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Hello all

I have a quick question about sharpening.
When I sharpen my plane blades and I try to set the secondary bevel, for the life of me I can't get it square across.
Its always canted to the same side. Almost as if I am putting a lot of pressure to my right. But I am fairly certain I am staying even.
So much so that I oftain must rehone the entire blade, which obviously is frustrating

I am using the lee valley veratis guide.

Thanks
Matt
 

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Are you using a jig? I m using the Veritas MKII jig and found out that if I m tightening one screw more than the other, I have this problem. Spent many evening of frustration before realizing that…

- djang000
+1 on this advice. Make sure you tighten both thumbscrews equally.
 

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Sounds like when you tighten it up it goes clockwise

and the left side goes down and the right side goes up and

makes a canted secondary bevel.

Try and make a stop on your workbench and tighten it to the
stop & check for square.

I always check for square as I had the same results as mentioned above.
 

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I used that jig for a year and then decided I had enough. I really did not like it and I tried all the tricks in the book to get it to work right. I now sharpen free hand and like it a lot.

If you like the MKII other than this issue, I would suggest using it to create the primary bevel and then using one of the cheap jigs with center roller to create the microbevel. These cheap jigs pretty much ensure that your microbevel will follow the primary bevel as far as squareness to the side of the blade. You could even freehand it.

I like the cheapo jig way more than that MKII. They are only like $10. If they are good enough for Lie Nielsen, they are good enough for me.

I really didn't like that MKII…
 

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But also consider that a secondary bevel is not a requirement. When they came into fashion, it was really just a shorthand sharpening to not have to sharpen the whole bevel like the "ruler trick". It really doesn't do anything. Especially on a bevel down plane iron.
 

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For using a jig to sharpen microbevels are the best way. It dramatically reduces the amount of time and abrasive wear. The microbevel doesn't have to be perfectly straight. With the MKII you are able to, and should, create a separate thin microbevel with each finer abrasive step. As long as the microbevels align with each other, you are getting the benefit of less material removal required at each abrasive step. A slight angle of the 1st microbevel isn't an issue and the plane skew lever will adjust for a full width cut. It doesn't take very much pressure difference across the blade to create an out of square microbevel.
 
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