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Proper angle & measurements for roof

2779 Views 10 Replies 5 Participants Last post by TopamaxSurvivor, Jul 24, 2009

TheLandYacht

Discussion Starter · Jul 20, 2009 (Edited by Moderator)

OK. Got started on my shed design today…actually laid & floored the base in about 45 minutes. Got the idea from a guy who sells pallets. He had built his entire back deck (suspended 4ft off the ground) outta them.

Just laid 4 93" long pallets side by side, nailed em together, and covered em. Instant floor.

Going to actually forego walls except what's absolutely needed for structural stability. I want the breeze comin in. So I'll just frame it in.

My question is this. I've decided on what I'm told is called a "shed" style roof, although I've seen very few sheds with this roof. It isn't "A" frame, rather slanting in only one direction. What would be an appropriate angle for the roof, and if I want 8' in the back of the shop, how high should the front be to make that happen?

The shop dimensions, as I said a moment ago, are 93" front to back. And I believe I remember the pallet guy sayin the pallets are 36" wide? That makes the entire monstrosity 144" wide.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

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Cato

· #2 · Jul 20, 2009

roof pitch for decent drainage of your shed should probably be around 5/12 to 6/12 I would think. That means 5 inches to 6 inches rise respectively for every 12 inches in length. I would also think for that style roof that you will have to factor in the thickness of your top plate and your rafter thickness as it will probably rest on the top plate of the front wall.

I have not built this type of roof, just the A frame type for the shed I am currently working on, but take a look at the reference books in Lowes or HD and in a couple of minutes you will know all you need for this type of roof.

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TopamaxSurvivor

· #3 · Jul 20, 2009 (Edited by Moderator)

IMO, 5 or 6/12 is pretty steep. You need at least 3/12 for composite roof to drain water without leaking. I built one last year. I think that is what I used.

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a1Jim

· #4 · Jul 20, 2009 (Edited by Moderator)

If your using composition (3 tab)for your roof the warranty isn't any good unless you have at least a 4/12 pitch roof. In places were you have heavy snow 6 or 8/12 is recommended or more.

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craftsman on the lake

· #5 · Jul 20, 2009

If you're in a non-ice and snow area then I have a solution that I've used that doesn't leak and is supposedly lifetime. At home depot they have that plastic wavy corrugated plastic roofing. But one of them is pollycarbonate. It's very thin and you can bend it over on itself without it breaking. It lists it as virtually impervious to weather and has a lifetime warranty. The same stuff they make fighter plane canopy's with.
I've put it on shallow roofs with a bead of silicon at the overlapping seams and used gasketed metal roof screws on the high points. I've used it on sheds, and purgolas. Nice stuff. And as you seem to want open walls (from your desription?) it comes in smoked so it filters sun but lets light in a bit.

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TheLandYacht

Discussion Starter · #6 · Jul 20, 2009

2' rise is about what I expected
and I meant to say 8' at the side facing the house,...so that'd be the high side. That'd give me (almost) 6' at the side I'd be facing with my bench setup.

Managed to get my hands on a whole bunch of siding for $0.51/sheet (god I love the home depot cull bin). It's not hardi-plank, but I'd guess it's at least somewhat water-impervious. I already used 3.3 sheets for the floor of the shelter…I'll be posting pics soon. So, in a place where sunlight isn't an issue (the entire property is shaded), and where snow/ice isn't an issue (it drops below freezing maybe a dozen days out of the year), would it be feasible to use the siding material I have as roofing? Remember, I just want this as a "shelter" from the elements so I can get some of the bigger tools outta the damn garage. The plan will probably be to bring the more expensive tools inside when the nasty-weather season rolls around.

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TopamaxSurvivor

· #7 · Jul 20, 2009

I should have waited for Jim, I think he's right

) 1/3 for comp, not 1/4 :-((

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TheLandYacht

Discussion Starter · #8 · Jul 24, 2009

It's no longer an issue.
Praise craigslist yet again.
An older couple were giving away an early-80's era aluminum patio cover complete with the "trellis" style legs. One end brackets to the house directly below the eaves, the other end sits on the legs. 10' x 26' patio cover for the cost of a day slavin in the hot sun gettin it down. And man was it hot…it got up to 106 that day.

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TopamaxSurvivor

· #9 · Jul 24, 2009

I'll bet taking it down was still better than bucking hay when its over 100 in the field and close to 130 in the barn up by the roof

) Good find, hope to works out. How steep is the roof?

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TheLandYacht

Discussion Starter · #10 · Jul 24, 2009

you know, just eyeballin it, it was only a few degrees from bein completely flat. been up since late 70's from what the old lady said.

and i don't wanna get into a "whose day sucked worse" competition. there are no winners in that game

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TopamaxSurvivor

· #11 · Jul 24, 2009

1/4" /ft is good nuf fer plumbers :=))

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