LumberJocks Woodworking Forum banner

Sharpening methods

118164 Views 269 Replies 69 Participants Last post by  mafe
6
What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?

What is your favorite iron and sharpening method AND why?

After we had a few talks on Berthas 'what is your favorite hand plane' blog I decided we needed to go to next step.

So please let us hear your thoughts show us pictures videos why you like your blade or sharpening method and proofs if they exist why it should be better than other.

Wood Motor vehicle Gas Machine Automotive wheel system


I am lazy by nature, and handicapped by life, so for me to stand and move the blade forward and backward on a stone or paper is a painful process, so I had to settle with a Tormek style wathergrinder and the leather wheel with past on it, also I like to use a leather strap as I work, especially on my 01 steel since this takes a easy razor edge that way, where my A2 steel seems to want more effort to become sharp again.
(I am fully aware this is not the best way to razor sharp).

Hand tool Tool Kitchen utensil Wood Garden tool

Her you can see the standard I use for chisels, bedanes, plane irons and knifes, a grinded primary bevel on the water wheel that I leave grinded, a second 5 degree extra bevel that I also hone, and of course a clean and straight iron - for the back I flatten but far from hysterical, and I put most weight on the front of the blade when I hone it so I achieve a really sharp edge.

If I was a field worker I think I would choose A2, if working in a shop 01.
In general I have come to the conclusion that 01 is the best for a chisel or plane iron I want to be able to sharpen and stay super sharp, I will choose 01 where I really want to cut the wood, also I read that it holds a better edge for the lower angles than A2.
Where A2 gives me a stronger edge with high angles, so if I look for a workhorse or a chisel that can stay alive longer, it will be A2, but it's 'sudden death' tend to annoy me, so I do prefer 01 steel.

Wood Tool Engineering Gas Machine


I have made knifes for quite some years, and here it is the same story and conclusion, that if you are willing to hone, not sharpen once in a while the softer steals provides you with a razor edge in almost no effort, where the harder steel are giving you a really nice edge for a while and then the party is over until you go home and sharpen it again.

This is wonderful clear reading about the pitch.
http://www.handplane.com/45/perfect-pitch-bedding-angles-explained/

Please let me here your thoughts.

Best thoughts,
Mads

Attachments

See less See more
241 - 260 of 270 Posts
Stropping (honing on a leather strop)

Stropping
thanks to Div.

Dear LJ's it's been a while since my last confession on LJ, this one is about stropping.
(It is actually an old set of photos that just never became a blog for a reason at that time).


For those who never heard of stropping, it is simply to hone the edge of your iron on a piece of leather with some compound or paste as the honing material, just as you have probably seen a barber do on his leather strap with the razor knife.

A long time ago I read about the term stopping and woodworking, I was really exited but when I told this to a Danish woodworker he just laughed at me and said that that he never heard of this, no one did this, and all his fellow woodworkers was laughing at this when they heard of it, and so I put this out of my head for a while.
But my friend Div then one day told me that he always stropped, he stropped his chisels regularly while using them and also his plane irons got a fast tour on the stop once in a while, and since I have a big respect for the words of Div and know he normally do nothing without a reason, I decided to make some strops and give it a try, the worst that could happen was that I would waste some leather.

After having used stop for a good time now I can say; 'I will probably never go back', I love the fact that you during your work can make a fast stopping and have this razor sharp edge right back, and after i started stropping - paring with a chisel is a new world, I am completely in control and I can leave a perfect surface on the wood.

So any bad sides? No!
Is it magic? No, just a wonderful fast way to hone your chisel back to razor while you work. It cannot sharpen a chisel, just hone it when you slowly wear down the edge, when the edge is worn down you still need to go back to the stone.
In a way it feels like using a Japan knife, you just strop instead of breaking of the blades as you go, and then at some point you have used the full capacity and need to take the full tour.

Is it difficult? No!

So let's take a look at it:


Any piece of lumber!
Cut it to square.


Then cut it in the width you desire, a good all-round strop can be 206×68 mm (app. 2,7×8,1 inch) this is the size of a standard Japanese water stone.


Cut to length.
Now I think we cut enough!


I choose to give one of the strops a handle, simply because I have seen this on the web and are thinking it could be cool for knifes.


A rounding bit on the router.


Rounding the handle fast, and with noise…


Rounded rough.


Sanding and final shaping the handle.


So time for what it is really all about; the leather.
Cut some strips to fit your wood blocks.


A good quality leather belt can be used also as you can see.
The small one is a gift for a friend that is doing some linoleum prints and so she can now hone her knifes.
You want a quality that is relatively thick and hard, but not too stiff.
The smooth side up, do not listen to those who say differently.


For glue I use a contact adhesive (two side stick glue).
Papers on the table!
Yes mother…


Glue applied both sides and time to wait fifteen minutes.
It can be done with a good pipe of tobacco.


Notice the funny clamping on the right.


Glue up and keep under press.
The Festool table is brilliant for this.


I punch my leather mark into it.
Yes I'm a child!


And here we are four new straps.


I bought a honing compound from Veritas, but you can use many other compounds but this you can go searching about on the web, I will not go deeper than this here, since we are talking religion to some and sience to others.
So what you do is simply to apply the compound to the leather and as you see it will stay on the smooth surface.
On this strop I left the other side with only the leather strop, this because some say you get the best result if you give the iron a tour on this after, personally I see no difference and use therefore only the compound side now.
(And read that in a microscope you could see absolutely no difference also if there were no compound).


And this was my first test, it worked really well, even the steel are quite hard on these Barco's.


And here you see just weeks ago while I work, I always have the strop around now, a quick fresh up while you use your chisels and you will be amazed how much more smooth the work goes.
I also used the strops with great success when I was using my carving irons, and here again it is priceless.


So what do you do?
NEVER PUSH THE BLADE, then you will cut up the leather.
Hold the chisel down to the strop in the angle of the bevel, and pull it against you.
Repeat this a couple of times.


Then turn the chisel and lay it flat on the back and again pull it against you a couple of times.


Turn and give it on or two more.


Now the chisel is razor sharp again and ready to use, no mess, no time, no trouble.


I love this more and more, with a sharp chisel you will master any kind of detail.
So go make yourself a strop!

Hope this little blog can inspire others to try the stop, and perhaps not always listen to what others tell you as I did in the first hand,

Best thoughts,
Mads
David, I love that sentence 'just a litte is the right amount'.
I make only few passes 2-3 on each side so I might have done something right this time, smiles.
Best thoughts,
Mads
Stropping (honing on a leather strop)

Stropping
thanks to Div.

Dear LJ's it's been a while since my last confession on LJ, this one is about stropping.
(It is actually an old set of photos that just never became a blog for a reason at that time).


For those who never heard of stropping, it is simply to hone the edge of your iron on a piece of leather with some compound or paste as the honing material, just as you have probably seen a barber do on his leather strap with the razor knife.

A long time ago I read about the term stopping and woodworking, I was really exited but when I told this to a Danish woodworker he just laughed at me and said that that he never heard of this, no one did this, and all his fellow woodworkers was laughing at this when they heard of it, and so I put this out of my head for a while.
But my friend Div then one day told me that he always stropped, he stropped his chisels regularly while using them and also his plane irons got a fast tour on the stop once in a while, and since I have a big respect for the words of Div and know he normally do nothing without a reason, I decided to make some strops and give it a try, the worst that could happen was that I would waste some leather.

After having used stop for a good time now I can say; 'I will probably never go back', I love the fact that you during your work can make a fast stopping and have this razor sharp edge right back, and after i started stropping - paring with a chisel is a new world, I am completely in control and I can leave a perfect surface on the wood.

So any bad sides? No!
Is it magic? No, just a wonderful fast way to hone your chisel back to razor while you work. It cannot sharpen a chisel, just hone it when you slowly wear down the edge, when the edge is worn down you still need to go back to the stone.
In a way it feels like using a Japan knife, you just strop instead of breaking of the blades as you go, and then at some point you have used the full capacity and need to take the full tour.

Is it difficult? No!

So let's take a look at it:


Any piece of lumber!
Cut it to square.


Then cut it in the width you desire, a good all-round strop can be 206×68 mm (app. 2,7×8,1 inch) this is the size of a standard Japanese water stone.


Cut to length.
Now I think we cut enough!


I choose to give one of the strops a handle, simply because I have seen this on the web and are thinking it could be cool for knifes.


A rounding bit on the router.


Rounding the handle fast, and with noise…


Rounded rough.


Sanding and final shaping the handle.


So time for what it is really all about; the leather.
Cut some strips to fit your wood blocks.


A good quality leather belt can be used also as you can see.
The small one is a gift for a friend that is doing some linoleum prints and so she can now hone her knifes.
You want a quality that is relatively thick and hard, but not too stiff.
The smooth side up, do not listen to those who say differently.


For glue I use a contact adhesive (two side stick glue).
Papers on the table!
Yes mother…


Glue applied both sides and time to wait fifteen minutes.
It can be done with a good pipe of tobacco.


Notice the funny clamping on the right.


Glue up and keep under press.
The Festool table is brilliant for this.


I punch my leather mark into it.
Yes I'm a child!


And here we are four new straps.


I bought a honing compound from Veritas, but you can use many other compounds but this you can go searching about on the web, I will not go deeper than this here, since we are talking religion to some and sience to others.
So what you do is simply to apply the compound to the leather and as you see it will stay on the smooth surface.
On this strop I left the other side with only the leather strop, this because some say you get the best result if you give the iron a tour on this after, personally I see no difference and use therefore only the compound side now.
(And read that in a microscope you could see absolutely no difference also if there were no compound).


And this was my first test, it worked really well, even the steel are quite hard on these Barco's.


And here you see just weeks ago while I work, I always have the strop around now, a quick fresh up while you use your chisels and you will be amazed how much more smooth the work goes.
I also used the strops with great success when I was using my carving irons, and here again it is priceless.


So what do you do?
NEVER PUSH THE BLADE, then you will cut up the leather.
Hold the chisel down to the strop in the angle of the bevel, and pull it against you.
Repeat this a couple of times.


Then turn the chisel and lay it flat on the back and again pull it against you a couple of times.


Turn and give it on or two more.


Now the chisel is razor sharp again and ready to use, no mess, no time, no trouble.


I love this more and more, with a sharp chisel you will master any kind of detail.
So go make yourself a strop!

Hope this little blog can inspire others to try the stop, and perhaps not always listen to what others tell you as I did in the first hand,

Best thoughts,
Mads
- and you get to a point where you can feel it is time to sharpen again, that is probably when it has become too round…
Stropping (honing on a leather strop)

Stropping
thanks to Div.

Dear LJ's it's been a while since my last confession on LJ, this one is about stropping.
(It is actually an old set of photos that just never became a blog for a reason at that time).


For those who never heard of stropping, it is simply to hone the edge of your iron on a piece of leather with some compound or paste as the honing material, just as you have probably seen a barber do on his leather strap with the razor knife.

A long time ago I read about the term stopping and woodworking, I was really exited but when I told this to a Danish woodworker he just laughed at me and said that that he never heard of this, no one did this, and all his fellow woodworkers was laughing at this when they heard of it, and so I put this out of my head for a while.
But my friend Div then one day told me that he always stropped, he stropped his chisels regularly while using them and also his plane irons got a fast tour on the stop once in a while, and since I have a big respect for the words of Div and know he normally do nothing without a reason, I decided to make some strops and give it a try, the worst that could happen was that I would waste some leather.

After having used stop for a good time now I can say; 'I will probably never go back', I love the fact that you during your work can make a fast stopping and have this razor sharp edge right back, and after i started stropping - paring with a chisel is a new world, I am completely in control and I can leave a perfect surface on the wood.

So any bad sides? No!
Is it magic? No, just a wonderful fast way to hone your chisel back to razor while you work. It cannot sharpen a chisel, just hone it when you slowly wear down the edge, when the edge is worn down you still need to go back to the stone.
In a way it feels like using a Japan knife, you just strop instead of breaking of the blades as you go, and then at some point you have used the full capacity and need to take the full tour.

Is it difficult? No!

So let's take a look at it:


Any piece of lumber!
Cut it to square.


Then cut it in the width you desire, a good all-round strop can be 206×68 mm (app. 2,7×8,1 inch) this is the size of a standard Japanese water stone.


Cut to length.
Now I think we cut enough!


I choose to give one of the strops a handle, simply because I have seen this on the web and are thinking it could be cool for knifes.


A rounding bit on the router.


Rounding the handle fast, and with noise…


Rounded rough.


Sanding and final shaping the handle.


So time for what it is really all about; the leather.
Cut some strips to fit your wood blocks.


A good quality leather belt can be used also as you can see.
The small one is a gift for a friend that is doing some linoleum prints and so she can now hone her knifes.
You want a quality that is relatively thick and hard, but not too stiff.
The smooth side up, do not listen to those who say differently.


For glue I use a contact adhesive (two side stick glue).
Papers on the table!
Yes mother…


Glue applied both sides and time to wait fifteen minutes.
It can be done with a good pipe of tobacco.


Notice the funny clamping on the right.


Glue up and keep under press.
The Festool table is brilliant for this.


I punch my leather mark into it.
Yes I'm a child!


And here we are four new straps.


I bought a honing compound from Veritas, but you can use many other compounds but this you can go searching about on the web, I will not go deeper than this here, since we are talking religion to some and sience to others.
So what you do is simply to apply the compound to the leather and as you see it will stay on the smooth surface.
On this strop I left the other side with only the leather strop, this because some say you get the best result if you give the iron a tour on this after, personally I see no difference and use therefore only the compound side now.
(And read that in a microscope you could see absolutely no difference also if there were no compound).


And this was my first test, it worked really well, even the steel are quite hard on these Barco's.


And here you see just weeks ago while I work, I always have the strop around now, a quick fresh up while you use your chisels and you will be amazed how much more smooth the work goes.
I also used the strops with great success when I was using my carving irons, and here again it is priceless.


So what do you do?
NEVER PUSH THE BLADE, then you will cut up the leather.
Hold the chisel down to the strop in the angle of the bevel, and pull it against you.
Repeat this a couple of times.


Then turn the chisel and lay it flat on the back and again pull it against you a couple of times.


Turn and give it on or two more.


Now the chisel is razor sharp again and ready to use, no mess, no time, no trouble.


I love this more and more, with a sharp chisel you will master any kind of detail.
So go make yourself a strop!

Hope this little blog can inspire others to try the stop, and perhaps not always listen to what others tell you as I did in the first hand,

Best thoughts,
Mads
I just ordered my christmas present for myself, a 800 times USB microscope, so during December I will play with this - lol.
Sometimes it is just more easy to do it than to keep thinking… And it will be fun to see if what we think, feel and reality follows in this case.
The child,
Mads
Stropping (honing on a leather strop)

Stropping
thanks to Div.

Dear LJ's it's been a while since my last confession on LJ, this one is about stropping.
(It is actually an old set of photos that just never became a blog for a reason at that time).


For those who never heard of stropping, it is simply to hone the edge of your iron on a piece of leather with some compound or paste as the honing material, just as you have probably seen a barber do on his leather strap with the razor knife.

A long time ago I read about the term stopping and woodworking, I was really exited but when I told this to a Danish woodworker he just laughed at me and said that that he never heard of this, no one did this, and all his fellow woodworkers was laughing at this when they heard of it, and so I put this out of my head for a while.
But my friend Div then one day told me that he always stropped, he stropped his chisels regularly while using them and also his plane irons got a fast tour on the stop once in a while, and since I have a big respect for the words of Div and know he normally do nothing without a reason, I decided to make some strops and give it a try, the worst that could happen was that I would waste some leather.

After having used stop for a good time now I can say; 'I will probably never go back', I love the fact that you during your work can make a fast stopping and have this razor sharp edge right back, and after i started stropping - paring with a chisel is a new world, I am completely in control and I can leave a perfect surface on the wood.

So any bad sides? No!
Is it magic? No, just a wonderful fast way to hone your chisel back to razor while you work. It cannot sharpen a chisel, just hone it when you slowly wear down the edge, when the edge is worn down you still need to go back to the stone.
In a way it feels like using a Japan knife, you just strop instead of breaking of the blades as you go, and then at some point you have used the full capacity and need to take the full tour.

Is it difficult? No!

So let's take a look at it:


Any piece of lumber!
Cut it to square.


Then cut it in the width you desire, a good all-round strop can be 206×68 mm (app. 2,7×8,1 inch) this is the size of a standard Japanese water stone.


Cut to length.
Now I think we cut enough!


I choose to give one of the strops a handle, simply because I have seen this on the web and are thinking it could be cool for knifes.


A rounding bit on the router.


Rounding the handle fast, and with noise…


Rounded rough.


Sanding and final shaping the handle.


So time for what it is really all about; the leather.
Cut some strips to fit your wood blocks.


A good quality leather belt can be used also as you can see.
The small one is a gift for a friend that is doing some linoleum prints and so she can now hone her knifes.
You want a quality that is relatively thick and hard, but not too stiff.
The smooth side up, do not listen to those who say differently.


For glue I use a contact adhesive (two side stick glue).
Papers on the table!
Yes mother…


Glue applied both sides and time to wait fifteen minutes.
It can be done with a good pipe of tobacco.


Notice the funny clamping on the right.


Glue up and keep under press.
The Festool table is brilliant for this.


I punch my leather mark into it.
Yes I'm a child!


And here we are four new straps.


I bought a honing compound from Veritas, but you can use many other compounds but this you can go searching about on the web, I will not go deeper than this here, since we are talking religion to some and sience to others.
So what you do is simply to apply the compound to the leather and as you see it will stay on the smooth surface.
On this strop I left the other side with only the leather strop, this because some say you get the best result if you give the iron a tour on this after, personally I see no difference and use therefore only the compound side now.
(And read that in a microscope you could see absolutely no difference also if there were no compound).


And this was my first test, it worked really well, even the steel are quite hard on these Barco's.


And here you see just weeks ago while I work, I always have the strop around now, a quick fresh up while you use your chisels and you will be amazed how much more smooth the work goes.
I also used the strops with great success when I was using my carving irons, and here again it is priceless.


So what do you do?
NEVER PUSH THE BLADE, then you will cut up the leather.
Hold the chisel down to the strop in the angle of the bevel, and pull it against you.
Repeat this a couple of times.


Then turn the chisel and lay it flat on the back and again pull it against you a couple of times.


Turn and give it on or two more.


Now the chisel is razor sharp again and ready to use, no mess, no time, no trouble.


I love this more and more, with a sharp chisel you will master any kind of detail.
So go make yourself a strop!

Hope this little blog can inspire others to try the stop, and perhaps not always listen to what others tell you as I did in the first hand,

Best thoughts,
Mads
Oh My, I always wanted a USB microscope. I just can't justify it :)
Stropping (honing on a leather strop)

Stropping
thanks to Div.

Dear LJ's it's been a while since my last confession on LJ, this one is about stropping.
(It is actually an old set of photos that just never became a blog for a reason at that time).


For those who never heard of stropping, it is simply to hone the edge of your iron on a piece of leather with some compound or paste as the honing material, just as you have probably seen a barber do on his leather strap with the razor knife.

A long time ago I read about the term stopping and woodworking, I was really exited but when I told this to a Danish woodworker he just laughed at me and said that that he never heard of this, no one did this, and all his fellow woodworkers was laughing at this when they heard of it, and so I put this out of my head for a while.
But my friend Div then one day told me that he always stropped, he stropped his chisels regularly while using them and also his plane irons got a fast tour on the stop once in a while, and since I have a big respect for the words of Div and know he normally do nothing without a reason, I decided to make some strops and give it a try, the worst that could happen was that I would waste some leather.

After having used stop for a good time now I can say; 'I will probably never go back', I love the fact that you during your work can make a fast stopping and have this razor sharp edge right back, and after i started stropping - paring with a chisel is a new world, I am completely in control and I can leave a perfect surface on the wood.

So any bad sides? No!
Is it magic? No, just a wonderful fast way to hone your chisel back to razor while you work. It cannot sharpen a chisel, just hone it when you slowly wear down the edge, when the edge is worn down you still need to go back to the stone.
In a way it feels like using a Japan knife, you just strop instead of breaking of the blades as you go, and then at some point you have used the full capacity and need to take the full tour.

Is it difficult? No!

So let's take a look at it:


Any piece of lumber!
Cut it to square.


Then cut it in the width you desire, a good all-round strop can be 206×68 mm (app. 2,7×8,1 inch) this is the size of a standard Japanese water stone.


Cut to length.
Now I think we cut enough!


I choose to give one of the strops a handle, simply because I have seen this on the web and are thinking it could be cool for knifes.


A rounding bit on the router.


Rounding the handle fast, and with noise…


Rounded rough.


Sanding and final shaping the handle.


So time for what it is really all about; the leather.
Cut some strips to fit your wood blocks.


A good quality leather belt can be used also as you can see.
The small one is a gift for a friend that is doing some linoleum prints and so she can now hone her knifes.
You want a quality that is relatively thick and hard, but not too stiff.
The smooth side up, do not listen to those who say differently.


For glue I use a contact adhesive (two side stick glue).
Papers on the table!
Yes mother…


Glue applied both sides and time to wait fifteen minutes.
It can be done with a good pipe of tobacco.


Notice the funny clamping on the right.


Glue up and keep under press.
The Festool table is brilliant for this.


I punch my leather mark into it.
Yes I'm a child!


And here we are four new straps.


I bought a honing compound from Veritas, but you can use many other compounds but this you can go searching about on the web, I will not go deeper than this here, since we are talking religion to some and sience to others.
So what you do is simply to apply the compound to the leather and as you see it will stay on the smooth surface.
On this strop I left the other side with only the leather strop, this because some say you get the best result if you give the iron a tour on this after, personally I see no difference and use therefore only the compound side now.
(And read that in a microscope you could see absolutely no difference also if there were no compound).


And this was my first test, it worked really well, even the steel are quite hard on these Barco's.


And here you see just weeks ago while I work, I always have the strop around now, a quick fresh up while you use your chisels and you will be amazed how much more smooth the work goes.
I also used the strops with great success when I was using my carving irons, and here again it is priceless.


So what do you do?
NEVER PUSH THE BLADE, then you will cut up the leather.
Hold the chisel down to the strop in the angle of the bevel, and pull it against you.
Repeat this a couple of times.


Then turn the chisel and lay it flat on the back and again pull it against you a couple of times.


Turn and give it on or two more.


Now the chisel is razor sharp again and ready to use, no mess, no time, no trouble.


I love this more and more, with a sharp chisel you will master any kind of detail.
So go make yourself a strop!

Hope this little blog can inspire others to try the stop, and perhaps not always listen to what others tell you as I did in the first hand,

Best thoughts,
Mads
I have only me to ask… it makes it more easy - laugh.
Stropping (honing on a leather strop)

Stropping
thanks to Div.

Dear LJ's it's been a while since my last confession on LJ, this one is about stropping.
(It is actually an old set of photos that just never became a blog for a reason at that time).


For those who never heard of stropping, it is simply to hone the edge of your iron on a piece of leather with some compound or paste as the honing material, just as you have probably seen a barber do on his leather strap with the razor knife.

A long time ago I read about the term stopping and woodworking, I was really exited but when I told this to a Danish woodworker he just laughed at me and said that that he never heard of this, no one did this, and all his fellow woodworkers was laughing at this when they heard of it, and so I put this out of my head for a while.
But my friend Div then one day told me that he always stropped, he stropped his chisels regularly while using them and also his plane irons got a fast tour on the stop once in a while, and since I have a big respect for the words of Div and know he normally do nothing without a reason, I decided to make some strops and give it a try, the worst that could happen was that I would waste some leather.

After having used stop for a good time now I can say; 'I will probably never go back', I love the fact that you during your work can make a fast stopping and have this razor sharp edge right back, and after i started stropping - paring with a chisel is a new world, I am completely in control and I can leave a perfect surface on the wood.

So any bad sides? No!
Is it magic? No, just a wonderful fast way to hone your chisel back to razor while you work. It cannot sharpen a chisel, just hone it when you slowly wear down the edge, when the edge is worn down you still need to go back to the stone.
In a way it feels like using a Japan knife, you just strop instead of breaking of the blades as you go, and then at some point you have used the full capacity and need to take the full tour.

Is it difficult? No!

So let's take a look at it:


Any piece of lumber!
Cut it to square.


Then cut it in the width you desire, a good all-round strop can be 206×68 mm (app. 2,7×8,1 inch) this is the size of a standard Japanese water stone.


Cut to length.
Now I think we cut enough!


I choose to give one of the strops a handle, simply because I have seen this on the web and are thinking it could be cool for knifes.


A rounding bit on the router.


Rounding the handle fast, and with noise…


Rounded rough.


Sanding and final shaping the handle.


So time for what it is really all about; the leather.
Cut some strips to fit your wood blocks.


A good quality leather belt can be used also as you can see.
The small one is a gift for a friend that is doing some linoleum prints and so she can now hone her knifes.
You want a quality that is relatively thick and hard, but not too stiff.
The smooth side up, do not listen to those who say differently.


For glue I use a contact adhesive (two side stick glue).
Papers on the table!
Yes mother…


Glue applied both sides and time to wait fifteen minutes.
It can be done with a good pipe of tobacco.


Notice the funny clamping on the right.


Glue up and keep under press.
The Festool table is brilliant for this.


I punch my leather mark into it.
Yes I'm a child!


And here we are four new straps.


I bought a honing compound from Veritas, but you can use many other compounds but this you can go searching about on the web, I will not go deeper than this here, since we are talking religion to some and sience to others.
So what you do is simply to apply the compound to the leather and as you see it will stay on the smooth surface.
On this strop I left the other side with only the leather strop, this because some say you get the best result if you give the iron a tour on this after, personally I see no difference and use therefore only the compound side now.
(And read that in a microscope you could see absolutely no difference also if there were no compound).


And this was my first test, it worked really well, even the steel are quite hard on these Barco's.


And here you see just weeks ago while I work, I always have the strop around now, a quick fresh up while you use your chisels and you will be amazed how much more smooth the work goes.
I also used the strops with great success when I was using my carving irons, and here again it is priceless.


So what do you do?
NEVER PUSH THE BLADE, then you will cut up the leather.
Hold the chisel down to the strop in the angle of the bevel, and pull it against you.
Repeat this a couple of times.


Then turn the chisel and lay it flat on the back and again pull it against you a couple of times.


Turn and give it on or two more.


Now the chisel is razor sharp again and ready to use, no mess, no time, no trouble.


I love this more and more, with a sharp chisel you will master any kind of detail.
So go make yourself a strop!

Hope this little blog can inspire others to try the stop, and perhaps not always listen to what others tell you as I did in the first hand,

Best thoughts,
Mads
OOH NO now he will inspect all his tools …. even the sawblades on his festool

maaads ….. Mads…... MADS…... MADS..... wake up….

you are a woodworker …. not a metalugist !!

looks forward to see you play with it …. now you have advertised ….. :)

take care
Dennis
Stropping (honing on a leather strop)

Stropping
thanks to Div.

Dear LJ's it's been a while since my last confession on LJ, this one is about stropping.
(It is actually an old set of photos that just never became a blog for a reason at that time).


For those who never heard of stropping, it is simply to hone the edge of your iron on a piece of leather with some compound or paste as the honing material, just as you have probably seen a barber do on his leather strap with the razor knife.

A long time ago I read about the term stopping and woodworking, I was really exited but when I told this to a Danish woodworker he just laughed at me and said that that he never heard of this, no one did this, and all his fellow woodworkers was laughing at this when they heard of it, and so I put this out of my head for a while.
But my friend Div then one day told me that he always stropped, he stropped his chisels regularly while using them and also his plane irons got a fast tour on the stop once in a while, and since I have a big respect for the words of Div and know he normally do nothing without a reason, I decided to make some strops and give it a try, the worst that could happen was that I would waste some leather.

After having used stop for a good time now I can say; 'I will probably never go back', I love the fact that you during your work can make a fast stopping and have this razor sharp edge right back, and after i started stropping - paring with a chisel is a new world, I am completely in control and I can leave a perfect surface on the wood.

So any bad sides? No!
Is it magic? No, just a wonderful fast way to hone your chisel back to razor while you work. It cannot sharpen a chisel, just hone it when you slowly wear down the edge, when the edge is worn down you still need to go back to the stone.
In a way it feels like using a Japan knife, you just strop instead of breaking of the blades as you go, and then at some point you have used the full capacity and need to take the full tour.

Is it difficult? No!

So let's take a look at it:


Any piece of lumber!
Cut it to square.


Then cut it in the width you desire, a good all-round strop can be 206×68 mm (app. 2,7×8,1 inch) this is the size of a standard Japanese water stone.


Cut to length.
Now I think we cut enough!


I choose to give one of the strops a handle, simply because I have seen this on the web and are thinking it could be cool for knifes.


A rounding bit on the router.


Rounding the handle fast, and with noise…


Rounded rough.


Sanding and final shaping the handle.


So time for what it is really all about; the leather.
Cut some strips to fit your wood blocks.


A good quality leather belt can be used also as you can see.
The small one is a gift for a friend that is doing some linoleum prints and so she can now hone her knifes.
You want a quality that is relatively thick and hard, but not too stiff.
The smooth side up, do not listen to those who say differently.


For glue I use a contact adhesive (two side stick glue).
Papers on the table!
Yes mother…


Glue applied both sides and time to wait fifteen minutes.
It can be done with a good pipe of tobacco.


Notice the funny clamping on the right.


Glue up and keep under press.
The Festool table is brilliant for this.


I punch my leather mark into it.
Yes I'm a child!


And here we are four new straps.


I bought a honing compound from Veritas, but you can use many other compounds but this you can go searching about on the web, I will not go deeper than this here, since we are talking religion to some and sience to others.
So what you do is simply to apply the compound to the leather and as you see it will stay on the smooth surface.
On this strop I left the other side with only the leather strop, this because some say you get the best result if you give the iron a tour on this after, personally I see no difference and use therefore only the compound side now.
(And read that in a microscope you could see absolutely no difference also if there were no compound).


And this was my first test, it worked really well, even the steel are quite hard on these Barco's.


And here you see just weeks ago while I work, I always have the strop around now, a quick fresh up while you use your chisels and you will be amazed how much more smooth the work goes.
I also used the strops with great success when I was using my carving irons, and here again it is priceless.


So what do you do?
NEVER PUSH THE BLADE, then you will cut up the leather.
Hold the chisel down to the strop in the angle of the bevel, and pull it against you.
Repeat this a couple of times.


Then turn the chisel and lay it flat on the back and again pull it against you a couple of times.


Turn and give it on or two more.


Now the chisel is razor sharp again and ready to use, no mess, no time, no trouble.


I love this more and more, with a sharp chisel you will master any kind of detail.
So go make yourself a strop!

Hope this little blog can inspire others to try the stop, and perhaps not always listen to what others tell you as I did in the first hand,

Best thoughts,
Mads
Cool! I cant wait to see microscope pics!
Stropping (honing on a leather strop)

Stropping
thanks to Div.

Dear LJ's it's been a while since my last confession on LJ, this one is about stropping.
(It is actually an old set of photos that just never became a blog for a reason at that time).


For those who never heard of stropping, it is simply to hone the edge of your iron on a piece of leather with some compound or paste as the honing material, just as you have probably seen a barber do on his leather strap with the razor knife.

A long time ago I read about the term stopping and woodworking, I was really exited but when I told this to a Danish woodworker he just laughed at me and said that that he never heard of this, no one did this, and all his fellow woodworkers was laughing at this when they heard of it, and so I put this out of my head for a while.
But my friend Div then one day told me that he always stropped, he stropped his chisels regularly while using them and also his plane irons got a fast tour on the stop once in a while, and since I have a big respect for the words of Div and know he normally do nothing without a reason, I decided to make some strops and give it a try, the worst that could happen was that I would waste some leather.

After having used stop for a good time now I can say; 'I will probably never go back', I love the fact that you during your work can make a fast stopping and have this razor sharp edge right back, and after i started stropping - paring with a chisel is a new world, I am completely in control and I can leave a perfect surface on the wood.

So any bad sides? No!
Is it magic? No, just a wonderful fast way to hone your chisel back to razor while you work. It cannot sharpen a chisel, just hone it when you slowly wear down the edge, when the edge is worn down you still need to go back to the stone.
In a way it feels like using a Japan knife, you just strop instead of breaking of the blades as you go, and then at some point you have used the full capacity and need to take the full tour.

Is it difficult? No!

So let's take a look at it:


Any piece of lumber!
Cut it to square.


Then cut it in the width you desire, a good all-round strop can be 206×68 mm (app. 2,7×8,1 inch) this is the size of a standard Japanese water stone.


Cut to length.
Now I think we cut enough!


I choose to give one of the strops a handle, simply because I have seen this on the web and are thinking it could be cool for knifes.


A rounding bit on the router.


Rounding the handle fast, and with noise…


Rounded rough.


Sanding and final shaping the handle.


So time for what it is really all about; the leather.
Cut some strips to fit your wood blocks.


A good quality leather belt can be used also as you can see.
The small one is a gift for a friend that is doing some linoleum prints and so she can now hone her knifes.
You want a quality that is relatively thick and hard, but not too stiff.
The smooth side up, do not listen to those who say differently.


For glue I use a contact adhesive (two side stick glue).
Papers on the table!
Yes mother…


Glue applied both sides and time to wait fifteen minutes.
It can be done with a good pipe of tobacco.


Notice the funny clamping on the right.


Glue up and keep under press.
The Festool table is brilliant for this.


I punch my leather mark into it.
Yes I'm a child!


And here we are four new straps.


I bought a honing compound from Veritas, but you can use many other compounds but this you can go searching about on the web, I will not go deeper than this here, since we are talking religion to some and sience to others.
So what you do is simply to apply the compound to the leather and as you see it will stay on the smooth surface.
On this strop I left the other side with only the leather strop, this because some say you get the best result if you give the iron a tour on this after, personally I see no difference and use therefore only the compound side now.
(And read that in a microscope you could see absolutely no difference also if there were no compound).


And this was my first test, it worked really well, even the steel are quite hard on these Barco's.


And here you see just weeks ago while I work, I always have the strop around now, a quick fresh up while you use your chisels and you will be amazed how much more smooth the work goes.
I also used the strops with great success when I was using my carving irons, and here again it is priceless.


So what do you do?
NEVER PUSH THE BLADE, then you will cut up the leather.
Hold the chisel down to the strop in the angle of the bevel, and pull it against you.
Repeat this a couple of times.


Then turn the chisel and lay it flat on the back and again pull it against you a couple of times.


Turn and give it on or two more.


Now the chisel is razor sharp again and ready to use, no mess, no time, no trouble.


I love this more and more, with a sharp chisel you will master any kind of detail.
So go make yourself a strop!

Hope this little blog can inspire others to try the stop, and perhaps not always listen to what others tell you as I did in the first hand,

Best thoughts,
Mads
Laugh Dennis.
Do not worry I am just a child!
I have just followed so many descussions on the web, and seen so many confused that I think it is time to take a closer look.
But as I said before JUST STROP.
To use a strop with a compound that are perhaps not the best compound on the planet is way much better than to not use one, and to work with a dull chisel is plain stupid - thats my humble thoughts on the subject.
Honestly yes it makes a difference the method of sharpening and if you finish at grit 6000 or 10000 but at the end of the day the most important is that you sharpen and that you hone to keep the edge sharp, it does not help to buy more expensive tools or sharpening gear if you don't sharpen regulary.
So my no one advice is DO IT !!!
Smiles,
Mads
Stropping (honing on a leather strop)

Stropping
thanks to Div.

Dear LJ's it's been a while since my last confession on LJ, this one is about stropping.
(It is actually an old set of photos that just never became a blog for a reason at that time).


For those who never heard of stropping, it is simply to hone the edge of your iron on a piece of leather with some compound or paste as the honing material, just as you have probably seen a barber do on his leather strap with the razor knife.

A long time ago I read about the term stopping and woodworking, I was really exited but when I told this to a Danish woodworker he just laughed at me and said that that he never heard of this, no one did this, and all his fellow woodworkers was laughing at this when they heard of it, and so I put this out of my head for a while.
But my friend Div then one day told me that he always stropped, he stropped his chisels regularly while using them and also his plane irons got a fast tour on the stop once in a while, and since I have a big respect for the words of Div and know he normally do nothing without a reason, I decided to make some strops and give it a try, the worst that could happen was that I would waste some leather.

After having used stop for a good time now I can say; 'I will probably never go back', I love the fact that you during your work can make a fast stopping and have this razor sharp edge right back, and after i started stropping - paring with a chisel is a new world, I am completely in control and I can leave a perfect surface on the wood.

So any bad sides? No!
Is it magic? No, just a wonderful fast way to hone your chisel back to razor while you work. It cannot sharpen a chisel, just hone it when you slowly wear down the edge, when the edge is worn down you still need to go back to the stone.
In a way it feels like using a Japan knife, you just strop instead of breaking of the blades as you go, and then at some point you have used the full capacity and need to take the full tour.

Is it difficult? No!

So let's take a look at it:


Any piece of lumber!
Cut it to square.


Then cut it in the width you desire, a good all-round strop can be 206×68 mm (app. 2,7×8,1 inch) this is the size of a standard Japanese water stone.


Cut to length.
Now I think we cut enough!


I choose to give one of the strops a handle, simply because I have seen this on the web and are thinking it could be cool for knifes.


A rounding bit on the router.


Rounding the handle fast, and with noise…


Rounded rough.


Sanding and final shaping the handle.


So time for what it is really all about; the leather.
Cut some strips to fit your wood blocks.


A good quality leather belt can be used also as you can see.
The small one is a gift for a friend that is doing some linoleum prints and so she can now hone her knifes.
You want a quality that is relatively thick and hard, but not too stiff.
The smooth side up, do not listen to those who say differently.


For glue I use a contact adhesive (two side stick glue).
Papers on the table!
Yes mother…


Glue applied both sides and time to wait fifteen minutes.
It can be done with a good pipe of tobacco.


Notice the funny clamping on the right.


Glue up and keep under press.
The Festool table is brilliant for this.


I punch my leather mark into it.
Yes I'm a child!


And here we are four new straps.


I bought a honing compound from Veritas, but you can use many other compounds but this you can go searching about on the web, I will not go deeper than this here, since we are talking religion to some and sience to others.
So what you do is simply to apply the compound to the leather and as you see it will stay on the smooth surface.
On this strop I left the other side with only the leather strop, this because some say you get the best result if you give the iron a tour on this after, personally I see no difference and use therefore only the compound side now.
(And read that in a microscope you could see absolutely no difference also if there were no compound).


And this was my first test, it worked really well, even the steel are quite hard on these Barco's.


And here you see just weeks ago while I work, I always have the strop around now, a quick fresh up while you use your chisels and you will be amazed how much more smooth the work goes.
I also used the strops with great success when I was using my carving irons, and here again it is priceless.


So what do you do?
NEVER PUSH THE BLADE, then you will cut up the leather.
Hold the chisel down to the strop in the angle of the bevel, and pull it against you.
Repeat this a couple of times.


Then turn the chisel and lay it flat on the back and again pull it against you a couple of times.


Turn and give it on or two more.


Now the chisel is razor sharp again and ready to use, no mess, no time, no trouble.


I love this more and more, with a sharp chisel you will master any kind of detail.
So go make yourself a strop!

Hope this little blog can inspire others to try the stop, and perhaps not always listen to what others tell you as I did in the first hand,

Best thoughts,
Mads
Mauricio I will make a blog when I start using it, and then post pictures as I take them, I will not start a big sience project, just my observations on the methods I use and what others might bring to get a look at.
Stropping (honing on a leather strop)

Stropping
thanks to Div.

Dear LJ's it's been a while since my last confession on LJ, this one is about stropping.
(It is actually an old set of photos that just never became a blog for a reason at that time).


For those who never heard of stropping, it is simply to hone the edge of your iron on a piece of leather with some compound or paste as the honing material, just as you have probably seen a barber do on his leather strap with the razor knife.

A long time ago I read about the term stopping and woodworking, I was really exited but when I told this to a Danish woodworker he just laughed at me and said that that he never heard of this, no one did this, and all his fellow woodworkers was laughing at this when they heard of it, and so I put this out of my head for a while.
But my friend Div then one day told me that he always stropped, he stropped his chisels regularly while using them and also his plane irons got a fast tour on the stop once in a while, and since I have a big respect for the words of Div and know he normally do nothing without a reason, I decided to make some strops and give it a try, the worst that could happen was that I would waste some leather.

After having used stop for a good time now I can say; 'I will probably never go back', I love the fact that you during your work can make a fast stopping and have this razor sharp edge right back, and after i started stropping - paring with a chisel is a new world, I am completely in control and I can leave a perfect surface on the wood.

So any bad sides? No!
Is it magic? No, just a wonderful fast way to hone your chisel back to razor while you work. It cannot sharpen a chisel, just hone it when you slowly wear down the edge, when the edge is worn down you still need to go back to the stone.
In a way it feels like using a Japan knife, you just strop instead of breaking of the blades as you go, and then at some point you have used the full capacity and need to take the full tour.

Is it difficult? No!

So let's take a look at it:


Any piece of lumber!
Cut it to square.


Then cut it in the width you desire, a good all-round strop can be 206×68 mm (app. 2,7×8,1 inch) this is the size of a standard Japanese water stone.


Cut to length.
Now I think we cut enough!


I choose to give one of the strops a handle, simply because I have seen this on the web and are thinking it could be cool for knifes.


A rounding bit on the router.


Rounding the handle fast, and with noise…


Rounded rough.


Sanding and final shaping the handle.


So time for what it is really all about; the leather.
Cut some strips to fit your wood blocks.


A good quality leather belt can be used also as you can see.
The small one is a gift for a friend that is doing some linoleum prints and so she can now hone her knifes.
You want a quality that is relatively thick and hard, but not too stiff.
The smooth side up, do not listen to those who say differently.


For glue I use a contact adhesive (two side stick glue).
Papers on the table!
Yes mother…


Glue applied both sides and time to wait fifteen minutes.
It can be done with a good pipe of tobacco.


Notice the funny clamping on the right.


Glue up and keep under press.
The Festool table is brilliant for this.


I punch my leather mark into it.
Yes I'm a child!


And here we are four new straps.


I bought a honing compound from Veritas, but you can use many other compounds but this you can go searching about on the web, I will not go deeper than this here, since we are talking religion to some and sience to others.
So what you do is simply to apply the compound to the leather and as you see it will stay on the smooth surface.
On this strop I left the other side with only the leather strop, this because some say you get the best result if you give the iron a tour on this after, personally I see no difference and use therefore only the compound side now.
(And read that in a microscope you could see absolutely no difference also if there were no compound).


And this was my first test, it worked really well, even the steel are quite hard on these Barco's.


And here you see just weeks ago while I work, I always have the strop around now, a quick fresh up while you use your chisels and you will be amazed how much more smooth the work goes.
I also used the strops with great success when I was using my carving irons, and here again it is priceless.


So what do you do?
NEVER PUSH THE BLADE, then you will cut up the leather.
Hold the chisel down to the strop in the angle of the bevel, and pull it against you.
Repeat this a couple of times.


Then turn the chisel and lay it flat on the back and again pull it against you a couple of times.


Turn and give it on or two more.


Now the chisel is razor sharp again and ready to use, no mess, no time, no trouble.


I love this more and more, with a sharp chisel you will master any kind of detail.
So go make yourself a strop!

Hope this little blog can inspire others to try the stop, and perhaps not always listen to what others tell you as I did in the first hand,

Best thoughts,
Mads
good I cuold make you laugh with the tease …. you deserve it … :)
I was already convinced I had to look further into it before we had the talk in your shop :)
but I also needed some more infomation …. now I think I go for the pure Chromium Oxide powder
you can buy in artist shops …. shuold be the same as a 30K stone if I remember correct

yes there is alot confusion on the net not only about the stropping but also about stones

what did you have to bleed for the microscope … I do have considered one becourse of bad eyesight
a magnifying glass isn´t enoff anymore for me looking at the irons when honing/sharpening :-(

Dennis
Stropping (honing on a leather strop)

Stropping
thanks to Div.

Dear LJ's it's been a while since my last confession on LJ, this one is about stropping.
(It is actually an old set of photos that just never became a blog for a reason at that time).


For those who never heard of stropping, it is simply to hone the edge of your iron on a piece of leather with some compound or paste as the honing material, just as you have probably seen a barber do on his leather strap with the razor knife.

A long time ago I read about the term stopping and woodworking, I was really exited but when I told this to a Danish woodworker he just laughed at me and said that that he never heard of this, no one did this, and all his fellow woodworkers was laughing at this when they heard of it, and so I put this out of my head for a while.
But my friend Div then one day told me that he always stropped, he stropped his chisels regularly while using them and also his plane irons got a fast tour on the stop once in a while, and since I have a big respect for the words of Div and know he normally do nothing without a reason, I decided to make some strops and give it a try, the worst that could happen was that I would waste some leather.

After having used stop for a good time now I can say; 'I will probably never go back', I love the fact that you during your work can make a fast stopping and have this razor sharp edge right back, and after i started stropping - paring with a chisel is a new world, I am completely in control and I can leave a perfect surface on the wood.

So any bad sides? No!
Is it magic? No, just a wonderful fast way to hone your chisel back to razor while you work. It cannot sharpen a chisel, just hone it when you slowly wear down the edge, when the edge is worn down you still need to go back to the stone.
In a way it feels like using a Japan knife, you just strop instead of breaking of the blades as you go, and then at some point you have used the full capacity and need to take the full tour.

Is it difficult? No!

So let's take a look at it:


Any piece of lumber!
Cut it to square.


Then cut it in the width you desire, a good all-round strop can be 206×68 mm (app. 2,7×8,1 inch) this is the size of a standard Japanese water stone.


Cut to length.
Now I think we cut enough!


I choose to give one of the strops a handle, simply because I have seen this on the web and are thinking it could be cool for knifes.


A rounding bit on the router.


Rounding the handle fast, and with noise…


Rounded rough.


Sanding and final shaping the handle.


So time for what it is really all about; the leather.
Cut some strips to fit your wood blocks.


A good quality leather belt can be used also as you can see.
The small one is a gift for a friend that is doing some linoleum prints and so she can now hone her knifes.
You want a quality that is relatively thick and hard, but not too stiff.
The smooth side up, do not listen to those who say differently.


For glue I use a contact adhesive (two side stick glue).
Papers on the table!
Yes mother…


Glue applied both sides and time to wait fifteen minutes.
It can be done with a good pipe of tobacco.


Notice the funny clamping on the right.


Glue up and keep under press.
The Festool table is brilliant for this.


I punch my leather mark into it.
Yes I'm a child!


And here we are four new straps.


I bought a honing compound from Veritas, but you can use many other compounds but this you can go searching about on the web, I will not go deeper than this here, since we are talking religion to some and sience to others.
So what you do is simply to apply the compound to the leather and as you see it will stay on the smooth surface.
On this strop I left the other side with only the leather strop, this because some say you get the best result if you give the iron a tour on this after, personally I see no difference and use therefore only the compound side now.
(And read that in a microscope you could see absolutely no difference also if there were no compound).


And this was my first test, it worked really well, even the steel are quite hard on these Barco's.


And here you see just weeks ago while I work, I always have the strop around now, a quick fresh up while you use your chisels and you will be amazed how much more smooth the work goes.
I also used the strops with great success when I was using my carving irons, and here again it is priceless.


So what do you do?
NEVER PUSH THE BLADE, then you will cut up the leather.
Hold the chisel down to the strop in the angle of the bevel, and pull it against you.
Repeat this a couple of times.


Then turn the chisel and lay it flat on the back and again pull it against you a couple of times.


Turn and give it on or two more.


Now the chisel is razor sharp again and ready to use, no mess, no time, no trouble.


I love this more and more, with a sharp chisel you will master any kind of detail.
So go make yourself a strop!

Hope this little blog can inspire others to try the stop, and perhaps not always listen to what others tell you as I did in the first hand,

Best thoughts,
Mads
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/270842132705?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
This is the fellow.

This is a older 400 x version but seems fine.

Link for a 800 times:
Stropping (honing on a leather strop)

Stropping
thanks to Div.

Dear LJ's it's been a while since my last confession on LJ, this one is about stropping.
(It is actually an old set of photos that just never became a blog for a reason at that time).


For those who never heard of stropping, it is simply to hone the edge of your iron on a piece of leather with some compound or paste as the honing material, just as you have probably seen a barber do on his leather strap with the razor knife.

A long time ago I read about the term stopping and woodworking, I was really exited but when I told this to a Danish woodworker he just laughed at me and said that that he never heard of this, no one did this, and all his fellow woodworkers was laughing at this when they heard of it, and so I put this out of my head for a while.
But my friend Div then one day told me that he always stropped, he stropped his chisels regularly while using them and also his plane irons got a fast tour on the stop once in a while, and since I have a big respect for the words of Div and know he normally do nothing without a reason, I decided to make some strops and give it a try, the worst that could happen was that I would waste some leather.

After having used stop for a good time now I can say; 'I will probably never go back', I love the fact that you during your work can make a fast stopping and have this razor sharp edge right back, and after i started stropping - paring with a chisel is a new world, I am completely in control and I can leave a perfect surface on the wood.

So any bad sides? No!
Is it magic? No, just a wonderful fast way to hone your chisel back to razor while you work. It cannot sharpen a chisel, just hone it when you slowly wear down the edge, when the edge is worn down you still need to go back to the stone.
In a way it feels like using a Japan knife, you just strop instead of breaking of the blades as you go, and then at some point you have used the full capacity and need to take the full tour.

Is it difficult? No!

So let's take a look at it:


Any piece of lumber!
Cut it to square.


Then cut it in the width you desire, a good all-round strop can be 206×68 mm (app. 2,7×8,1 inch) this is the size of a standard Japanese water stone.


Cut to length.
Now I think we cut enough!


I choose to give one of the strops a handle, simply because I have seen this on the web and are thinking it could be cool for knifes.


A rounding bit on the router.


Rounding the handle fast, and with noise…


Rounded rough.


Sanding and final shaping the handle.


So time for what it is really all about; the leather.
Cut some strips to fit your wood blocks.


A good quality leather belt can be used also as you can see.
The small one is a gift for a friend that is doing some linoleum prints and so she can now hone her knifes.
You want a quality that is relatively thick and hard, but not too stiff.
The smooth side up, do not listen to those who say differently.


For glue I use a contact adhesive (two side stick glue).
Papers on the table!
Yes mother…


Glue applied both sides and time to wait fifteen minutes.
It can be done with a good pipe of tobacco.


Notice the funny clamping on the right.


Glue up and keep under press.
The Festool table is brilliant for this.


I punch my leather mark into it.
Yes I'm a child!


And here we are four new straps.


I bought a honing compound from Veritas, but you can use many other compounds but this you can go searching about on the web, I will not go deeper than this here, since we are talking religion to some and sience to others.
So what you do is simply to apply the compound to the leather and as you see it will stay on the smooth surface.
On this strop I left the other side with only the leather strop, this because some say you get the best result if you give the iron a tour on this after, personally I see no difference and use therefore only the compound side now.
(And read that in a microscope you could see absolutely no difference also if there were no compound).


And this was my first test, it worked really well, even the steel are quite hard on these Barco's.


And here you see just weeks ago while I work, I always have the strop around now, a quick fresh up while you use your chisels and you will be amazed how much more smooth the work goes.
I also used the strops with great success when I was using my carving irons, and here again it is priceless.


So what do you do?
NEVER PUSH THE BLADE, then you will cut up the leather.
Hold the chisel down to the strop in the angle of the bevel, and pull it against you.
Repeat this a couple of times.


Then turn the chisel and lay it flat on the back and again pull it against you a couple of times.


Turn and give it on or two more.


Now the chisel is razor sharp again and ready to use, no mess, no time, no trouble.


I love this more and more, with a sharp chisel you will master any kind of detail.
So go make yourself a strop!

Hope this little blog can inspire others to try the stop, and perhaps not always listen to what others tell you as I did in the first hand,

Best thoughts,
Mads
This might be interesting for some of you:
http://www.davidcharlesworth.co.uk/blog/
30 Mar 2008, Drastic Measures
&
16 Jul 2007, The Pleasure of Working with Sharp Tools

Interesting reading that makes sence.

Also my blog onJapanese waterstones.
http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/26080

Best thoughts,
Mads
See less See more
Stropping (honing on a leather strop)

Stropping
thanks to Div.

Dear LJ's it's been a while since my last confession on LJ, this one is about stropping.
(It is actually an old set of photos that just never became a blog for a reason at that time).


For those who never heard of stropping, it is simply to hone the edge of your iron on a piece of leather with some compound or paste as the honing material, just as you have probably seen a barber do on his leather strap with the razor knife.

A long time ago I read about the term stopping and woodworking, I was really exited but when I told this to a Danish woodworker he just laughed at me and said that that he never heard of this, no one did this, and all his fellow woodworkers was laughing at this when they heard of it, and so I put this out of my head for a while.
But my friend Div then one day told me that he always stropped, he stropped his chisels regularly while using them and also his plane irons got a fast tour on the stop once in a while, and since I have a big respect for the words of Div and know he normally do nothing without a reason, I decided to make some strops and give it a try, the worst that could happen was that I would waste some leather.

After having used stop for a good time now I can say; 'I will probably never go back', I love the fact that you during your work can make a fast stopping and have this razor sharp edge right back, and after i started stropping - paring with a chisel is a new world, I am completely in control and I can leave a perfect surface on the wood.

So any bad sides? No!
Is it magic? No, just a wonderful fast way to hone your chisel back to razor while you work. It cannot sharpen a chisel, just hone it when you slowly wear down the edge, when the edge is worn down you still need to go back to the stone.
In a way it feels like using a Japan knife, you just strop instead of breaking of the blades as you go, and then at some point you have used the full capacity and need to take the full tour.

Is it difficult? No!

So let's take a look at it:


Any piece of lumber!
Cut it to square.


Then cut it in the width you desire, a good all-round strop can be 206×68 mm (app. 2,7×8,1 inch) this is the size of a standard Japanese water stone.


Cut to length.
Now I think we cut enough!


I choose to give one of the strops a handle, simply because I have seen this on the web and are thinking it could be cool for knifes.


A rounding bit on the router.


Rounding the handle fast, and with noise…


Rounded rough.


Sanding and final shaping the handle.


So time for what it is really all about; the leather.
Cut some strips to fit your wood blocks.


A good quality leather belt can be used also as you can see.
The small one is a gift for a friend that is doing some linoleum prints and so she can now hone her knifes.
You want a quality that is relatively thick and hard, but not too stiff.
The smooth side up, do not listen to those who say differently.


For glue I use a contact adhesive (two side stick glue).
Papers on the table!
Yes mother…


Glue applied both sides and time to wait fifteen minutes.
It can be done with a good pipe of tobacco.


Notice the funny clamping on the right.


Glue up and keep under press.
The Festool table is brilliant for this.


I punch my leather mark into it.
Yes I'm a child!


And here we are four new straps.


I bought a honing compound from Veritas, but you can use many other compounds but this you can go searching about on the web, I will not go deeper than this here, since we are talking religion to some and sience to others.
So what you do is simply to apply the compound to the leather and as you see it will stay on the smooth surface.
On this strop I left the other side with only the leather strop, this because some say you get the best result if you give the iron a tour on this after, personally I see no difference and use therefore only the compound side now.
(And read that in a microscope you could see absolutely no difference also if there were no compound).


And this was my first test, it worked really well, even the steel are quite hard on these Barco's.


And here you see just weeks ago while I work, I always have the strop around now, a quick fresh up while you use your chisels and you will be amazed how much more smooth the work goes.
I also used the strops with great success when I was using my carving irons, and here again it is priceless.


So what do you do?
NEVER PUSH THE BLADE, then you will cut up the leather.
Hold the chisel down to the strop in the angle of the bevel, and pull it against you.
Repeat this a couple of times.


Then turn the chisel and lay it flat on the back and again pull it against you a couple of times.


Turn and give it on or two more.


Now the chisel is razor sharp again and ready to use, no mess, no time, no trouble.


I love this more and more, with a sharp chisel you will master any kind of detail.
So go make yourself a strop!

Hope this little blog can inspire others to try the stop, and perhaps not always listen to what others tell you as I did in the first hand,

Best thoughts,
Mads
Nice Information to be had !!!!!!!!!!!
Stropping (honing on a leather strop)

Stropping
thanks to Div.

Dear LJ's it's been a while since my last confession on LJ, this one is about stropping.
(It is actually an old set of photos that just never became a blog for a reason at that time).


For those who never heard of stropping, it is simply to hone the edge of your iron on a piece of leather with some compound or paste as the honing material, just as you have probably seen a barber do on his leather strap with the razor knife.

A long time ago I read about the term stopping and woodworking, I was really exited but when I told this to a Danish woodworker he just laughed at me and said that that he never heard of this, no one did this, and all his fellow woodworkers was laughing at this when they heard of it, and so I put this out of my head for a while.
But my friend Div then one day told me that he always stropped, he stropped his chisels regularly while using them and also his plane irons got a fast tour on the stop once in a while, and since I have a big respect for the words of Div and know he normally do nothing without a reason, I decided to make some strops and give it a try, the worst that could happen was that I would waste some leather.

After having used stop for a good time now I can say; 'I will probably never go back', I love the fact that you during your work can make a fast stopping and have this razor sharp edge right back, and after i started stropping - paring with a chisel is a new world, I am completely in control and I can leave a perfect surface on the wood.

So any bad sides? No!
Is it magic? No, just a wonderful fast way to hone your chisel back to razor while you work. It cannot sharpen a chisel, just hone it when you slowly wear down the edge, when the edge is worn down you still need to go back to the stone.
In a way it feels like using a Japan knife, you just strop instead of breaking of the blades as you go, and then at some point you have used the full capacity and need to take the full tour.

Is it difficult? No!

So let's take a look at it:


Any piece of lumber!
Cut it to square.


Then cut it in the width you desire, a good all-round strop can be 206×68 mm (app. 2,7×8,1 inch) this is the size of a standard Japanese water stone.


Cut to length.
Now I think we cut enough!


I choose to give one of the strops a handle, simply because I have seen this on the web and are thinking it could be cool for knifes.


A rounding bit on the router.


Rounding the handle fast, and with noise…


Rounded rough.


Sanding and final shaping the handle.


So time for what it is really all about; the leather.
Cut some strips to fit your wood blocks.


A good quality leather belt can be used also as you can see.
The small one is a gift for a friend that is doing some linoleum prints and so she can now hone her knifes.
You want a quality that is relatively thick and hard, but not too stiff.
The smooth side up, do not listen to those who say differently.


For glue I use a contact adhesive (two side stick glue).
Papers on the table!
Yes mother…


Glue applied both sides and time to wait fifteen minutes.
It can be done with a good pipe of tobacco.


Notice the funny clamping on the right.


Glue up and keep under press.
The Festool table is brilliant for this.


I punch my leather mark into it.
Yes I'm a child!


And here we are four new straps.


I bought a honing compound from Veritas, but you can use many other compounds but this you can go searching about on the web, I will not go deeper than this here, since we are talking religion to some and sience to others.
So what you do is simply to apply the compound to the leather and as you see it will stay on the smooth surface.
On this strop I left the other side with only the leather strop, this because some say you get the best result if you give the iron a tour on this after, personally I see no difference and use therefore only the compound side now.
(And read that in a microscope you could see absolutely no difference also if there were no compound).


And this was my first test, it worked really well, even the steel are quite hard on these Barco's.


And here you see just weeks ago while I work, I always have the strop around now, a quick fresh up while you use your chisels and you will be amazed how much more smooth the work goes.
I also used the strops with great success when I was using my carving irons, and here again it is priceless.


So what do you do?
NEVER PUSH THE BLADE, then you will cut up the leather.
Hold the chisel down to the strop in the angle of the bevel, and pull it against you.
Repeat this a couple of times.


Then turn the chisel and lay it flat on the back and again pull it against you a couple of times.


Turn and give it on or two more.


Now the chisel is razor sharp again and ready to use, no mess, no time, no trouble.


I love this more and more, with a sharp chisel you will master any kind of detail.
So go make yourself a strop!

Hope this little blog can inspire others to try the stop, and perhaps not always listen to what others tell you as I did in the first hand,

Best thoughts,
Mads
Charlesworth has a blog?! How did I miss that, thanks for the heads up Mads.
Stropping (honing on a leather strop)

Stropping
thanks to Div.

Dear LJ's it's been a while since my last confession on LJ, this one is about stropping.
(It is actually an old set of photos that just never became a blog for a reason at that time).


For those who never heard of stropping, it is simply to hone the edge of your iron on a piece of leather with some compound or paste as the honing material, just as you have probably seen a barber do on his leather strap with the razor knife.

A long time ago I read about the term stopping and woodworking, I was really exited but when I told this to a Danish woodworker he just laughed at me and said that that he never heard of this, no one did this, and all his fellow woodworkers was laughing at this when they heard of it, and so I put this out of my head for a while.
But my friend Div then one day told me that he always stropped, he stropped his chisels regularly while using them and also his plane irons got a fast tour on the stop once in a while, and since I have a big respect for the words of Div and know he normally do nothing without a reason, I decided to make some strops and give it a try, the worst that could happen was that I would waste some leather.

After having used stop for a good time now I can say; 'I will probably never go back', I love the fact that you during your work can make a fast stopping and have this razor sharp edge right back, and after i started stropping - paring with a chisel is a new world, I am completely in control and I can leave a perfect surface on the wood.

So any bad sides? No!
Is it magic? No, just a wonderful fast way to hone your chisel back to razor while you work. It cannot sharpen a chisel, just hone it when you slowly wear down the edge, when the edge is worn down you still need to go back to the stone.
In a way it feels like using a Japan knife, you just strop instead of breaking of the blades as you go, and then at some point you have used the full capacity and need to take the full tour.

Is it difficult? No!

So let's take a look at it:


Any piece of lumber!
Cut it to square.


Then cut it in the width you desire, a good all-round strop can be 206×68 mm (app. 2,7×8,1 inch) this is the size of a standard Japanese water stone.


Cut to length.
Now I think we cut enough!


I choose to give one of the strops a handle, simply because I have seen this on the web and are thinking it could be cool for knifes.


A rounding bit on the router.


Rounding the handle fast, and with noise…


Rounded rough.


Sanding and final shaping the handle.


So time for what it is really all about; the leather.
Cut some strips to fit your wood blocks.


A good quality leather belt can be used also as you can see.
The small one is a gift for a friend that is doing some linoleum prints and so she can now hone her knifes.
You want a quality that is relatively thick and hard, but not too stiff.
The smooth side up, do not listen to those who say differently.


For glue I use a contact adhesive (two side stick glue).
Papers on the table!
Yes mother…


Glue applied both sides and time to wait fifteen minutes.
It can be done with a good pipe of tobacco.


Notice the funny clamping on the right.


Glue up and keep under press.
The Festool table is brilliant for this.


I punch my leather mark into it.
Yes I'm a child!


And here we are four new straps.


I bought a honing compound from Veritas, but you can use many other compounds but this you can go searching about on the web, I will not go deeper than this here, since we are talking religion to some and sience to others.
So what you do is simply to apply the compound to the leather and as you see it will stay on the smooth surface.
On this strop I left the other side with only the leather strop, this because some say you get the best result if you give the iron a tour on this after, personally I see no difference and use therefore only the compound side now.
(And read that in a microscope you could see absolutely no difference also if there were no compound).


And this was my first test, it worked really well, even the steel are quite hard on these Barco's.


And here you see just weeks ago while I work, I always have the strop around now, a quick fresh up while you use your chisels and you will be amazed how much more smooth the work goes.
I also used the strops with great success when I was using my carving irons, and here again it is priceless.


So what do you do?
NEVER PUSH THE BLADE, then you will cut up the leather.
Hold the chisel down to the strop in the angle of the bevel, and pull it against you.
Repeat this a couple of times.


Then turn the chisel and lay it flat on the back and again pull it against you a couple of times.


Turn and give it on or two more.


Now the chisel is razor sharp again and ready to use, no mess, no time, no trouble.


I love this more and more, with a sharp chisel you will master any kind of detail.
So go make yourself a strop!

Hope this little blog can inspire others to try the stop, and perhaps not always listen to what others tell you as I did in the first hand,

Best thoughts,
Mads
;-)
Stropping (honing on a leather strop)

Stropping
thanks to Div.

Dear LJ's it's been a while since my last confession on LJ, this one is about stropping.
(It is actually an old set of photos that just never became a blog for a reason at that time).


For those who never heard of stropping, it is simply to hone the edge of your iron on a piece of leather with some compound or paste as the honing material, just as you have probably seen a barber do on his leather strap with the razor knife.

A long time ago I read about the term stopping and woodworking, I was really exited but when I told this to a Danish woodworker he just laughed at me and said that that he never heard of this, no one did this, and all his fellow woodworkers was laughing at this when they heard of it, and so I put this out of my head for a while.
But my friend Div then one day told me that he always stropped, he stropped his chisels regularly while using them and also his plane irons got a fast tour on the stop once in a while, and since I have a big respect for the words of Div and know he normally do nothing without a reason, I decided to make some strops and give it a try, the worst that could happen was that I would waste some leather.

After having used stop for a good time now I can say; 'I will probably never go back', I love the fact that you during your work can make a fast stopping and have this razor sharp edge right back, and after i started stropping - paring with a chisel is a new world, I am completely in control and I can leave a perfect surface on the wood.

So any bad sides? No!
Is it magic? No, just a wonderful fast way to hone your chisel back to razor while you work. It cannot sharpen a chisel, just hone it when you slowly wear down the edge, when the edge is worn down you still need to go back to the stone.
In a way it feels like using a Japan knife, you just strop instead of breaking of the blades as you go, and then at some point you have used the full capacity and need to take the full tour.

Is it difficult? No!

So let's take a look at it:


Any piece of lumber!
Cut it to square.


Then cut it in the width you desire, a good all-round strop can be 206×68 mm (app. 2,7×8,1 inch) this is the size of a standard Japanese water stone.


Cut to length.
Now I think we cut enough!


I choose to give one of the strops a handle, simply because I have seen this on the web and are thinking it could be cool for knifes.


A rounding bit on the router.


Rounding the handle fast, and with noise…


Rounded rough.


Sanding and final shaping the handle.


So time for what it is really all about; the leather.
Cut some strips to fit your wood blocks.


A good quality leather belt can be used also as you can see.
The small one is a gift for a friend that is doing some linoleum prints and so she can now hone her knifes.
You want a quality that is relatively thick and hard, but not too stiff.
The smooth side up, do not listen to those who say differently.


For glue I use a contact adhesive (two side stick glue).
Papers on the table!
Yes mother…


Glue applied both sides and time to wait fifteen minutes.
It can be done with a good pipe of tobacco.


Notice the funny clamping on the right.


Glue up and keep under press.
The Festool table is brilliant for this.


I punch my leather mark into it.
Yes I'm a child!


And here we are four new straps.


I bought a honing compound from Veritas, but you can use many other compounds but this you can go searching about on the web, I will not go deeper than this here, since we are talking religion to some and sience to others.
So what you do is simply to apply the compound to the leather and as you see it will stay on the smooth surface.
On this strop I left the other side with only the leather strop, this because some say you get the best result if you give the iron a tour on this after, personally I see no difference and use therefore only the compound side now.
(And read that in a microscope you could see absolutely no difference also if there were no compound).


And this was my first test, it worked really well, even the steel are quite hard on these Barco's.


And here you see just weeks ago while I work, I always have the strop around now, a quick fresh up while you use your chisels and you will be amazed how much more smooth the work goes.
I also used the strops with great success when I was using my carving irons, and here again it is priceless.


So what do you do?
NEVER PUSH THE BLADE, then you will cut up the leather.
Hold the chisel down to the strop in the angle of the bevel, and pull it against you.
Repeat this a couple of times.


Then turn the chisel and lay it flat on the back and again pull it against you a couple of times.


Turn and give it on or two more.


Now the chisel is razor sharp again and ready to use, no mess, no time, no trouble.


I love this more and more, with a sharp chisel you will master any kind of detail.
So go make yourself a strop!

Hope this little blog can inspire others to try the stop, and perhaps not always listen to what others tell you as I did in the first hand,

Best thoughts,
Mads
My two cents, I believe Mads, referred to using a Microscope, while evaluating his strops. You know how SOMETIMES after final hone, it cuts like crazy, & other times only soso. The strop makes the difference!

I use both hard side & soft side strops, on blades after finish hone with 6000grit W/S. I strop lathe tools(both wood & metal) after grinding and honing. I don't believe in grinding wood chisel and using the burr to cut, then grind again for new burr! Stropping the lathe chisel is sharper & faster, IMHO sharper & less waste of good steel.
I find the softside (inside), keeps the strop from sliding around in use!
18
Old Danish honing strop and making a copy...

Old Danish honing strop
and making a copy…

My dear friend Flemming came by the shop as he often do, this time I had invited him for a cafe latte, since I bought my self a new Rancilio Silvia espresso machine (just like the old one), the old one was fourteen years now and needed repair. In fact I just had a friend of a friend picking up the old one few minutes ago, I saw on Facebook that he needed one and had no money, like this life goes in wonderful circles (his friend will repair it for him).

Back to the story MaFe!
Flemming often bring stuff, today to show what he bought and ask advice. He came with a beautiful old Danish strop, that he had bought with some woodworking stuff.


Here it is.
Wonderful old leather on wood strop, plenty of wear and soul.


The strop have had it's days, now stiff and loose.


So before Flemming left, I made him a new strop and mounted it for him.
The leather has smooth side up as the original (Andy).
So he went home with a smile.


As often old tools are not made from fancy materials, just a plane piece of wood, knots and all.


After Flemming left, I went to the tablesaw.
Cut a old piece of wood from a trashed furniture.
Medium hardwood, with visible sap.


I made a quick sketch of the old strops shape when it was apart.
So the measures and shape were transferred to the block of wood.


As the lazy anti gallot person I am, I use a motor powered saw.
Just quick rough shaping on the bandsaw. ;-)
After that some sanding.


I decide to give it a wee ornamentation, even the old one have none and I usually like it simple.
Hmmm, I must have smoked to little tobacco, perhaps just in a romantic mood.


Then dye, oil, polish, wax.
Ok MaFe, I guess you are a little over the top today!


Cutting a leather strip for the strop.


Predrilling a few holes.


Then three copper nails to hold the strop in place.


Rounding them a wee, while I hammer them in.


At the other end, I pull the strop tight with a pliers, before putting the nails in place.


That's it, the strop is a reality.


Fine size and nice to hold.


Time to load the strop.
Since the leather is quite 'shiny', I take a blade and rough it a wee by, just running the blade vertically down the leather, don't cut, just a careful roughing. (Try on another piece first).
Then time to load it, this time with Flexcut Gold Polishing Compound, this because our friend Druid here on LJ wrote me that I should try this out, so I bought some online and it arrived today, perfect timing.
Just rub it in, plenty, don't be cheap, the stick will last forever.


Finally the strop is at work, honing a knife and testing it out.
I agree, this is really an effective compound, for me it seems to be more effective and make a better polish to that mirror we like, when I have used it for a while I will get back on the subject (if I remember it).

Hope it could inspire or keep you sharp.

Best thoughts,
Mads
See less See more
Old Danish honing strop and making a copy...

Old Danish honing strop
and making a copy…

My dear friend Flemming came by the shop as he often do, this time I had invited him for a cafe latte, since I bought my self a new Rancilio Silvia espresso machine (just like the old one), the old one was fourteen years now and needed repair. In fact I just had a friend of a friend picking up the old one few minutes ago, I saw on Facebook that he needed one and had no money, like this life goes in wonderful circles (his friend will repair it for him).

Back to the story MaFe!
Flemming often bring stuff, today to show what he bought and ask advice. He came with a beautiful old Danish strop, that he had bought with some woodworking stuff.


Here it is.
Wonderful old leather on wood strop, plenty of wear and soul.


The strop have had it's days, now stiff and loose.


So before Flemming left, I made him a new strop and mounted it for him.
The leather has smooth side up as the original (Andy).
So he went home with a smile.


As often old tools are not made from fancy materials, just a plane piece of wood, knots and all.


After Flemming left, I went to the tablesaw.
Cut a old piece of wood from a trashed furniture.
Medium hardwood, with visible sap.


I made a quick sketch of the old strops shape when it was apart.
So the measures and shape were transferred to the block of wood.


As the lazy anti gallot person I am, I use a motor powered saw.
Just quick rough shaping on the bandsaw. ;-)
After that some sanding.


I decide to give it a wee ornamentation, even the old one have none and I usually like it simple.
Hmmm, I must have smoked to little tobacco, perhaps just in a romantic mood.


Then dye, oil, polish, wax.
Ok MaFe, I guess you are a little over the top today!


Cutting a leather strip for the strop.


Predrilling a few holes.


Then three copper nails to hold the strop in place.


Rounding them a wee, while I hammer them in.


At the other end, I pull the strop tight with a pliers, before putting the nails in place.


That's it, the strop is a reality.


Fine size and nice to hold.


Time to load the strop.
Since the leather is quite 'shiny', I take a blade and rough it a wee by, just running the blade vertically down the leather, don't cut, just a careful roughing. (Try on another piece first).
Then time to load it, this time with Flexcut Gold Polishing Compound, this because our friend Druid here on LJ wrote me that I should try this out, so I bought some online and it arrived today, perfect timing.
Just rub it in, plenty, don't be cheap, the stick will last forever.


Finally the strop is at work, honing a knife and testing it out.
I agree, this is really an effective compound, for me it seems to be more effective and make a better polish to that mirror we like, when I have used it for a while I will get back on the subject (if I remember it).

Hope it could inspire or keep you sharp.

Best thoughts,
Mads
Oh no Mads! I can feel a rough/smooth side up debate approaching. LOL.

Lovely little project and I like the decoration on the sides too. Is there any advantage to suspending the leather over thin air rather than sticking it to wood? Was it designed for razors and knives and not so much for chisels?
Old Danish honing strop and making a copy...

Old Danish honing strop
and making a copy…

My dear friend Flemming came by the shop as he often do, this time I had invited him for a cafe latte, since I bought my self a new Rancilio Silvia espresso machine (just like the old one), the old one was fourteen years now and needed repair. In fact I just had a friend of a friend picking up the old one few minutes ago, I saw on Facebook that he needed one and had no money, like this life goes in wonderful circles (his friend will repair it for him).

Back to the story MaFe!
Flemming often bring stuff, today to show what he bought and ask advice. He came with a beautiful old Danish strop, that he had bought with some woodworking stuff.


Here it is.
Wonderful old leather on wood strop, plenty of wear and soul.


The strop have had it's days, now stiff and loose.


So before Flemming left, I made him a new strop and mounted it for him.
The leather has smooth side up as the original (Andy).
So he went home with a smile.


As often old tools are not made from fancy materials, just a plane piece of wood, knots and all.


After Flemming left, I went to the tablesaw.
Cut a old piece of wood from a trashed furniture.
Medium hardwood, with visible sap.


I made a quick sketch of the old strops shape when it was apart.
So the measures and shape were transferred to the block of wood.


As the lazy anti gallot person I am, I use a motor powered saw.
Just quick rough shaping on the bandsaw. ;-)
After that some sanding.


I decide to give it a wee ornamentation, even the old one have none and I usually like it simple.
Hmmm, I must have smoked to little tobacco, perhaps just in a romantic mood.


Then dye, oil, polish, wax.
Ok MaFe, I guess you are a little over the top today!


Cutting a leather strip for the strop.


Predrilling a few holes.


Then three copper nails to hold the strop in place.


Rounding them a wee, while I hammer them in.


At the other end, I pull the strop tight with a pliers, before putting the nails in place.


That's it, the strop is a reality.


Fine size and nice to hold.


Time to load the strop.
Since the leather is quite 'shiny', I take a blade and rough it a wee by, just running the blade vertically down the leather, don't cut, just a careful roughing. (Try on another piece first).
Then time to load it, this time with Flexcut Gold Polishing Compound, this because our friend Druid here on LJ wrote me that I should try this out, so I bought some online and it arrived today, perfect timing.
Just rub it in, plenty, don't be cheap, the stick will last forever.


Finally the strop is at work, honing a knife and testing it out.
I agree, this is really an effective compound, for me it seems to be more effective and make a better polish to that mirror we like, when I have used it for a while I will get back on the subject (if I remember it).

Hope it could inspire or keep you sharp.

Best thoughts,
Mads
Nice
Old Danish honing strop and making a copy...

Old Danish honing strop
and making a copy…

My dear friend Flemming came by the shop as he often do, this time I had invited him for a cafe latte, since I bought my self a new Rancilio Silvia espresso machine (just like the old one), the old one was fourteen years now and needed repair. In fact I just had a friend of a friend picking up the old one few minutes ago, I saw on Facebook that he needed one and had no money, like this life goes in wonderful circles (his friend will repair it for him).

Back to the story MaFe!
Flemming often bring stuff, today to show what he bought and ask advice. He came with a beautiful old Danish strop, that he had bought with some woodworking stuff.


Here it is.
Wonderful old leather on wood strop, plenty of wear and soul.


The strop have had it's days, now stiff and loose.


So before Flemming left, I made him a new strop and mounted it for him.
The leather has smooth side up as the original (Andy).
So he went home with a smile.


As often old tools are not made from fancy materials, just a plane piece of wood, knots and all.


After Flemming left, I went to the tablesaw.
Cut a old piece of wood from a trashed furniture.
Medium hardwood, with visible sap.


I made a quick sketch of the old strops shape when it was apart.
So the measures and shape were transferred to the block of wood.


As the lazy anti gallot person I am, I use a motor powered saw.
Just quick rough shaping on the bandsaw. ;-)
After that some sanding.


I decide to give it a wee ornamentation, even the old one have none and I usually like it simple.
Hmmm, I must have smoked to little tobacco, perhaps just in a romantic mood.


Then dye, oil, polish, wax.
Ok MaFe, I guess you are a little over the top today!


Cutting a leather strip for the strop.


Predrilling a few holes.


Then three copper nails to hold the strop in place.


Rounding them a wee, while I hammer them in.


At the other end, I pull the strop tight with a pliers, before putting the nails in place.


That's it, the strop is a reality.


Fine size and nice to hold.


Time to load the strop.
Since the leather is quite 'shiny', I take a blade and rough it a wee by, just running the blade vertically down the leather, don't cut, just a careful roughing. (Try on another piece first).
Then time to load it, this time with Flexcut Gold Polishing Compound, this because our friend Druid here on LJ wrote me that I should try this out, so I bought some online and it arrived today, perfect timing.
Just rub it in, plenty, don't be cheap, the stick will last forever.


Finally the strop is at work, honing a knife and testing it out.
I agree, this is really an effective compound, for me it seems to be more effective and make a better polish to that mirror we like, when I have used it for a while I will get back on the subject (if I remember it).

Hope it could inspire or keep you sharp.

Best thoughts,
Mads
Laugh Andy thanks, I have no comments on that. (I like the smooth side up).
I like the hanging or suspended strop for knifes, I will always used a flat base version for chisels and plane irons.
But you can use what ever, just as long as you keep the strop tight, otherwise it will round the sharp edge you just made.

Fill your bowl to the brim and it will spill.
Keep sharpening your knife and it will blunt.
Lao Tzu

Alexey, thanks.
Smiles,
Mads
241 - 260 of 270 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top