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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
I know this is an older post, but for posterity I wanted to add that I installed a RapidAir system in my garage shop
Thanks Ryan, not highjacking here, it gives folks options.

Thats a great job and if your not insulating or covering the walls the copper will look good exposed compared to other options
Thanks Jim, I have insulation in the walls, at some point I will add more insulation in the ceiling.

NorthWoodsMan, some good points there, sweating copper is not for everyone.
 

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We looked at GRIT systems…
I‘ve also become quite fond of GRIT’s air filter automation. It senses particulate in the air and turns on and off the filters based on user determined settings. I’ve also got my two filters linked to a couple of my sanders since, even with dust collection, they put off some fines. When the sanders go on, so do the filters, even if the particulate count is low. And the filters keep running until the sensors deem the air ‘clean enough’ (again, based on user settings) and then turns them off. It’s another great whole-shop integration…
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
How did you go from 1/2" sweat to quick connect? Did you find a fitting that matched?
Yes I found a copper fitting which was threaded, a
How did you go from 1/2" sweat to quick connect? Did you find a fitting that matched?

Yes, I found a copper fitting that was threaded, a reducing bushing and a nipple sized to the quick disconnect.
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Nice set-up. In the shops I worked in the past, copper tubing never would have been considered. We always used steel tubing & steel elbows with threaded ends. Using tire paint stick or crayons for sealing the threads. Any time you needed a change, it was easy to unscrew and make changes. For air lines.
 

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Eric, good job on the copper air lines over pvc lines in your shop. Thanks for making a blog out of this very important subject. I noticed a number of comments relating to piping materials for compressed air. Many years ago I worked for a company that installed service station equipment. We installed air compressors, fuel pumps, and u.g. tanks, high pressure grease and oil pumps. When it came to air piping we always ran schedule 40 black (usually painted later) or galvanized above ground. We ran copper underground or scotch coated steel. I saw the Osha reference to a no go on PVC and I have many more bad stories about pvc than good ones. Most of my experience was commercial grade and inspected by building officials. In consideration of a one or at most two person shops I would still yield to safety first and not use pvc. Cold weather, impacts, degrading of pipe, glue, and fittings, as well as line shock and vibration to name a few. If you must use pvc use schedule 40 pipe and schedule 80 fittings running pvc as high up and out of the way on the wall or ceiling as possible. Then coming down the wall with metal pipe into the work zone.
On your piping Eric I would suggest clamping off the piping to a solid structure wherever you can pull or strain the piping like at a quick coupler. The copper is not as sturdy as metal pipe so I would add a two or three inch galv or brass nipple before the coupler for a clamping point. I agree with adding a drip leg drain where you drop down the wall to a 90. Good looking shop, hope you enjoy for many years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Thanks for the input, yes I need to add a few clamping points and change the quick disconnect at the overhead door to come out at a 90* and add a drip leg there.
 
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