I have a 10' x 16' shop and bought the Saw Stop Jobsite saw. I like the saw and needed to be able to not only store folded up but be able to go outside for longer rips. I highly recommend it! The funny thing is that I have moved to mostly hand tool work including hand saws. I haven't unfolded it in six months now. I also had a 6" jointer but after learning how to square up stock with a hand plane I sold it to free up space. A 14" band saw should be a good fit but you may want to get the mobile base with it.
SawStop Jobsite saw?
My shop space has been seriously downsized. I've left a shop with all industrial equipment and now need to set up with more "hobby style" machines. Does anyone have experience with the jobsite SawStop? My space will limit board length to 5' maximum.
Also, any recommendations for a 6" floor jointer? A 14" bandsaw with brake? Tabletop or floor drill press?
Thanks
Also, any recommendations for a 6" floor jointer? A 14" bandsaw with brake? Tabletop or floor drill press?
Thanks
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
My "machine room" is about 12.5' x 14', with a couple door openings to really stretch out
I've had one for a few years. Works great, but I bought a 3HP PCS, as I now have room.
You might consider a track saw. Forget the crap about them being only for breaking down sheet goods. With the right accessories like parallel guides and a crosscut guide, you can do any cut with one, and you don't need the space for infeed and outfeed. Just enough room for the board itself.
I'm building a vanity for the master bath and haven't fired up my table saw once. All of the face frame pieces as well as the frame and panel doors were cut with my Festool TSC 55 K.
I'm building a vanity for the master bath and haven't fired up my table saw once. All of the face frame pieces as well as the frame and panel doors were cut with my Festool TSC 55 K.
Thanks Rich…I'll have to take a closer look at track saws. But is the max depth of cut comparable?
I'm making the assumption that "hobby style" machines in your new shop have to fit into a budget-let me know if I'm wrong.
A couple of questions for you about your decision process-
1) Is a Sawstop an absolute, or would you consider an alternative high quality jobsite saw?
2) Why do you think you need a bandsaw with a brake?
3) Are you currently drilling pieces that need the height of a floor mounted drill press?
Regarding the Sawstop question-lots of jocks here have them (floor and jobsite models) and like them. But at the current price for the Sawstop jobsite saw you'd be spending 2.5x what a comparable quality jobsite saw costs. I have a DeWalt jobsite saw with folding stand that I've used extensively-well made, and with a better blade (e.g. Freud) will do what more expensive floor standing cabinet saws will do (minus horsepower of course). The Dewalt is $530 on Amazon vs. $1500 for the Sawstop.
Gerry
A couple of questions for you about your decision process-
1) Is a Sawstop an absolute, or would you consider an alternative high quality jobsite saw?
2) Why do you think you need a bandsaw with a brake?
3) Are you currently drilling pieces that need the height of a floor mounted drill press?
Regarding the Sawstop question-lots of jocks here have them (floor and jobsite models) and like them. But at the current price for the Sawstop jobsite saw you'd be spending 2.5x what a comparable quality jobsite saw costs. I have a DeWalt jobsite saw with folding stand that I've used extensively-well made, and with a better blade (e.g. Freud) will do what more expensive floor standing cabinet saws will do (minus horsepower of course). The Dewalt is $530 on Amazon vs. $1500 for the Sawstop.
Gerry
Make an 8' and a 4'. One side rip edge for blade side of circ saw, other for fence side. No where near as sexy as a track saw but alot cheaper. Set ups the same except need 2 squeeze clamps.
Negative: Doesn't click into place and you actually have to pay attention to what you're doing.
Call me gloomy Gus, but I don't get paying a premium for the sawstop either.
![Wood Automotive design Flooring Tool Saw]()
Negative: Doesn't click into place and you actually have to pay attention to what you're doing.
Call me gloomy Gus, but I don't get paying a premium for the sawstop either.
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No it's not. My saw maxes out at about 1 7/8". I made two stops that slide in the kerf and allow me to flip the board over, align the track, and do another 1 7/8" cut for a total of 3 3/4". It's accurate enough to ensure the cut is all the way through, but it still needs a pass on the jointer.Thanks Rich…I'll have to take a closer look at track saws. But is the max depth of cut comparable?
- Suzkahn
However, a job site saw is likely to be limited to less than the full depth of cut due to lower horsepower.
Perhaps it would be helpful if you could share the type of work you plan to do.
Apologies for not knowing how to respond individually…
I would never choose not to have a SawStop again. I have known personally five people who have lost digits. Yes, accidents & kickbacks are not fully eliminated with a SS, but after 20 years working with tools I'll take whatever insurance I can get.
I've been looking at the Kreg ACS as a possible alternative…but again, space is really my issue and setting up and breaking down the table might be a pain.
Regarding a bandsaw brake, I guess it's a bit of a luxury, but I'm often cutting a variety of configurations at a time, using multiple jigs, changing height of cut, using or not using the fence, etc…and I don't like my hands near a moving blade when I'm doing it.
Drill press…I've never had a bench top, quill travel will be limited. I've used a Powermatic with 6" travel forever. But with a bench top I could use the space under more efficiently.
I'm not settled on what kind of work to focus on now. I've done antique repro furniture, and one-off pieces, a lot of functional and sculptural woodturning.
Thanks for everyone's valuable insights-keep it coming!
I would never choose not to have a SawStop again. I have known personally five people who have lost digits. Yes, accidents & kickbacks are not fully eliminated with a SS, but after 20 years working with tools I'll take whatever insurance I can get.
I've been looking at the Kreg ACS as a possible alternative…but again, space is really my issue and setting up and breaking down the table might be a pain.
Regarding a bandsaw brake, I guess it's a bit of a luxury, but I'm often cutting a variety of configurations at a time, using multiple jigs, changing height of cut, using or not using the fence, etc…and I don't like my hands near a moving blade when I'm doing it.
Drill press…I've never had a bench top, quill travel will be limited. I've used a Powermatic with 6" travel forever. But with a bench top I could use the space under more efficiently.
I'm not settled on what kind of work to focus on now. I've done antique repro furniture, and one-off pieces, a lot of functional and sculptural woodturning.
Thanks for everyone's valuable insights-keep it coming!
I have the SawStop Jobsite saw, a Festool track saw, and a DeWalt track saw. I also have the Festool MFT/3 table. They all have their strong and weak points. The jobsite saw is easy to set-up, has onboard storage, can accept a dado with the correct cartridge and plate, gives me a sense of security, is quick for ripping pieces particularly when multiple pieces needed the same size, and when used in conjunction with my custom made crosscut sled is very accurate a crosscutting small pieces. I would purchase again (downsized from a cabinet saw to this). The track saws are great at most all cuts except for small pieces, can't do dado's, but have far better dust collection. You have to think down the road when comparing track saws and table saws. What are you going to use it for? How important are cutting exact angles on small pieces or cutting multiple pieces the same size?
I sold my floor standing Jet drill press and replaced it with the Jet benchtop model a few years ago. It has a digital read out but it's extremely heavy. It's the least used machine in my shop.
No opinions on jointer (have 90's Ridgid) or bandsaw with brake. I have the Laguna 14/Twelve but it doesn't have a brake.
I sold my floor standing Jet drill press and replaced it with the Jet benchtop model a few years ago. It has a digital read out but it's extremely heavy. It's the least used machine in my shop.
No opinions on jointer (have 90's Ridgid) or bandsaw with brake. I have the Laguna 14/Twelve but it doesn't have a brake.
Thanks for your input, Northwoodsman. Like you, I'll probably need a track system of some sort & table saw. I do a wide variety of projects…but they will all have to be a bit smaller now…even though some will begin with big pieces of wood!
If I were starting over I would give serious thought to a "table saw -less shop" an MFT set up, especially if using a lot of sheet goods. With crosscut fixture you can eliminate miter saw. MFT is a popular set up in England and Europe, check Peter Millard he has a ton of info on setting up a system
Dado, rabbets, grooves, mortises can be done with a router.
Track saws are excellent for straight line ripping boards. I don't know about a jointer quality edge, something to look at.
Table saw - depends on what you're doing. Jobsite saws, even a SS, have their limitations. If it's in the budget for $4-500 more I would definitely go for the 30" contractor saw.
Have you considered a planer?
Jointer - personally I wouldn't go less than 8". At the current price point, in lieu of alternatives, I would give some thought. Edge jointing I think you can get by without it (track saw/hand plane). Face jointing there are ways around using plane jig. They do take up some space.
Bandsaw - no experience with Laguna but I have a friend who loves his. I don't see a brake as a big deal, but I've also never had a saw with one.
When you get the tracksaw I recommend you invest in a high quality HEPA dust extractor. You will be happy you did, and you won't have a shop vac screaming in the back round.
Dado, rabbets, grooves, mortises can be done with a router.
Track saws are excellent for straight line ripping boards. I don't know about a jointer quality edge, something to look at.
Table saw - depends on what you're doing. Jobsite saws, even a SS, have their limitations. If it's in the budget for $4-500 more I would definitely go for the 30" contractor saw.
Have you considered a planer?
Jointer - personally I wouldn't go less than 8". At the current price point, in lieu of alternatives, I would give some thought. Edge jointing I think you can get by without it (track saw/hand plane). Face jointing there are ways around using plane jig. They do take up some space.
Bandsaw - no experience with Laguna but I have a friend who loves his. I don't see a brake as a big deal, but I've also never had a saw with one.
When you get the tracksaw I recommend you invest in a high quality HEPA dust extractor. You will be happy you did, and you won't have a shop vac screaming in the back round.
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
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