[Smitty_Cabinetshop]

Gluing, pocket holes and stanley #45

Today I went ahead and got the boards for the top and sides all cut up. The sides are nice and straight. And we are gluing up the boards. I do them one board at a time. this way I have a better control over the alignment of the boards and I have to do less planing and or sanding later.

Below is an other picture with the designing of the dresser. I used a FWW magazine to get some inspiration on how the build the "guts" of a dresser. I need to see this coming together still. I am used to making cabinets with face frame, but you loose a lot of space behind the frame.

It's time to take the Kreg pocket hole jig out of the closet. I really like this jig. I have used this jig throughout my house for all the face frames on the cabinets and for straight board glue ups. Below are the inner members (dividers and guides?) of the dresser.

Sorry, this was not my picture, they used oak not pine. Besides that, my bench does not look as clean.

After the sides and top are dry, they come out of the clamps and they need to be flattened somewhat. I used the sander for this (no need for a picture here, what do you think?).

Next is the dado's in the sides for the drawer supports. For this I need to refer back to a project posted a while back. I was inspired by Marc Spagnuolo. He posted a jig that would making dado's very easy.
http://thewoodwhisperer.com/exact-width-dado-jig/

After looking at this video, I came up with a little different version of the jig:

'Never Fail' dado jig for the router



It is time to put the cabinet together. This is by far the hardest one I assembled. With all the dado's, I was not sure where to start.

It came together better than expected. One of the hardest parts was the compound inaccuracy of the dado's. You can not see it on the picture, but the bottom stretcher is slightly bowed because all the verticals a just a little too tall.

And than you find out you forgot something. I have a bad case of CRS (Can't Remember ********************). I forgot to put the rabbit in the back of the side panels for the 1/4 back. Now what…...

I don't know what you guys would have done in this case, I thought of making a jig for the router, but that was too much work. I thought of getting a chisel.
But than I remembered having a #45 sitting in a dusty corner. I had that thing for years, never used it. It was more a woodworkers collector thing. I dug it up and sharpened the blade. It took some setting up. Come parts were rusted up a little.

I was amazed how well old Betsy worked out, once set up it took less than 5 minutes per side to remove the wood.

Problem solved. On to the next thing.

As I mentioned, no dovetails and no wood-on-wood drawers. So I went to my favorite specialty hardware store, the Home Depot for drawer slides. And spend a life savings on this pile of hardware. (why did we need this many drawers again?)

For the drawers I like to use Baltic Birch. It is stable, it is straight and best of all, it was given to me by my friend.
One little problem is that the thickness is all over the board, so I need to watch it when cutting the front and back to size. This was going to be an issue anyway, because not all openings are exactly the same.
Did I mention that I have a bad case of CRS…. So I use the cabinet to keep track of all my drawer parts.

This will be it for a while, because we have a busy schedule the rest of the week.

Take care, Pabull.

Ah, the ability to jump OVER (leave) the high wall of the rebate with the #45 (vs. a #78) makes total sense… That's an awesome pic. Perfect tool for the job, PaBull! Kudos to you for the hybrid woodworking!

 

[PaBull]

Gluing, pocket holes and stanley #45

Today I went ahead and got the boards for the top and sides all cut up. The sides are nice and straight. And we are gluing up the boards. I do them one board at a time. this way I have a better control over the alignment of the boards and I have to do less planing and or sanding later.

Below is an other picture with the designing of the dresser. I used a FWW magazine to get some inspiration on how the build the "guts" of a dresser. I need to see this coming together still. I am used to making cabinets with face frame, but you loose a lot of space behind the frame.

It's time to take the Kreg pocket hole jig out of the closet. I really like this jig. I have used this jig throughout my house for all the face frames on the cabinets and for straight board glue ups. Below are the inner members (dividers and guides?) of the dresser.

Sorry, this was not my picture, they used oak not pine. Besides that, my bench does not look as clean.

After the sides and top are dry, they come out of the clamps and they need to be flattened somewhat. I used the sander for this (no need for a picture here, what do you think?).

Next is the dado's in the sides for the drawer supports. For this I need to refer back to a project posted a while back. I was inspired by Marc Spagnuolo. He posted a jig that would making dado's very easy.
http://thewoodwhisperer.com/exact-width-dado-jig/

After looking at this video, I came up with a little different version of the jig:

'Never Fail' dado jig for the router



It is time to put the cabinet together. This is by far the hardest one I assembled. With all the dado's, I was not sure where to start.

It came together better than expected. One of the hardest parts was the compound inaccuracy of the dado's. You can not see it on the picture, but the bottom stretcher is slightly bowed because all the verticals a just a little too tall.

And than you find out you forgot something. I have a bad case of CRS (Can't Remember ********************). I forgot to put the rabbit in the back of the side panels for the 1/4 back. Now what…...

I don't know what you guys would have done in this case, I thought of making a jig for the router, but that was too much work. I thought of getting a chisel.
But than I remembered having a #45 sitting in a dusty corner. I had that thing for years, never used it. It was more a woodworkers collector thing. I dug it up and sharpened the blade. It took some setting up. Come parts were rusted up a little.

I was amazed how well old Betsy worked out, once set up it took less than 5 minutes per side to remove the wood.

Problem solved. On to the next thing.

As I mentioned, no dovetails and no wood-on-wood drawers. So I went to my favorite specialty hardware store, the Home Depot for drawer slides. And spend a life savings on this pile of hardware. (why did we need this many drawers again?)

For the drawers I like to use Baltic Birch. It is stable, it is straight and best of all, it was given to me by my friend.
One little problem is that the thickness is all over the board, so I need to watch it when cutting the front and back to size. This was going to be an issue anyway, because not all openings are exactly the same.
Did I mention that I have a bad case of CRS…. So I use the cabinet to keep track of all my drawer parts.

This will be it for a while, because we have a busy schedule the rest of the week.

Take care, Pabull.

Smitty, I was surprised myself about the abilities of the #45. It takes a little of adjusting and seeing what does what on this plane. I have a #55 too, and I always thought it would do everything the #45 does and than some, but this was definitely a #45 job nothing for the #55.

Dennis, it is all glued in place. No saving on this one. And I'll stick with the inches. It took me years of getting used to when I moved to the US. I am getting to old to change again. ;-)

Xplorx4, thanks for your kind words. The next episode will be a while, as I said got some stuff to do, other than woodworking.

Pb.

 

[Smitty_Cabinetshop]

Gluing, pocket holes and stanley #45

Today I went ahead and got the boards for the top and sides all cut up. The sides are nice and straight. And we are gluing up the boards. I do them one board at a time. this way I have a better control over the alignment of the boards and I have to do less planing and or sanding later.

Below is an other picture with the designing of the dresser. I used a FWW magazine to get some inspiration on how the build the "guts" of a dresser. I need to see this coming together still. I am used to making cabinets with face frame, but you loose a lot of space behind the frame.

It's time to take the Kreg pocket hole jig out of the closet. I really like this jig. I have used this jig throughout my house for all the face frames on the cabinets and for straight board glue ups. Below are the inner members (dividers and guides?) of the dresser.

Sorry, this was not my picture, they used oak not pine. Besides that, my bench does not look as clean.

After the sides and top are dry, they come out of the clamps and they need to be flattened somewhat. I used the sander for this (no need for a picture here, what do you think?).

Next is the dado's in the sides for the drawer supports. For this I need to refer back to a project posted a while back. I was inspired by Marc Spagnuolo. He posted a jig that would making dado's very easy.
http://thewoodwhisperer.com/exact-width-dado-jig/

After looking at this video, I came up with a little different version of the jig:

'Never Fail' dado jig for the router



It is time to put the cabinet together. This is by far the hardest one I assembled. With all the dado's, I was not sure where to start.

It came together better than expected. One of the hardest parts was the compound inaccuracy of the dado's. You can not see it on the picture, but the bottom stretcher is slightly bowed because all the verticals a just a little too tall.

And than you find out you forgot something. I have a bad case of CRS (Can't Remember ********************). I forgot to put the rabbit in the back of the side panels for the 1/4 back. Now what…...

I don't know what you guys would have done in this case, I thought of making a jig for the router, but that was too much work. I thought of getting a chisel.
But than I remembered having a #45 sitting in a dusty corner. I had that thing for years, never used it. It was more a woodworkers collector thing. I dug it up and sharpened the blade. It took some setting up. Come parts were rusted up a little.

I was amazed how well old Betsy worked out, once set up it took less than 5 minutes per side to remove the wood.

Problem solved. On to the next thing.

As I mentioned, no dovetails and no wood-on-wood drawers. So I went to my favorite specialty hardware store, the Home Depot for drawer slides. And spend a life savings on this pile of hardware. (why did we need this many drawers again?)

For the drawers I like to use Baltic Birch. It is stable, it is straight and best of all, it was given to me by my friend.
One little problem is that the thickness is all over the board, so I need to watch it when cutting the front and back to size. This was going to be an issue anyway, because not all openings are exactly the same.
Did I mention that I have a bad case of CRS…. So I use the cabinet to keep track of all my drawer parts.

This will be it for a while, because we have a busy schedule the rest of the week.

Take care, Pabull.

Pa, I'm covetous of your #55, man! Would love one for it's ability, I think, to make moulding-type cuts beyond what I do with beading w/ my #45 (which I use alot)...

 

[alholstein]

Gluing, pocket holes and stanley #45

Today I went ahead and got the boards for the top and sides all cut up. The sides are nice and straight. And we are gluing up the boards. I do them one board at a time. this way I have a better control over the alignment of the boards and I have to do less planing and or sanding later.

Below is an other picture with the designing of the dresser. I used a FWW magazine to get some inspiration on how the build the "guts" of a dresser. I need to see this coming together still. I am used to making cabinets with face frame, but you loose a lot of space behind the frame.

It's time to take the Kreg pocket hole jig out of the closet. I really like this jig. I have used this jig throughout my house for all the face frames on the cabinets and for straight board glue ups. Below are the inner members (dividers and guides?) of the dresser.

Sorry, this was not my picture, they used oak not pine. Besides that, my bench does not look as clean.

After the sides and top are dry, they come out of the clamps and they need to be flattened somewhat. I used the sander for this (no need for a picture here, what do you think?).

Next is the dado's in the sides for the drawer supports. For this I need to refer back to a project posted a while back. I was inspired by Marc Spagnuolo. He posted a jig that would making dado's very easy.
http://thewoodwhisperer.com/exact-width-dado-jig/

After looking at this video, I came up with a little different version of the jig:

'Never Fail' dado jig for the router



It is time to put the cabinet together. This is by far the hardest one I assembled. With all the dado's, I was not sure where to start.

It came together better than expected. One of the hardest parts was the compound inaccuracy of the dado's. You can not see it on the picture, but the bottom stretcher is slightly bowed because all the verticals a just a little too tall.

And than you find out you forgot something. I have a bad case of CRS (Can't Remember ********************). I forgot to put the rabbit in the back of the side panels for the 1/4 back. Now what…...

I don't know what you guys would have done in this case, I thought of making a jig for the router, but that was too much work. I thought of getting a chisel.
But than I remembered having a #45 sitting in a dusty corner. I had that thing for years, never used it. It was more a woodworkers collector thing. I dug it up and sharpened the blade. It took some setting up. Come parts were rusted up a little.

I was amazed how well old Betsy worked out, once set up it took less than 5 minutes per side to remove the wood.

Problem solved. On to the next thing.

As I mentioned, no dovetails and no wood-on-wood drawers. So I went to my favorite specialty hardware store, the Home Depot for drawer slides. And spend a life savings on this pile of hardware. (why did we need this many drawers again?)

For the drawers I like to use Baltic Birch. It is stable, it is straight and best of all, it was given to me by my friend.
One little problem is that the thickness is all over the board, so I need to watch it when cutting the front and back to size. This was going to be an issue anyway, because not all openings are exactly the same.
Did I mention that I have a bad case of CRS…. So I use the cabinet to keep track of all my drawer parts.

This will be it for a while, because we have a busy schedule the rest of the week.

Take care, Pabull.

Now I see why you came up with the jig for drawer slides. You have a lot of very nice projects.
Al

 

[PaBull]

Gluing, pocket holes and stanley #45

Today I went ahead and got the boards for the top and sides all cut up. The sides are nice and straight. And we are gluing up the boards. I do them one board at a time. this way I have a better control over the alignment of the boards and I have to do less planing and or sanding later.

Below is an other picture with the designing of the dresser. I used a FWW magazine to get some inspiration on how the build the "guts" of a dresser. I need to see this coming together still. I am used to making cabinets with face frame, but you loose a lot of space behind the frame.

It's time to take the Kreg pocket hole jig out of the closet. I really like this jig. I have used this jig throughout my house for all the face frames on the cabinets and for straight board glue ups. Below are the inner members (dividers and guides?) of the dresser.

Sorry, this was not my picture, they used oak not pine. Besides that, my bench does not look as clean.

After the sides and top are dry, they come out of the clamps and they need to be flattened somewhat. I used the sander for this (no need for a picture here, what do you think?).

Next is the dado's in the sides for the drawer supports. For this I need to refer back to a project posted a while back. I was inspired by Marc Spagnuolo. He posted a jig that would making dado's very easy.
http://thewoodwhisperer.com/exact-width-dado-jig/

After looking at this video, I came up with a little different version of the jig:

'Never Fail' dado jig for the router



It is time to put the cabinet together. This is by far the hardest one I assembled. With all the dado's, I was not sure where to start.

It came together better than expected. One of the hardest parts was the compound inaccuracy of the dado's. You can not see it on the picture, but the bottom stretcher is slightly bowed because all the verticals a just a little too tall.

And than you find out you forgot something. I have a bad case of CRS (Can't Remember ********************). I forgot to put the rabbit in the back of the side panels for the 1/4 back. Now what…...

I don't know what you guys would have done in this case, I thought of making a jig for the router, but that was too much work. I thought of getting a chisel.
But than I remembered having a #45 sitting in a dusty corner. I had that thing for years, never used it. It was more a woodworkers collector thing. I dug it up and sharpened the blade. It took some setting up. Come parts were rusted up a little.

I was amazed how well old Betsy worked out, once set up it took less than 5 minutes per side to remove the wood.

Problem solved. On to the next thing.

As I mentioned, no dovetails and no wood-on-wood drawers. So I went to my favorite specialty hardware store, the Home Depot for drawer slides. And spend a life savings on this pile of hardware. (why did we need this many drawers again?)

For the drawers I like to use Baltic Birch. It is stable, it is straight and best of all, it was given to me by my friend.
One little problem is that the thickness is all over the board, so I need to watch it when cutting the front and back to size. This was going to be an issue anyway, because not all openings are exactly the same.
Did I mention that I have a bad case of CRS…. So I use the cabinet to keep track of all my drawer parts.

This will be it for a while, because we have a busy schedule the rest of the week.

Take care, Pabull.

You got it, Al.
As they say "think with your head not with your screwdriver", maybe that was not a saying.

See the next post too! http://lumberjocks.com/PaBull/blog/28494

Be good, Pb.

 

[mafe]

Gluing, pocket holes and stanley #45

Today I went ahead and got the boards for the top and sides all cut up. The sides are nice and straight. And we are gluing up the boards. I do them one board at a time. this way I have a better control over the alignment of the boards and I have to do less planing and or sanding later.

Below is an other picture with the designing of the dresser. I used a FWW magazine to get some inspiration on how the build the "guts" of a dresser. I need to see this coming together still. I am used to making cabinets with face frame, but you loose a lot of space behind the frame.

It's time to take the Kreg pocket hole jig out of the closet. I really like this jig. I have used this jig throughout my house for all the face frames on the cabinets and for straight board glue ups. Below are the inner members (dividers and guides?) of the dresser.

Sorry, this was not my picture, they used oak not pine. Besides that, my bench does not look as clean.

After the sides and top are dry, they come out of the clamps and they need to be flattened somewhat. I used the sander for this (no need for a picture here, what do you think?).

Next is the dado's in the sides for the drawer supports. For this I need to refer back to a project posted a while back. I was inspired by Marc Spagnuolo. He posted a jig that would making dado's very easy.
http://thewoodwhisperer.com/exact-width-dado-jig/

After looking at this video, I came up with a little different version of the jig:

'Never Fail' dado jig for the router



It is time to put the cabinet together. This is by far the hardest one I assembled. With all the dado's, I was not sure where to start.

It came together better than expected. One of the hardest parts was the compound inaccuracy of the dado's. You can not see it on the picture, but the bottom stretcher is slightly bowed because all the verticals a just a little too tall.

And than you find out you forgot something. I have a bad case of CRS (Can't Remember ********************). I forgot to put the rabbit in the back of the side panels for the 1/4 back. Now what…...

I don't know what you guys would have done in this case, I thought of making a jig for the router, but that was too much work. I thought of getting a chisel.
But than I remembered having a #45 sitting in a dusty corner. I had that thing for years, never used it. It was more a woodworkers collector thing. I dug it up and sharpened the blade. It took some setting up. Come parts were rusted up a little.

I was amazed how well old Betsy worked out, once set up it took less than 5 minutes per side to remove the wood.

Problem solved. On to the next thing.

As I mentioned, no dovetails and no wood-on-wood drawers. So I went to my favorite specialty hardware store, the Home Depot for drawer slides. And spend a life savings on this pile of hardware. (why did we need this many drawers again?)

For the drawers I like to use Baltic Birch. It is stable, it is straight and best of all, it was given to me by my friend.
One little problem is that the thickness is all over the board, so I need to watch it when cutting the front and back to size. This was going to be an issue anyway, because not all openings are exactly the same.
Did I mention that I have a bad case of CRS…. So I use the cabinet to keep track of all my drawer parts.

This will be it for a while, because we have a busy schedule the rest of the week.

Take care, Pabull.

Hi my friend,
Sorry to have missed a lot here, I have had a busy life lately…
Now I will sit and go through it all, step by step.
I love that 45!
And the hardware… you are… wax and wood next time.
The front of the cabinet looks like modern architecture at theis point.
Best thoughts,
Mads

 

[PaBull]

Drawers, the "Fruit of the Loom", size matters

"Size matters on drawers"

Time to get down to the drawers. It's kinna like getting into the underwear (not in a dirty way) of the cabinet. Call it the "Fruit of the Loom?".When making drawers, size matters, so I will work on getting every 1/8" I can (or mm for you, Europeans).

The first step is making the face frame thin. Or in this case, no face frame, just 3/4" thick dividers. European style cabinets are a good way to do this, I just don't like that for a Shaker style dresser.Calculating the width is easy with these euro-slides; width of opening less 1".

The depth depends on backing and method of drawer front. I will have a 1/4" back to close off the back of the dresser, but it will be nailed to the back, no dado, because this will cost me too much depth. The drawer front will be inset, in other words flush with the face of the dresser. This will cost me 3/4". But I like that style and it will match the rest of the house. I could save another half inch in depth by not having a false drawer front, but this is too much work. This is the front of the box be hind the visual drawer front.

To maximize the height I will nail (staple) the the 1/4" bottom to the bottom of the drawer box, instead of a dado 1/4" up, 1/4" wide and deep. We will gain 1/2" with this. And with a little glue, this will hold up just fine. The bottom will get also support from the drawer slides anyway. This will also prevent the slide screws from breaking that 1/4" by 1/4" plywood on the bottom. Best is, build a test drawer and see how tall you can make it without hitting the cabinet. And next is the cutout needed to get the drawer in and out of the cabinet. With face frame cabinets I was able to get away with a half oval shape, as shown below. As you put the drawer in the cabinet, you hook it around the upper part of the face frame so to say.

But with this dresser I have to remove the whole back upper end of the drawer.

To cut the relief in the drawer sides, I build a jig for my router table.

Before I take the router to it, I will first rough cut it on the band-saw. The jig has two hold-downs to keep the drawer side in place. (These are some cheap Harbor Freight clamps, but it works!)

There are a lot of different jigs on the market for mounting drawer slides. They are all based on holding the slide in place. This gives a lot of room for error. With a heavy screwdriver in hand, screw on the tip, you are aiming for the center of that larger than normal hole in the drawer runner. I came up with a very simple jig using 1" drywall screws in some left over 1/2" plywood (drawer stock).



I posted this Jig as a project a couple of days agao.

The screws line up with the holes of the drawer slide. Put the jig in place, wacky the screw heads with the mallet and you have the starter holes for your drawer screws. You will see that this is a lot more accurate. The reason for the double row of screws is left side and right side. The jig on the picture was build with 3/4" inset drawer fronts in mind. If your drawer fronts are overlay, your screws would positioned 3/4" more forward and so on. Another little footnote would be, to use a drill-press for the pilot holes, to be sure that the accuracy from the front pf the plywood jig is carried on to the back, where the accuracy of the placing of the tip of the screws counts most.

After you put the drawer slide jig in place, give a nice tap on the screw heads and you have the pilot holes for your drawer slides in place.

Okay, I will leave you with this, they are calling me for lunch, gatta go.
Happy woodworking.
Pabull.

 

[joez71]

Drawers, the "Fruit of the Loom", size matters

"Size matters on drawers"

Time to get down to the drawers. It's kinna like getting into the underwear (not in a dirty way) of the cabinet. Call it the "Fruit of the Loom?".When making drawers, size matters, so I will work on getting every 1/8" I can (or mm for you, Europeans).

The first step is making the face frame thin. Or in this case, no face frame, just 3/4" thick dividers. European style cabinets are a good way to do this, I just don't like that for a Shaker style dresser.Calculating the width is easy with these euro-slides; width of opening less 1".

The depth depends on backing and method of drawer front. I will have a 1/4" back to close off the back of the dresser, but it will be nailed to the back, no dado, because this will cost me too much depth. The drawer front will be inset, in other words flush with the face of the dresser. This will cost me 3/4". But I like that style and it will match the rest of the house. I could save another half inch in depth by not having a false drawer front, but this is too much work. This is the front of the box be hind the visual drawer front.

To maximize the height I will nail (staple) the the 1/4" bottom to the bottom of the drawer box, instead of a dado 1/4" up, 1/4" wide and deep. We will gain 1/2" with this. And with a little glue, this will hold up just fine. The bottom will get also support from the drawer slides anyway. This will also prevent the slide screws from breaking that 1/4" by 1/4" plywood on the bottom. Best is, build a test drawer and see how tall you can make it without hitting the cabinet. And next is the cutout needed to get the drawer in and out of the cabinet. With face frame cabinets I was able to get away with a half oval shape, as shown below. As you put the drawer in the cabinet, you hook it around the upper part of the face frame so to say.

But with this dresser I have to remove the whole back upper end of the drawer.

To cut the relief in the drawer sides, I build a jig for my router table.

Before I take the router to it, I will first rough cut it on the band-saw. The jig has two hold-downs to keep the drawer side in place. (These are some cheap Harbor Freight clamps, but it works!)

There are a lot of different jigs on the market for mounting drawer slides. They are all based on holding the slide in place. This gives a lot of room for error. With a heavy screwdriver in hand, screw on the tip, you are aiming for the center of that larger than normal hole in the drawer runner. I came up with a very simple jig using 1" drywall screws in some left over 1/2" plywood (drawer stock).



I posted this Jig as a project a couple of days agao.

The screws line up with the holes of the drawer slide. Put the jig in place, wacky the screw heads with the mallet and you have the starter holes for your drawer screws. You will see that this is a lot more accurate. The reason for the double row of screws is left side and right side. The jig on the picture was build with 3/4" inset drawer fronts in mind. If your drawer fronts are overlay, your screws would positioned 3/4" more forward and so on. Another little footnote would be, to use a drill-press for the pilot holes, to be sure that the accuracy from the front pf the plywood jig is carried on to the back, where the accuracy of the placing of the tip of the screws counts most.

After you put the drawer slide jig in place, give a nice tap on the screw heads and you have the pilot holes for your drawer slides in place.

Okay, I will leave you with this, they are calling me for lunch, gatta go.
Happy woodworking.
Pabull.

Nice work, love the idea of the relief at the end of the drawers.

joez

 

[PaBull]

Drawers, the "Fruit of the Loom", size matters

"Size matters on drawers"

Time to get down to the drawers. It's kinna like getting into the underwear (not in a dirty way) of the cabinet. Call it the "Fruit of the Loom?".When making drawers, size matters, so I will work on getting every 1/8" I can (or mm for you, Europeans).

The first step is making the face frame thin. Or in this case, no face frame, just 3/4" thick dividers. European style cabinets are a good way to do this, I just don't like that for a Shaker style dresser.Calculating the width is easy with these euro-slides; width of opening less 1".

The depth depends on backing and method of drawer front. I will have a 1/4" back to close off the back of the dresser, but it will be nailed to the back, no dado, because this will cost me too much depth. The drawer front will be inset, in other words flush with the face of the dresser. This will cost me 3/4". But I like that style and it will match the rest of the house. I could save another half inch in depth by not having a false drawer front, but this is too much work. This is the front of the box be hind the visual drawer front.

To maximize the height I will nail (staple) the the 1/4" bottom to the bottom of the drawer box, instead of a dado 1/4" up, 1/4" wide and deep. We will gain 1/2" with this. And with a little glue, this will hold up just fine. The bottom will get also support from the drawer slides anyway. This will also prevent the slide screws from breaking that 1/4" by 1/4" plywood on the bottom. Best is, build a test drawer and see how tall you can make it without hitting the cabinet. And next is the cutout needed to get the drawer in and out of the cabinet. With face frame cabinets I was able to get away with a half oval shape, as shown below. As you put the drawer in the cabinet, you hook it around the upper part of the face frame so to say.

But with this dresser I have to remove the whole back upper end of the drawer.

To cut the relief in the drawer sides, I build a jig for my router table.

Before I take the router to it, I will first rough cut it on the band-saw. The jig has two hold-downs to keep the drawer side in place. (These are some cheap Harbor Freight clamps, but it works!)

There are a lot of different jigs on the market for mounting drawer slides. They are all based on holding the slide in place. This gives a lot of room for error. With a heavy screwdriver in hand, screw on the tip, you are aiming for the center of that larger than normal hole in the drawer runner. I came up with a very simple jig using 1" drywall screws in some left over 1/2" plywood (drawer stock).



I posted this Jig as a project a couple of days agao.

The screws line up with the holes of the drawer slide. Put the jig in place, wacky the screw heads with the mallet and you have the starter holes for your drawer screws. You will see that this is a lot more accurate. The reason for the double row of screws is left side and right side. The jig on the picture was build with 3/4" inset drawer fronts in mind. If your drawer fronts are overlay, your screws would positioned 3/4" more forward and so on. Another little footnote would be, to use a drill-press for the pilot holes, to be sure that the accuracy from the front pf the plywood jig is carried on to the back, where the accuracy of the placing of the tip of the screws counts most.

After you put the drawer slide jig in place, give a nice tap on the screw heads and you have the pilot holes for your drawer slides in place.

Okay, I will leave you with this, they are calling me for lunch, gatta go.
Happy woodworking.
Pabull.

Thanks Joez, I hope this will help you create a deeper, wider, longer drawer.
Be well.
Pb.

 

[mafe]

Drawers, the "Fruit of the Loom", size matters

"Size matters on drawers"

Time to get down to the drawers. It's kinna like getting into the underwear (not in a dirty way) of the cabinet. Call it the "Fruit of the Loom?".When making drawers, size matters, so I will work on getting every 1/8" I can (or mm for you, Europeans).

The first step is making the face frame thin. Or in this case, no face frame, just 3/4" thick dividers. European style cabinets are a good way to do this, I just don't like that for a Shaker style dresser.Calculating the width is easy with these euro-slides; width of opening less 1".

The depth depends on backing and method of drawer front. I will have a 1/4" back to close off the back of the dresser, but it will be nailed to the back, no dado, because this will cost me too much depth. The drawer front will be inset, in other words flush with the face of the dresser. This will cost me 3/4". But I like that style and it will match the rest of the house. I could save another half inch in depth by not having a false drawer front, but this is too much work. This is the front of the box be hind the visual drawer front.

To maximize the height I will nail (staple) the the 1/4" bottom to the bottom of the drawer box, instead of a dado 1/4" up, 1/4" wide and deep. We will gain 1/2" with this. And with a little glue, this will hold up just fine. The bottom will get also support from the drawer slides anyway. This will also prevent the slide screws from breaking that 1/4" by 1/4" plywood on the bottom. Best is, build a test drawer and see how tall you can make it without hitting the cabinet. And next is the cutout needed to get the drawer in and out of the cabinet. With face frame cabinets I was able to get away with a half oval shape, as shown below. As you put the drawer in the cabinet, you hook it around the upper part of the face frame so to say.

But with this dresser I have to remove the whole back upper end of the drawer.

To cut the relief in the drawer sides, I build a jig for my router table.

Before I take the router to it, I will first rough cut it on the band-saw. The jig has two hold-downs to keep the drawer side in place. (These are some cheap Harbor Freight clamps, but it works!)

There are a lot of different jigs on the market for mounting drawer slides. They are all based on holding the slide in place. This gives a lot of room for error. With a heavy screwdriver in hand, screw on the tip, you are aiming for the center of that larger than normal hole in the drawer runner. I came up with a very simple jig using 1" drywall screws in some left over 1/2" plywood (drawer stock).



I posted this Jig as a project a couple of days agao.

The screws line up with the holes of the drawer slide. Put the jig in place, wacky the screw heads with the mallet and you have the starter holes for your drawer screws. You will see that this is a lot more accurate. The reason for the double row of screws is left side and right side. The jig on the picture was build with 3/4" inset drawer fronts in mind. If your drawer fronts are overlay, your screws would positioned 3/4" more forward and so on. Another little footnote would be, to use a drill-press for the pilot holes, to be sure that the accuracy from the front pf the plywood jig is carried on to the back, where the accuracy of the placing of the tip of the screws counts most.

After you put the drawer slide jig in place, give a nice tap on the screw heads and you have the pilot holes for your drawer slides in place.

Okay, I will leave you with this, they are calling me for lunch, gatta go.
Happy woodworking.
Pabull.

Looking good my friend.
Cool idea with that jig.
Hope you had a wonderful lunch.
Best thoughts,
Mads

 

[PaBull]

Drawers, the "Fruit of the Loom", size matters

"Size matters on drawers"

Time to get down to the drawers. It's kinna like getting into the underwear (not in a dirty way) of the cabinet. Call it the "Fruit of the Loom?".When making drawers, size matters, so I will work on getting every 1/8" I can (or mm for you, Europeans).

The first step is making the face frame thin. Or in this case, no face frame, just 3/4" thick dividers. European style cabinets are a good way to do this, I just don't like that for a Shaker style dresser.Calculating the width is easy with these euro-slides; width of opening less 1".

The depth depends on backing and method of drawer front. I will have a 1/4" back to close off the back of the dresser, but it will be nailed to the back, no dado, because this will cost me too much depth. The drawer front will be inset, in other words flush with the face of the dresser. This will cost me 3/4". But I like that style and it will match the rest of the house. I could save another half inch in depth by not having a false drawer front, but this is too much work. This is the front of the box be hind the visual drawer front.

To maximize the height I will nail (staple) the the 1/4" bottom to the bottom of the drawer box, instead of a dado 1/4" up, 1/4" wide and deep. We will gain 1/2" with this. And with a little glue, this will hold up just fine. The bottom will get also support from the drawer slides anyway. This will also prevent the slide screws from breaking that 1/4" by 1/4" plywood on the bottom. Best is, build a test drawer and see how tall you can make it without hitting the cabinet. And next is the cutout needed to get the drawer in and out of the cabinet. With face frame cabinets I was able to get away with a half oval shape, as shown below. As you put the drawer in the cabinet, you hook it around the upper part of the face frame so to say.

But with this dresser I have to remove the whole back upper end of the drawer.

To cut the relief in the drawer sides, I build a jig for my router table.

Before I take the router to it, I will first rough cut it on the band-saw. The jig has two hold-downs to keep the drawer side in place. (These are some cheap Harbor Freight clamps, but it works!)

There are a lot of different jigs on the market for mounting drawer slides. They are all based on holding the slide in place. This gives a lot of room for error. With a heavy screwdriver in hand, screw on the tip, you are aiming for the center of that larger than normal hole in the drawer runner. I came up with a very simple jig using 1" drywall screws in some left over 1/2" plywood (drawer stock).



I posted this Jig as a project a couple of days agao.

The screws line up with the holes of the drawer slide. Put the jig in place, wacky the screw heads with the mallet and you have the starter holes for your drawer screws. You will see that this is a lot more accurate. The reason for the double row of screws is left side and right side. The jig on the picture was build with 3/4" inset drawer fronts in mind. If your drawer fronts are overlay, your screws would positioned 3/4" more forward and so on. Another little footnote would be, to use a drill-press for the pilot holes, to be sure that the accuracy from the front pf the plywood jig is carried on to the back, where the accuracy of the placing of the tip of the screws counts most.

After you put the drawer slide jig in place, give a nice tap on the screw heads and you have the pilot holes for your drawer slides in place.

Okay, I will leave you with this, they are calling me for lunch, gatta go.
Happy woodworking.
Pabull.

Thanks Mads.
Always JIGS, I love jigs.
Lunch was good, thanks.

Pb.

 

[mafe]

Drawers, the "Fruit of the Loom", size matters

"Size matters on drawers"

Time to get down to the drawers. It's kinna like getting into the underwear (not in a dirty way) of the cabinet. Call it the "Fruit of the Loom?".When making drawers, size matters, so I will work on getting every 1/8" I can (or mm for you, Europeans).

The first step is making the face frame thin. Or in this case, no face frame, just 3/4" thick dividers. European style cabinets are a good way to do this, I just don't like that for a Shaker style dresser.Calculating the width is easy with these euro-slides; width of opening less 1".

The depth depends on backing and method of drawer front. I will have a 1/4" back to close off the back of the dresser, but it will be nailed to the back, no dado, because this will cost me too much depth. The drawer front will be inset, in other words flush with the face of the dresser. This will cost me 3/4". But I like that style and it will match the rest of the house. I could save another half inch in depth by not having a false drawer front, but this is too much work. This is the front of the box be hind the visual drawer front.

To maximize the height I will nail (staple) the the 1/4" bottom to the bottom of the drawer box, instead of a dado 1/4" up, 1/4" wide and deep. We will gain 1/2" with this. And with a little glue, this will hold up just fine. The bottom will get also support from the drawer slides anyway. This will also prevent the slide screws from breaking that 1/4" by 1/4" plywood on the bottom. Best is, build a test drawer and see how tall you can make it without hitting the cabinet. And next is the cutout needed to get the drawer in and out of the cabinet. With face frame cabinets I was able to get away with a half oval shape, as shown below. As you put the drawer in the cabinet, you hook it around the upper part of the face frame so to say.

But with this dresser I have to remove the whole back upper end of the drawer.

To cut the relief in the drawer sides, I build a jig for my router table.

Before I take the router to it, I will first rough cut it on the band-saw. The jig has two hold-downs to keep the drawer side in place. (These are some cheap Harbor Freight clamps, but it works!)

There are a lot of different jigs on the market for mounting drawer slides. They are all based on holding the slide in place. This gives a lot of room for error. With a heavy screwdriver in hand, screw on the tip, you are aiming for the center of that larger than normal hole in the drawer runner. I came up with a very simple jig using 1" drywall screws in some left over 1/2" plywood (drawer stock).



I posted this Jig as a project a couple of days agao.

The screws line up with the holes of the drawer slide. Put the jig in place, wacky the screw heads with the mallet and you have the starter holes for your drawer screws. You will see that this is a lot more accurate. The reason for the double row of screws is left side and right side. The jig on the picture was build with 3/4" inset drawer fronts in mind. If your drawer fronts are overlay, your screws would positioned 3/4" more forward and so on. Another little footnote would be, to use a drill-press for the pilot holes, to be sure that the accuracy from the front pf the plywood jig is carried on to the back, where the accuracy of the placing of the tip of the screws counts most.

After you put the drawer slide jig in place, give a nice tap on the screw heads and you have the pilot holes for your drawer slides in place.

Okay, I will leave you with this, they are calling me for lunch, gatta go.
Happy woodworking.
Pabull.

Hmmmmmmm ;-)

 

[PaBull]

Shaker design; secret compartment

I wanted to show off the little progress I made so far…..

The drawers are going together:

Here you can see how I used a wooden clamp, clamped to the bench to hold the back of the drawer upright in a 90, while i nail the front on. Once you have the front on, the rest comes easy. Lots of guys make a big deal about jigs they come up with, but I never saw the purpose of them. To get the drawer all the way square, we handle this when the bottom comes on.

Wait…. look closely at these two drawers…. see any difference?

Here is the back of one of them, there is a false bottom and a secret drawer, opening from the back. I showed it to my wife, and she wanted all drawers done like that. Well it was supposed to be just a little joke. So we just stick with one for now.

Here is the book I got my inspiration for the design from, "Measured Drawings of Shaker" from Ejner Handberg. He has a whole series of these books. I think I have 4 of his books.

Here is the cupboard we fell in love with. We took the dresser part. We needed bigger drawers. The drawers of this original dresser were way too small for our closet.

As yo can see, I put together the sides of the drawers, next will be cutting the bottoms and putting on the drawer slides.
It is coming together pretty well.

Sorry about the photography and its quality, it was all done with my phone (droid).

Thanks to my friend Steve A. for all the pieces of 1/2" plywood I got from him.

Thanks for checking it out, and don't hesitate to say "hi", when you stop by.

Pabull.

 

[cjwillie]

Shaker design; secret compartment

I wanted to show off the little progress I made so far…..

The drawers are going together:

Here you can see how I used a wooden clamp, clamped to the bench to hold the back of the drawer upright in a 90, while i nail the front on. Once you have the front on, the rest comes easy. Lots of guys make a big deal about jigs they come up with, but I never saw the purpose of them. To get the drawer all the way square, we handle this when the bottom comes on.

Wait…. look closely at these two drawers…. see any difference?

Here is the back of one of them, there is a false bottom and a secret drawer, opening from the back. I showed it to my wife, and she wanted all drawers done like that. Well it was supposed to be just a little joke. So we just stick with one for now.

Here is the book I got my inspiration for the design from, "Measured Drawings of Shaker" from Ejner Handberg. He has a whole series of these books. I think I have 4 of his books.

Here is the cupboard we fell in love with. We took the dresser part. We needed bigger drawers. The drawers of this original dresser were way too small for our closet.

As yo can see, I put together the sides of the drawers, next will be cutting the bottoms and putting on the drawer slides.
It is coming together pretty well.

Sorry about the photography and its quality, it was all done with my phone (droid).

Thanks to my friend Steve A. for all the pieces of 1/2" plywood I got from him.

Thanks for checking it out, and don't hesitate to say "hi", when you stop by.

Pabull.

Looking good, PaBull !!! Can't wait to see the finished product!

 

[PaBull]

Shaker design; secret compartment

I wanted to show off the little progress I made so far…..

The drawers are going together:

Here you can see how I used a wooden clamp, clamped to the bench to hold the back of the drawer upright in a 90, while i nail the front on. Once you have the front on, the rest comes easy. Lots of guys make a big deal about jigs they come up with, but I never saw the purpose of them. To get the drawer all the way square, we handle this when the bottom comes on.

Wait…. look closely at these two drawers…. see any difference?

Here is the back of one of them, there is a false bottom and a secret drawer, opening from the back. I showed it to my wife, and she wanted all drawers done like that. Well it was supposed to be just a little joke. So we just stick with one for now.

Here is the book I got my inspiration for the design from, "Measured Drawings of Shaker" from Ejner Handberg. He has a whole series of these books. I think I have 4 of his books.

Here is the cupboard we fell in love with. We took the dresser part. We needed bigger drawers. The drawers of this original dresser were way too small for our closet.

As yo can see, I put together the sides of the drawers, next will be cutting the bottoms and putting on the drawer slides.
It is coming together pretty well.

Sorry about the photography and its quality, it was all done with my phone (droid).

Thanks to my friend Steve A. for all the pieces of 1/2" plywood I got from him.

Thanks for checking it out, and don't hesitate to say "hi", when you stop by.

Pabull.

Thanks Willie, good to see you.

I can't wait either, to see this one go out of my garage and installed in the closet it needs to go to.

Pb.

 

[GCotton78]

Shaker design; secret compartment

I wanted to show off the little progress I made so far…..

The drawers are going together:

Here you can see how I used a wooden clamp, clamped to the bench to hold the back of the drawer upright in a 90, while i nail the front on. Once you have the front on, the rest comes easy. Lots of guys make a big deal about jigs they come up with, but I never saw the purpose of them. To get the drawer all the way square, we handle this when the bottom comes on.

Wait…. look closely at these two drawers…. see any difference?

Here is the back of one of them, there is a false bottom and a secret drawer, opening from the back. I showed it to my wife, and she wanted all drawers done like that. Well it was supposed to be just a little joke. So we just stick with one for now.

Here is the book I got my inspiration for the design from, "Measured Drawings of Shaker" from Ejner Handberg. He has a whole series of these books. I think I have 4 of his books.

Here is the cupboard we fell in love with. We took the dresser part. We needed bigger drawers. The drawers of this original dresser were way too small for our closet.

As yo can see, I put together the sides of the drawers, next will be cutting the bottoms and putting on the drawer slides.
It is coming together pretty well.

Sorry about the photography and its quality, it was all done with my phone (droid).

Thanks to my friend Steve A. for all the pieces of 1/2" plywood I got from him.

Thanks for checking it out, and don't hesitate to say "hi", when you stop by.

Pabull.

Just saw this listed in the LJ newsletter. Great project! I love the secret compartment!

 

[Dennisgrosen]

Shaker design; secret compartment

I wanted to show off the little progress I made so far…..

The drawers are going together:

Here you can see how I used a wooden clamp, clamped to the bench to hold the back of the drawer upright in a 90, while i nail the front on. Once you have the front on, the rest comes easy. Lots of guys make a big deal about jigs they come up with, but I never saw the purpose of them. To get the drawer all the way square, we handle this when the bottom comes on.

Wait…. look closely at these two drawers…. see any difference?

Here is the back of one of them, there is a false bottom and a secret drawer, opening from the back. I showed it to my wife, and she wanted all drawers done like that. Well it was supposed to be just a little joke. So we just stick with one for now.

Here is the book I got my inspiration for the design from, "Measured Drawings of Shaker" from Ejner Handberg. He has a whole series of these books. I think I have 4 of his books.

Here is the cupboard we fell in love with. We took the dresser part. We needed bigger drawers. The drawers of this original dresser were way too small for our closet.

As yo can see, I put together the sides of the drawers, next will be cutting the bottoms and putting on the drawer slides.
It is coming together pretty well.

Sorry about the photography and its quality, it was all done with my phone (droid).

Thanks to my friend Steve A. for all the pieces of 1/2" plywood I got from him.

Thanks for checking it out, and don't hesitate to say "hi", when you stop by.

Pabull.

Hi Pabull
you better get started on the second one
since this never will show up in the house
you need it in the shop to store bulky tools in ….. )

thanks for the secret idea

take care
Dennis

 

[Smitty_Cabinetshop]

Shaker design; secret compartment

I wanted to show off the little progress I made so far…..

The drawers are going together:

Here you can see how I used a wooden clamp, clamped to the bench to hold the back of the drawer upright in a 90, while i nail the front on. Once you have the front on, the rest comes easy. Lots of guys make a big deal about jigs they come up with, but I never saw the purpose of them. To get the drawer all the way square, we handle this when the bottom comes on.

Wait…. look closely at these two drawers…. see any difference?

Here is the back of one of them, there is a false bottom and a secret drawer, opening from the back. I showed it to my wife, and she wanted all drawers done like that. Well it was supposed to be just a little joke. So we just stick with one for now.

Here is the book I got my inspiration for the design from, "Measured Drawings of Shaker" from Ejner Handberg. He has a whole series of these books. I think I have 4 of his books.

Here is the cupboard we fell in love with. We took the dresser part. We needed bigger drawers. The drawers of this original dresser were way too small for our closet.

As yo can see, I put together the sides of the drawers, next will be cutting the bottoms and putting on the drawer slides.
It is coming together pretty well.

Sorry about the photography and its quality, it was all done with my phone (droid).

Thanks to my friend Steve A. for all the pieces of 1/2" plywood I got from him.

Thanks for checking it out, and don't hesitate to say "hi", when you stop by.

Pabull.

Very nice build so far, pabull. Great idea on the secret, too!

 

[Kentuk55]

Shaker design; secret compartment

I wanted to show off the little progress I made so far…..

The drawers are going together:

Here you can see how I used a wooden clamp, clamped to the bench to hold the back of the drawer upright in a 90, while i nail the front on. Once you have the front on, the rest comes easy. Lots of guys make a big deal about jigs they come up with, but I never saw the purpose of them. To get the drawer all the way square, we handle this when the bottom comes on.

Wait…. look closely at these two drawers…. see any difference?

Here is the back of one of them, there is a false bottom and a secret drawer, opening from the back. I showed it to my wife, and she wanted all drawers done like that. Well it was supposed to be just a little joke. So we just stick with one for now.

Here is the book I got my inspiration for the design from, "Measured Drawings of Shaker" from Ejner Handberg. He has a whole series of these books. I think I have 4 of his books.

Here is the cupboard we fell in love with. We took the dresser part. We needed bigger drawers. The drawers of this original dresser were way too small for our closet.

As yo can see, I put together the sides of the drawers, next will be cutting the bottoms and putting on the drawer slides.
It is coming together pretty well.

Sorry about the photography and its quality, it was all done with my phone (droid).

Thanks to my friend Steve A. for all the pieces of 1/2" plywood I got from him.

Thanks for checking it out, and don't hesitate to say "hi", when you stop by.

Pabull.

that's-a-lotta drawers

 

[BillNel]

Shaker design; secret compartment

I wanted to show off the little progress I made so far…..

The drawers are going together:

Here you can see how I used a wooden clamp, clamped to the bench to hold the back of the drawer upright in a 90, while i nail the front on. Once you have the front on, the rest comes easy. Lots of guys make a big deal about jigs they come up with, but I never saw the purpose of them. To get the drawer all the way square, we handle this when the bottom comes on.

Wait…. look closely at these two drawers…. see any difference?

Here is the back of one of them, there is a false bottom and a secret drawer, opening from the back. I showed it to my wife, and she wanted all drawers done like that. Well it was supposed to be just a little joke. So we just stick with one for now.

Here is the book I got my inspiration for the design from, "Measured Drawings of Shaker" from Ejner Handberg. He has a whole series of these books. I think I have 4 of his books.

Here is the cupboard we fell in love with. We took the dresser part. We needed bigger drawers. The drawers of this original dresser were way too small for our closet.

As yo can see, I put together the sides of the drawers, next will be cutting the bottoms and putting on the drawer slides.
It is coming together pretty well.

Sorry about the photography and its quality, it was all done with my phone (droid).

Thanks to my friend Steve A. for all the pieces of 1/2" plywood I got from him.

Thanks for checking it out, and don't hesitate to say "hi", when you stop by.

Pabull.

You can have the original look of many drawers but have the actual drawers larger. Here is what I have done.

On the rows with even number of "drawers", put two faces on one double width drawer.

On rows with odd number of "drawers", the handling varies depending on the number of "drawers".

As an example, for the Apothecary cupboard illustrated, the false faces would be, from top row to bottom.
2-2-2-2
2-3-2
2-2-2
2-1-2 or 1-1-1-1-1 or other combination depending on size desired
2-2 or 1-1-1-1