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I'll preface this by saying space is at a premium in my shop and I would like a router table. My table saw is a Delta 36-725t2 so I plan to put a router table in place of the aluminum wing on it. I have been looking at a bunch of plans for it. But I have 2 questions.
1) Is there any huge downsides/problems to using the table saw fence with an auxillary fence AS the router fence? Assuming it's built properly?
2) If I use it this way, is there any need for a miter track or t track in the table itself?
 

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I have a shop-made table with a combo t-track / miter slot and it doesn't get much use. I have used it to hold featherboards on occasion.

If you want to use your TS fence with the router in a wing, be aware that you'll need to construct an aux fence that is a "box" to enclose the backside of the bit. I made the WOOD Magazine router fence a while back, clamped to my TS fence, and was pretty happy with it. The main drawback is, you've got your router setup dialed in and - shoot, you need to rip another piece on the TS.

You can always start with a router in the TS wing, with a straight 2X clamped in place, to see how you like it.

A router attached to the TS can be a big space saver. It can also get crowded on the TS top. If I had to go that route again I would use a separate fence for the router, even if it was just a straight board clamped in place.

Another thing: with a router, the squaring nature of the TS fence is of little benefit, in fact, I found it to be a pain to make small adjustments to the router bit by trying to reposition the TS fence with router fence attached.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have a shop-made table with a combo t-track / miter slot and it doesn't get much use. I have used it to hold featherboards on occasion.

If you want to use your TS fence with the router in a wing, be aware that you'll need to construct an aux fence that is a "box" to enclose the backside of the bit. I made the WOOD Magazine router fence a while back, clamped to my TS fence, and was pretty happy with it. The main drawback is, you've got your router setup dialed in and - shoot, you need to rip another piece on the TS.

You can always start with a router in the TS wing, with a straight 2X clamped in place, to see how you like it.

A router attached to the TS can be a big space saver. It can also get crowded on the TS top. If I had to go that route again I would use a separate fence for the router, even if it was just a straight board clamped in place.

Another thing: with a router, the squaring nature of the TS fence is of little benefit, in fact, I found it to be a pain to make small adjustments to the router bit by trying to reposition the TS fence with router fence attached.
The designs I'm considering have a "box" on the fence for a vac hose, but I see what you mean. I can see your point about small adjustments on a monster fence though.
 

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Agree with Yamato on all. Only thing for the future would be to have the aux fence micro adjustable to the TS fence. I have an Incra Jig and use the micro adjust a lot for many things. makes setting that router cut easier to set precisely.
 

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I have a seperate stand for my router, which was shop built to hold a craftsman table just used the top set into a larger surface. Then a shop built to attached to that It sits along the wall and gets double use as a outfeed support for the miter saw. Now I just need to figure out the best way to connect the DC.
 

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I have my router in, essentially, the table saw wing. My Vega Pro fence has a micro adjust built in and I made an aux fence with dust collection that clamps to the saw fence.

Cabinetry Table Wood Rectangle Hardwood


Since my table saw is very old and does not have a blade height lock (the dado blade drops over repeated cuts), I tend to do all of my dadoes and rabbets on the router table. As you can see, I have a miter slot that I use all the time for cutting tenons and half laps. The only problem I've had is that the unsecured end tends to deflect a bit if I push too hard against it. I just add a clamp behind it to keep it from moving.
 

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The biggest down fall I see is using the table saw fence. I never like changing the setup on a machine in order to do something else.

I've had numerous situations where I had a router all set up and needed to rip another piece of stock because of a tear out, etc.

So I would make a separate fence if you're going to do that. You can make your own fence that is removable and uses T slots in the router table.
 

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My router fence has built in dust collection and clips over the tablesaw fence. Yes, I occasionally have to undo the router fence from the tablesaw fence so I can use it to make another cut on my tablesaw and that is a pain. But I have the woodpecker micro adjustment attached to my tablesaw and I love it and my router gets to use it too. Makes the tradeoff worth it to me. The router fence is also bulky but does not take up nearly as much floor space as a separate router table. There are always tradeoffs. We each get to decide what is most important to us. Good luck.
 

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I've seen where you can use a Bosch Router table top mounted directly to the Delta 36-725 which presumeably means that you can use the fence that comes with it too.


 

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The jobsite saw has destaco clamps to hold a router in the plywood wing. In the shop the router table is a piece of laminate countertop with the router screwed to it & it is clamped in the vice for use. When not in use, it leans up out of the way, taking up little space. Both rigs use simple wood fences that are clamped to the table. If I had a bigger shop, I'd probably have a dedicated router table set up but I wouldn't put it in the tablesaw as the fence rails are in the way and prevent clamping a fence.
 

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Any ideas for adding a micro adjuster to delta table saw fence? That either adjust the whole fence or perhaps just the router side of the fence?
I have the Wixey table saw digital readout for the fence on My Unisaw. I love being able to repeat cuts just by noting the actual dimension down to the fraction of an inch/mm. Cuts are repeatable and even though you can't micro adjust using some kind of ratcheting control, you can micro adjust just by looking at the readout. This is what I have. They also make a dedicated fence which has micro adjustment ability.
 

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I have a stand alone router table with a miter slot. I didn't use it much until I started making cope and stick doors. The coping sled rides in the miter slot, so I use it more often now. If you make cope and stick doors then a miter slot slot is essential, otherwise not so much.
 
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