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I set up my saw, used a dial indicator and got the blade parallel to the slots. I paralleled my rip fence to the slots and I test cut some wood and there is a ton of saw marks on the wood. Not burns just saw marks.

Any idea as to why? Is it just that the stock ridgid blade is so bad it leaves marks like that?

Thanks
 

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I have not even set up my r4511 yet so I cannot speak for the 4511 but I will say my 3650 had a horrible stock blade made by Ridgid. I did not even try to sell the stock blade at a garage sale, I just threw it away recognizing it was not worthy of being used on the worst of saws. Get a real blade and your problem is probably over.

Our 4511 is still packaged up and sitting in the dining room. We are anxious to get it set up soon!
 

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The stock blade is pretty poor quality, and will ultimate dictate the end performance of your saw. Even if you find something else as the root cause of the problem, you'll want a better blade. You don't have to spend a fortune, but if you're selective $30 and up can usually get you a good blade.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I threw a dewalt 40t that I happened to have on it and it was so much better. There was a little burn at the front of my crosscut, but that was more b/c I was using the mitre guide alone with a long piece of wood so there was some wobble in the wood I believe.

thanks
 

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I agree the blade is probably causing the marks. I did not use the stock blade on my R4511, but instead have a Forrest WW2 with the stabilizer and it leaves a perfectly smooth surface. I do notice some vibration when shutting off but that I think is common to this saw.
 

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hi teejay.you say that you set the fence parralle with the moter slots.i set the rear of my fence a few thous.away from the rear of the saw blade.other wise the rear of the blade is still touching the wood and causeing marks.not to mention the real problem of kickback or the blade picking up the wood and it being thrown back at you.hope this helps
 

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teejay,
I had noticed similar saw marks with the stock blade. With this blade from Infinity Tools, the cuts are much smoother.

How did you get the fence within 0.002? I can't get my fence being that accurate from the front end of the table to the back end of the blade. I also check the parallelism for the full range of the rip fence position (fence being 24" from blade). So far, I think the root cause of the inaccuracy is the split rail.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
sh2005: I used the same indicator gauge that I bought for $10 to align the fence and blade. The fence is within .002 from front to back, but like others, the center bows in a bit more. I'll have to address that when I add an auxiliary to it
 

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teejay, I use a dial indicator too. I have an auxiliary fence attached now, so I am able to shim where needed. The problem I have is that if I align the fence near perfectly close to the blade, the alignment gets worse when I move the fence all the way out to the right, and vice versa. So, I had choose a middle ground.
I hope the new blade solves the issue.
 
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