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Gas Wood Tints and shades Metal Visual arts


I picked this Stanley No. 4 up from the antique mall for 20 bucks. I've just about got it all clean (was very rusty and dirty). Anyway, I think this is either a Type 16 or 19. Can anyone help based on the pic provided below? Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well I've gotten it almost completely clean. I think I'll repaint the black areas. Any suggestion on paint type/brand? Also am going to try to sharpen. I've asked te question before but what grade of sharpening stone is ideal?
 

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Don W uses something like Ford Dupli-color Engine Paint (black). It works very well. For sharpening, lots of learning curve out there.

Many begin with some form of the scary sharp system. It's accessible and it does work, and people stick with it, too.There's oil stones from there, and water stones, with and without eclipse holding jigs (vs. freehand). Stones or sandpaper don't have ideal grits, but you work through the grits. Like when sanding a project through the grits. And that's where it's important to find a way, and stick with it before jumping from one to the other.

So, I'd say try scary sharp for awhile, to see what sharp is. Then consider one more step: oil or water. Oh, or DMTs.

:)

One thing I would suggest as a specific is to not sweat the uber-fine grits, like 8K stones. A strop, ala Paul Sellers, is very effective for final polish and does well to resurrect an edge quickly, too.

Anyway, some starting thoughts. Hope it's a help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I have sharpened this iron pretty well but am having some issues. I am experiencing a lot of tear-out. Certain areas of the grain are just ripping out in places. Could this be a situation where the surfaces aren't flush with one another (chip breaker to iron, frog to chipbreaker, etc.)?
 

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shouldn't really be taking a deep enough cut for chips, rather should be getting a shaving. To close up the mouth you move the frog forward a little, to narrow the gap between iron and the front of the mouth. What this does is makes the plane sole hold the wood down until right before it gets to the iron. Helps prevent tear out.

Silly question, but have you tried planing in the other direction when you're getting tear out? (Also, what kind of wood?)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yea maybe I was going too deep. I just had some really rough areas from nicks and such that I was trying to get out. But I guess that should be done with very little iron sticking out too eh?

It definitely was not as pronounced when I went the other way, but still happened a little. Could the least bit of the iron not being flush with the face of the frog cause it?

I posted the wood type ID a couple months ago. Have a look, but the general consensus was likely ash. It is At LEAST 50 years old, found in one of my barns and likely milled on site with their old woodsaw (the kind that attached to a PTO on a tractor to be driven).
 

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Try retracting the iron until it's not cutting anymore, then slowly advance the iron (once the depth adjustment wheel engages the iron). Try going 1/2 or 1/4 turns at a time until you get a shaving. You don't want very much sticking out at all.

You also want to make sure that the edge of the iron is sticking out the same distance all the way across the width of the iron, and not more on one side or the other, by using the lateral adjustment lever. There's usually a "right and wrong" way to plane (direction), so if it's better one way, then stick with that way. basically you don't want to plane against the grain, because what you're having issues with is a lot more prevalent, even if you have everything set up right.
 
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