LumberJocks Woodworking Forum banner

Paper Mold and Deckle

22629 Views 10 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  JanPo
Why a paper mold?

This is a bit of a catch-up post, as I've been working on this project for several weeks now.

I'm building a more-or-less historically accurate paper mold that will be used to make paper out of West Texas cotton that we'll print on in the Texas Tech Letterpress Lab (http://letterpress.writingstore.com/). The idea is to sell prints to alumni to help support the lab, which teaches students about historical methods of printing and helps them understand how most of the literature in the past several hundred years was created.

Setting out on this project I had the advantage of two beautiful replica molds made by Timothy Moore (http://www.timothymooretools.com/molds.html), which we bought on a grant several years ago. But these are strictly showcase models - one is even a cutaway showing several different approaches to making paper (notably, laid and wove). They were really expensive ($5k), so I'm not about to dip them in a vat of paper pulp.

Essentially, traditional paper molds are composed of a frame covered by a mesh (the mold), which is topped by another frame (the deckle) that nests over the edges. Here's the picture from Moore's site:




The whole assembly is dipped into a vat of paper pulp, the water streams out through the mesh, and the paper is left on the top.

Seems pretty simple, no? But On close examination, paper molds have some fascinating features:

  • The mesh is made by stringing tempered wires horizontally (called "lay lines") and tying them in place with a "chain line," a softer wire wrapped around each lay wire to create a line perpendicular to the lay lines. Easier to see than to describe. But you can't buy this mesh, so I made it myself, using .035" stainless welding wire for the lay lines and 15 lb test.
  • The mesh is supported by a series of transverse bars, airfoil-shaped in cross section. When you line these up side by side with the skinny end of the airfoil supporting the mesh, they form little channels of decreasing volume as the water flows through-that's right, a venturi that sucks the water out the bottom!
  • The deckle, which is just a picture frame basically, is held together with a fascinating joint that combines a sliding dovetail and a mortise and tenon.



It took me awhile to figure out how to make this joint, which like some Asian joinery has features you can't really see from the outside.

Traditionally the woods used were oak or mahogany for the frames and larch for the support bars. I had some white oak, so decided to use that. Failing to find any larch, I decided to use Spanish cedar.

All in all a surprisingly challenging project!

Attachments

See less See more
4
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
frame and support bars

The first step was to mill the white oak and Spanish cedar to oversized billets and let them season a week or two in the shop. After final milling, I dovetailed the white oak frame by hand (good practice!) and set out to mill the airfoil-shaped support bars.



My biggest problem was getting the dowel-end to be well formed. I got some great advice from the joinery forum about machine approaches, but finally ended up whittling them rough, then bringing them to a final shape with a homemade dowel-cutter formed of a steel plate with three overlapping holes (the overlaps create cutting teeth-sorry, didn't take a picture). They ended up good enough, I think.

Attachments

See less See more
4
Mold Redux; or, the difference between prototyping and screwing up

Having finished the white oak mold and deckle, I'm rethinking my choice of woods. Sure, white oak looks great and it's really stout, but it weighs significantly more than the mahogany in the Timothy Moore model.

Paper mold with mesh sewn on partway:


White oak mold and deckle, from corner


I'm really happy about how the deckle came out. The joint was tricky, but quite strong despite the short grain on the nub that sticks out on one end:

!
!

I realized an interesting difference in this construction, compared to most frame joinery. Most frames are joined so the two sides press on in parallel from opposite directions. For example, in a dovetailed drawer, the pins are on the front, and the two sides with tails press on the pins from left and right in opposing directions. In the joinery for the deckle, the sliding dovetail joints chase around the four corners of the frame. So the bottom right corner has the dovetail pointing right, the top right corner points up, the top left points left, and the bottom left points down.


This makes the frame harder to put together, but also less likely to fall apart.

But back to the weight: if I had to lift this out of as vat of paper pulp 500 times a day, I'd be pretty sore. So I'm thinking of redoing it all in mahogany.

Attachments

See less See more
12
Mold Redux; or, the difference between prototyping and screwing up

Having finished the white oak mold and deckle, I'm rethinking my choice of woods. Sure, white oak looks great and it's really stout, but it weighs significantly more than the mahogany in the Timothy Moore model.

Paper mold with mesh sewn on partway:


White oak mold and deckle, from corner


I'm really happy about how the deckle came out. The joint was tricky, but quite strong despite the short grain on the nub that sticks out on one end:

!
!

I realized an interesting difference in this construction, compared to most frame joinery. Most frames are joined so the two sides press on in parallel from opposite directions. For example, in a dovetailed drawer, the pins are on the front, and the two sides with tails press on the pins from left and right in opposing directions. In the joinery for the deckle, the sliding dovetail joints chase around the four corners of the frame. So the bottom right corner has the dovetail pointing right, the top right corner points up, the top left points left, and the bottom left points down.


This makes the frame harder to put together, but also less likely to fall apart.

But back to the weight: if I had to lift this out of as vat of paper pulp 500 times a day, I'd be pretty sore. So I'm thinking of redoing it all in mahogany.
Hi, I'm liking reading what you did… I have noticed in the past that images of paper maker's using bigger paper molds have them suspended from spring poles, so that they actually push them down into the pulp and the spring pole lifts them back up .. this might solve your weight problem and your back.

Attachments

See less See more
12
More on the deckle joint

To understand the deckle joint, I drew it first in Sketchup. Here's how it looks, apart and assembled:











After assembly, I used a rounderover bit to take an arc out of the outside corners.

Attachments

See less See more
10
More on the deckle joint

To understand the deckle joint, I drew it first in Sketchup. Here's how it looks, apart and assembled:











After assembly, I used a rounderover bit to take an arc out of the outside corners.
Forgot to include a shot of the finished
joint…





It came out pretty well. I used a tenoning jig for some cuts, then cleaned up by hand. The sliding dovetail was all by hand.

Attachments

See less See more
14
More on the deckle joint

To understand the deckle joint, I drew it first in Sketchup. Here's how it looks, apart and assembled:











After assembly, I used a rounderover bit to take an arc out of the outside corners.
Hello Mileskimball

Sorry for contacting you this way. I came across you blog when searching online for paper making molds. We have little paper making studio where we show children how to make paper in far away Slovakia :). Currently trying to make or supply new papermaking mold. Was wondering whether you can share the way you made the metal mesh for your mold? Or could it be supplied from somewhere?
Thank You
Jan

Attachments

See less See more
10
More on the deckle joint

To understand the deckle joint, I drew it first in Sketchup. Here's how it looks, apart and assembled:











After assembly, I used a rounderover bit to take an arc out of the outside corners.
Hi, Jan -

If you want a traditional laid paper mold, with chain lines, you may choose (as I did) to make the mesh yourself. I wasn't able to find anyone who would do it for less than $2000 (!).

If you could send me an email address, I can share with you some photos and a short framentary video of the loom I made. It's a tedious process - kind of like weaving by hand or knitting.

Essentially, you need two kinds of wire: phosphor bronze and steel fishing wire. Phosphor bronze is hard to source, but I was able to find some eventually. Steel fishing wire is used for trotlines to fish for big fish like sturgeon. I can't recall the thickness of either, unfortunately.

You cut the PB wire into suitable lengths, but then if it came in a loop of wire, you'll need to straighten them as much as possible. I actually made a wire straightening jig, which used offset pulleys to bend the wire against its bend from the loop, gradually straightening it. I had no luck with a common technique, which is essentially to yank and stretch the wire straight. It just broke. If I had it to do over again, I'd pay a little more to have the wire straightened for me. Typically a steel or metal supplier will have the equipment to straighten the wire and cut it into suitable lengths.

Then you set up a frame with screws in a row at the top - about 3 cm apart - to locate the chainlines. You take some fishing wire - about 7x longer than the desired depth of the screen - fold it in half, then wrap each end onto a spool, so you have two spools holding half of each piece of wire. At the middle point, you wrap the wire around one of the screws and use the spools to twist the wire around itself 3-5 times. Continue along until you have one wire and two spools for each screw. Lay one spool from each screw away from you, and the other toward you. Lay a piece of the PB wire in the weft between the two ends of all the wires, then one wire at a time, pull to spool that's away from you toward you, and the spool that's toward you away from you. Cinch the twist, but not too tightly - you don't want to break the wire. Once you've twisted all of the fishing wires around the first PB wire, go back and make sure everything is snug. Then lay in another PB wire and repeat.

Hope this helps -

Miles

Attachments

See less See more
10
More on the deckle joint

To understand the deckle joint, I drew it first in Sketchup. Here's how it looks, apart and assembled:











After assembly, I used a rounderover bit to take an arc out of the outside corners.
Actually, I was able to find a way to make an album and share the link:

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/lqrqb9o09e0bvgj/AACs-W1QXH9yXhMflPFpLTNKa



Attachments

See less See more
14
More on the deckle joint

To understand the deckle joint, I drew it first in Sketchup. Here's how it looks, apart and assembled:











After assembly, I used a rounderover bit to take an arc out of the outside corners.
A few afterthoughts:

You might notice that on the loom I've drawn some lines down from each screw. These gave me a sight line to make sure the chain lines stay relatively straight. It's easy to let them go off course. I found that a cheap plastic hair comb made a good tool for nudging the chain wires straight, which I'd do every few lines.

As you twist the chain wire around the laid PB wires (pulling one spool toward you and the other away), be sure to twist them always in the same direction (clockwise or counterclockwise) for consistency.

The PB wires tended to sag in the middle of the loom, so I inserted a small block of wood loosely to support them.

To wrap the spools with wire:
1. Drill a small transverse hole - 1mm - in each spool.
2. Drill a larger hole in the end of each spool, sized to friction-fit a short piece of ~6mm dowel.
3. Chuck one end of the dowel in a drill, and press a spool onto the other end.
4. Poke a wire-end through the small transverse hole.
5. Hold the wire in light tension, then use the drill to spool the wire. Go slowly!
6. When you approach the screw anchoring your fishing line, stop and wrap the spool with a rubber band to hold the wire in place. This also allows you to feed out more wire as you need it in the weaving process.

Attachments

See less See more
10
More on the deckle joint

To understand the deckle joint, I drew it first in Sketchup. Here's how it looks, apart and assembled:











After assembly, I used a rounderover bit to take an arc out of the outside corners.
Hi Mileskimball

Thank You for your exhausting answer and sharing your know how with us. Let me say I admire your patience. I guess this is the only way you can do these things these days. There used to be people with professional looms however all these crafts are now more or less gone.
I found this interesting dvd: http://iarecordings.org/productions/p20.html
I'll keep you posted it if I decide to go and make the mesh myself using your way :)

Here is our private email: [email protected] or you can see few pictures from our workshop here:
https://www.facebook.com/Petrus-Papier-Exkurzie-do-papierne-a-ru%C4%8Dne-vyr%C3%A1ban%C3%BD-papier-219406638144380/

Once again Thank You
Jan

Attachments

See less See more
10
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top