I really like using a router lift.

Cast iron tops are also very nice, although a larger table surface is also great.

Building the base is a good plan.

Fence is fine building or buying. A beefy and tall wood fence is great for when you are passing a piece vertically over the bit.

 

My logic is it’s just a table so build it. Other people want overly complicated lifting mechanisms and accuracy to a 0.000000000001”. I don’t think any of that is necessary in woodworking unless you are doing nested dovetails and fancy routing projects. I rout then scrape or sand, it’s easy. 🤷 Just make sure the table is flat.

There are lots of plans on the internets that include storage and even dust collection. You should be able to find a table/cabinet that suits you.

I put my plunge router on the right wing of my tablesaw and that’s where it has stayed for the last 30 years. It gives me more shop space, a wider table, and I can use the same fence.

 

I built mine, based of Norm's version and i love it. It's now over 20 years and showing it's age....I'm considering a rebuild. BTW, my first router in that table was a Freud FT3000. I replaced it some time ago with a lift and a different router, but I have a second Freud 3000 that I kept for hand held use when I needed the size/power. Now, when Bosch bought the Freud bit/blade business they (apparently) also agreed to continue to support the Freud tools that were sold in the US. So you can still get parts for the Freud routers from them. I have the phone number in my shop files if you need it.

 

I also built from Norm's plan, also about 20 years ago. It has served me well and I don't know anything that really needs to be changed. I used a Jessem lift and Bosch router. still room for more bits.

 

I built my first three or four router tables, usually selling the previous one and building another after a military move. Then when things settled down, I bought one for a couple hundred dollars. I've been missing my homemade ones ever since.

 

I would say build you own to save money and use the savings to buy a router table lift for it. No plunge router.

 

I would ask 1st. What type of projects do I intend to do with the router table. Can a benchtop router do the job. You can pick-up a cheap new benchtop set-up with router for about $150 on sale.

Do I need a full size table.

A benchtop router has served my needs for thè past 7 years. I added a router table extension wing to my table saw a couple years ago. So I didn't need to keep changing bits, when doing multiple shaping. As far as the router, I'm frugal, I just have the basic 2hp routers. Craftsmans in both tables and two low budget Performax brand. Both seem to have the same interchangeable parts & attachments.

 

If anything, buy the table top and build the rest. I bolted angle iron to the underside of a router tabletop and bolted legs to the iron; so remove a few bolts and the whole thing stacks in very little space; I have a size issue with floor space. If you have the space and the skills, I see no reason to buy something off the shelf. When you design and build something, you can design it to meet your needs and not compromise your needs to fit the off the shelf solution.

I really don't see the need for a router lift, but if you want a lift some of the new routers have built in lifting systems. I have an older Bosch 1611 EVS plunge router that I took the springs out of so I didn't have to fight to adjust things. I normally just pull the plate and router out of the hole and adjust the height and bit while the router motor is on top of the table.

I mostly use shop made fences and jigs on my table. I have an Incra fence, but I rarely use it as I find I can quickly use some scrap and a couple of clamps to make a purpose built fence; I have to find something to do with all the scrap cutoff pieces I have lying around!

 

Building or buying is totally up to you. If you have and want to build that’s great, if not just buy..

Many enjoy working on the shop, others want to building things for home, etc..

 

Build one and put a router lift in it. I built mine with a PC 7518 router and Incra lift. I recently rebuilt the cabinet but kept the too, lift and router. I had looked at buying a router table but was too expensive and could better use that to buy router bits. I think I have a lot more money in router bits than the table. Most of my bits are either Freud or Whiteside. This is mine with dust collection to the fence and underneath.

 

Can't tell you exactly what's best. But I opted to build my own. Integrated it with my table saw (Delta725T2). Modeled the lift mechanism off of the plans Stumpy Nubs sells for like $5. Couldn't be happier with it. Takes up zero additional space, my TS fence doubles as the router fence, adjustability is easy and very fine, and it just flat out works really well.

 

But I opted to build my own. Integrated it with my table saw...

Ditto - built it into an extension wing of a cheap TS as space is at a premium around my house. The fence doing double duty is great, and the router can be lowered when not in use so the full table is available.

Cheers,
Brad

 

I built my own starting with a Harbor freight YUKON 48 in. Workbench. I doubled the top, built an adjustable fence, etc. My only regret is not buying the router plate. My homemade acrylic plate has too much play in it. You can see it on the right in the attached picture.

My next improvement will be an underside box for improved dust collection and melamine on all surfaces. After that, a router lift.

 

Quality is expensive once. Router Tables are more versatile the more you use them.

My Incra is 20 years old, and as accurate as the day I bought it. Buy the fence, table top and lift, build the cabinet.

 

 

I built my first few, and they worked just fine. Generally built with scrap pieces, with the builds getting better each time. No lifts.

Then I got a good deal on a cast iron router wing for my table saw with a lift and will never go back. The cast iron options are more expensive and not strictly necessary, but I'm one of those people who enjoy degrees of accuracy beyond what might be required for woodworking.

Having it in the table saw saves me overall space, gives me a wider wing, and hasn't created a conflict between using the tools. I'd splurge on the cast iron top if I needed to buy/make one now. The lift is a nice to have (I'd prefer one), but not strictly necessary. The fence can be easily made out of almost anything. And certainly a cabinet for a stand alone unit can be made, with good storage.

Post pictures of what you do!

Tyler

 

OPTION "D"

peruse the local flea mkts n garage sales for a used table top unit that can be clamp'd to the work bench/surface of choice

i can frequently find them for $5 - $10 depending on whether they still have the fences & miter gage w/ them

i keep a couple handy most of the tyme w/ one set up w/ a bearing tip'd round over bit for edging projects

i have one set up for TnG jointing

a 3rd one is free for the odd job

when clamp'd to a work table in the down wind door of the barn the dust is projected out in the yard to help build a healthier duff on the gravel field with the aid of a fan or 2

they side neatly under my 4' x 16' knee high work table when not in use

the next one i stumble onto will get set up for making 1/2" finger joints for box building

OPTIONS !

leon

 

Thanks for everyone's input. It has been a most helpful.

Neal

 

My router table is a hybrid. Incra insert/lift and cast iron top with a homemade cabinet. My last table had particle board top with Formica, plexiglass insert with a lift attached. It worked okay but not user friendly. The insert and had to be removed to change a bit.
The cast iron top was purchased from Rockler. It flat and has slots to attach accessories and channels feather boards and sleds. It’s weight adds stability with less vibration. The Incra is easy to use and accurate. Both items were a bit pricey but for me they are worth it. The cabinet stores everything I need for routing. The casters/feet adjust because I was it as an outfeed table. With the feet adjusted all the way up the weight is on the casters for moving

 

Mine..

Fence is also the one I use on my tablesae.....guides hand held Routers....Guides a Circular Saw to cut the ends of panels square...

When not in use, I can carry it back to it's storage space in the shop..

Router is a VINTAGE B&D clone of a DeWalt No. 610....all metal, and takes two wrenches to loosen or tighten the collet...
Top of the table is waist high, to me. Router has a 1/4" only collet...

Height adjustments? Wingnut to loosen, GEARED crank to raise or lower...tighten wingnut back up..go to work...
I can add a second "Fence" IF needed..

More of a feather board...but, it keeps the grooves centered in the boards edge, and does not allow the board to wander around...

Nice, when I need to make a stopped groove...

 

I always was so glad to get rid of the JESSUMS and other lift operators. Went to the Onsruds, never looked back. such a joy to use , and much safer , nowadays find them cheaper than the lifts, etc

 

I make my rolling wheels, and all my barstool stuff and never see a bit, the overhead arm with the pneumatic pin which comes down in pattern , you can hear it cutting and extraction but has that SAFETY factor.

 

My router table is like @bandit571's in post #21 above. It sits on top of a file cabinet. I clamp it to a Workmate workbench to use it.

A few years ago, I saw a Woodsmith router table design that I liked. It converts from a normal router table to a horizontal one for panels and mortices. They featured it in the magazine (2 issues) and the TV show (2 episodes) and I saved the issues with the plans. We don't have space for that router table now, but someday. This router table:

Video introduction:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BekjTEi0rtg

Make it yourself, Part 1, do your own search for parts 2 through 6:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bESDBe1-8bA

Plans for purchase:
https://www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/combination-router-table/

 

I’ve never had router lifts. Personally didn’t need or want them..

My HD3D 3headed monster…