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I have an old Bailey #4 plane.
I just got a Hock blade and chip breaker.
I have no experience using a hand plane but was able to get some pretty good results right off.
I have questions about the plane though.

There is a light dip in the middle of the frog. With the blade installed there is a gap of about 1/32".
The gap is the middle, but the blade contacts the frog at the top and bottom of the frog. It doesn't seem to be causing a problem but I was wondering if this is normal or not.

The depth adjustment seems very coarse, just a tiny turn of the knob makes a big difference in the thickness of the shavings. Because there is a lot of lash it makes it tricky to raise / lower the depth by small amounts. I am wondering if there is some retrofit kit that helps with this.

Thanks
 

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Joel, congrats. I have a no.4 with an aftermarket blade that I use all the time. Good plane.

Your frog gap doesn't seem normal, but it also doesn't seem like it would be a huge problem. Other planeheads might be more knowledgeable about this. You can remove the frog and sand it flat, but from what I remember, I had to work around either the sideways adjuster or the little advancer tab.

The depth adjusters are pretty finicky. You learn quickly to turn that knob with a really light touch. All it needs sometimes is a degree or two to get it perfect. Three or four degrees and you're too far. Don't know if there is a kit to help with this, I would just try to get used to it. That's what I did.
 

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you have to match the ""type"":http://www.timetestedtools.com/typing-stanley-bench-planes.html of frog with your plane, so the short answer is probably no. The frog in the picture you posted would probably also need flattening.

Post some pictures of what you have and we can probably help more.
 

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This might help you http://lumberjocks.com/OSU55/blog/39728

As for the adjuster, the backlash is typically excessive. Through swapping parts from scrapped planes I have been able to find combinations that tightened it up some. The coarseness of depth adjustment is just that way on the Stanley and similar bench planes. There's a trade off- sometimes the blade needs to be moved a significant distance, and finer threads would require even more turns. One of the differences between cheaper and premium hand planes is much tighter tolerances providing more accurate adjustments.

With use you will develop a "feel" for adjusting hand planes. It takes time and practice to learn the skills to use one. Practice on scrap boards a lot before trying on a project - it can be very frustrating to mess up in the middle of a project.
 
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