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Howdy from balmy Michigan,

I stumbled across an old Craftsman radial arm saw. After a couple cans of pb blaster, some dynomite and a barrell of oil I got everything working. It saws great but I can get just one station on the radial. (A little joke..haha). I have built a wood table for it and am a tad confused as to where the fence should be positioned. 'Seems I need to put it out quite a ways toward the front of the table due to the position of the saw head which cuts my table in half or so. Am I missing something? Uncle Snail
 

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Dale,

The fence in the original table arrangement can be placed in 3 positions. Obviously the important issue being that when you turn on the machine the blade does not touch the piece that you want cut.
The primary place or location would be so that when the blade is at the rear most position the fence sits just in front of it, and when you rotate the blade on a brand new fence (no kerf cut yet) it will not touch it.
Here is a diagram of how it is set up: Craftsman RAS

By the way, depending on your model number it may be possible to get the upgraded guard, there was a recall and they offered to upgrade it, I was fortunate to be able to do that. It was discussed on this forum do a search on it.

Have fun…..
 

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You can mount a permanent fence at back as close to POST as possible. this allows you to RIP wider sheets of lumber, when you turn the head 90 degrees. Turn your ARM to 45 degrees, make a portable fence for it. Keeping blade behind fence. Third fence is where jerryz said to put it.
(I don't want to sound negative but)
ONLY let people that know what they are doing switch these on. I think mine was the most dangerous tool I had. I sold mine.
 

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I have a Craftsman RAS Model #113.197150 and I love it. There is no real middle ground for an RAS. Either you love 'em or you hate 'em. At least thats what I have found. Sears makes a 7" dado set, that is great for making half lap joints, dado's for bookshelves and other repeatable cuts with accuracy. I actually think it is safer than my miter saw.

This summer, I plan installing some T-track sections in the table to use in con junction with some roller blade style wheels to hold material up against the fence and feed it to a preset stop block.

It's a good tool, has a place in the shop. Like any other power tool though respect it and it will work just fine. If it seems risky, it probably means you shouldn't do it and find a new approach.
 

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Back at Ya in Mi, too. I have a Craftsman, and I believe You will want to use the second from the front. The reason is, there are three positions with that one. Turn it around to an inboard rip, with the blade closest to the fence, and the rip settings on the arm, (measure) will tell You the distance from the fence to the blade. On the outer rip, The other measure scale will tell You the distance from the blade to the fence. The RAS can do so many different types of cuts, that it blows my 3 hairs back Ha, If You can, pick up a few good books up from the library and check it out. I am in Holland, Where are You?
 

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You should go on the Craftsman site and look up the model number of your radial arm saw. They have a recall going on and will send you a complete new table set up or $100. I forgot the exact nature of it, but I know a lot of folks did it.
 
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