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Planer Restoration: Fastener Breakdown Procedures

4040 Views 15 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  ShanghaiPete
I just purchased my first tool restoration project - a Makita 2030N planer/jointer combo. It needs new rollers and some TLC. There is a fair amount of rust on some of the machined surfaces, some rust on the painted surfaces, and many of the fasteners need to be cleaned up as well. I began breakdown today, and most of it is straightforward. I'm documenting and organizing my parts thoroughly. I ran into a couple of parts which I don't know how to disassemble, and I need some help. My specific questions, with photos are below.

1. How do I remove the jointer carriage (side 1)? I would like to clean up various parts of it and check the bearings (both for good measure and the learning value). I'm not sure how to remove either side of the carriage assembly. The first side has a stainless/aluminum?? knob, which must be removed before the plate can be removed. It has some sort of hollow insert with a relief cut that appears to be the retainer. It doesn't appear to be allen/hex, although it is a bit obscured through corrosion. There is also a round opening in the center of the knob, but I don't think it is part of the removal process - again the corrosion confuses me. Here are two photos.

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2. How do I remove the jointer carriage (side 2)? This side has a hub with lugs that lock into a mating surface on the planer drive unit (both the planer and jointer knives spin when the combo unit is powered on). The two possibilities I see on this end are some sort of hole perpendicular into the hub (appears empty) and a small cleat/key that appears to lock the hub to the shaft of the carriage assembly. There doesn't appear to be a way to access this cleat, as it is between the bearing and the hub. Here are two more photos.

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3. There are also other examples of the retainer from question one in other areas of the tool. It's likely a standard connection method, but this is new ground for me. Here is a photo of the largest example, which retains the connection between one of the 4 planer columns and the top assembly of the planer.

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4. Finally, I'm likely to have several questions throughout this process. What is the best way to ask a series of questions on the same project? Is it more appropriate to post blog entries to document the process and ask questions where they arise, or to submit individual forum questions as they come up (apologies in advance if it's the former, as I just submitted another question regarding paint!)??

Any help a fellow LJ can provide would be much appreciated. One of my primary goals in this project is to learn some of these standard machine assembly methods. I would like to know the proper way to remove and reinstall these fasteners. I realize that a BFH may be required at some point, but I want to make sure it's employed in the right way/place if necessary! Thanks in advance for your help! My Makita and I appreciate it!

Will, Baltimore


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I think I would make liberal use of PB Blaster, Panther Piss or your favorite rust buster solvent.

Then, have you looked at the parts blow up for the machine on Click Here

Here is the owners manual and the parts breakdown from Makita Click Here

I hope that helps!
Side one pic 2 looks to be a stripped Allen screw. WD 40 and a Allen wrench the correct size should get that out. The other side the same thing. It also looks to have a key on the shaft. The last photo is a roll pin, take an all or a punch and you should be able to drive it out the other side. You can get all these fasteners at an auto parts store like Napa.
I am new to lumberjocks so this is my first post/question. I have a makita planer-jointer 2030n with a broken infeed roller. do I have to buy a new roller or is there a place that repairs the old one
Dallas - Good call on the diagram. I had seen this, but didn't think of it as a resource for figuring out what retainers are included. Based on that…
1. The retainer on the knob is a "Spring Pin 4-32." Does that give anyone insight into how it is removed? Sounds like it is not just a corroded hex or allen head.
2. Looks like there may be a "Hex. Socket Head Bolt M5X18" missing from the hole perpendicular to the shaft. Maybe this is ready to come off already with some rust solvent and physical encouragement?

Thanks for the explanation on the roll pin. I'll do some quick research before I take force to it, but I at least know the label and general idea now.

Chipduster -
I replied via personal message. Western Roller Corp seems best for recovering rollers. If you need a replacement, ereplacement parts has a listing for it.
Thanks for the help. I removed most of the fasteners this evening. PB Blaster helped loosen things. The grey knob had a roll pin. A screw of a slightly smaller diameter than the opening worked well as a punch. The rusted hub was missing the hex bolt retainer, so the hub came of after loosening the rust and applying some leverage. I still need to tackle some larger roll pins holding the four columns to the head assembly, but it should be easy now that I know what I'm dealing with.

Thanks for the help.

I have used Griffith Polymers in Tualatin, OR to recover rollers for 13" and 15" Makita planers. You have to decide how dense you want the urethane.
I just purchased a 2030N and I have a few questions. How do you remove the the Jointer from the main body? I removed the four bolts from the main body but the jointer bed doesn't budge. I removed the intake side so it is just the main jointer carriage and the outfeed bed that need to come off.
I've got two Makita 2030's, not the 2030N, so mine is just slightly different, but probably close enough.

The knob shown in photo 1 has a spring pin that needs to be driven out with a punch. After that, you can remove the knob, then the four bolts and press the shaft out from the bearing that is recessed on the opposite side.

The 'carriage' shown in #2 is set on the shaft with a set screw, so you need to loosen it with an allen key. It's a bear to get off, but with some good penetrating oil and a little prying it will eventually come off. Keep in mind, there is another bearing just behind it that the shaft also needs to be removed from. On mine, there is no easy access, so a large crow bar and bearing 'pickle' fork worked great from underneath. Only a couple of scraped knuckles on that one.

The fastener for question #3 is also a spring pin.. drive it out with a suitable sized punch and mallet. You will find one on both the top and bottom of each post.

As for removing the upper and lower main castings from the posts.. I'm still working on that and have been for over two months.. gone through a couple cans of PB Blaster, WD-40, diesel/ATF and it's still hanging tough, even after heating with a propane torch and when trying to use hydraulic jacks to increase the separation force. Fortunately, one of my 2030's is in like new condition and working just fine, so I can take my time on the other one which is currently in about a zillion pieces sealed in bags and small boxes waiting for cleaning and paint.

For rollers, I had mine done at Western Roller and they came out great.. just send them the shaft and they will clean it up and apply the proper thickness/hardness urethane.. no need to specify anything, as they have done a bunch of them and already know what is required. Highly recommended.

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roptics - The jointer is held to the planer body by 4 bolts and 2 roll pins. The roll pins are between the upper and lower bolts on each end. PB Blaster and the other arsenal of counter rust products will help. Mine was already apart when I purchased it, so I didn't wrestle with these. I find it nice to have the roll pins left in the planer body so I can line up the jointer when reassembling it. However, you may find it easier to reinstall the bolts, work on the roll pins, and remove the bolts once the roll pins are out. See the photo below for a look at the planner frame with the roll pins to the jointer still installed. Hope this helps.

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Hello Will,

Do you have a photo of the conical washer (leaf spring #232076-1) and the sleeve 10 (257589-1) ? I've lost mine and I can't get replacements in via ereplacementparts. I think these are easily obtained parts but I don't know the specific specs and dimensions. I discovered that "leaf spring" is actually just a conical spring washer which are easy to find. I'd like to see how the screw, sleeve, washer go together on the bed so that I have a better chance of etting the correct part. Any help would be appreciated.


Can you orient me as to where these parts are found? Are you talking about the pieces that hold on the rollers in the bed?
Both of those parts appear to still be available, even through Amazon!

232076-1 At Amazon
257589-1 At Amazon
(both appear to be sourced from toolpartsdirect though)

ereplacementparts seems to have at least the sleeve as well::

(They show 2 in stock)

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These parts attach the input Jointer bed to the rest of the Jointer (missing piece in the first photo on this thread). I've contacted four different parts sellers and the all have the same lead time so I assume they're all coming from the same foreign supplier. With measurements I'm sure I can find equivalent parts. I could even make the spacer if I needed to.




Can you orient me as to where these parts are found? Are you talking about the pieces that hold on the rollers in the bed?

- Will_Wood
If it helps any - the 2030 is similar to the 2030N, but instead of a sleeve, it uses a spring/washer to maintain tension on the infeed table… it might be a suitable workaround (or maybe even better) solution. The table is held in place by the ways anyway, so that bolt just provides enough pressure to keep it snug:

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If you want to try and fabricate the sleeve yourself, all you need is a piece that fits in the slot in the table and still allows the bolt to pass through it. A suitable sized pipe cut to length would probably work just fine. I doubt it would have to be exact, as it's just acting as a bushing. Should be just a hair short of passing all the way through the table slot so the bolt/washer has enough play to engage the table.



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I'm in the process of restoring a 2030N in pretty good shape. I need to change the belt and get into the motor and was wondering if there was a trick to getting the belt off and removing the pulley on the shaft coming out of the motor. Any tips?
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