For me, the answer would be NO to replacement, or saw buying UNLESS this is but one of many issues with the saw. Then it may be a reason to spend. Otherwise I can't see wrapping the arbor with a wrap of tape as being more than a few seconds to accomplish. I'd keep wrapping.
problem with table saw arbor?
All,
I recently became interested in making boxes and box joints. I have a low-end dado stack but I was not liking the cut so I bought a 8" box and finger joint set for 1/4" and 3/8" joints. Cuts like a dream except for one issue.
When I cut my first 1/4" box joint I noticed that the bottom was not flat. There was a small but definite step on the left side of the cut. Same for the 3/8". I called the manufacturer and the gentleman there suggested that the table saw arbor was the likely problem. He said that sometimes in the the transition from the threads to the the solid shoulder that the arbor might be slightly under sized, causing the 2 blades to be misaligned, resulting in the step. He suggested wrapping that part of the arbor with electrical tape and the 2 blades should align. I did that and indeed the 2 blades now align almost perfectly. I can still see a step but it is EXTREMELY small, so small I don't think it will be a problem.
Electrical tape is certainly cheap and effective but does not seem to be a long term solution. My table saw is a late-70s Craftsman 113. Is this something that is really common (must be if he suggested it)? I should be concerned? Should I be looking at replacing the arbor? Or a new, better saw? I would love one but justifying that expense at this stage is tough.
Thanks in advance for your help.
I recently became interested in making boxes and box joints. I have a low-end dado stack but I was not liking the cut so I bought a 8" box and finger joint set for 1/4" and 3/8" joints. Cuts like a dream except for one issue.
When I cut my first 1/4" box joint I noticed that the bottom was not flat. There was a small but definite step on the left side of the cut. Same for the 3/8". I called the manufacturer and the gentleman there suggested that the table saw arbor was the likely problem. He said that sometimes in the the transition from the threads to the the solid shoulder that the arbor might be slightly under sized, causing the 2 blades to be misaligned, resulting in the step. He suggested wrapping that part of the arbor with electrical tape and the 2 blades should align. I did that and indeed the 2 blades now align almost perfectly. I can still see a step but it is EXTREMELY small, so small I don't think it will be a problem.
Electrical tape is certainly cheap and effective but does not seem to be a long term solution. My table saw is a late-70s Craftsman 113. Is this something that is really common (must be if he suggested it)? I should be concerned? Should I be looking at replacing the arbor? Or a new, better saw? I would love one but justifying that expense at this stage is tough.
Thanks in advance for your help.
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
There is nothing wrong with your blade, the arbor shaft, or your saw. The part of your arbor shaft where the blade normally sits is solid (unthreaded). When you start stacking blades you are eventually going to get to the point (very quickly normally) where they are sitting on the threads which may be softer and slightly undersized. If it is undersized the blade will be slightly off center allowing it to take a deeper cut each time it spins around. Think of a camshaft on an engine. You may notice a slight vibration with the dado blade on also as it will be slightly out of balance.
I'm with woodsman on this one. I don't think it's normal or acceptable to be able to wrap your arbor with electrical tape and still fit a blade on it. That part of your arbor is undersized or not meant to hold a blade.
For instance my tablesaw arbor is a odd 3/4 size. I get my blades bored for a very snug fit. I doubt I could fit a 1thou shim in.
Good Luck
For instance my tablesaw arbor is a odd 3/4 size. I get my blades bored for a very snug fit. I doubt I could fit a 1thou shim in.
Good Luck
To this I'll add, some saws have an acme thread on the arbor allowing the plate of a blade to ride concentric with the arbor regardless of location. There are many saws that do not have this creating the problem you're describing.
instead of shimming your arbor to make the diameter match, shim the blades further over until they are on the good section of arbor. You might even be able to use a smaller saw blade. Or dado shims, or maybe even get lucky at the hardware store and find a bushing/washer or the like.
Thanks, everyone, for your input. Perhaps this explains why I was unhappy with my dado stack cut. I will have to do some experiments.
All of this makes one wonder why TS manufacturers don't cut the arbors with stacked blades specifically in mind - they are extremely popular after all. All it would mean is a longer flat portion for the blades to ride on, shorter threads, and one or two spacers on the nut side. A topic for another day…
Thanks again!
All of this makes one wonder why TS manufacturers don't cut the arbors with stacked blades specifically in mind - they are extremely popular after all. All it would mean is a longer flat portion for the blades to ride on, shorter threads, and one or two spacers on the nut side. A topic for another day…
Thanks again!
My old saw, an early 90's Craftsman, had the same issue. I was able to fill this depression in the shaft using some JB Weld. I overfilled the area and kept turning the arbor slowly in attempt to keep the filler from sagging. If I remember correctly, I used the JB quick weld as it did not need the strength of the regular. After the filler dried I used a mill file to level with the shaft. The JB weld is soft enough it can be filed to be level without damaging the shaft.
This gave me the results I was after leaving a level surface on the shaft transition from smooth to threads and eliminated uneavenesss in my dado set.
This gave me the results I was after leaving a level surface on the shaft transition from smooth to threads and eliminated uneavenesss in my dado set.
And if they did extend the the smooth part of the shaft and add spacer we would be having the opposite discussion. "Why don't they just make the shaft shorter or extend the threads and eliminate the need for the spacers because I have never used a stacked dado set." You can't appease everybody. I have a stacked dado set. I have nothing against it, it's high quality and works fine. I haven't used it in 10 years, just haven't had the need for it. I prefer to use a router. I also now have a Saw Stop table saw so I would have to buy a new insert and a new cartridge to use the dado set so it may never get used again. Like Yeti stated many saws have acme threads so only a few saws have the issue.Thanks, everyone, for your input. Perhaps this explains why I was unhappy with my dado stack cut. I will have to do some experiments.
All of this makes one wonder why TS manufacturers don t cut the arbors with stacked blades specifically in mind - they are extremely popular after all. All it would mean is a longer flat portion for the blades to ride on, shorter threads, and one or two spacers on the nut side. A topic for another day…
Thanks again!
- OxfordChipper
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
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