How do you get the profile to match on the last corner, with each mating piece from a whole perimeter's distance apart on the board? I'm always making it ever so slightly different over 3-4 ft of the pattern. It shows on that last joint, at least for me.making the profile
I needed to make a picture frame for some art my sweetie found. These are the steps along the way.
The frame needed to have a 9 inch square piece of glass (the art is 7.5×7.75 inches). So I started with a 4 foot long stick of poplar I ripped off the edge of a 3/4×8 inch board. I made it about an inch wide.
I clamped it in my face vise and hit it with the #7 jointer plane to get a straight square edge on the surface I had cut.
After setting it on my sticking board, I put a 6/16 profile on one corner, a 10/16 profile on the adjacent corner, then a 1/4×3/16 rabbet on the back to hold the glass, mat board(s), art, and backing board. With sharpening the moulding planes, that took a little over an hour.
![Wood Sleeve Headgear Pattern Hardwood]()
Painted poplar picture frame
making the profile
I needed to make a picture frame for some art my sweetie found. These are the steps along the way.
The frame needed to have a 9 inch square piece of glass (the art is 7.5×7.75 inches). So I started with a 4 foot long stick of poplar I ripped off the edge of a 3/4×8 inch board. I made it about an inch wide.
I clamped it in my face vise and hit it with the #7 jointer plane to get a straight square edge on the surface I had cut.
After setting it on my sticking board, I put a 6/16 profile on one corner, a 10/16 profile on the adjacent corner, then a 1/4×3/16 rabbet on the back to hold the glass, mat board(s), art, and backing board. With sharpening the moulding planes, that took a little over an hour.
![Wood Sleeve Headgear Pattern Hardwood]()
I needed to make a picture frame for some art my sweetie found. These are the steps along the way.
The frame needed to have a 9 inch square piece of glass (the art is 7.5×7.75 inches). So I started with a 4 foot long stick of poplar I ripped off the edge of a 3/4×8 inch board. I made it about an inch wide.
I clamped it in my face vise and hit it with the #7 jointer plane to get a straight square edge on the surface I had cut.
After setting it on my sticking board, I put a 6/16 profile on one corner, a 10/16 profile on the adjacent corner, then a 1/4×3/16 rabbet on the back to hold the glass, mat board(s), art, and backing board. With sharpening the moulding planes, that took a little over an hour.
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They were a little off, but since I'm not worrying about grain-matching, I laid them out to get the best match on three corners, then tuned the fourth one a little by hand before gluing the frame up. Just a few minutes with a knife, then a little 60 grit to make everything look smooth. I could've gotten the moulding planes out again, but I got it good enough that my eye doesn't notice.making the profile
I needed to make a picture frame for some art my sweetie found. These are the steps along the way.
The frame needed to have a 9 inch square piece of glass (the art is 7.5×7.75 inches). So I started with a 4 foot long stick of poplar I ripped off the edge of a 3/4×8 inch board. I made it about an inch wide.
I clamped it in my face vise and hit it with the #7 jointer plane to get a straight square edge on the surface I had cut.
After setting it on my sticking board, I put a 6/16 profile on one corner, a 10/16 profile on the adjacent corner, then a 1/4×3/16 rabbet on the back to hold the glass, mat board(s), art, and backing board. With sharpening the moulding planes, that took a little over an hour.
![Wood Sleeve Headgear Pattern Hardwood]()
Attachments
Thanks for the reply. A carving knife or chisel before glue up is a good idea, I am still intimidated by molded frames as my rabbets on the back never line up nicely.making the profile
I needed to make a picture frame for some art my sweetie found. These are the steps along the way.
The frame needed to have a 9 inch square piece of glass (the art is 7.5×7.75 inches). So I started with a 4 foot long stick of poplar I ripped off the edge of a 3/4×8 inch board. I made it about an inch wide.
I clamped it in my face vise and hit it with the #7 jointer plane to get a straight square edge on the surface I had cut.
After setting it on my sticking board, I put a 6/16 profile on one corner, a 10/16 profile on the adjacent corner, then a 1/4×3/16 rabbet on the back to hold the glass, mat board(s), art, and backing board. With sharpening the moulding planes, that took a little over an hour.
![Wood Sleeve Headgear Pattern Hardwood]()
Attachments
When I clamp them up, I try to line up the rabbets. I figure I can always fix the moulding on the front after the fact if need be, at least if it's a simple profile like this one.making the profile
I needed to make a picture frame for some art my sweetie found. These are the steps along the way.
The frame needed to have a 9 inch square piece of glass (the art is 7.5×7.75 inches). So I started with a 4 foot long stick of poplar I ripped off the edge of a 3/4×8 inch board. I made it about an inch wide.
I clamped it in my face vise and hit it with the #7 jointer plane to get a straight square edge on the surface I had cut.
After setting it on my sticking board, I put a 6/16 profile on one corner, a 10/16 profile on the adjacent corner, then a 1/4×3/16 rabbet on the back to hold the glass, mat board(s), art, and backing board. With sharpening the moulding planes, that took a little over an hour.
![Wood Sleeve Headgear Pattern Hardwood]()
I've used a chisel to fix up the rabbets on the back before, and that'll work too, but it can be harder work to get the corners good.
Attachments
Mitered corners and glue up
Next up was cutting the stick into lengths for the frame, mitering the corners, and gluing it up.
First cutting to length. I cut the first 45 using a cheap miter box.
![Wood Bumper Automotive exterior Automotive tire Hardwood]()
Then I got the end more exact using a shooting board and shooting board plane.
![Hand tool Ruler Tool Office ruler Wood]()
Then I measured along the rabbet 9 inches and drew a 45 to mark where the next cut had to be.
Lather, rinse, repeat until I had four sides of a frame. Glue them and clamp them up until tomorrow.
![Wood Gas Hardwood Rectangle Metal]()
Next up was cutting the stick into lengths for the frame, mitering the corners, and gluing it up.
First cutting to length. I cut the first 45 using a cheap miter box.
Then I got the end more exact using a shooting board and shooting board plane.
Then I measured along the rabbet 9 inches and drew a 45 to mark where the next cut had to be.
Lather, rinse, repeat until I had four sides of a frame. Glue them and clamp them up until tomorrow.
Attachments
Reinforcing the miters and painting
First, since I'm using milk paint, I mixed 15ml of powder and water to make 30ml in a measuring cup. Every time I took a break, I give it a stir. After about an hour, it's ready to go.
![Liquid Fluid Wood Gas Cylinder]()
To reinforce the corners, I chucked a modified spade bit (I ground off the central spur so it won't poke through a piece I'm putting a shallow hole in, but it's really only safe in a drill press or post drill this way) in my post drill.
![Musical instrument Plant Glass bottle Bottle String instrument]()
![Drilling Wood Drill Milling Gas]()
I clamped down the frame and drilled a shallow (<⅛ inch deep) hole in each corner of the frame. I had to remove a bit of the waste in the center of each hole with a gouge.
I had an ash dowel that's a little under 3/4 inch laying around (a turning experiment), so I cut off four 3/16 inch pieces. Glue one into each of the holes in the frame, and the fragile miter joint is now reinforced.
![Brown Rectangle Wood Wood stain Hardwood]()
After writing most of this (a half hour), the clamps could come off and I could hit the front of the frame with the first coat of paint. It'll get a total of three or four, and the back will get a couple.
![Rectangle Wood Fixture Gas Tints and shades]()
I use cheap foam brushes, and a frame this size used about 15ml on the first coat, so I diluted the remaining paint with about 10 ml more water, and set it in the fridge while I went to have lunch. The thinner mix will work better for later coats, flowing better and covering gaps.
[Added later]
After lunch, I continued putting on thin coats of paint. As I guessed, the front needed four coats before I was happy with it (and a little sanding with 180 grit when I'd gotten a little sloppy with the second coat), and the back took three coats. I grew out about 5 ml of the thinned paint when I figured I was done, so I mixed up about the right amount.
First, since I'm using milk paint, I mixed 15ml of powder and water to make 30ml in a measuring cup. Every time I took a break, I give it a stir. After about an hour, it's ready to go.
To reinforce the corners, I chucked a modified spade bit (I ground off the central spur so it won't poke through a piece I'm putting a shallow hole in, but it's really only safe in a drill press or post drill this way) in my post drill.
I clamped down the frame and drilled a shallow (<⅛ inch deep) hole in each corner of the frame. I had to remove a bit of the waste in the center of each hole with a gouge.
I had an ash dowel that's a little under 3/4 inch laying around (a turning experiment), so I cut off four 3/16 inch pieces. Glue one into each of the holes in the frame, and the fragile miter joint is now reinforced.
After writing most of this (a half hour), the clamps could come off and I could hit the front of the frame with the first coat of paint. It'll get a total of three or four, and the back will get a couple.
I use cheap foam brushes, and a frame this size used about 15ml on the first coat, so I diluted the remaining paint with about 10 ml more water, and set it in the fridge while I went to have lunch. The thinner mix will work better for later coats, flowing better and covering gaps.
[Added later]
After lunch, I continued putting on thin coats of paint. As I guessed, the front needed four coats before I was happy with it (and a little sanding with 180 grit when I'd gotten a little sloppy with the second coat), and the back took three coats. I grew out about 5 ml of the thinned paint when I figured I was done, so I mixed up about the right amount.
Attachments
Neat corner reinforcement! So is the modification on the spade bit that it's a little narrower? (I'm a power tool guy, so I think I'd reach for a Forstner bit for this first)Reinforcing the miters and painting
First, since I'm using milk paint, I mixed 15ml of powder and water to make 30ml in a measuring cup. Every time I took a break, I give it a stir. After about an hour, it's ready to go.
![Liquid Fluid Wood Gas Cylinder]()
To reinforce the corners, I chucked a modified spade bit (I ground off the central spur so it won't poke through a piece I'm putting a shallow hole in, but it's really only safe in a drill press or post drill this way) in my post drill.
![Musical instrument Plant Glass bottle Bottle String instrument]()
![Drilling Wood Drill Milling Gas]()
I clamped down the frame and drilled a shallow (<⅛ inch deep) hole in each corner of the frame. I had to remove a bit of the waste in the center of each hole with a gouge.
I had an ash dowel that's a little under 3/4 inch laying around (a turning experiment), so I cut off four 3/16 inch pieces. Glue one into each of the holes in the frame, and the fragile miter joint is now reinforced.
![Brown Rectangle Wood Wood stain Hardwood]()
After writing most of this (a half hour), the clamps could come off and I could hit the front of the frame with the first coat of paint. It'll get a total of three or four, and the back will get a couple.
![Rectangle Wood Fixture Gas Tints and shades]()
I use cheap foam brushes, and a frame this size used about 15ml on the first coat, so I diluted the remaining paint with about 10 ml more water, and set it in the fridge while I went to have lunch. The thinner mix will work better for later coats, flowing better and covering gaps.
[Added later]
After lunch, I continued putting on thin coats of paint. As I guessed, the front needed four coats before I was happy with it (and a little sanding with 180 grit when I'd gotten a little sloppy with the second coat), and the back took three coats. I grew out about 5 ml of the thinned paint when I figured I was done, so I mixed up about the right amount.
Attachments
I nice simple project well written, and showing a very interesting concept, using a modified spade bit, and associated process to reinforce a typical and well used woodworking frame joint.Reinforcing the miters and painting
First, since I'm using milk paint, I mixed 15ml of powder and water to make 30ml in a measuring cup. Every time I took a break, I give it a stir. After about an hour, it's ready to go.
![Liquid Fluid Wood Gas Cylinder]()
To reinforce the corners, I chucked a modified spade bit (I ground off the central spur so it won't poke through a piece I'm putting a shallow hole in, but it's really only safe in a drill press or post drill this way) in my post drill.
![Musical instrument Plant Glass bottle Bottle String instrument]()
![Drilling Wood Drill Milling Gas]()
I clamped down the frame and drilled a shallow (<⅛ inch deep) hole in each corner of the frame. I had to remove a bit of the waste in the center of each hole with a gouge.
I had an ash dowel that's a little under 3/4 inch laying around (a turning experiment), so I cut off four 3/16 inch pieces. Glue one into each of the holes in the frame, and the fragile miter joint is now reinforced.
![Brown Rectangle Wood Wood stain Hardwood]()
After writing most of this (a half hour), the clamps could come off and I could hit the front of the frame with the first coat of paint. It'll get a total of three or four, and the back will get a couple.
![Rectangle Wood Fixture Gas Tints and shades]()
I use cheap foam brushes, and a frame this size used about 15ml on the first coat, so I diluted the remaining paint with about 10 ml more water, and set it in the fridge while I went to have lunch. The thinner mix will work better for later coats, flowing better and covering gaps.
[Added later]
After lunch, I continued putting on thin coats of paint. As I guessed, the front needed four coats before I was happy with it (and a little sanding with 180 grit when I'd gotten a little sloppy with the second coat), and the back took three coats. I grew out about 5 ml of the thinned paint when I figured I was done, so I mixed up about the right amount.
I see no gaps either physically or in the literal wordsmith sense.
A work of art so to speak
Attachments
The spade bit normally has a protruding bit in the center to keep it from wandering, Dan. The modification is I ground that off so it won't poke a hole through the front, but it's really only safe in a post drill or drill press now. I forget what I was doing when I originally modified it, but I use it a couple times a year for making a circle in the surface of something.Reinforcing the miters and painting
First, since I'm using milk paint, I mixed 15ml of powder and water to make 30ml in a measuring cup. Every time I took a break, I give it a stir. After about an hour, it's ready to go.
![Liquid Fluid Wood Gas Cylinder]()
To reinforce the corners, I chucked a modified spade bit (I ground off the central spur so it won't poke through a piece I'm putting a shallow hole in, but it's really only safe in a drill press or post drill this way) in my post drill.
![Musical instrument Plant Glass bottle Bottle String instrument]()
![Drilling Wood Drill Milling Gas]()
I clamped down the frame and drilled a shallow (<⅛ inch deep) hole in each corner of the frame. I had to remove a bit of the waste in the center of each hole with a gouge.
I had an ash dowel that's a little under 3/4 inch laying around (a turning experiment), so I cut off four 3/16 inch pieces. Glue one into each of the holes in the frame, and the fragile miter joint is now reinforced.
![Brown Rectangle Wood Wood stain Hardwood]()
After writing most of this (a half hour), the clamps could come off and I could hit the front of the frame with the first coat of paint. It'll get a total of three or four, and the back will get a couple.
![Rectangle Wood Fixture Gas Tints and shades]()
I use cheap foam brushes, and a frame this size used about 15ml on the first coat, so I diluted the remaining paint with about 10 ml more water, and set it in the fridge while I went to have lunch. The thinner mix will work better for later coats, flowing better and covering gaps.
[Added later]
After lunch, I continued putting on thin coats of paint. As I guessed, the front needed four coats before I was happy with it (and a little sanding with 180 grit when I'd gotten a little sloppy with the second coat), and the back took three coats. I grew out about 5 ml of the thinned paint when I figured I was done, so I mixed up about the right amount.
I don't have any forstner bits, but that'd work too.
Thanks, Rob! Had someone ask me, "so aren't picture frames pretty simple?" I figure this, once I'm done with it, will answer that question for them.
Attachments
Nice job Dave!Reinforcing the miters and painting
First, since I'm using milk paint, I mixed 15ml of powder and water to make 30ml in a measuring cup. Every time I took a break, I give it a stir. After about an hour, it's ready to go.
![Liquid Fluid Wood Gas Cylinder]()
To reinforce the corners, I chucked a modified spade bit (I ground off the central spur so it won't poke through a piece I'm putting a shallow hole in, but it's really only safe in a drill press or post drill this way) in my post drill.
![Musical instrument Plant Glass bottle Bottle String instrument]()
![Drilling Wood Drill Milling Gas]()
I clamped down the frame and drilled a shallow (<⅛ inch deep) hole in each corner of the frame. I had to remove a bit of the waste in the center of each hole with a gouge.
I had an ash dowel that's a little under 3/4 inch laying around (a turning experiment), so I cut off four 3/16 inch pieces. Glue one into each of the holes in the frame, and the fragile miter joint is now reinforced.
![Brown Rectangle Wood Wood stain Hardwood]()
After writing most of this (a half hour), the clamps could come off and I could hit the front of the frame with the first coat of paint. It'll get a total of three or four, and the back will get a couple.
![Rectangle Wood Fixture Gas Tints and shades]()
I use cheap foam brushes, and a frame this size used about 15ml on the first coat, so I diluted the remaining paint with about 10 ml more water, and set it in the fridge while I went to have lunch. The thinner mix will work better for later coats, flowing better and covering gaps.
[Added later]
After lunch, I continued putting on thin coats of paint. As I guessed, the front needed four coats before I was happy with it (and a little sanding with 180 grit when I'd gotten a little sloppy with the second coat), and the back took three coats. I grew out about 5 ml of the thinned paint when I figured I was done, so I mixed up about the right amount.
It just occurred to me that the spade bit would hold position better if the shank were shortened. I realize you likely didn't have a issue but you're not likely to drill a deep hole with that bit. Might be an improvement…
Attachments
Yeah, Steve. I've thought of shortening the shank every time I've used it, but in the post drill it holds well enough that I haven't wanted to get out the hacksaw and cut through the shank. Yet.Reinforcing the miters and painting
First, since I'm using milk paint, I mixed 15ml of powder and water to make 30ml in a measuring cup. Every time I took a break, I give it a stir. After about an hour, it's ready to go.
![Liquid Fluid Wood Gas Cylinder]()
To reinforce the corners, I chucked a modified spade bit (I ground off the central spur so it won't poke through a piece I'm putting a shallow hole in, but it's really only safe in a drill press or post drill this way) in my post drill.
![Musical instrument Plant Glass bottle Bottle String instrument]()
![Drilling Wood Drill Milling Gas]()
I clamped down the frame and drilled a shallow (<⅛ inch deep) hole in each corner of the frame. I had to remove a bit of the waste in the center of each hole with a gouge.
I had an ash dowel that's a little under 3/4 inch laying around (a turning experiment), so I cut off four 3/16 inch pieces. Glue one into each of the holes in the frame, and the fragile miter joint is now reinforced.
![Brown Rectangle Wood Wood stain Hardwood]()
After writing most of this (a half hour), the clamps could come off and I could hit the front of the frame with the first coat of paint. It'll get a total of three or four, and the back will get a couple.
![Rectangle Wood Fixture Gas Tints and shades]()
I use cheap foam brushes, and a frame this size used about 15ml on the first coat, so I diluted the remaining paint with about 10 ml more water, and set it in the fridge while I went to have lunch. The thinner mix will work better for later coats, flowing better and covering gaps.
[Added later]
After lunch, I continued putting on thin coats of paint. As I guessed, the front needed four coats before I was happy with it (and a little sanding with 180 grit when I'd gotten a little sloppy with the second coat), and the back took three coats. I grew out about 5 ml of the thinned paint when I figured I was done, so I mixed up about the right amount.
Attachments
Nice work Dave, I especially like the single clamp method for clamping the frame up as shown in the previous blog, pretty slick.Reinforcing the miters and painting
First, since I'm using milk paint, I mixed 15ml of powder and water to make 30ml in a measuring cup. Every time I took a break, I give it a stir. After about an hour, it's ready to go.
![Liquid Fluid Wood Gas Cylinder]()
To reinforce the corners, I chucked a modified spade bit (I ground off the central spur so it won't poke through a piece I'm putting a shallow hole in, but it's really only safe in a drill press or post drill this way) in my post drill.
![Musical instrument Plant Glass bottle Bottle String instrument]()
![Drilling Wood Drill Milling Gas]()
I clamped down the frame and drilled a shallow (<⅛ inch deep) hole in each corner of the frame. I had to remove a bit of the waste in the center of each hole with a gouge.
I had an ash dowel that's a little under 3/4 inch laying around (a turning experiment), so I cut off four 3/16 inch pieces. Glue one into each of the holes in the frame, and the fragile miter joint is now reinforced.
![Brown Rectangle Wood Wood stain Hardwood]()
After writing most of this (a half hour), the clamps could come off and I could hit the front of the frame with the first coat of paint. It'll get a total of three or four, and the back will get a couple.
![Rectangle Wood Fixture Gas Tints and shades]()
I use cheap foam brushes, and a frame this size used about 15ml on the first coat, so I diluted the remaining paint with about 10 ml more water, and set it in the fridge while I went to have lunch. The thinner mix will work better for later coats, flowing better and covering gaps.
[Added later]
After lunch, I continued putting on thin coats of paint. As I guessed, the front needed four coats before I was happy with it (and a little sanding with 180 grit when I'd gotten a little sloppy with the second coat), and the back took three coats. I grew out about 5 ml of the thinned paint when I figured I was done, so I mixed up about the right amount.
Regarding the reinforced corner miters, and slicing the discs from a dowel; do you find this to work well in that the discs are end grain and somewhat fragile themselves? Maybe they aren't as I think, but I'm working on a small iPhone 5 while traveling & it's hard to determine grain orientation.
Attachments
Thanks, Tom. They're end-grain in the glue joint, but I oriented the grain cross-wise to the corner, so it's about as strong as it can be for a thin disc. They would be stronger if I cut them the other way, but I'm hoping this will be good enough, and I didn't have a scrap handy to make discs oriented the other direction. I might make up a few dozen next time I'm bored so I have them on hand, kinda like the thin oak wedges I have for wedged tenons, or the butterflies I have for fixing checks.Reinforcing the miters and painting
First, since I'm using milk paint, I mixed 15ml of powder and water to make 30ml in a measuring cup. Every time I took a break, I give it a stir. After about an hour, it's ready to go.
![Liquid Fluid Wood Gas Cylinder]()
To reinforce the corners, I chucked a modified spade bit (I ground off the central spur so it won't poke through a piece I'm putting a shallow hole in, but it's really only safe in a drill press or post drill this way) in my post drill.
![Musical instrument Plant Glass bottle Bottle String instrument]()
![Drilling Wood Drill Milling Gas]()
I clamped down the frame and drilled a shallow (<⅛ inch deep) hole in each corner of the frame. I had to remove a bit of the waste in the center of each hole with a gouge.
I had an ash dowel that's a little under 3/4 inch laying around (a turning experiment), so I cut off four 3/16 inch pieces. Glue one into each of the holes in the frame, and the fragile miter joint is now reinforced.
![Brown Rectangle Wood Wood stain Hardwood]()
After writing most of this (a half hour), the clamps could come off and I could hit the front of the frame with the first coat of paint. It'll get a total of three or four, and the back will get a couple.
![Rectangle Wood Fixture Gas Tints and shades]()
I use cheap foam brushes, and a frame this size used about 15ml on the first coat, so I diluted the remaining paint with about 10 ml more water, and set it in the fridge while I went to have lunch. The thinner mix will work better for later coats, flowing better and covering gaps.
[Added later]
After lunch, I continued putting on thin coats of paint. As I guessed, the front needed four coats before I was happy with it (and a little sanding with 180 grit when I'd gotten a little sloppy with the second coat), and the back took three coats. I grew out about 5 ml of the thinned paint when I figured I was done, so I mixed up about the right amount.
Attachments
Well from my experience they are far from simple.Reinforcing the miters and painting
First, since I'm using milk paint, I mixed 15ml of powder and water to make 30ml in a measuring cup. Every time I took a break, I give it a stir. After about an hour, it's ready to go.
![Liquid Fluid Wood Gas Cylinder]()
To reinforce the corners, I chucked a modified spade bit (I ground off the central spur so it won't poke through a piece I'm putting a shallow hole in, but it's really only safe in a drill press or post drill this way) in my post drill.
![Musical instrument Plant Glass bottle Bottle String instrument]()
![Drilling Wood Drill Milling Gas]()
I clamped down the frame and drilled a shallow (<⅛ inch deep) hole in each corner of the frame. I had to remove a bit of the waste in the center of each hole with a gouge.
I had an ash dowel that's a little under 3/4 inch laying around (a turning experiment), so I cut off four 3/16 inch pieces. Glue one into each of the holes in the frame, and the fragile miter joint is now reinforced.
![Brown Rectangle Wood Wood stain Hardwood]()
After writing most of this (a half hour), the clamps could come off and I could hit the front of the frame with the first coat of paint. It'll get a total of three or four, and the back will get a couple.
![Rectangle Wood Fixture Gas Tints and shades]()
I use cheap foam brushes, and a frame this size used about 15ml on the first coat, so I diluted the remaining paint with about 10 ml more water, and set it in the fridge while I went to have lunch. The thinner mix will work better for later coats, flowing better and covering gaps.
[Added later]
After lunch, I continued putting on thin coats of paint. As I guessed, the front needed four coats before I was happy with it (and a little sanding with 180 grit when I'd gotten a little sloppy with the second coat), and the back took three coats. I grew out about 5 ml of the thinned paint when I figured I was done, so I mixed up about the right amount.
Not only do you need to be very precise and accurate cutting to allow all four joints to close perfectly but the vertical error need to be considered as well.
I made a 45 deg sled for the table saw from rubbish this week and it took quite a lot of tuning I assure you.
Its only one sided but there are some SKA needed to get it to work and produce the acceptable accuracy
As you are aware the thinner the width of the timber the less the error is.
Go wider and the error of angle subtends.
The jig.
The adjustments
The results
after quite a bit of tuning I might add!
Mind you if you use a 90 deg jig you dont have to be so precise but need to end match the joints exactly.
It will be interesting to see the comments on the feedback as it progresses.
Attachments
Rob, I don't mind hand-tuning things just before the glue-up, but I got the angles close enough that there was less than a 1/64th of gap on one of the corners, and the other three showed no visible gap, so I just held one of the pieces for that corner on the shooting board with the piece maybe an eighth from the fence. One pass with the plane, check it again, and it looked good enough. You can see a tiny gap on the lower right corner in the last picture on the previous installment (reproduced here).Reinforcing the miters and painting
First, since I'm using milk paint, I mixed 15ml of powder and water to make 30ml in a measuring cup. Every time I took a break, I give it a stir. After about an hour, it's ready to go.
![Liquid Fluid Wood Gas Cylinder]()
To reinforce the corners, I chucked a modified spade bit (I ground off the central spur so it won't poke through a piece I'm putting a shallow hole in, but it's really only safe in a drill press or post drill this way) in my post drill.
![Musical instrument Plant Glass bottle Bottle String instrument]()
![Drilling Wood Drill Milling Gas]()
I clamped down the frame and drilled a shallow (<⅛ inch deep) hole in each corner of the frame. I had to remove a bit of the waste in the center of each hole with a gouge.
I had an ash dowel that's a little under 3/4 inch laying around (a turning experiment), so I cut off four 3/16 inch pieces. Glue one into each of the holes in the frame, and the fragile miter joint is now reinforced.
![Brown Rectangle Wood Wood stain Hardwood]()
After writing most of this (a half hour), the clamps could come off and I could hit the front of the frame with the first coat of paint. It'll get a total of three or four, and the back will get a couple.
![Rectangle Wood Fixture Gas Tints and shades]()
I use cheap foam brushes, and a frame this size used about 15ml on the first coat, so I diluted the remaining paint with about 10 ml more water, and set it in the fridge while I went to have lunch. The thinner mix will work better for later coats, flowing better and covering gaps.
[Added later]
After lunch, I continued putting on thin coats of paint. As I guessed, the front needed four coats before I was happy with it (and a little sanding with 180 grit when I'd gotten a little sloppy with the second coat), and the back took three coats. I grew out about 5 ml of the thinned paint when I figured I was done, so I mixed up about the right amount.
You can also see the adjustment I made on the upper left corner of that same picture. The profiles didn't match up exactly, so I matched them "pretty close" with the knife, and then sanded to feather it a little with some 60 grit after it came out of the clamp. It's poplar so soft and easy to adjust a little. If it were a 3 foot frame, I'd have to be more exacting, but most of what I'm framing at the moment are small things. And my eye is pretty fussy, so if I get it close enough that it doesn't bother me, most people won't notice the issues.
I may buy the miter trimmer if I keep making frames. We'll see.
Attachments
Interesting process in making this frame Dave. I also like the idea of the reinforcement on the back of it. I may try that in the future. I like spines but on occasion I can do without.Reinforcing the miters and painting
First, since I'm using milk paint, I mixed 15ml of powder and water to make 30ml in a measuring cup. Every time I took a break, I give it a stir. After about an hour, it's ready to go.
![Liquid Fluid Wood Gas Cylinder]()
To reinforce the corners, I chucked a modified spade bit (I ground off the central spur so it won't poke through a piece I'm putting a shallow hole in, but it's really only safe in a drill press or post drill this way) in my post drill.
![Musical instrument Plant Glass bottle Bottle String instrument]()
![Drilling Wood Drill Milling Gas]()
I clamped down the frame and drilled a shallow (<⅛ inch deep) hole in each corner of the frame. I had to remove a bit of the waste in the center of each hole with a gouge.
I had an ash dowel that's a little under 3/4 inch laying around (a turning experiment), so I cut off four 3/16 inch pieces. Glue one into each of the holes in the frame, and the fragile miter joint is now reinforced.
![Brown Rectangle Wood Wood stain Hardwood]()
After writing most of this (a half hour), the clamps could come off and I could hit the front of the frame with the first coat of paint. It'll get a total of three or four, and the back will get a couple.
![Rectangle Wood Fixture Gas Tints and shades]()
I use cheap foam brushes, and a frame this size used about 15ml on the first coat, so I diluted the remaining paint with about 10 ml more water, and set it in the fridge while I went to have lunch. The thinner mix will work better for later coats, flowing better and covering gaps.
[Added later]
After lunch, I continued putting on thin coats of paint. As I guessed, the front needed four coats before I was happy with it (and a little sanding with 180 grit when I'd gotten a little sloppy with the second coat), and the back took three coats. I grew out about 5 ml of the thinned paint when I figured I was done, so I mixed up about the right amount.
Attachments
Thanks, Dave. I saw it on the internet somewhere, and it was recommended as the "quickest and easiest" way to reinforce a miter. But they cut the discs from a piece of veneer with a hole saw, I think. I don't have a hole saw, but I can turn a dowel with the grain sideways and then slice it up pretty easily by hand.Reinforcing the miters and painting
First, since I'm using milk paint, I mixed 15ml of powder and water to make 30ml in a measuring cup. Every time I took a break, I give it a stir. After about an hour, it's ready to go.
![Liquid Fluid Wood Gas Cylinder]()
To reinforce the corners, I chucked a modified spade bit (I ground off the central spur so it won't poke through a piece I'm putting a shallow hole in, but it's really only safe in a drill press or post drill this way) in my post drill.
![Musical instrument Plant Glass bottle Bottle String instrument]()
![Drilling Wood Drill Milling Gas]()
I clamped down the frame and drilled a shallow (<⅛ inch deep) hole in each corner of the frame. I had to remove a bit of the waste in the center of each hole with a gouge.
I had an ash dowel that's a little under 3/4 inch laying around (a turning experiment), so I cut off four 3/16 inch pieces. Glue one into each of the holes in the frame, and the fragile miter joint is now reinforced.
![Brown Rectangle Wood Wood stain Hardwood]()
After writing most of this (a half hour), the clamps could come off and I could hit the front of the frame with the first coat of paint. It'll get a total of three or four, and the back will get a couple.
![Rectangle Wood Fixture Gas Tints and shades]()
I use cheap foam brushes, and a frame this size used about 15ml on the first coat, so I diluted the remaining paint with about 10 ml more water, and set it in the fridge while I went to have lunch. The thinner mix will work better for later coats, flowing better and covering gaps.
[Added later]
After lunch, I continued putting on thin coats of paint. As I guessed, the front needed four coats before I was happy with it (and a little sanding with 180 grit when I'd gotten a little sloppy with the second coat), and the back took three coats. I grew out about 5 ml of the thinned paint when I figured I was done, so I mixed up about the right amount.
If I'm doing a thicker miter, like in a box, I'll reinforce it with splines, but on a picture frame it's thin enough that my usual method of cutting the slot for the spline by hand seemed too likely to go wrong.
Attachments
Picture perfect!Reinforcing the miters and painting
First, since I'm using milk paint, I mixed 15ml of powder and water to make 30ml in a measuring cup. Every time I took a break, I give it a stir. After about an hour, it's ready to go.
![Liquid Fluid Wood Gas Cylinder]()
To reinforce the corners, I chucked a modified spade bit (I ground off the central spur so it won't poke through a piece I'm putting a shallow hole in, but it's really only safe in a drill press or post drill this way) in my post drill.
![Musical instrument Plant Glass bottle Bottle String instrument]()
![Drilling Wood Drill Milling Gas]()
I clamped down the frame and drilled a shallow (<⅛ inch deep) hole in each corner of the frame. I had to remove a bit of the waste in the center of each hole with a gouge.
I had an ash dowel that's a little under 3/4 inch laying around (a turning experiment), so I cut off four 3/16 inch pieces. Glue one into each of the holes in the frame, and the fragile miter joint is now reinforced.
![Brown Rectangle Wood Wood stain Hardwood]()
After writing most of this (a half hour), the clamps could come off and I could hit the front of the frame with the first coat of paint. It'll get a total of three or four, and the back will get a couple.
![Rectangle Wood Fixture Gas Tints and shades]()
I use cheap foam brushes, and a frame this size used about 15ml on the first coat, so I diluted the remaining paint with about 10 ml more water, and set it in the fridge while I went to have lunch. The thinner mix will work better for later coats, flowing better and covering gaps.
[Added later]
After lunch, I continued putting on thin coats of paint. As I guessed, the front needed four coats before I was happy with it (and a little sanding with 180 grit when I'd gotten a little sloppy with the second coat), and the back took three coats. I grew out about 5 ml of the thinned paint when I figured I was done, so I mixed up about the right amount.
Attachments
Thanks, Rob! One thing I've definitely gotten better at is knowing how to fix slight imperfections after the fact.Reinforcing the miters and painting
First, since I'm using milk paint, I mixed 15ml of powder and water to make 30ml in a measuring cup. Every time I took a break, I give it a stir. After about an hour, it's ready to go.
![Liquid Fluid Wood Gas Cylinder]()
To reinforce the corners, I chucked a modified spade bit (I ground off the central spur so it won't poke through a piece I'm putting a shallow hole in, but it's really only safe in a drill press or post drill this way) in my post drill.
![Musical instrument Plant Glass bottle Bottle String instrument]()
![Drilling Wood Drill Milling Gas]()
I clamped down the frame and drilled a shallow (<⅛ inch deep) hole in each corner of the frame. I had to remove a bit of the waste in the center of each hole with a gouge.
I had an ash dowel that's a little under 3/4 inch laying around (a turning experiment), so I cut off four 3/16 inch pieces. Glue one into each of the holes in the frame, and the fragile miter joint is now reinforced.
![Brown Rectangle Wood Wood stain Hardwood]()
After writing most of this (a half hour), the clamps could come off and I could hit the front of the frame with the first coat of paint. It'll get a total of three or four, and the back will get a couple.
![Rectangle Wood Fixture Gas Tints and shades]()
I use cheap foam brushes, and a frame this size used about 15ml on the first coat, so I diluted the remaining paint with about 10 ml more water, and set it in the fridge while I went to have lunch. The thinner mix will work better for later coats, flowing better and covering gaps.
[Added later]
After lunch, I continued putting on thin coats of paint. As I guessed, the front needed four coats before I was happy with it (and a little sanding with 180 grit when I'd gotten a little sloppy with the second coat), and the back took three coats. I grew out about 5 ml of the thinned paint when I figured I was done, so I mixed up about the right amount.
Attachments
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