Planer Restoration: Fastener Breakdown Procedures
I just purchased my first tool restoration project - a Makita 2030N planer/jointer combo. It needs new rollers and some TLC. There is a fair amount of rust on some of the machined surfaces, some rust on the painted surfaces, and many of the fasteners need to be cleaned up as well. I began breakdown today, and most of it is straightforward. I'm documenting and organizing my parts thoroughly. I ran into a couple of parts which I don't know how to disassemble, and I need some help. My specific questions, with photos are below.
1. How do I remove the jointer carriage (side 1)? I would like to clean up various parts of it and check the bearings (both for good measure and the learning value). I'm not sure how to remove either side of the carriage assembly. The first side has a stainless/aluminum?? knob, which must be removed before the plate can be removed. It has some sort of hollow insert with a relief cut that appears to be the retainer. It doesn't appear to be allen/hex, although it is a bit obscured through corrosion. There is also a round opening in the center of the knob, but I don't think it is part of the removal process - again the corrosion confuses me. Here are two photos.
![Wood Gas Automotive exterior Metal Hardwood]()
![Wood Fixture Gas Surveillance camera Door]()
2. How do I remove the jointer carriage (side 2)? This side has a hub with lugs that lock into a mating surface on the planer drive unit (both the planer and jointer knives spin when the combo unit is powered on). The two possibilities I see on this end are some sort of hole perpendicular into the hub (appears empty) and a small cleat/key that appears to lock the hub to the shaft of the carriage assembly. There doesn't appear to be a way to access this cleat, as it is between the bearing and the hub. Here are two more photos.
![Wood Gas Automotive exterior Fixture Bathroom]()
![Brown Wood Tints and shades Rectangle Fixture]()
![Wood Gas Cylinder Brick Hardwood]()
3. There are also other examples of the retainer from question one in other areas of the tool. It's likely a standard connection method, but this is new ground for me. Here is a photo of the largest example, which retains the connection between one of the 4 planer columns and the top assembly of the planer.
![Wood Gas Auto part Machine Metal]()
4. Finally, I'm likely to have several questions throughout this process. What is the best way to ask a series of questions on the same project? Is it more appropriate to post blog entries to document the process and ask questions where they arise, or to submit individual forum questions as they come up (apologies in advance if it's the former, as I just submitted another question regarding paint!)??
Any help a fellow LJ can provide would be much appreciated. One of my primary goals in this project is to learn some of these standard machine assembly methods. I would like to know the proper way to remove and reinstall these fasteners. I realize that a BFH may be required at some point, but I want to make sure it's employed in the right way/place if necessary! Thanks in advance for your help! My Makita and I appreciate it!
Will, Baltimore
1. How do I remove the jointer carriage (side 1)? I would like to clean up various parts of it and check the bearings (both for good measure and the learning value). I'm not sure how to remove either side of the carriage assembly. The first side has a stainless/aluminum?? knob, which must be removed before the plate can be removed. It has some sort of hollow insert with a relief cut that appears to be the retainer. It doesn't appear to be allen/hex, although it is a bit obscured through corrosion. There is also a round opening in the center of the knob, but I don't think it is part of the removal process - again the corrosion confuses me. Here are two photos.
2. How do I remove the jointer carriage (side 2)? This side has a hub with lugs that lock into a mating surface on the planer drive unit (both the planer and jointer knives spin when the combo unit is powered on). The two possibilities I see on this end are some sort of hole perpendicular into the hub (appears empty) and a small cleat/key that appears to lock the hub to the shaft of the carriage assembly. There doesn't appear to be a way to access this cleat, as it is between the bearing and the hub. Here are two more photos.
3. There are also other examples of the retainer from question one in other areas of the tool. It's likely a standard connection method, but this is new ground for me. Here is a photo of the largest example, which retains the connection between one of the 4 planer columns and the top assembly of the planer.
4. Finally, I'm likely to have several questions throughout this process. What is the best way to ask a series of questions on the same project? Is it more appropriate to post blog entries to document the process and ask questions where they arise, or to submit individual forum questions as they come up (apologies in advance if it's the former, as I just submitted another question regarding paint!)??
Any help a fellow LJ can provide would be much appreciated. One of my primary goals in this project is to learn some of these standard machine assembly methods. I would like to know the proper way to remove and reinstall these fasteners. I realize that a BFH may be required at some point, but I want to make sure it's employed in the right way/place if necessary! Thanks in advance for your help! My Makita and I appreciate it!
Will, Baltimore
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roptics - The jointer is held to the planer body by 4 bolts and 2 roll pins. The roll pins are between the upper and lower bolts on each end. PB Blaster and the other arsenal of counter rust products will help. Mine was already apart when I purchased it, so I didn't wrestle with these. I find it nice to have the roll pins left in the planer body so I can line up the jointer when reassembling it. However, you may find it easier to reinstall the bolts, work on the roll pins, and remove the bolts once the roll pins are out. See the photo below for a look at the planner frame with the roll pins to the jointer still installed. Hope this helps.
![Gas Machine Wood Metal Automotive design]()
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Both of those parts appear to still be available, even through Amazon!
232076-1 At Amazon
257589-1 At Amazon
(both appear to be sourced from toolpartsdirect though)
ereplacementparts seems to have at least the sleeve as well::
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(They show 2 in stock)
Cheers,
Brad
232076-1 At Amazon
257589-1 At Amazon
(both appear to be sourced from toolpartsdirect though)
ereplacementparts seems to have at least the sleeve as well::
(They show 2 in stock)
Cheers,
Brad
If it helps any - the 2030 is similar to the 2030N, but instead of a sleeve, it uses a spring/washer to maintain tension on the infeed table… it might be a suitable workaround (or maybe even better) solution. The table is held in place by the ways anyway, so that bolt just provides enough pressure to keep it snug:
![Hood Azure Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive exterior]()
If you want to try and fabricate the sleeve yourself, all you need is a piece that fits in the slot in the table and still allows the bolt to pass through it. A suitable sized pipe cut to length would probably work just fine. I doubt it would have to be exact, as it's just acting as a bushing. Should be just a hair short of passing all the way through the table slot so the bolt/washer has enough play to engage the table.
Cheers,
Brad
If you want to try and fabricate the sleeve yourself, all you need is a piece that fits in the slot in the table and still allows the bolt to pass through it. A suitable sized pipe cut to length would probably work just fine. I doubt it would have to be exact, as it's just acting as a bushing. Should be just a hair short of passing all the way through the table slot so the bolt/washer has enough play to engage the table.
Cheers,
Brad
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