LumberJocks Woodworking Forum banner
  • Please post in our Community Feedback thread for help with the new forum software! If you are having trouble logging in, please Contact Us for assistance.
1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,509 Posts
I just got a (new from Harbor Freight) pressure pot I want to stabilize some burl, infuse some woods with color and make plastic resin for pens.

I got it all set up. All the threaded parts are fine and do not leak.

But there is a leak around the seal. Sometimes as much as 2-3 inches.
I've tightened down the clamps as much as I can with my hands.
I ran some vasoline along the edge. No help.

I'd appreciate any suggestions on how to solve the condition.

Lee
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,820 Posts
Warped? Send it back.
OR…double or triple the gasket thickness. I use old bicycle inner tubes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,509 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Does not appear warped.

I'm told I can infuse the wood at 40 psi and the pot is rated for 70 psi. I've only pressurized it to 40 psi.

There is a rubber seal on the lid and the rim has no noticeable dings. I do not know how supple the rubber seal is.

Karson, i've seen that there is a method to use vacuum to infuse the wood as well as pressure. I may try both over time.

I'll see if I can find another (or a replacement) seal.

Lee
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35,383 Posts
Lee: I was thinking about using a quart mason jar inside the pressure pot. Put the stabilizer inside the jar and the wood. Vacuum the pot for a day or two. Then pressure it. The mason jar will not break because the pressure is equalized on all sides.

I think that it might work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,509 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Logically if you vacuum out the air from the pores in the wood the void will be filled by the liquid.
Similarly, if you press the liquid into the wood it will push the air out of the pores.

I know that the people who commercially do the stabilizing use pressure.

I was thinking of using a small pan.

I'll probably try a number of different ways.
First, I have to stop the pot from leaking.

Lee
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,509 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Jim,
It is my patriotic duty to buy crappy stuff from China.
If I don't help lower the trade balance China will call the notes and I will have to learn to speak Chinese.
I never graduated from high school because I could not learn a foreign language, at least not the way they taught it.

Lee
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,509 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Inside the lid there is welded a thin metal band. The gasket sets in the groove defined by the edge of the lid and this band.
The welds were sloppy and lumpy on the inside of the band, between the band and the lip.
I ground down the bumps.
The gasket has a smooth side and a ribbed side. I assume that the rib is supposed to fit over the lip of the pot.
Now, instead of all the air leaking out in 3 minutes it took about 30 minutes to lose 30 PSI. I'll switch the gasket around the next time to see which way works better.

The goal is to stabilize pen blanks and to make plastic resin pen blanks so I think I am at a stage where I will be able to use this pot. The "brand name" pressure pots were more than $350.00

Lee
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,466 Posts
Lee, I went to an antique shop, the kind that sells lots of junk too and bought an old canning pot. Has the pressure gage and all. The seals are still available. No where near $350 and they work well…
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
350 Posts
What you should have done when you first got it was use some wd40 around the gasket to make it supple. Then you crank the opposite clamps abit and then the other 2 clamps and continue in this manner untill all are tight. You should also mark the tank and lid with a witness mark so that you place the lid back in the same place every time. Now eventually the gasket will need to be replaced. Make sure you do not go above the rated pressure. They have been known to explode.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,509 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I did not use WD40 but it is not too late.
I always crank the clamps like tightening a car tire lug.
I thought about just getting a new, probably better quality, gasket at Ames.
Karson, after I went there I realized I had read it before. I, too, am thinking of drilling the tube hole first.
Like I said, I got the Pen Wizard this week and JR rounds his blanks on the router table before he drills them on the lather. That would remove even more wood to make it easier to stablilize.
Lot's of ways to experiment.

Lee
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
i used a method i found here…http://www.woodturningvideosplus.com/wood-stabilization.html on some burl and flaming box elder. i could not even drill the elder without it splitting between the white & red wood. i left the blanks soak over night in the 50/50 - lacquer & lacquer thinner then i let them dry for a few days. i've finished 4 pens out of the 8 i soaked with no issues.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,101 Posts
get a gasket sheet from a auto supplier, use a compass and make a gasket…..benn there, done that and it worked.

just a note. Make sure the ingredients, chemicals etc put into tthe PP are compatible with the PP. Some liquids, especially under pressure can become quite explosive, like an IED. If you are unsure…..then dont do it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,509 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Chip
I'm down to losing 40 PSI in 50 minutes.

When I get the time I plan to take the fittings off and use more of the plumbing tape on the threads. I only wrapped them one time and its been suggested that 4-5 turns would be better.

The WD40 tip helped a lot.

I do think that I should get another gasket as this one is fairly rigid or not too supple. Some experimentation.

It is also good to mark where the lid is in relation to the pot. Once you get a good fit it seems to hold the pressure more if you put the lid back in the same position.

I've stablilzed aboutg a dozen more blanks and the results have been acceptable. I try to start the process whenn I get in the shop so I can "recharge" the pot 3-4 times before I have to quit. They are not so dense as from a commercial service but they have sealed some of the more pulpy and porous woods so that I can turn them and they have not lost color.

I've been using Pentacryl but am going to try another brand when this runs out.

Lee
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top