400 - 600 - 1200, I am not really sure how to translate these grids to other systems, but the 1200 water paper gives a mirror finish and the famous scary sharp edge. I also tested 2000 but I feel not that it makes a sharper edge.

After I like to leather strap it with a paste.
(I'm sorry for the chisel on this photo…).

Here an example of flattening a back of a chisel on sand paper.
The big rubber is a special rubber for cleaning the paper, and this is a must, it makes the work faster and the paper last longer.

Getting there.

Now time to step up grid, personally I never go for the mirror finish, but stops around 320 - 400, and then let the leather strapping on my water grinder finish up only at the cutting edge.

For the water papers I use a duster to spray water on the paper.

Ohhh yes I do have a diamond that came with my Bahco chisels, but since it is not all flat, I will say it has almost no use, and this is why I was so curious to hear about the DMT's, I think I will have to try them, when my budget allow me.

The chisels in some of the pictures are a set I got for 5 dollar with some other tools, it is some fine metal and they hold a really fine edge, but I have never seen so badly made irons so they needed a big tour before they could be used, now they are going to be my Paris set, since the chisels I had here was a really crappy dollar store set with metal softer than butter I bought once when I had to fix a door.

UPDATE

The kind of guide I started out with, I have one here in Paris.

I forgot my hand grinder!
This baby desrves a place in the sharpening hall of fame here.

And latest new is this wonderful Peugeot hand grinder a real vintage baby that are all unused.
It will stay here in Paris to keep me sharp when I am out of town.

CHECK ALSO MY BLOG ON JAPANESE WATERSTONES.

http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/26080

Best thoughts,
Mads

Hope not to confuse now.

Best thoughts,
Mads

Click to expand...

mafe said:

The Eclipse & Record honing guides in use

The Eclipse honing guide in use
and a jig for fast setup.

Just wanted to make a little update where I show the honing jig I use and a jig for fast set up I finally made.
Yes I use the Eclipse honing guide to help me control on the grinding of the chisels and plane irons, for touching up I usually freehand, and for Japanese plane irons you need no guide since they are so thick.

This is how it looks when you use the jig.
You push down on the pull.
Here I use it with sandpaper on glass plate for sharpening, but you can use it on any stone or diamond also.

The jig is really simple to make.
For plane irons:
A piece of plywood and then mark and fasten a stop at 2 inch 25 degrees on one side and 1 1/2 inch 30 degrees on the other side.

The plane irons must be mounted on the top of the honing jig.

Set the iron in the jig and push the iron up to the stop and fasten the blade in the jig.
It's that simple.

For chisels also, I use the other side of the jig for this, in this way I need only one jig.

The chisel is mounted in the lower part of the guide.

Choose honing degree and fasten the screw.

When not in use, you can fasten the jig in the guide and in this way it will be where you need it.

Finally I don't have to look for my meter anymore when sharpening.
Hope it could be to inspiration.

UPDATE AUGUST 2012

Updated my guides with this old Record 161.

It has a ball runner under, this means it is exelent for camber or even rounding edges.

It's simple and fast to adjust.

Here blade in place.

The edge.

The back.

Remember the cap iron.

Best thoughts,
Mads

Click to expand...

mafe said:

The Eclipse & Record honing guides in use

The Eclipse honing guide in use
and a jig for fast setup.

Just wanted to make a little update where I show the honing jig I use and a jig for fast set up I finally made.
Yes I use the Eclipse honing guide to help me control on the grinding of the chisels and plane irons, for touching up I usually freehand, and for Japanese plane irons you need no guide since they are so thick.

This is how it looks when you use the jig.
You push down on the pull.
Here I use it with sandpaper on glass plate for sharpening, but you can use it on any stone or diamond also.

The jig is really simple to make.
For plane irons:
A piece of plywood and then mark and fasten a stop at 2 inch 25 degrees on one side and 1 1/2 inch 30 degrees on the other side.

The plane irons must be mounted on the top of the honing jig.

Set the iron in the jig and push the iron up to the stop and fasten the blade in the jig.
It's that simple.

For chisels also, I use the other side of the jig for this, in this way I need only one jig.

The chisel is mounted in the lower part of the guide.

Choose honing degree and fasten the screw.

When not in use, you can fasten the jig in the guide and in this way it will be where you need it.

Finally I don't have to look for my meter anymore when sharpening.
Hope it could be to inspiration.

UPDATE AUGUST 2012

Updated my guides with this old Record 161.

It has a ball runner under, this means it is exelent for camber or even rounding edges.

It's simple and fast to adjust.

Here blade in place.

The edge.

The back.

Remember the cap iron.

Best thoughts,
Mads

Click to expand...

mafe said:

The Eclipse & Record honing guides in use

The Eclipse honing guide in use
and a jig for fast setup.

Just wanted to make a little update where I show the honing jig I use and a jig for fast set up I finally made.
Yes I use the Eclipse honing guide to help me control on the grinding of the chisels and plane irons, for touching up I usually freehand, and for Japanese plane irons you need no guide since they are so thick.

This is how it looks when you use the jig.
You push down on the pull.
Here I use it with sandpaper on glass plate for sharpening, but you can use it on any stone or diamond also.

The jig is really simple to make.
For plane irons:
A piece of plywood and then mark and fasten a stop at 2 inch 25 degrees on one side and 1 1/2 inch 30 degrees on the other side.

The plane irons must be mounted on the top of the honing jig.

Set the iron in the jig and push the iron up to the stop and fasten the blade in the jig.
It's that simple.

For chisels also, I use the other side of the jig for this, in this way I need only one jig.

The chisel is mounted in the lower part of the guide.

Choose honing degree and fasten the screw.

When not in use, you can fasten the jig in the guide and in this way it will be where you need it.

Finally I don't have to look for my meter anymore when sharpening.
Hope it could be to inspiration.

UPDATE AUGUST 2012

Updated my guides with this old Record 161.

It has a ball runner under, this means it is exelent for camber or even rounding edges.

It's simple and fast to adjust.

Here blade in place.

The edge.

The back.

Remember the cap iron.

Best thoughts,
Mads

Click to expand...

mafe said:

The Eclipse & Record honing guides in use

The Eclipse honing guide in use
and a jig for fast setup.

Just wanted to make a little update where I show the honing jig I use and a jig for fast set up I finally made.
Yes I use the Eclipse honing guide to help me control on the grinding of the chisels and plane irons, for touching up I usually freehand, and for Japanese plane irons you need no guide since they are so thick.

This is how it looks when you use the jig.
You push down on the pull.
Here I use it with sandpaper on glass plate for sharpening, but you can use it on any stone or diamond also.

The jig is really simple to make.
For plane irons:
A piece of plywood and then mark and fasten a stop at 2 inch 25 degrees on one side and 1 1/2 inch 30 degrees on the other side.

The plane irons must be mounted on the top of the honing jig.

Set the iron in the jig and push the iron up to the stop and fasten the blade in the jig.
It's that simple.

For chisels also, I use the other side of the jig for this, in this way I need only one jig.

The chisel is mounted in the lower part of the guide.

Choose honing degree and fasten the screw.

When not in use, you can fasten the jig in the guide and in this way it will be where you need it.

Finally I don't have to look for my meter anymore when sharpening.
Hope it could be to inspiration.

UPDATE AUGUST 2012

Updated my guides with this old Record 161.

It has a ball runner under, this means it is exelent for camber or even rounding edges.

It's simple and fast to adjust.

Here blade in place.

The edge.

The back.

Remember the cap iron.

Best thoughts,
Mads

Click to expand...