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Scarf Log Table July

7791 Views 7 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  daltxguy
Scarf Joint Log Table

I was able to grab a log off the side of the road that was about 3 feet long and 13 inches across. I wanted to make something out of it. I had seen a scarf joint bench made by a person who had taken the Timberframing course at The College of the Rockies a session or two before me. I wanted to try it. So here is the log.


I first started by peeling all the bark off and then set about getting end lines on the log. I knew I wanted the table to taper from the middle out to both sides, so I drew those lines in. Using the Logosol Timberjig, a ripping chain, and my underpowered Poulon chainsaw, I ripped the log.


I highly recommend buying the guide rails, or even the full mill set-up. You can probably see I am off on the lines I wanted cut.

More pictures:




From there I began the layout and cutting of the scarf joint on one piece. It did take a few layout attempts to get the size and dimension I wanted, but I like what I have now. It took plenty of work. I am sure many will have tips on ways to draw a straight line around a round log and the like, but I "went to war with the army I had", to quote Donny Rumsfeld.

All I used was a Dewalt Circular saw, a Stanley Hand saw, a Japanese pull saw and my Chisel and mallet from my former job as a timberframer.

Here is the first piece cut. Ain't it DAMN SEXY???


I have since cut the second piece fitted them together. Pictures will be forth coming soon. The joint on the visible side looked nice. Then I looked at the bottom. Holy Grand Canyon Batman! So I have some work to do to fix it and make it so the pieces touch in more than 3 points. Work continues!
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Scarf Joint Log Table

I was able to grab a log off the side of the road that was about 3 feet long and 13 inches across. I wanted to make something out of it. I had seen a scarf joint bench made by a person who had taken the Timberframing course at The College of the Rockies a session or two before me. I wanted to try it. So here is the log.


I first started by peeling all the bark off and then set about getting end lines on the log. I knew I wanted the table to taper from the middle out to both sides, so I drew those lines in. Using the Logosol Timberjig, a ripping chain, and my underpowered Poulon chainsaw, I ripped the log.


I highly recommend buying the guide rails, or even the full mill set-up. You can probably see I am off on the lines I wanted cut.

More pictures:




From there I began the layout and cutting of the scarf joint on one piece. It did take a few layout attempts to get the size and dimension I wanted, but I like what I have now. It took plenty of work. I am sure many will have tips on ways to draw a straight line around a round log and the like, but I "went to war with the army I had", to quote Donny Rumsfeld.

All I used was a Dewalt Circular saw, a Stanley Hand saw, a Japanese pull saw and my Chisel and mallet from my former job as a timberframer.

Here is the first piece cut. Ain't it DAMN SEXY???


I have since cut the second piece fitted them together. Pictures will be forth coming soon. The joint on the visible side looked nice. Then I looked at the bottom. Holy Grand Canyon Batman! So I have some work to do to fix it and make it so the pieces touch in more than 3 points. Work continues!
Very interesting, thanks for the post.
Scarf Joint Log Table

I was able to grab a log off the side of the road that was about 3 feet long and 13 inches across. I wanted to make something out of it. I had seen a scarf joint bench made by a person who had taken the Timberframing course at The College of the Rockies a session or two before me. I wanted to try it. So here is the log.


I first started by peeling all the bark off and then set about getting end lines on the log. I knew I wanted the table to taper from the middle out to both sides, so I drew those lines in. Using the Logosol Timberjig, a ripping chain, and my underpowered Poulon chainsaw, I ripped the log.


I highly recommend buying the guide rails, or even the full mill set-up. You can probably see I am off on the lines I wanted cut.

More pictures:




From there I began the layout and cutting of the scarf joint on one piece. It did take a few layout attempts to get the size and dimension I wanted, but I like what I have now. It took plenty of work. I am sure many will have tips on ways to draw a straight line around a round log and the like, but I "went to war with the army I had", to quote Donny Rumsfeld.

All I used was a Dewalt Circular saw, a Stanley Hand saw, a Japanese pull saw and my Chisel and mallet from my former job as a timberframer.

Here is the first piece cut. Ain't it DAMN SEXY???


I have since cut the second piece fitted them together. Pictures will be forth coming soon. The joint on the visible side looked nice. Then I looked at the bottom. Holy Grand Canyon Batman! So I have some work to do to fix it and make it so the pieces touch in more than 3 points. Work continues!
i use a sawzall to fit these joints
nice concept .
keep us posted
Scarf Joint Log Table

I was able to grab a log off the side of the road that was about 3 feet long and 13 inches across. I wanted to make something out of it. I had seen a scarf joint bench made by a person who had taken the Timberframing course at The College of the Rockies a session or two before me. I wanted to try it. So here is the log.


I first started by peeling all the bark off and then set about getting end lines on the log. I knew I wanted the table to taper from the middle out to both sides, so I drew those lines in. Using the Logosol Timberjig, a ripping chain, and my underpowered Poulon chainsaw, I ripped the log.


I highly recommend buying the guide rails, or even the full mill set-up. You can probably see I am off on the lines I wanted cut.

More pictures:




From there I began the layout and cutting of the scarf joint on one piece. It did take a few layout attempts to get the size and dimension I wanted, but I like what I have now. It took plenty of work. I am sure many will have tips on ways to draw a straight line around a round log and the like, but I "went to war with the army I had", to quote Donny Rumsfeld.

All I used was a Dewalt Circular saw, a Stanley Hand saw, a Japanese pull saw and my Chisel and mallet from my former job as a timberframer.

Here is the first piece cut. Ain't it DAMN SEXY???


I have since cut the second piece fitted them together. Pictures will be forth coming soon. The joint on the visible side looked nice. Then I looked at the bottom. Holy Grand Canyon Batman! So I have some work to do to fix it and make it so the pieces touch in more than 3 points. Work continues!
Very nice so far. Will be curious to see the rest to see how it goes together. To be honest, I'm not sure what i am looking yet at in the last picture.
Never mnd the grand canyon, post a pic anyway so we can see how it supposed to go together.
I suppose like any hand cut joint, practice brings mastery.
My log building teachers would have used chainsaws for the bulk of the work and hand chisels to finish. Ok, they are not purists but they are fast.
Scarf Joint Log Table

I was able to grab a log off the side of the road that was about 3 feet long and 13 inches across. I wanted to make something out of it. I had seen a scarf joint bench made by a person who had taken the Timberframing course at The College of the Rockies a session or two before me. I wanted to try it. So here is the log.


I first started by peeling all the bark off and then set about getting end lines on the log. I knew I wanted the table to taper from the middle out to both sides, so I drew those lines in. Using the Logosol Timberjig, a ripping chain, and my underpowered Poulon chainsaw, I ripped the log.


I highly recommend buying the guide rails, or even the full mill set-up. You can probably see I am off on the lines I wanted cut.

More pictures:




From there I began the layout and cutting of the scarf joint on one piece. It did take a few layout attempts to get the size and dimension I wanted, but I like what I have now. It took plenty of work. I am sure many will have tips on ways to draw a straight line around a round log and the like, but I "went to war with the army I had", to quote Donny Rumsfeld.

All I used was a Dewalt Circular saw, a Stanley Hand saw, a Japanese pull saw and my Chisel and mallet from my former job as a timberframer.

Here is the first piece cut. Ain't it DAMN SEXY???


I have since cut the second piece fitted them together. Pictures will be forth coming soon. The joint on the visible side looked nice. Then I looked at the bottom. Holy Grand Canyon Batman! So I have some work to do to fix it and make it so the pieces touch in more than 3 points. Work continues!
Youve got a fair amounr of work ahead of you .Look forward to an update.
The table continues

So here is the 2 cut out scarf pieces fitted together.

SO the last image of the past post was just one side of the scarf joint. The hole in the middle is for a set of wedges to be put in to keep the joint tight. Any scarf joints created for building today will have plenty of lags in it. Being a table I will use 3/4 or 1 inch pegs to serve as an additional way to keep it tight.

Some comments suggested using a sawzall or a chainsaw to hog more material out. I dont' have a sawzall and my precision with the chiansaw isn't what I'd like. Not that the hand saw worked. I may try your suggestions yet.

Here is the underside. I should have shot it straight on so you could see the gap. The table is on it's side.


Oh and that reminds me, a scarf joint would be one resting on the other, not side by side like mine. My choice to do it this way is for artistic purposes. Here is a link to a page about scarf joints
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The table continues

So here is the 2 cut out scarf pieces fitted together.

SO the last image of the past post was just one side of the scarf joint. The hole in the middle is for a set of wedges to be put in to keep the joint tight. Any scarf joints created for building today will have plenty of lags in it. Being a table I will use 3/4 or 1 inch pegs to serve as an additional way to keep it tight.

Some comments suggested using a sawzall or a chainsaw to hog more material out. I dont' have a sawzall and my precision with the chiansaw isn't what I'd like. Not that the hand saw worked. I may try your suggestions yet.

Here is the underside. I should have shot it straight on so you could see the gap. The table is on it's side.


Oh and that reminds me, a scarf joint would be one resting on the other, not side by side like mine. My choice to do it this way is for artistic purposes. Here is a link to a page about scarf joints
nice work done like a true timber framer great job
The table continues

So here is the 2 cut out scarf pieces fitted together.

SO the last image of the past post was just one side of the scarf joint. The hole in the middle is for a set of wedges to be put in to keep the joint tight. Any scarf joints created for building today will have plenty of lags in it. Being a table I will use 3/4 or 1 inch pegs to serve as an additional way to keep it tight.

Some comments suggested using a sawzall or a chainsaw to hog more material out. I dont' have a sawzall and my precision with the chiansaw isn't what I'd like. Not that the hand saw worked. I may try your suggestions yet.

Here is the underside. I should have shot it straight on so you could see the gap. The table is on it's side.


Oh and that reminds me, a scarf joint would be one resting on the other, not side by side like mine. My choice to do it this way is for artistic purposes. Here is a link to a page about scarf joints
ah, now I understand. Interesting reference for scarf joints. So never mind the gap, what happens on the backside of the log ( or bottom as it were), as obviously they don't match up exactly? Do you just leave it like that or pare it down with a drawknife?
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