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Router table question

859 Views 12 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  splintergroup, 
Woodforbrains
4
Hi,

Can someone explain why I am getting these ridges when I use my 1/2" rounded router bit on my router table?

At first, I thought it was due to the bit being too high. But now I am suspecting the ridge is from the top part with the bearing.

Is it because I bought cheap bits? and if I used the bit in the fence, instead of with the post, would that help?

Thanks for any advice.

Plant Wood Outdoor furniture Flowerpot Grass


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MrUnix
If you aren't using the fence and just relying on the bearing, then the bearing is too small. It needs to be flush with the cutting edge, but is set back slightly. Put a proper size bearing on it, or start using a fence.

Cheers,
Brad
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DS
It's kind of hard to tell for sure, but it looks like your router table plate might be plastic.
I highly recommend an aluminum one.

My first one was plastic and I had something similar happening (35 years ago, heheh).
Turns out the plastic was flexing under load and the beginning, middle and ending cuts were coming out all different depths.

The aluminum table insert solved that issue straight away.

My $0.02

Oh, and +1 to what MrUnix said, the bearing does look under sized.
Also, a fence will be far more stable for straight cuts than the bearing -and safer too!
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northwoodsman
The bearing does look smaller than the cutter. Did you purchase it assembled like that or did you "build" it yourself? Do you have a cutout in your fence for the bit or is it a solid piece? Can't tell from the picture for sure but it looks like a solid piece.
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Woodforbrains
Yeah, it is plastic - made by Kregg.

thanks for the tip

It's kind of hard to tell for sure, but it looks like your router table plate might be plastic.
I highly recommend an aluminum one.

My first one was plastic and I had something similar happening (35 years ago, heheh).
Turns out the plastic was flexing under load and the beginning, middle and ending cuts were coming out all different depths.

The aluminum table insert solved that issue straight away.

My $0.02

- DS
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Woodforbrains
I purchased it assembled. It was part of a kit with about 20 different bits.

I don't have a cutout on my fence, but I am about to make one.

My setup is a tablesaw cart with the router table on the other side of the fence, so I can use fence for both the tablesaw and the router. I made sort of an auxillary fence to cover the tablesaw fence, which has MDF on the face.

The bearing does look smaller than the cutter. Did you purchase it assembled like that or did you "build" it yourself? Do you have a cutout in your fence for the bit or is it a solid piece? Can t tell from the picture for sure but it looks like a solid piece.

- northwoodsman
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LesB
For some designs people want that grove and often on both sides of the arc. Raise the bit to get the second one.

Use a fence or get a bearing that matches the size of the bit to prevent that from happening. You can buy sets of different size bearing from most makers.
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Nubsnstubs
What has been stated about the bearing is correct. It has a 3/8" bearing that is used to make beads. The link below shows what it will allow you to do. https://www.toolstoday.com/media/catalog/product/cache/96baf7813fa1c382948abdf94a65c780/4/9/49592-med-new-a1_1.jpg
I think you will have to copy and paste.

This link shows a roundover bit. https://www.bing.com/th?id=OP.W7aLtapQIhVdAg474C474&o=5&pid=21.1&bw=0&bc=FFFFFF&w=140&h=140&qlt=100&dpr=3.53&c=17

Looking at the picture of that routing mess confuses me. It looks like you routed the long face face down. Then on the end, it looks like you stood it up and ended up with that weird look. If you would have done all the faces down, you would still have the partial bead, but that might have been acceptable and you wouldn't be having this conversation. ........... Jerry (in Tucson)
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sunnybob
The groove is all the way across, so the bearing is at fault. Even from that pic you can see the bearing is undersized.

For future reference, you can only use the fence and a round over bit if the wood is straight. If there are any curves then you have to use the bearing guided bit.

Check your router plate with a good straight edge, both front to back and side to side. If its dipped in the middle from the weight of the router, contact Kreg, They will supply a replacement free of charge.
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S
Wrong size bearing. Can usually swap out. I bought a kit on amazon for several different sizes.
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bigJohninvegas
2
If you aren t using the fence and just relying on the bearing, then the bearing is too small. It needs to be flush with the cutting edge, but is set back slightly. Put a proper size bearing on it, or start using a fence.

Cheers,
Brad

- MrUnix
Click to expand...
As Brad says, the bearing is too small.
I have this Whiteside Beading and Roundover bit set.
The photo shows the larger bearing installed which gives you a round over, The smaller bearing as how your bit is set up would be for a bead. If you set the height of the bit just right, it will give you a matching groove on top and bottom, with a bead in the middle. Get a bearing that matches the size of the cutter and you are back to a round over.
https://www.amazon.com/Whiteside-Router-Bits-501-Beading/dp/B000AM18RM
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WoodenDreams
That router bit is as Nubsnstubs says. It's designed to do a cut that's shown in his 1st link. Bearing is recessed. If you like that style router cut, use it as is. Or use a fence instead of the bearing for the cut. If you don't like that style router cut, remove the bearing, then use the fence during set-up.

There are bearing kits available if you want to replace the bearing to get a flush edge. Similar to this set https://www.menards.com/main/tools/power-tools/routers/cmt-contractor-trade-replacement-bearing-set/79101/p-1444426661500-c-10087.htm?tid=7835595243086629490&ipos=102You They cover the most poplar bearings.

Or you can order individual bears. https://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/search?q=bearings&type=product

Whiteside has three different bearing conversion kits available. They also have replacements screws.

#BB501 https://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/products/bb501?_pos=38&_sid=7566fb212&_ss=r

#BB600 https://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/products/bb600?_pos=39&_sid=7566fb212&_ss=r

#BB701 https://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/products/bb701?_pos=40&_sid=7566fb212&_ss=r
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splintergroup
I'll often use a template board in situations like these where the bearing doesn't allow for the cut I want.

In your case, I'd cut a 1/4" masonite board, plus-sized to get an overhang equal to the discrepancy in your bearing diameter. Double side tape to your board and then have at it.

Of course for this case the simple thing would be to find a proper bearing, I swap out bearings all the time between bits, fairly standardized ID/ODs (except for the occasional metric bearings on the cheap bits)
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