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This is not answering your question but….A pair of holdfast from TFWW are less than $35 USD, I doubt you can get your current holdfasts sandblasted and powder coated for much less. In addition the Gramercy holdfasts are the best I've used. I'm not sure if powder coated holdfasts would have enough "tooth".
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply. Those are the exact holdfasts I have. I checked with a local shop and it would run about $20 to get them blasted and coated. I was wondering about the "tooth" factor, but figured the powder coating is lightly textured and could work.
 

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Probably so. That being said, I'd still ask opinions here about less slick rust inhibitors. Chances are, you have other tools that could benefit from it as well.
 

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Thanks for the reply. Those are the exact holdfasts I have. I checked with a local shop and it would run about $20 to get them blasted and coated. I was wondering about the "tooth" factor, but figured the powder coating is lightly textured and could work.

- mdraft
hummmm….I've had mine in my shop for several years with no maintenance and no rust. Could be because I live in the desert or maybe because they are in constant use. Is your bench Oak?

Just a suggestion: if you do decide to powder coat take a cold chisel and put some very light grooves on the inside edge to help with the hold. Please post your results, I'd like to know.

ken
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for all the replies. My bench is pretty new so thats definitely worth considering. I also live in Michigan (and my bench is in the garage) my guess is the ambiant humidity is playing a role in the rust. its pretty light surface rust, but I would prefer to not have to worry about it. Anyone have experience with powder coating? Would the surface hold up to being hit with a nylon faced hammer?
 

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I would not do it. You can wax them occasionally to prevent rust, but I think powder coating it would affect the ability for them to hold, considering the TFWW and my own DIY forged holdfasts need some course radial sanding to stay seated.
 

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I live in Western New York and humidity can get high here but all I do is just wipe down any bare steel tools with an old oily rag I've used while doing mechanic work. After a few times wiping them you end the rust problem. Of course you could oil them then wipe them down real good because you cannot actually rub all the oil off. Like my metal lathes and drill press table years of oil on them keeps them rust free and the surfaces don't transfer oil to the wood unless I forget to wipe them after using oil on them. The more you use a bare steel tool the more oil gets into it just from your hands but that takes many years.

MIKE
 

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I would clean them up real good, put a coat of clear spray on them and store them in a wood box or compartment if there is a bad rust problem. I keep wood covers on the ways and the vise on my mill and it keeps them rust free whereas they used to get pretty rusted over the winter with freezing and thawing..Jim
 
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