Really nice setup, very well laid out. Thanks for posting the pics.
Nice set up by the way. I see you are using the 3" clear pipe for you DC duct work. If I can ask, what type of DC are you using and I assume it works pretty well for you?
Very nice set up. How many square feet are in your shop? It looks like you have a great opportunity for overhead storage as well.
The garage that I am using for the shop measures 22'x39' or about 858 sq ft. It is 8' high for a depth of about 12 feet in from the garage door that has a drywall ceiling but the rest is open to the rafters. I did build a couple of racks that hang from the rafters to hold long moldings etc. The open rafters are great for storage and moving long pieces of lumber but it is also a bear the heat the shop. I bought a 240V 30 amp electric shop heater but it isn't powerful enough to do the job. I placed an additional fan in front of it to help move the air. Two weeks ago I found a 150K BTU kerosene torpedo type heater on sale at Lowes for half price. It is WONDERFUL! It really heats the space in next to no time and has a built in thermostat that I set for about 55 degrees F. The electric heater behind the fan keeps the warm air circulating and the kerosene heater rarely kicks back on. As I mentioned in my second blog installment the 2 1/2 plastic pipe and 1 HP DC did a fair to adequate job but I wasn't satisfied and it wasn't powerful enough for the new tools I recently added so I bought the new JET DC with top canister that I still need to install.
Nice collection of tools you got thereMore photos of tools and shop
As you can see to date I have added some lumber storage (Triton metal racks) and shop built cut-off and sheet goods racks on casters as well as a rack to hold 2×4's or molding off the floor. We have also added more tools to the collection. I really need to get all this stuff organized. I'm still looking for thin walled 4" PVC to create a main line and drops for the new DC. The small system I started out with works pretty good for the band saw table saw and not so well with the miter saw. It definitely is not enough for the jointer, 22/44 sander of the thickness planer. I plan to connect one branch of the new DC to the jointer, planer, and sander. The other branch will connect to the TS band saw and Miter saw using a reducer to drop from 4" to the existing 2 1/2 ducting I already have in place. I have two shop vacs a new stainless steel Rigid model that I am going to dedicate to the router table and another old one for general shop cleanup. I also plan to add a floor sweep station near the galvanized can with the cyclone top that is going to be used as a pre-separator. I hope you all enjoy the photos and I most definitely welcome comments and or suggestions on how I could improve my setup.
I mounted an old piece of kitchen cabinet to the wall under the window and use small file cabinets to make a desk
Rigid TS and small 1HP DC system connected to Rigid DC tubing…it works but is not powerful enough
Another view of Rigid TS
Rigid band saw still connected to the small DC system
JET 2/44 Sander
Another view of the JET sander
My wife likes to do Intarsia so we have an area for her sanders, scrolll saw and a small old drill press
Drill press…we want to get a larger one down the road
Kreg Router table…still need to drill out the mounting plate for the new small Triton router but have to get longer mounting screws first
Large Triton plunge router I got to augment my old Skill plunge router that is now dedicated to sign work
Smaller Triton routh with above the table crank to be dedicated to the Kreg router table
New Delta 6" rabbeting jointer
DeWalt 13" planer. I mounted it to a piece of 3/4 plywood and glued up MDF infeed and outfeed supports to the plywood then added cleats to match the vice jaws of an old Walmart workbench that I have had for years. I can easily remove the planer if I need to use the banch for other crafts
Rigid Miter Saw mounted on a Ryobi stand. I mounted it to a small piece of old kitchen counter top and then to the Ryobi stand because it would not attach directly
Knock-down rack to hold 2×4's. Once I complete the basement bar that I am building I will knock this down and store it for later use
Cut off cart and left end of sheet goods cart both of which are mounted on casters
Lumber carts and stacked lumber in the background against the wall
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Hey you are ready to go it looks like. Very nice set up.More photos of tools and shop
As you can see to date I have added some lumber storage (Triton metal racks) and shop built cut-off and sheet goods racks on casters as well as a rack to hold 2×4's or molding off the floor. We have also added more tools to the collection. I really need to get all this stuff organized. I'm still looking for thin walled 4" PVC to create a main line and drops for the new DC. The small system I started out with works pretty good for the band saw table saw and not so well with the miter saw. It definitely is not enough for the jointer, 22/44 sander of the thickness planer. I plan to connect one branch of the new DC to the jointer, planer, and sander. The other branch will connect to the TS band saw and Miter saw using a reducer to drop from 4" to the existing 2 1/2 ducting I already have in place. I have two shop vacs a new stainless steel Rigid model that I am going to dedicate to the router table and another old one for general shop cleanup. I also plan to add a floor sweep station near the galvanized can with the cyclone top that is going to be used as a pre-separator. I hope you all enjoy the photos and I most definitely welcome comments and or suggestions on how I could improve my setup.
I mounted an old piece of kitchen cabinet to the wall under the window and use small file cabinets to make a desk
Rigid TS and small 1HP DC system connected to Rigid DC tubing…it works but is not powerful enough
Another view of Rigid TS
Rigid band saw still connected to the small DC system
JET 2/44 Sander
Another view of the JET sander
My wife likes to do Intarsia so we have an area for her sanders, scrolll saw and a small old drill press
Drill press…we want to get a larger one down the road
Kreg Router table…still need to drill out the mounting plate for the new small Triton router but have to get longer mounting screws first
Large Triton plunge router I got to augment my old Skill plunge router that is now dedicated to sign work
Smaller Triton routh with above the table crank to be dedicated to the Kreg router table
New Delta 6" rabbeting jointer
DeWalt 13" planer. I mounted it to a piece of 3/4 plywood and glued up MDF infeed and outfeed supports to the plywood then added cleats to match the vice jaws of an old Walmart workbench that I have had for years. I can easily remove the planer if I need to use the banch for other crafts
Rigid Miter Saw mounted on a Ryobi stand. I mounted it to a small piece of old kitchen counter top and then to the Ryobi stand because it would not attach directly
Knock-down rack to hold 2×4's. Once I complete the basement bar that I am building I will knock this down and store it for later use
Cut off cart and left end of sheet goods cart both of which are mounted on casters
Lumber carts and stacked lumber in the background against the wall
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I agree, nice collection of tools and great storage/use ideas. I like the removable planer table idea. I haven't decided what to do with mine yet and I'll have to through this into the possible idea list too.More photos of tools and shop
As you can see to date I have added some lumber storage (Triton metal racks) and shop built cut-off and sheet goods racks on casters as well as a rack to hold 2×4's or molding off the floor. We have also added more tools to the collection. I really need to get all this stuff organized. I'm still looking for thin walled 4" PVC to create a main line and drops for the new DC. The small system I started out with works pretty good for the band saw table saw and not so well with the miter saw. It definitely is not enough for the jointer, 22/44 sander of the thickness planer. I plan to connect one branch of the new DC to the jointer, planer, and sander. The other branch will connect to the TS band saw and Miter saw using a reducer to drop from 4" to the existing 2 1/2 ducting I already have in place. I have two shop vacs a new stainless steel Rigid model that I am going to dedicate to the router table and another old one for general shop cleanup. I also plan to add a floor sweep station near the galvanized can with the cyclone top that is going to be used as a pre-separator. I hope you all enjoy the photos and I most definitely welcome comments and or suggestions on how I could improve my setup.
I mounted an old piece of kitchen cabinet to the wall under the window and use small file cabinets to make a desk
Rigid TS and small 1HP DC system connected to Rigid DC tubing…it works but is not powerful enough
Another view of Rigid TS
Rigid band saw still connected to the small DC system
JET 2/44 Sander
Another view of the JET sander
My wife likes to do Intarsia so we have an area for her sanders, scrolll saw and a small old drill press
Drill press…we want to get a larger one down the road
Kreg Router table…still need to drill out the mounting plate for the new small Triton router but have to get longer mounting screws first
Large Triton plunge router I got to augment my old Skill plunge router that is now dedicated to sign work
Smaller Triton routh with above the table crank to be dedicated to the Kreg router table
New Delta 6" rabbeting jointer
DeWalt 13" planer. I mounted it to a piece of 3/4 plywood and glued up MDF infeed and outfeed supports to the plywood then added cleats to match the vice jaws of an old Walmart workbench that I have had for years. I can easily remove the planer if I need to use the banch for other crafts
Rigid Miter Saw mounted on a Ryobi stand. I mounted it to a small piece of old kitchen counter top and then to the Ryobi stand because it would not attach directly
Knock-down rack to hold 2×4's. Once I complete the basement bar that I am building I will knock this down and store it for later use
Cut off cart and left end of sheet goods cart both of which are mounted on casters
Lumber carts and stacked lumber in the background against the wall
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Can I come over to work on some projects? PLEASE! I promise to behave myself and occasionally let you use your own tools. LOL Nice shop, great tools and a wife who likes woodworking - who says you can't have your cake and eat it too?More photos of tools and shop
As you can see to date I have added some lumber storage (Triton metal racks) and shop built cut-off and sheet goods racks on casters as well as a rack to hold 2×4's or molding off the floor. We have also added more tools to the collection. I really need to get all this stuff organized. I'm still looking for thin walled 4" PVC to create a main line and drops for the new DC. The small system I started out with works pretty good for the band saw table saw and not so well with the miter saw. It definitely is not enough for the jointer, 22/44 sander of the thickness planer. I plan to connect one branch of the new DC to the jointer, planer, and sander. The other branch will connect to the TS band saw and Miter saw using a reducer to drop from 4" to the existing 2 1/2 ducting I already have in place. I have two shop vacs a new stainless steel Rigid model that I am going to dedicate to the router table and another old one for general shop cleanup. I also plan to add a floor sweep station near the galvanized can with the cyclone top that is going to be used as a pre-separator. I hope you all enjoy the photos and I most definitely welcome comments and or suggestions on how I could improve my setup.
I mounted an old piece of kitchen cabinet to the wall under the window and use small file cabinets to make a desk
Rigid TS and small 1HP DC system connected to Rigid DC tubing…it works but is not powerful enough
Another view of Rigid TS
Rigid band saw still connected to the small DC system
JET 2/44 Sander
Another view of the JET sander
My wife likes to do Intarsia so we have an area for her sanders, scrolll saw and a small old drill press
Drill press…we want to get a larger one down the road
Kreg Router table…still need to drill out the mounting plate for the new small Triton router but have to get longer mounting screws first
Large Triton plunge router I got to augment my old Skill plunge router that is now dedicated to sign work
Smaller Triton routh with above the table crank to be dedicated to the Kreg router table
New Delta 6" rabbeting jointer
DeWalt 13" planer. I mounted it to a piece of 3/4 plywood and glued up MDF infeed and outfeed supports to the plywood then added cleats to match the vice jaws of an old Walmart workbench that I have had for years. I can easily remove the planer if I need to use the banch for other crafts
Rigid Miter Saw mounted on a Ryobi stand. I mounted it to a small piece of old kitchen counter top and then to the Ryobi stand because it would not attach directly
Knock-down rack to hold 2×4's. Once I complete the basement bar that I am building I will knock this down and store it for later use
Cut off cart and left end of sheet goods cart both of which are mounted on casters
Lumber carts and stacked lumber in the background against the wall
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That's a lot of pipe.Dust Collection System to date
After locating some 4" "green" sewer and drain line; I started to connect the dust collector. By using a series of "y's", elbows, and blast gates I was able to make a main branch that will run to the jointer, planer and large sander; a branch to a floor sweep, and a branch to the existing 2" duct line. I still have the second 4" connector on the main DC free for expansion if needed. So far I have just "friction fitted" these connections and they seem to work fine. I had to use two short pieces of flex hose when making the stack connections because I couldn't find any 22 1/2 degree elbows that fit my drain pipe.
NOTE: I used ball type swivels on the drops from the main branch to allow the drops to be repositioned so that flex hoses from these drops could be connected to more than one machine.
DC, CYCLONE, RISER STACK AND 1st DROP OFF OF MAIN BRANCH
CYCLONE & FLOOR SWEEP
RISER STACK FROM CYCLONE
ANOTHER VIEW OF STACK UP FROM CYCLONE
LINE CONNECTING 4"LINE TO EXISTING 2" LINE
ANOTHER VIEW OF BRANCH CONNECTING 4"TO EXISTING 2" LINE
FIRST DROP OFF OF MAIN LINE
END DROP WITH CLEAN-OUT PLUG
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How about grounding ?Dust Collection System to date
After locating some 4" "green" sewer and drain line; I started to connect the dust collector. By using a series of "y's", elbows, and blast gates I was able to make a main branch that will run to the jointer, planer and large sander; a branch to a floor sweep, and a branch to the existing 2" duct line. I still have the second 4" connector on the main DC free for expansion if needed. So far I have just "friction fitted" these connections and they seem to work fine. I had to use two short pieces of flex hose when making the stack connections because I couldn't find any 22 1/2 degree elbows that fit my drain pipe.
NOTE: I used ball type swivels on the drops from the main branch to allow the drops to be repositioned so that flex hoses from these drops could be connected to more than one machine.
DC, CYCLONE, RISER STACK AND 1st DROP OFF OF MAIN BRANCH
CYCLONE & FLOOR SWEEP
RISER STACK FROM CYCLONE
ANOTHER VIEW OF STACK UP FROM CYCLONE
LINE CONNECTING 4"LINE TO EXISTING 2" LINE
ANOTHER VIEW OF BRANCH CONNECTING 4"TO EXISTING 2" LINE
FIRST DROP OFF OF MAIN LINE
END DROP WITH CLEAN-OUT PLUG
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As far as grounding goes, I did buy about 50' of bare stranded copper wire to do just that but after reading the excellent article link Patrick Jaromin posted in his blog entry http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/pjaromin/blog/3412 about dust collection myths http://home.comcast.net/~rodec/woodworking/articles/DC_myths.html I decided to forgo inside grounding and will ground the outside of the ducts with a spiral wrap of the bare stranded wire if i seem to be developing a bit of static.Dust Collection System to date
After locating some 4" "green" sewer and drain line; I started to connect the dust collector. By using a series of "y's", elbows, and blast gates I was able to make a main branch that will run to the jointer, planer and large sander; a branch to a floor sweep, and a branch to the existing 2" duct line. I still have the second 4" connector on the main DC free for expansion if needed. So far I have just "friction fitted" these connections and they seem to work fine. I had to use two short pieces of flex hose when making the stack connections because I couldn't find any 22 1/2 degree elbows that fit my drain pipe.
NOTE: I used ball type swivels on the drops from the main branch to allow the drops to be repositioned so that flex hoses from these drops could be connected to more than one machine.
DC, CYCLONE, RISER STACK AND 1st DROP OFF OF MAIN BRANCH
CYCLONE & FLOOR SWEEP
RISER STACK FROM CYCLONE
ANOTHER VIEW OF STACK UP FROM CYCLONE
LINE CONNECTING 4"LINE TO EXISTING 2" LINE
ANOTHER VIEW OF BRANCH CONNECTING 4"TO EXISTING 2" LINE
FIRST DROP OFF OF MAIN LINE
END DROP WITH CLEAN-OUT PLUG
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Thanks for the post. I am considering adding a system to my shop. This gives me some ideas on how to plan the system.Dust Collection System to date
After locating some 4" "green" sewer and drain line; I started to connect the dust collector. By using a series of "y's", elbows, and blast gates I was able to make a main branch that will run to the jointer, planer and large sander; a branch to a floor sweep, and a branch to the existing 2" duct line. I still have the second 4" connector on the main DC free for expansion if needed. So far I have just "friction fitted" these connections and they seem to work fine. I had to use two short pieces of flex hose when making the stack connections because I couldn't find any 22 1/2 degree elbows that fit my drain pipe.
NOTE: I used ball type swivels on the drops from the main branch to allow the drops to be repositioned so that flex hoses from these drops could be connected to more than one machine.
DC, CYCLONE, RISER STACK AND 1st DROP OFF OF MAIN BRANCH
CYCLONE & FLOOR SWEEP
RISER STACK FROM CYCLONE
ANOTHER VIEW OF STACK UP FROM CYCLONE
LINE CONNECTING 4"LINE TO EXISTING 2" LINE
ANOTHER VIEW OF BRANCH CONNECTING 4"TO EXISTING 2" LINE
FIRST DROP OFF OF MAIN LINE
END DROP WITH CLEAN-OUT PLUG
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I am in need of something like this but can only aford a 1 hp system, i have a small garage shop any sugestionsDust Collection System to date
After locating some 4" "green" sewer and drain line; I started to connect the dust collector. By using a series of "y's", elbows, and blast gates I was able to make a main branch that will run to the jointer, planer and large sander; a branch to a floor sweep, and a branch to the existing 2" duct line. I still have the second 4" connector on the main DC free for expansion if needed. So far I have just "friction fitted" these connections and they seem to work fine. I had to use two short pieces of flex hose when making the stack connections because I couldn't find any 22 1/2 degree elbows that fit my drain pipe.
NOTE: I used ball type swivels on the drops from the main branch to allow the drops to be repositioned so that flex hoses from these drops could be connected to more than one machine.
DC, CYCLONE, RISER STACK AND 1st DROP OFF OF MAIN BRANCH
CYCLONE & FLOOR SWEEP
RISER STACK FROM CYCLONE
ANOTHER VIEW OF STACK UP FROM CYCLONE
LINE CONNECTING 4"LINE TO EXISTING 2" LINE
ANOTHER VIEW OF BRANCH CONNECTING 4"TO EXISTING 2" LINE
FIRST DROP OFF OF MAIN LINE
END DROP WITH CLEAN-OUT PLUG
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Mine isn't grounded either. I read the same information the toolz did.Dust Collection System to date
After locating some 4" "green" sewer and drain line; I started to connect the dust collector. By using a series of "y's", elbows, and blast gates I was able to make a main branch that will run to the jointer, planer and large sander; a branch to a floor sweep, and a branch to the existing 2" duct line. I still have the second 4" connector on the main DC free for expansion if needed. So far I have just "friction fitted" these connections and they seem to work fine. I had to use two short pieces of flex hose when making the stack connections because I couldn't find any 22 1/2 degree elbows that fit my drain pipe.
NOTE: I used ball type swivels on the drops from the main branch to allow the drops to be repositioned so that flex hoses from these drops could be connected to more than one machine.
DC, CYCLONE, RISER STACK AND 1st DROP OFF OF MAIN BRANCH
CYCLONE & FLOOR SWEEP
RISER STACK FROM CYCLONE
ANOTHER VIEW OF STACK UP FROM CYCLONE
LINE CONNECTING 4"LINE TO EXISTING 2" LINE
ANOTHER VIEW OF BRANCH CONNECTING 4"TO EXISTING 2" LINE
FIRST DROP OFF OF MAIN LINE
END DROP WITH CLEAN-OUT PLUG
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MarkN I initially bought a 1HP portable DC system from Harbor Freight http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=31810Dust Collection System to date
After locating some 4" "green" sewer and drain line; I started to connect the dust collector. By using a series of "y's", elbows, and blast gates I was able to make a main branch that will run to the jointer, planer and large sander; a branch to a floor sweep, and a branch to the existing 2" duct line. I still have the second 4" connector on the main DC free for expansion if needed. So far I have just "friction fitted" these connections and they seem to work fine. I had to use two short pieces of flex hose when making the stack connections because I couldn't find any 22 1/2 degree elbows that fit my drain pipe.
NOTE: I used ball type swivels on the drops from the main branch to allow the drops to be repositioned so that flex hoses from these drops could be connected to more than one machine.
DC, CYCLONE, RISER STACK AND 1st DROP OFF OF MAIN BRANCH
CYCLONE & FLOOR SWEEP
RISER STACK FROM CYCLONE
ANOTHER VIEW OF STACK UP FROM CYCLONE
LINE CONNECTING 4"LINE TO EXISTING 2" LINE
ANOTHER VIEW OF BRANCH CONNECTING 4"TO EXISTING 2" LINE
FIRST DROP OFF OF MAIN LINE
END DROP WITH CLEAN-OUT PLUG
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