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Resawing a 1" board on a TS

1931 Views 12 Replies 10 Participants Last post by ghazard, Jul 10, 2009

ghazard

Discussion Starter · Jul 9, 2009 (Edited by Moderator)

Hi LJs! I have a 1" thick board, 6" wide x 15" long. I would like to resaw it to make bookmatched panels for box lids. I only have a table saw that could do this. Here is my thought but before I try it I'd like your comments/concerns on the procedure.

1. Set the fence the right distance to split the thickness in half.
2. raise the blade about 1"
3. Make a cut
4. flip the board and make another cut.

Now I have 2 1" deep slots the length of each long edge of the board.

5. raise the blade another 1" and repeat steps 3 and 4
6. Raise the blade about 3/4" and repeat steps 3 and 4.

This will leave the 2 halves still connected by a 1/2" center "rib".

7. using a hand saw, cut down the center of the remaining 1/2" "rib" to split the halves.

What does that sound like?

I look forward to your suggestions.

Thanks,

Greg

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patron

· #2 · Jul 9, 2009

i do this all the time ,
as i dont have a good resaw fence/blade for my bandsaws .
i just yesterday ,
set the fence for middle cut as you explained ,
and this time i put a straight stop and clamped it to the other side of the board ,
trapping the board in betwen .
i dont do it in stages , just take my time in the cut .
it always comes out a little scored ,
and you have to plane / sand that face .
if you plane , just keep track of the grain ,
as one wants to be reversed to go to planer .

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SCOTSMAN

· #3 · Jul 9, 2009

That sounds about right,just make sure you dont spin them when turning then or you'll end up uneven you could finish with the bandsaw if you have a resaw blade but I'm with you good luck regards Alistair

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ghazard

Discussion Starter · #4 · Jul 9, 2009

Thanks David.

And good point Alistair about keeping the same face against the fence…

Thanks!

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knotscott

· #5 · Jul 9, 2009

Greg - Be sure the edges are flat and square to the face.

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Kindlingmaker

· #6 · Jul 9, 2009

...and wear a suit of armor! Reswaing on a table saw can be done but its like speeding in your car, sooner or later you will get a ticket. Be as safe as you can be!

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ghazard

Discussion Starter · #7 · Jul 9, 2009

Scott, good call.

Kindling…I just paid a speeding ticket this morning, in fact.

(first one in a long time. everyone says that though, don't they?

) should that tell me something?

I'll be as safe as I can be and if I'm not comfortable doing it…I won't.

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CharlieM1958

· #8 · Jul 9, 2009

I do this all the time, although I usually stick to boards no thicker than about 3", just because I don't feel real comfortable with that much blade up inside a small piece of wood.

Also, as a safety precaution, I make sure I'm standing well to the side of the blade so my head and chext is not in the line fo fire should a kickback take place.

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KentS

· #9 · Jul 9, 2009

I've done that some, but I would be hesitant to do a board that short. I makes me nervous to even do a long board. There's not much you can do in the way of saftey, like feather boards, etc. A sharp blade is critical. You are right about doing this in increments. That would help the safety issue. It would be better to find someone with a bandsaw to do it for you.

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Karson

· #10 · Jul 9, 2009

I've always cut on the bandsaw, but that is the way that I've read. And yes keep the same surface against the fence.

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brianinpa

· #11 · Jul 9, 2009

I have done this a lot, but Charlie brings up a very valid point. Rather than leaving a 1/2" rib in the middle, a rib that is 1 1/2" to 2" wide will cut just as easy as your 1/2" rib. As I said, I have done this a lot and I have a really nice dent in a metal coffee cup to remind me to always be careful when resawing with the table saw. I was cutting into the wood too much and I sent the board flying across the shop. Thankfully it was only the coffee cup that was damaged

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teenagewoodworker

· #12 · Jul 9, 2009

you can do it but it is very dangerous. i would recommend making a jig that resembles a raised panel jig that you could clamp it to to keep your hands out of the way. also take very light cuts with a good 24 tooth ripping blade. a combo will not cut it. and going at it all at once is never really a good idea. because there is going to be stress in the board and as that is released the board could pinch the blade and then its coming back at you. simple enough. also resaw thick and mill to finished thickness. its not gonna stay flat when you cut it most likely. so you wont be able to resaw and glue them up and call it a panel. ive resawed like this a few times and be careful. its dangerous.

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ghazard

Discussion Starter · #13 · Jul 10, 2009

Thank you all for the advise. All good points and I will take each into account…if/when I end up making this cut.

Brian, I think leaving a larger rib is a really good idea…makes for a more rigid board when the blade is in the kerf plus requires fewer cuts to get to the hand saw step.

Thanks again everyone. More comments welcome….

Greg

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