LumberJocks Woodworking Forum banner
  • Please post in our Community Feedback thread for help with the new forum software! If you are having trouble logging in, please Contact Us for assistance.
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
751 Posts
Well I got my Craftsman 10 saw from Craigs list all cleanded up, new blade guard and table top installed. I adjusted the saw according to the setup instructions and made my first cut and when I pull the blade forward it cuts right where it should. However when I push the saw back it is as if the blade has flexed or at the end of the arm the blade is not square to the table. I am stumped. I'm going to pick up a different blade, perhaps the blade that I am using is flexing. It's a 40t Skill.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,727 Posts
Is the motor assembly tight enough as it runs on the track? If not, the whole unit will flex as it rides though the cut. I'm not sure about your saw, but most have an eccentric adjustment on the bearings that ride in the track. a new blade would also help. Skill is not going to make a quality blade for a radial arm saw.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
667 Posts
I have a Craftsman 10" RAS, I at first found a similar problem to what you are describing. I ended up removiving the top cover, (large pain in the rear) and cleaned and steel wooled the track. My saw had been sitting a while unused and some surface rust. I found that it would push the head over to one-side, making it act as if the head was out of whack. It has to do with the grooves on the track sliders that are on the eccentrics. By cleaning the tracks well, I eliminated the problem. You can check to see where this happens by laying a framing square with the short-side against the fence and the long-side along the blade travel on the table. If you have something going on with the track, you will notice the blade move over as you push and pull the head. The saw does not need to run. The problem is really not the blade.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
751 Posts
Hi there, I agree about the blade. I did purchase a Bosch 80th radial saw blade today. I agree as well i will have to clean the track, my saw to has been sitting for sometime. I adjust the rear bearings to square the blade to the table. I thought I checked the front bearings. I will check again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,563 Posts
I doubt it's the blade too, more like tracking.

But I love 'em, wouldn't be without one. But of all the machines they have the most adjustments to dial it in, 4 and any one of them will throw it off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
667 Posts
Yea Blankman, I have to agree. They maybe temper-mental, but with a little TLC they are a versatile machine. I think they get a bad rap because of their adjustments. For small dado work and half laps they are just fast and repeatable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,563 Posts
Ray, after thinking about your explanation I'm not quite clear on something, when you push that carriage back is the blade cutting the board on the way back i.e sawdust a flying? Or if that's not happening are you saying you cut the board and it's not square? Where it's closer to the fence more or less wood has been cut away then where it's farther from the fence?

If it's the latter the blade could be skewed, i.e. not perpendicular to the fence. Even though the carriage travel may be perpendicular to the fence the blade may not be.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,342 Posts
Greetings Ray: I've got a 1984 Craftsman 10" RAS, and I really do like it. I set mine up when I got it, and it's dead-on. It's all in the adjustment. I remember I had to adjust the tracking one time, but that's all. You might check the two nuts under the tracking head. Tighten or loosen. These takes the slop out. Just don't tighten too tight as it will not move. Tweek it just right….......
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
956 Posts
Ray there are lots of adjustments and as mentioned above, needs TLC. However, once they are adjust you should enjoy it. First. A fellow LumberJack give me the following site dedicated to the RAS: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start. It's 100% Radial Arm Saw.

Secondly, I understand the book Mr Sawdust will help you out. It seems to be their bible.

Also have you tried to find the owners manual at http://www.owwm.com/. I own (from my dad) a 1967 Black & Decker Dewalt R-1350. This manual is very detailed on how to do a step by step alignment . You can at http://www.owwm.com/mfgindex/pubdetail.aspx?id=1468.

God Bless - Let me know if this helps - Harold
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,563 Posts
Hey Harold, I had the 1360 from my dad. Never could get that thing dialed in to my liking. And taking the arm off of 90 it would never come back to 90. And adjusting the table height left something to be desired IMO. I put up with it for a long time until finally last year I got a Delta 12" RAS. Gave the DeWalt to my nephew with the condition if he ever wants to get rid of it while I'm still around it goes back to me. But I doubt he will, it was his Gandpa's. :)
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top