[BigAl98]

One question for Madmark2….does your home have to be compliant with ANSI/ASME B31.8-1986? Also, 1986, that seems to be quite out of date…I'm sure its replaced by now…after all its its been over 35 years? Also, it might be specific for PVC type pipe, and might not cover newer pneumatic polyethylene tubing that is commonly used for compressed air…that is burst rated for 3×120 psi. It doesn't shatter on burst-it splits. I've used it in two of my shops, and it's never burst in the last 10 years. From 0 Degf to 100Degf. The only problem I've had with poly is that it has a bend radius of around 6" and it doesn't run straight (it has the twist of the coil it came in).... I use the push to fit connectors too, and if your carefull they work good.

 

[EricFai]

I think the biggest concern with the air lines in residential would be that it is installed to codes covering plumbing. If you had to file a insurance claim for injury or destruction and it was found not to be complaint with codes the insurance is not liable to pay any claims. Food for thought. I lean on the side of safety, one cannot pit a price on a life.

 

[bandit571]

Piping looks great! However..I tend to suck at sweating copper pipe…..

 

[EricFai]

Bandit, thank you. Some people don't do well with that. But at your being honest.

 

[Dark_Lightning]

I didn't use copper to run air from one side of the shop to the other, I used black iron pipe. Truth be told, for most applications I'd rather use copper, especially for plumbing for water. It's WAY easier than galvanized, and nearly permanent, compared to galvanized pipe. One of my sons asked why I ran pipe at all for the air. I told him that I was tired of knocking the precious wood off the stack on the shelf (in this case, curly maple and walnut), using a flex hose.

 

[Sark]

Interestingly, I just found out that ABS plastic pipe can be used for pressurized gas…

 

[splintergroup]

I really prefer copper for being tough and non-corroding, which if not checked with a filter can cause crud to be constantly flaking off and messing with your air tools. Problem is it is so freaking expensive! Anything that can take the pressure and is flexible can make retrofits much more pleasant.

Black pipe is ok, but heavy and will rust inside, but a filter eliminates that as a problem. Of course there is all the threaded joints to get sealed properly the first time or you'll hate yourself when you have to disassemble half the run to fix the leak (Murphy says the leak will be at joint N/2 (exactly the center most joint). Galvanized is probably the worst as it will also eventually corrode and you get those zinc flakes everywhere.

 

[Dark_Lightning]

^ Yes. I have a line dryer at the compressor output. I got water spots on a paint job once. 8^(

 

[EricFai]

So far the system is working great. Spraying cabinets with a HVLP System, the only problem I am having is the humidity in the air. I have to keep an eye on the dryer, releasing the water. Had to stop once to blow out the air hose, spraying water, Arrrrrrr. But that's it.

Really liking the HVPL System.

 

[RossL]

Nice install, Eric. And I envy you your shop!

 

[EricFai]

Thanks Ross, you come up with some great designs and projects also.

 

[MarkCh]

I have a bunch of left over pex that I'm hoping to turn into a hard line. I'll either let you know how it ages.

 

[EricFai]

Yes it would be interesting to hear how it last. I would be uneasy using plastic pipe. PVC or PEX.

 

[RyanGi]

I know this is an older post, but for posterity I wanted to add that I installed a RapidAir system in my garage shop. I sweated a couple sections of 3/4” copper into a pattern to form a condenser, with ball valves at the bottom of each short ‘run’ of the condenser. This I secured on the wall behind the compressor, attached to the compressor with a short whip to account for vibration, on the other end of the condenser starts the blue RapidAir flex line. I ran that down the long axis of the shop, with several drops off the main in strategic spots. Most of the drops have two quick connections. I think there’s a total of 8 connectors throughout the shop. Two of them are dedicated to reel lines, and two are connected to those short springy coil lines for blowing off the benches. One of them is tied directly to a pneumatic tools table I built a long while back (Essentially just a section of copper and a couple quick connects mounted under a rolling table that is set up for nailers and such…I use it as an assembly table).

I was really worried about separating water out of the system (even though I live in a fairly dry area) and honestly I think I over estimated the need. A simple braided drainage line and valve off the bottom of the compressor tank manages the moisture just fine and I rarely get any moisture from the Condenser ball valves unless I’m running pneumatic tools flat out for a loooong time, which I rarely do. I had one of those cheapy HF desiccant traps installed and it cracked and separated internally allowing a bunch of the desiccant into the overhead airline. These ended up traveling and getting lodged into the two-stage husky quick connects that I thought were a great idea. While I like the fact the Husky quick connects allow for air pressure release before the male end ejects, they got all jammed up by the desiccant beads and required a bunch of repair. A couple of them were so messed up that I just gave up on them and replaced them with standard brass quick connects.

Most of the discharges also have an inline ball valve and a pressure reducing valve. Again, just the cheapy HD ones. They actually work pretty well. While it requires mores hardware, I highly recommend adding inline valves at each discharge. The vast majority of small leaks I’ve dealt with over time in my system are from 1) the quick connect hardware or 2) cracks in the whip lines or reel lines.

Overall, the RadpiAir system is, IMO, well worth the money. It’s relatively easy to install with a minimal number of joints (since it’s flexible and can make sweeping turns), and is easy to cut and assemble with the compression fittings meant for it. It’s also pretty easy to reconfigure or add drops to if you want to later. The downside is the almost-proprietary pressure fittings used for it. You pretty much need to order and buy their fittings, and they’re not free! That said, you get what you pay for and I’m exceptionally happy with the system in my shop. After having it for years now, I couldn’t imagine not having a system with multiple drops, even in a small shop.

When I eventually build my retirement shop (after I retire I suppose) I’ll use RapidAir again. In fact, I’ll probably not change a whole lot of what I’ve got now. One major change will be to move the compressor into a closet or outside the shop to reduce noise when it runs. I just don’t have room for that now. I’d also like to automate the tank drainage for moisture.

Anyway, not trying to hijack the thread, but hopefully the info in this thread helps someone down the road with some real life options to add air to their shop!

 

[Lazyman]

I imagine that the electricians on the site will cringe at seeing that panel box blocked by the compressor. 😲 I had a shop vac sitting in front of my main panel and the only thing my electrician friend said about my messy shop when he came over to help me setup a subpanel was that I needed make sure that there was unencumbered access to the main panel for emergencies.

 

[OzarkJim]

Not sure how we respond without all the pictures and such coming along. Sorta makes it hard to read comments that follow....

Thats a great job and if your not insulating or covering the walls the copper will look good exposed compared to other options. And should last a lifetime. Noticed you even have valves postioned that will allow for condensation trap/drain.

We will be insulating and covering our walls and ceiling. We just ran PEX for the pipe (in part because we have the expansion tool and lots of PEX from other projects). But we have an outlet every 10' along the outer walls, in the utility trenches mid shop (eventually with outlet on all 4 sides of work tables) and two retractable reels in the ceiling.

We are also working on getting our dust control blast gates automated and since we have compressed air everywhere we plan to use pneumatic air cylinders to open and close gates. Pneumatics are more robust than servos.

 

[OzarkJim]

I know this is an older post, but for posterity I wanted to add that I installed a RapidAir system in my garage shop. I sweated a couple sections of 3/4” copper into a pattern to form a condenser, with ball valves at the bottom of each short ‘run’ of the condenser. This I secured on the wall behind the compressor, attached to the compressor with a short whip to account for vibration, on the other end of the condenser starts the blue RapidAir flex line. I ran that down the long axis of the shop, with several drops off the main in strategic spots. Most of the drops have two quick connections. I think there’s a total of 8 connectors throughout the shop. Two of them are dedicated to reel lines, and two are connected to those short springy coil lines for blowing off the benches. One of them is tied directly to a pneumatic tools table I built a long while back (Essentially just a section of copper and a couple quick connects mounted under a rolling table that is set up for nailers and such…I use it as an assembly table).

I was really worried about separating water out of the system (even though I live in a fairly dry area) and honestly I think I over estimated the need. A simple braided drainage line and valve off the bottom of the compressor tank manages the moisture just fine and I rarely get any moisture from the Condenser ball valves unless I’m running pneumatic tools flat out for a loooong time, which I rarely do. I had one of those cheapy HF desiccant traps installed and it cracked and separated internally allowing a bunch of the desiccant into the overhead airline. These ended up traveling and getting lodged into the two-stage husky quick connects that I thought were a great idea. While I like the fact the Husky quick connects allow for air pressure release before the male end ejects, they got all jammed up by the desiccant beads and required a bunch of repair. A couple of them were so messed up that I just gave up on them and replaced them with standard brass quick connects.

Most of the discharges also have an inline ball valve and a pressure reducing valve. Again, just the cheapy HD ones. They actually work pretty well. While it requires mores hardware, I highly recommend adding inline valves at each discharge. The vast majority of small leaks I’ve dealt with over time in my system are from 1) the quick connect hardware or 2) cracks in the whip lines or reel lines.

Overall, the RadpiAir system is, IMO, well worth the money. It’s relatively easy to install with a minimal number of joints (since it’s flexible and can make sweeping turns), and is easy to cut and assemble with the compression fittings meant for it. It’s also pretty easy to reconfigure or add drops to if you want to later. The downside is the almost-proprietary pressure fittings used for it. You pretty much need to order and buy their fittings, and they’re not free! That said, you get what you pay for and I’m exceptionally happy with the system in my shop. After having it for years now, I couldn’t imagine not having a system with multiple drops, even in a small shop.

When I eventually build my retirement shop (after I retire I suppose) I’ll use RapidAir again. In fact, I’ll probably not change a whole lot of what I’ve got now. One major change will be to move the compressor into a closet or outside the shop to reduce noise when it runs. I just don’t have room for that now. I’d also like to automate the tank drainage for moisture.

Anyway, not trying to hijack the thread, but hopefully the info in this thread helps someone down the road with some real life options to add air to their shop!

View attachment 3855467

That is a good add to the system. They also make automatic drain systems for the tank itself if I am not mistaken.

 

[RyanGi]

Yes, they do make automated drains. I’ve looked at them and they aren’t quite right with what I’ve got going on. I use GRIT Automation for my blast gates. DC, air filtration and such, and am hoping they’re going to move forward with an integrated valve set. This would allow me to effectively ‘turn on’ the shop and have the compressor (among other devices) come to life. In the case of the compressor, it would open a main valve to supply the overhead system and should be able to detail another valve to drain the moisture trap based on use cycles and the like. Geek stuff, but I enjoy it! 😜

 

[OzarkJim]

We looked at GRIT systems but we have a LOT of machines and blast gates. We will save some $$ with our own system and I think the air cylinders will be much more robust compared to the Grit servos. But we have air and control wiring already run. I do like that GRIT is wireless and probably would have went with it if we hadn't already started on our own system prior to learning of them.

Nothing wrong with either system and I do like the stuff that GRIT makes in general. In fact, I may well use the level sensor for our 55 gallon drum dust collection containers. Ivac also has same product.

 

[northwoodsman]

I saw that bandit mentioned earlier in this thread about sweating copper pipes. Let me pass on some old tricks a plumber taught me when I was 15 years old.

1. Clean the joint good with emery paper or a wire brush, both inside and out.
2. Apply flux where you want the solder to go, again on both pieces; the solder will only stick to where the flux is
3. Heat your joints evenly, go back and forth from the fitting to the pipe, the fitting is a little thicker and larger so it will take a couple seconds longer to get to temp (but literally only a couple of seconds).
4. Here is the real key! Watch your flame, as it goes around the part you are trying to heat the flame part then come back together, it's blue/yellow generally but as SOON AS IT TURNS GREEN stop heating the fitting and apply the solder, that's the perfect temperature. Don't even think about applying your solder to the joint before then and don't heat it past that point. It also helps to extend your solder wire about about 6" and curl the end around like a hook before you start the process and get solder in the back side of the joint first. You'll see the solder come around to the front once you touch it to the heated joint in the back. With a clean joint, properly applied flux, and the correct temperature solder will run up hill and in a circular pattern around the joint. Tips from a non-plumber, but they work every time.