[helluvawreck]

Lesson 9 - Cutting Bevels on the Scroll Saw

Well, you all should have had time to practice cutting all the inside curves and corners on the frames of the practice patterns that I gave you in the previous lessons. Now we should all be ready to move on to learning how to cut on a bevel.

One of the reasons that I like the scroll saw so much is because it is a very versatile tool. For a relatively minimal start up cost, you can get a tool that has the ability to make a great variety of projects. For many years, my scroll saw and drill press were pretty much the only power tools I owned. Yet, I was still able to create lots of wonderful things using them. With the addition of a few other small hand tools, such as a sander and a small router or laminate trimmer, it opens up a whole array of exciting techniques you can use to make your projects more interesting and fun.

Most scroll saws have the ability to make bevel or angled cuts. This is typically achieved by tilting the table of the saw either to the left or the right so that the blade is cutting on an angle. Some saws, like the Excalibur saw (the one I have) allows you to tilt the head of the saw and keeps the table flat. This makes is much easier for you to cut on an angle, as you don't have to worry about holding the piece at an angle when you are cutting, and you can concentrate on the cut at hand.

While tilting the blade is possible, I wouldn't advise you to do so in order to make miters and things that need precise angles. Since the blades are so thin on the scroll saw, they will flex while cutting, creating cuts that are not perfectly straight. This makes it nearly impossible to make a clean miter joint.

However, bevel cutting on the scroll saw can be very useful to create things like self-framing plaques and ornaments, as well as certain types of baskets and candy dishes. I also use this method to make all of my candle tray patterns, as I like the edge design raised up a bit from the center that the candle sits on.

For our purposes, in this lesson we are going to explore making bevel cuts to create a self-framing plaque. I like designing and cutting self-framing plaques because as the name implies, the frame is cut from the same piece of wood as the design.

Many of you may not have realized that the practice frame pattern I gave you to scroll saw in lesson 7 is part of self-framing butterfly plaque that I designed. Although I gave you the pattern for the outside fretwork of the frame, I left out the central picture in the middle because I didn't want you to jump ahead. I have now posted the full pattern for you and you can download it HERE.

Please go to my Google Document account and download it now. If you already did the frame, just cut the inner portion of the design out and apply it to the frame as I instructed before (using blue painter's tape underneath) If you finished cutting the fretwork border of the frame from the last lesson and have left the pattern in place, you could just stick the inner portion of the pattern over the existing pattern and go from there.

For the sample plaque, I used 1/2" maple and I angled the saw 4 degrees to the outside of the circle. Since I cut my piece in a clockwise direction, I tilted the head of my Excalibur scroll saw to the right that amount. If you were using a scroll saw such as a DeWalt, in which the table tilts, you would tilt the saw table so that the left side of the table is lower than the right side, causing the angle of the blade to be radiating outward from the center of the plaque.

I have made some drawings to help you understand what we are doing here. It shows a typical piece of this type from a cut away side view. The center portion represents the center of the plaque, while the two outside sections represent the frame. The red lines are the kerf lines left from your saw blade, angled to the outside of the piece.

Although these drawings are somewhat exaggerated to better illustrate the point, the second drawing shows the space that is left from the blade, or the kerf. This is why it is important to consider not only the angle of the cut, but also the blade size. If you wish the piece to drop down a bit farther into the frame, simply use a larger blade with a wider kerf.

Once the piece is cut, you can push it into the frame and lock in, leaving the frame protruding to the front. The frame can and should be glued to keep it in place once all the cutting is finished. I also found that it look quite nice if you slightly round over the inside edge of the frame with a router or laminate trimmer and a small round over bit. (Do this before gluing naturally!)

If you wish to have less of a drop of the piece, simply increase the angle by half a degree or so. The increased angle will not allow the center to drop as far through the frame.

I strongly suggest that you test your angle and blade size on a scrap of wood that is the same thickness as the piece you are cutting. For plaques such as this, I frequently use the waste areas from the corners for testing. Simply draw a small circle and cut a test cut at the given angle and then adjust your saw accordingly. it is better to be safe than ruin a nice piece of wood.

I made a short video of me demonstrating how I adjust my saw and also of me cutting the circle. You can see how easy it is to do on my saw, as the table is still level and I don't have to fight gravity to turn the wood while it is on an angle. However, I owned a DeWalt saw for almost 15 years and the angle is so slight in cutting like this that it isn't really a factor. Enjoy the video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=-w_R1rA59c4

I have used this method with many different scroll sawn pieces, from pictures to baskets (like the one that Leldon cut here) and also on small items such as ornaments. This process really makes it easy to make an all-inclusive project and not have to worry about purchasing or making a frame for it. Once you try it, I am sure you will become a big fan of bevel cutting on the scroll saw!

Please feel free to ask me any questions you may have about this process. I will always try to be here to help you and I am sure that others on this forum will help with answers too.

Sheila, I think this series is one of the best teaching series that I've seen on Lumberjocks. Since I've started carving the scroll saw is indispensable to me. Sooo I really do appreciate what you've done here.

 

[RegisG]

Lesson 9 - Cutting Bevels on the Scroll Saw

Well, you all should have had time to practice cutting all the inside curves and corners on the frames of the practice patterns that I gave you in the previous lessons. Now we should all be ready to move on to learning how to cut on a bevel.

One of the reasons that I like the scroll saw so much is because it is a very versatile tool. For a relatively minimal start up cost, you can get a tool that has the ability to make a great variety of projects. For many years, my scroll saw and drill press were pretty much the only power tools I owned. Yet, I was still able to create lots of wonderful things using them. With the addition of a few other small hand tools, such as a sander and a small router or laminate trimmer, it opens up a whole array of exciting techniques you can use to make your projects more interesting and fun.

Most scroll saws have the ability to make bevel or angled cuts. This is typically achieved by tilting the table of the saw either to the left or the right so that the blade is cutting on an angle. Some saws, like the Excalibur saw (the one I have) allows you to tilt the head of the saw and keeps the table flat. This makes is much easier for you to cut on an angle, as you don't have to worry about holding the piece at an angle when you are cutting, and you can concentrate on the cut at hand.

While tilting the blade is possible, I wouldn't advise you to do so in order to make miters and things that need precise angles. Since the blades are so thin on the scroll saw, they will flex while cutting, creating cuts that are not perfectly straight. This makes it nearly impossible to make a clean miter joint.

However, bevel cutting on the scroll saw can be very useful to create things like self-framing plaques and ornaments, as well as certain types of baskets and candy dishes. I also use this method to make all of my candle tray patterns, as I like the edge design raised up a bit from the center that the candle sits on.

For our purposes, in this lesson we are going to explore making bevel cuts to create a self-framing plaque. I like designing and cutting self-framing plaques because as the name implies, the frame is cut from the same piece of wood as the design.

Many of you may not have realized that the practice frame pattern I gave you to scroll saw in lesson 7 is part of self-framing butterfly plaque that I designed. Although I gave you the pattern for the outside fretwork of the frame, I left out the central picture in the middle because I didn't want you to jump ahead. I have now posted the full pattern for you and you can download it HERE.

Please go to my Google Document account and download it now. If you already did the frame, just cut the inner portion of the design out and apply it to the frame as I instructed before (using blue painter's tape underneath) If you finished cutting the fretwork border of the frame from the last lesson and have left the pattern in place, you could just stick the inner portion of the pattern over the existing pattern and go from there.

For the sample plaque, I used 1/2" maple and I angled the saw 4 degrees to the outside of the circle. Since I cut my piece in a clockwise direction, I tilted the head of my Excalibur scroll saw to the right that amount. If you were using a scroll saw such as a DeWalt, in which the table tilts, you would tilt the saw table so that the left side of the table is lower than the right side, causing the angle of the blade to be radiating outward from the center of the plaque.

I have made some drawings to help you understand what we are doing here. It shows a typical piece of this type from a cut away side view. The center portion represents the center of the plaque, while the two outside sections represent the frame. The red lines are the kerf lines left from your saw blade, angled to the outside of the piece.

Although these drawings are somewhat exaggerated to better illustrate the point, the second drawing shows the space that is left from the blade, or the kerf. This is why it is important to consider not only the angle of the cut, but also the blade size. If you wish the piece to drop down a bit farther into the frame, simply use a larger blade with a wider kerf.

Once the piece is cut, you can push it into the frame and lock in, leaving the frame protruding to the front. The frame can and should be glued to keep it in place once all the cutting is finished. I also found that it look quite nice if you slightly round over the inside edge of the frame with a router or laminate trimmer and a small round over bit. (Do this before gluing naturally!)

If you wish to have less of a drop of the piece, simply increase the angle by half a degree or so. The increased angle will not allow the center to drop as far through the frame.

I strongly suggest that you test your angle and blade size on a scrap of wood that is the same thickness as the piece you are cutting. For plaques such as this, I frequently use the waste areas from the corners for testing. Simply draw a small circle and cut a test cut at the given angle and then adjust your saw accordingly. it is better to be safe than ruin a nice piece of wood.

I made a short video of me demonstrating how I adjust my saw and also of me cutting the circle. You can see how easy it is to do on my saw, as the table is still level and I don't have to fight gravity to turn the wood while it is on an angle. However, I owned a DeWalt saw for almost 15 years and the angle is so slight in cutting like this that it isn't really a factor. Enjoy the video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=-w_R1rA59c4

I have used this method with many different scroll sawn pieces, from pictures to baskets (like the one that Leldon cut here) and also on small items such as ornaments. This process really makes it easy to make an all-inclusive project and not have to worry about purchasing or making a frame for it. Once you try it, I am sure you will become a big fan of bevel cutting on the scroll saw!

Please feel free to ask me any questions you may have about this process. I will always try to be here to help you and I am sure that others on this forum will help with answers too.

Sheila,
As promised here is photo. Your tips added a little class to this plain lion.
Thank you,
Regis

 

[scrollgirl]

Lesson 9 - Cutting Bevels on the Scroll Saw

Well, you all should have had time to practice cutting all the inside curves and corners on the frames of the practice patterns that I gave you in the previous lessons. Now we should all be ready to move on to learning how to cut on a bevel.

One of the reasons that I like the scroll saw so much is because it is a very versatile tool. For a relatively minimal start up cost, you can get a tool that has the ability to make a great variety of projects. For many years, my scroll saw and drill press were pretty much the only power tools I owned. Yet, I was still able to create lots of wonderful things using them. With the addition of a few other small hand tools, such as a sander and a small router or laminate trimmer, it opens up a whole array of exciting techniques you can use to make your projects more interesting and fun.

Most scroll saws have the ability to make bevel or angled cuts. This is typically achieved by tilting the table of the saw either to the left or the right so that the blade is cutting on an angle. Some saws, like the Excalibur saw (the one I have) allows you to tilt the head of the saw and keeps the table flat. This makes is much easier for you to cut on an angle, as you don't have to worry about holding the piece at an angle when you are cutting, and you can concentrate on the cut at hand.

While tilting the blade is possible, I wouldn't advise you to do so in order to make miters and things that need precise angles. Since the blades are so thin on the scroll saw, they will flex while cutting, creating cuts that are not perfectly straight. This makes it nearly impossible to make a clean miter joint.

However, bevel cutting on the scroll saw can be very useful to create things like self-framing plaques and ornaments, as well as certain types of baskets and candy dishes. I also use this method to make all of my candle tray patterns, as I like the edge design raised up a bit from the center that the candle sits on.

For our purposes, in this lesson we are going to explore making bevel cuts to create a self-framing plaque. I like designing and cutting self-framing plaques because as the name implies, the frame is cut from the same piece of wood as the design.

Many of you may not have realized that the practice frame pattern I gave you to scroll saw in lesson 7 is part of self-framing butterfly plaque that I designed. Although I gave you the pattern for the outside fretwork of the frame, I left out the central picture in the middle because I didn't want you to jump ahead. I have now posted the full pattern for you and you can download it HERE.

Please go to my Google Document account and download it now. If you already did the frame, just cut the inner portion of the design out and apply it to the frame as I instructed before (using blue painter's tape underneath) If you finished cutting the fretwork border of the frame from the last lesson and have left the pattern in place, you could just stick the inner portion of the pattern over the existing pattern and go from there.

For the sample plaque, I used 1/2" maple and I angled the saw 4 degrees to the outside of the circle. Since I cut my piece in a clockwise direction, I tilted the head of my Excalibur scroll saw to the right that amount. If you were using a scroll saw such as a DeWalt, in which the table tilts, you would tilt the saw table so that the left side of the table is lower than the right side, causing the angle of the blade to be radiating outward from the center of the plaque.

I have made some drawings to help you understand what we are doing here. It shows a typical piece of this type from a cut away side view. The center portion represents the center of the plaque, while the two outside sections represent the frame. The red lines are the kerf lines left from your saw blade, angled to the outside of the piece.

Although these drawings are somewhat exaggerated to better illustrate the point, the second drawing shows the space that is left from the blade, or the kerf. This is why it is important to consider not only the angle of the cut, but also the blade size. If you wish the piece to drop down a bit farther into the frame, simply use a larger blade with a wider kerf.

Once the piece is cut, you can push it into the frame and lock in, leaving the frame protruding to the front. The frame can and should be glued to keep it in place once all the cutting is finished. I also found that it look quite nice if you slightly round over the inside edge of the frame with a router or laminate trimmer and a small round over bit. (Do this before gluing naturally!)

If you wish to have less of a drop of the piece, simply increase the angle by half a degree or so. The increased angle will not allow the center to drop as far through the frame.

I strongly suggest that you test your angle and blade size on a scrap of wood that is the same thickness as the piece you are cutting. For plaques such as this, I frequently use the waste areas from the corners for testing. Simply draw a small circle and cut a test cut at the given angle and then adjust your saw accordingly. it is better to be safe than ruin a nice piece of wood.

I made a short video of me demonstrating how I adjust my saw and also of me cutting the circle. You can see how easy it is to do on my saw, as the table is still level and I don't have to fight gravity to turn the wood while it is on an angle. However, I owned a DeWalt saw for almost 15 years and the angle is so slight in cutting like this that it isn't really a factor. Enjoy the video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=-w_R1rA59c4

I have used this method with many different scroll sawn pieces, from pictures to baskets (like the one that Leldon cut here) and also on small items such as ornaments. This process really makes it easy to make an all-inclusive project and not have to worry about purchasing or making a frame for it. Once you try it, I am sure you will become a big fan of bevel cutting on the scroll saw!

Please feel free to ask me any questions you may have about this process. I will always try to be here to help you and I am sure that others on this forum will help with answers too.

That looks really cool, Regis! Oak is hard to do scroll work in too, I found. You did a great job! I love him!

Sheila

 

[RegisG]

Lesson 9 - Cutting Bevels on the Scroll Saw

Well, you all should have had time to practice cutting all the inside curves and corners on the frames of the practice patterns that I gave you in the previous lessons. Now we should all be ready to move on to learning how to cut on a bevel.

One of the reasons that I like the scroll saw so much is because it is a very versatile tool. For a relatively minimal start up cost, you can get a tool that has the ability to make a great variety of projects. For many years, my scroll saw and drill press were pretty much the only power tools I owned. Yet, I was still able to create lots of wonderful things using them. With the addition of a few other small hand tools, such as a sander and a small router or laminate trimmer, it opens up a whole array of exciting techniques you can use to make your projects more interesting and fun.

Most scroll saws have the ability to make bevel or angled cuts. This is typically achieved by tilting the table of the saw either to the left or the right so that the blade is cutting on an angle. Some saws, like the Excalibur saw (the one I have) allows you to tilt the head of the saw and keeps the table flat. This makes is much easier for you to cut on an angle, as you don't have to worry about holding the piece at an angle when you are cutting, and you can concentrate on the cut at hand.

While tilting the blade is possible, I wouldn't advise you to do so in order to make miters and things that need precise angles. Since the blades are so thin on the scroll saw, they will flex while cutting, creating cuts that are not perfectly straight. This makes it nearly impossible to make a clean miter joint.

However, bevel cutting on the scroll saw can be very useful to create things like self-framing plaques and ornaments, as well as certain types of baskets and candy dishes. I also use this method to make all of my candle tray patterns, as I like the edge design raised up a bit from the center that the candle sits on.

For our purposes, in this lesson we are going to explore making bevel cuts to create a self-framing plaque. I like designing and cutting self-framing plaques because as the name implies, the frame is cut from the same piece of wood as the design.

Many of you may not have realized that the practice frame pattern I gave you to scroll saw in lesson 7 is part of self-framing butterfly plaque that I designed. Although I gave you the pattern for the outside fretwork of the frame, I left out the central picture in the middle because I didn't want you to jump ahead. I have now posted the full pattern for you and you can download it HERE.

Please go to my Google Document account and download it now. If you already did the frame, just cut the inner portion of the design out and apply it to the frame as I instructed before (using blue painter's tape underneath) If you finished cutting the fretwork border of the frame from the last lesson and have left the pattern in place, you could just stick the inner portion of the pattern over the existing pattern and go from there.

For the sample plaque, I used 1/2" maple and I angled the saw 4 degrees to the outside of the circle. Since I cut my piece in a clockwise direction, I tilted the head of my Excalibur scroll saw to the right that amount. If you were using a scroll saw such as a DeWalt, in which the table tilts, you would tilt the saw table so that the left side of the table is lower than the right side, causing the angle of the blade to be radiating outward from the center of the plaque.

I have made some drawings to help you understand what we are doing here. It shows a typical piece of this type from a cut away side view. The center portion represents the center of the plaque, while the two outside sections represent the frame. The red lines are the kerf lines left from your saw blade, angled to the outside of the piece.

Although these drawings are somewhat exaggerated to better illustrate the point, the second drawing shows the space that is left from the blade, or the kerf. This is why it is important to consider not only the angle of the cut, but also the blade size. If you wish the piece to drop down a bit farther into the frame, simply use a larger blade with a wider kerf.

Once the piece is cut, you can push it into the frame and lock in, leaving the frame protruding to the front. The frame can and should be glued to keep it in place once all the cutting is finished. I also found that it look quite nice if you slightly round over the inside edge of the frame with a router or laminate trimmer and a small round over bit. (Do this before gluing naturally!)

If you wish to have less of a drop of the piece, simply increase the angle by half a degree or so. The increased angle will not allow the center to drop as far through the frame.

I strongly suggest that you test your angle and blade size on a scrap of wood that is the same thickness as the piece you are cutting. For plaques such as this, I frequently use the waste areas from the corners for testing. Simply draw a small circle and cut a test cut at the given angle and then adjust your saw accordingly. it is better to be safe than ruin a nice piece of wood.

I made a short video of me demonstrating how I adjust my saw and also of me cutting the circle. You can see how easy it is to do on my saw, as the table is still level and I don't have to fight gravity to turn the wood while it is on an angle. However, I owned a DeWalt saw for almost 15 years and the angle is so slight in cutting like this that it isn't really a factor. Enjoy the video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=-w_R1rA59c4

I have used this method with many different scroll sawn pieces, from pictures to baskets (like the one that Leldon cut here) and also on small items such as ornaments. This process really makes it easy to make an all-inclusive project and not have to worry about purchasing or making a frame for it. Once you try it, I am sure you will become a big fan of bevel cutting on the scroll saw!

Please feel free to ask me any questions you may have about this process. I will always try to be here to help you and I am sure that others on this forum will help with answers too.

Thank you. It was my 1st project that is not for the practice-bin. I really don't know what to do for backing so I'm just going to leave alone.

Thanks again for all the tips and techniques.

Regis

 

[JoeLyddon]

Lesson 9 - Cutting Bevels on the Scroll Saw

Well, you all should have had time to practice cutting all the inside curves and corners on the frames of the practice patterns that I gave you in the previous lessons. Now we should all be ready to move on to learning how to cut on a bevel.

One of the reasons that I like the scroll saw so much is because it is a very versatile tool. For a relatively minimal start up cost, you can get a tool that has the ability to make a great variety of projects. For many years, my scroll saw and drill press were pretty much the only power tools I owned. Yet, I was still able to create lots of wonderful things using them. With the addition of a few other small hand tools, such as a sander and a small router or laminate trimmer, it opens up a whole array of exciting techniques you can use to make your projects more interesting and fun.

Most scroll saws have the ability to make bevel or angled cuts. This is typically achieved by tilting the table of the saw either to the left or the right so that the blade is cutting on an angle. Some saws, like the Excalibur saw (the one I have) allows you to tilt the head of the saw and keeps the table flat. This makes is much easier for you to cut on an angle, as you don't have to worry about holding the piece at an angle when you are cutting, and you can concentrate on the cut at hand.

While tilting the blade is possible, I wouldn't advise you to do so in order to make miters and things that need precise angles. Since the blades are so thin on the scroll saw, they will flex while cutting, creating cuts that are not perfectly straight. This makes it nearly impossible to make a clean miter joint.

However, bevel cutting on the scroll saw can be very useful to create things like self-framing plaques and ornaments, as well as certain types of baskets and candy dishes. I also use this method to make all of my candle tray patterns, as I like the edge design raised up a bit from the center that the candle sits on.

For our purposes, in this lesson we are going to explore making bevel cuts to create a self-framing plaque. I like designing and cutting self-framing plaques because as the name implies, the frame is cut from the same piece of wood as the design.

Many of you may not have realized that the practice frame pattern I gave you to scroll saw in lesson 7 is part of self-framing butterfly plaque that I designed. Although I gave you the pattern for the outside fretwork of the frame, I left out the central picture in the middle because I didn't want you to jump ahead. I have now posted the full pattern for you and you can download it HERE.

Please go to my Google Document account and download it now. If you already did the frame, just cut the inner portion of the design out and apply it to the frame as I instructed before (using blue painter's tape underneath) If you finished cutting the fretwork border of the frame from the last lesson and have left the pattern in place, you could just stick the inner portion of the pattern over the existing pattern and go from there.

For the sample plaque, I used 1/2" maple and I angled the saw 4 degrees to the outside of the circle. Since I cut my piece in a clockwise direction, I tilted the head of my Excalibur scroll saw to the right that amount. If you were using a scroll saw such as a DeWalt, in which the table tilts, you would tilt the saw table so that the left side of the table is lower than the right side, causing the angle of the blade to be radiating outward from the center of the plaque.

I have made some drawings to help you understand what we are doing here. It shows a typical piece of this type from a cut away side view. The center portion represents the center of the plaque, while the two outside sections represent the frame. The red lines are the kerf lines left from your saw blade, angled to the outside of the piece.

Although these drawings are somewhat exaggerated to better illustrate the point, the second drawing shows the space that is left from the blade, or the kerf. This is why it is important to consider not only the angle of the cut, but also the blade size. If you wish the piece to drop down a bit farther into the frame, simply use a larger blade with a wider kerf.

Once the piece is cut, you can push it into the frame and lock in, leaving the frame protruding to the front. The frame can and should be glued to keep it in place once all the cutting is finished. I also found that it look quite nice if you slightly round over the inside edge of the frame with a router or laminate trimmer and a small round over bit. (Do this before gluing naturally!)

If you wish to have less of a drop of the piece, simply increase the angle by half a degree or so. The increased angle will not allow the center to drop as far through the frame.

I strongly suggest that you test your angle and blade size on a scrap of wood that is the same thickness as the piece you are cutting. For plaques such as this, I frequently use the waste areas from the corners for testing. Simply draw a small circle and cut a test cut at the given angle and then adjust your saw accordingly. it is better to be safe than ruin a nice piece of wood.

I made a short video of me demonstrating how I adjust my saw and also of me cutting the circle. You can see how easy it is to do on my saw, as the table is still level and I don't have to fight gravity to turn the wood while it is on an angle. However, I owned a DeWalt saw for almost 15 years and the angle is so slight in cutting like this that it isn't really a factor. Enjoy the video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=-w_R1rA59c4

I have used this method with many different scroll sawn pieces, from pictures to baskets (like the one that Leldon cut here) and also on small items such as ornaments. This process really makes it easy to make an all-inclusive project and not have to worry about purchasing or making a frame for it. Once you try it, I am sure you will become a big fan of bevel cutting on the scroll saw!

Please feel free to ask me any questions you may have about this process. I will always try to be here to help you and I am sure that others on this forum will help with answers too.

Yeah Regis… that is really COOL!

 

[huntter2022]

Lesson 9 - Cutting Bevels on the Scroll Saw

Well, you all should have had time to practice cutting all the inside curves and corners on the frames of the practice patterns that I gave you in the previous lessons. Now we should all be ready to move on to learning how to cut on a bevel.

One of the reasons that I like the scroll saw so much is because it is a very versatile tool. For a relatively minimal start up cost, you can get a tool that has the ability to make a great variety of projects. For many years, my scroll saw and drill press were pretty much the only power tools I owned. Yet, I was still able to create lots of wonderful things using them. With the addition of a few other small hand tools, such as a sander and a small router or laminate trimmer, it opens up a whole array of exciting techniques you can use to make your projects more interesting and fun.

Most scroll saws have the ability to make bevel or angled cuts. This is typically achieved by tilting the table of the saw either to the left or the right so that the blade is cutting on an angle. Some saws, like the Excalibur saw (the one I have) allows you to tilt the head of the saw and keeps the table flat. This makes is much easier for you to cut on an angle, as you don't have to worry about holding the piece at an angle when you are cutting, and you can concentrate on the cut at hand.

While tilting the blade is possible, I wouldn't advise you to do so in order to make miters and things that need precise angles. Since the blades are so thin on the scroll saw, they will flex while cutting, creating cuts that are not perfectly straight. This makes it nearly impossible to make a clean miter joint.

However, bevel cutting on the scroll saw can be very useful to create things like self-framing plaques and ornaments, as well as certain types of baskets and candy dishes. I also use this method to make all of my candle tray patterns, as I like the edge design raised up a bit from the center that the candle sits on.

For our purposes, in this lesson we are going to explore making bevel cuts to create a self-framing plaque. I like designing and cutting self-framing plaques because as the name implies, the frame is cut from the same piece of wood as the design.

Many of you may not have realized that the practice frame pattern I gave you to scroll saw in lesson 7 is part of self-framing butterfly plaque that I designed. Although I gave you the pattern for the outside fretwork of the frame, I left out the central picture in the middle because I didn't want you to jump ahead. I have now posted the full pattern for you and you can download it HERE.

Please go to my Google Document account and download it now. If you already did the frame, just cut the inner portion of the design out and apply it to the frame as I instructed before (using blue painter's tape underneath) If you finished cutting the fretwork border of the frame from the last lesson and have left the pattern in place, you could just stick the inner portion of the pattern over the existing pattern and go from there.

For the sample plaque, I used 1/2" maple and I angled the saw 4 degrees to the outside of the circle. Since I cut my piece in a clockwise direction, I tilted the head of my Excalibur scroll saw to the right that amount. If you were using a scroll saw such as a DeWalt, in which the table tilts, you would tilt the saw table so that the left side of the table is lower than the right side, causing the angle of the blade to be radiating outward from the center of the plaque.

I have made some drawings to help you understand what we are doing here. It shows a typical piece of this type from a cut away side view. The center portion represents the center of the plaque, while the two outside sections represent the frame. The red lines are the kerf lines left from your saw blade, angled to the outside of the piece.

Although these drawings are somewhat exaggerated to better illustrate the point, the second drawing shows the space that is left from the blade, or the kerf. This is why it is important to consider not only the angle of the cut, but also the blade size. If you wish the piece to drop down a bit farther into the frame, simply use a larger blade with a wider kerf.

Once the piece is cut, you can push it into the frame and lock in, leaving the frame protruding to the front. The frame can and should be glued to keep it in place once all the cutting is finished. I also found that it look quite nice if you slightly round over the inside edge of the frame with a router or laminate trimmer and a small round over bit. (Do this before gluing naturally!)

If you wish to have less of a drop of the piece, simply increase the angle by half a degree or so. The increased angle will not allow the center to drop as far through the frame.

I strongly suggest that you test your angle and blade size on a scrap of wood that is the same thickness as the piece you are cutting. For plaques such as this, I frequently use the waste areas from the corners for testing. Simply draw a small circle and cut a test cut at the given angle and then adjust your saw accordingly. it is better to be safe than ruin a nice piece of wood.

I made a short video of me demonstrating how I adjust my saw and also of me cutting the circle. You can see how easy it is to do on my saw, as the table is still level and I don't have to fight gravity to turn the wood while it is on an angle. However, I owned a DeWalt saw for almost 15 years and the angle is so slight in cutting like this that it isn't really a factor. Enjoy the video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=-w_R1rA59c4

I have used this method with many different scroll sawn pieces, from pictures to baskets (like the one that Leldon cut here) and also on small items such as ornaments. This process really makes it easy to make an all-inclusive project and not have to worry about purchasing or making a frame for it. Once you try it, I am sure you will become a big fan of bevel cutting on the scroll saw!

Please feel free to ask me any questions you may have about this process. I will always try to be here to help you and I am sure that others on this forum will help with answers too.

Regis you did a great job on the clock

 

[scrollgirl]

Lesson 10 - Cutting Negative Designs

In scroll sawing, there are several different types of ways to make a nice design. Some people make beautiful portraits by playing with lights and shadows. Here is an example of portrait designs:

The above portrait was designed by my partner Keith. I have not yet done much portrait cutting, but there are many scrollers here such as Scroll3r, KnotCurser and William who do really nice work on them.

Another type of design is what is referred to as a 'positive' design. In that piece, the design consists of what material is left behind after scroll sawing. Here is an example of a positive design that I created:

You can also have what is called a 'negative' type of design. In this type of scroll work, the part of the design that is at focus is the area where the material is removed from. Here is the negative version of the above design:

As you can see, these are essentially the same scenes but they have two very different looks. The positive design is a bit more delicate, as there are several thin pieces that may be prone to breaking. I decided to use a thin veneer backer on that piece so that it would be stronger, and also to give it a solid, contrasting background so that the design would show up nicely.

Both versions are nice, but for today's lesson we are going to focus on cutting a negative type design and look into the most efficient way to create them.

In Lesson 9 I had a link for you to download a pattern that I prepared for you which was a self-framing plaque. The design had a positive scroll saw design on the frame and the inner part of the frame is a negative type of scroll saw design. If you haven't yet downloaded it, you can do so here.

You may want to make a few copies and just practice on the center portion of the design, if you wish. If you already cut the frame, you can just apply the pattern to the center area if you already haven't (we covered separating the frame from the center area in the last lesson on bevel cutting self-framing plaques). Either way, you can choose which will work best for you.

In the illustration below, the red dots indicate suggested entry points. Use the smallest bit you can to accommodate a 2/0 reverse tooth scroll saw blade and drill your holes. I also like using brad point drill bits whenever possible, as I find that it is easier to drill accurately with them.

When choosing where to drill the entry holes, in general, I look for the thickest part of the lines - especially on the long, thin areas.

When you are dealing with very small circles or tear drop shapes, as you have in this design, I find it is best to drill on the far rounded edge, just up to the line. That way you can complete the cutting of the shape from first one side of the hole, stopping at the point, and then back the blade back to the entry hole and complete the cut coming from the other side. This is shown by the drawing below and then later demonstrated in the video:

Once your holes are drilled, be sure to sand the back of your design so that it will lay flat on the table when you cut. This is very important when you have designs with small details such as this, as you don't want it to rock while you are trying to cut.

When cutting long curves and swirls, I recommend that you cut the line to the inside of the curve first. Cut along the inside line until you reach the point (marked by the 'x')

Without turning the piece, back the blade along the line you just scrolled until you reach the entry hole:

Then cut the opposite side of the line until you meet up at the point again, as indicated once again by the 'x'.

Continue to cut all the swirl pieces in the same manner.

One thing that I wanted to note - when doing designs such as these, I drill holes into the buds or pods and cut them separately from when I cut the stem. Even though they do meet up with the stem, if you cut into them from the stem, it makes it a much more difficult cut. I find it is best to drill at the furthest (rounded) part of the bud or pod and then scroll one side of the bud at a time, stopping at the point of the teardrop on the first side, and continuing through to the stem on the second pass.

The following illustrations will show this more clearly:

I also made you a video showing me demonstrating many of these points. I hope you enjoy watching it and it helps you understand the process clearly.

By following these steps and a little bit of practice, you are well on your way to cutting negative scroll saw designs.

Now there was nothing 'negative' about that, was there?

I hope you enjoyed the lesson!

 

[JoeLyddon]

Lesson 10 - Cutting Negative Designs

In scroll sawing, there are several different types of ways to make a nice design. Some people make beautiful portraits by playing with lights and shadows. Here is an example of portrait designs:

The above portrait was designed by my partner Keith. I have not yet done much portrait cutting, but there are many scrollers here such as Scroll3r, KnotCurser and William who do really nice work on them.

Another type of design is what is referred to as a 'positive' design. In that piece, the design consists of what material is left behind after scroll sawing. Here is an example of a positive design that I created:

You can also have what is called a 'negative' type of design. In this type of scroll work, the part of the design that is at focus is the area where the material is removed from. Here is the negative version of the above design:

As you can see, these are essentially the same scenes but they have two very different looks. The positive design is a bit more delicate, as there are several thin pieces that may be prone to breaking. I decided to use a thin veneer backer on that piece so that it would be stronger, and also to give it a solid, contrasting background so that the design would show up nicely.

Both versions are nice, but for today's lesson we are going to focus on cutting a negative type design and look into the most efficient way to create them.

In Lesson 9 I had a link for you to download a pattern that I prepared for you which was a self-framing plaque. The design had a positive scroll saw design on the frame and the inner part of the frame is a negative type of scroll saw design. If you haven't yet downloaded it, you can do so here.

You may want to make a few copies and just practice on the center portion of the design, if you wish. If you already cut the frame, you can just apply the pattern to the center area if you already haven't (we covered separating the frame from the center area in the last lesson on bevel cutting self-framing plaques). Either way, you can choose which will work best for you.

In the illustration below, the red dots indicate suggested entry points. Use the smallest bit you can to accommodate a 2/0 reverse tooth scroll saw blade and drill your holes. I also like using brad point drill bits whenever possible, as I find that it is easier to drill accurately with them.

When choosing where to drill the entry holes, in general, I look for the thickest part of the lines - especially on the long, thin areas.

When you are dealing with very small circles or tear drop shapes, as you have in this design, I find it is best to drill on the far rounded edge, just up to the line. That way you can complete the cutting of the shape from first one side of the hole, stopping at the point, and then back the blade back to the entry hole and complete the cut coming from the other side. This is shown by the drawing below and then later demonstrated in the video:

Once your holes are drilled, be sure to sand the back of your design so that it will lay flat on the table when you cut. This is very important when you have designs with small details such as this, as you don't want it to rock while you are trying to cut.

When cutting long curves and swirls, I recommend that you cut the line to the inside of the curve first. Cut along the inside line until you reach the point (marked by the 'x')

Without turning the piece, back the blade along the line you just scrolled until you reach the entry hole:

Then cut the opposite side of the line until you meet up at the point again, as indicated once again by the 'x'.

Continue to cut all the swirl pieces in the same manner.

One thing that I wanted to note - when doing designs such as these, I drill holes into the buds or pods and cut them separately from when I cut the stem. Even though they do meet up with the stem, if you cut into them from the stem, it makes it a much more difficult cut. I find it is best to drill at the furthest (rounded) part of the bud or pod and then scroll one side of the bud at a time, stopping at the point of the teardrop on the first side, and continuing through to the stem on the second pass.

The following illustrations will show this more clearly:

I also made you a video showing me demonstrating many of these points. I hope you enjoy watching it and it helps you understand the process clearly.

By following these steps and a little bit of practice, you are well on your way to cutting negative scroll saw designs.

Now there was nothing 'negative' about that, was there?

I hope you enjoyed the lesson!

Sheila, you're a WONDERFUL instructor!

You make everything look so simple!

You change the blade holes so easily! I know I'd be breaking blades all over the place! LOL

You're getting my juices flowing to see if I can make my cheapy scroll saw work…
... got it way back when I was just getting back into woodwk'g… on eBay for $45 … never did have any real instruction on it… I'm also probably missing something in setting it up, etc.

Thank you again for your FINE work… You are "Poetry in Motion".

 

[LeeJ]

Lesson 10 - Cutting Negative Designs

In scroll sawing, there are several different types of ways to make a nice design. Some people make beautiful portraits by playing with lights and shadows. Here is an example of portrait designs:

The above portrait was designed by my partner Keith. I have not yet done much portrait cutting, but there are many scrollers here such as Scroll3r, KnotCurser and William who do really nice work on them.

Another type of design is what is referred to as a 'positive' design. In that piece, the design consists of what material is left behind after scroll sawing. Here is an example of a positive design that I created:

You can also have what is called a 'negative' type of design. In this type of scroll work, the part of the design that is at focus is the area where the material is removed from. Here is the negative version of the above design:

As you can see, these are essentially the same scenes but they have two very different looks. The positive design is a bit more delicate, as there are several thin pieces that may be prone to breaking. I decided to use a thin veneer backer on that piece so that it would be stronger, and also to give it a solid, contrasting background so that the design would show up nicely.

Both versions are nice, but for today's lesson we are going to focus on cutting a negative type design and look into the most efficient way to create them.

In Lesson 9 I had a link for you to download a pattern that I prepared for you which was a self-framing plaque. The design had a positive scroll saw design on the frame and the inner part of the frame is a negative type of scroll saw design. If you haven't yet downloaded it, you can do so here.

You may want to make a few copies and just practice on the center portion of the design, if you wish. If you already cut the frame, you can just apply the pattern to the center area if you already haven't (we covered separating the frame from the center area in the last lesson on bevel cutting self-framing plaques). Either way, you can choose which will work best for you.

In the illustration below, the red dots indicate suggested entry points. Use the smallest bit you can to accommodate a 2/0 reverse tooth scroll saw blade and drill your holes. I also like using brad point drill bits whenever possible, as I find that it is easier to drill accurately with them.

When choosing where to drill the entry holes, in general, I look for the thickest part of the lines - especially on the long, thin areas.

When you are dealing with very small circles or tear drop shapes, as you have in this design, I find it is best to drill on the far rounded edge, just up to the line. That way you can complete the cutting of the shape from first one side of the hole, stopping at the point, and then back the blade back to the entry hole and complete the cut coming from the other side. This is shown by the drawing below and then later demonstrated in the video:

Once your holes are drilled, be sure to sand the back of your design so that it will lay flat on the table when you cut. This is very important when you have designs with small details such as this, as you don't want it to rock while you are trying to cut.

When cutting long curves and swirls, I recommend that you cut the line to the inside of the curve first. Cut along the inside line until you reach the point (marked by the 'x')

Without turning the piece, back the blade along the line you just scrolled until you reach the entry hole:

Then cut the opposite side of the line until you meet up at the point again, as indicated once again by the 'x'.

Continue to cut all the swirl pieces in the same manner.

One thing that I wanted to note - when doing designs such as these, I drill holes into the buds or pods and cut them separately from when I cut the stem. Even though they do meet up with the stem, if you cut into them from the stem, it makes it a much more difficult cut. I find it is best to drill at the furthest (rounded) part of the bud or pod and then scroll one side of the bud at a time, stopping at the point of the teardrop on the first side, and continuing through to the stem on the second pass.

The following illustrations will show this more clearly:

I also made you a video showing me demonstrating many of these points. I hope you enjoy watching it and it helps you understand the process clearly.

By following these steps and a little bit of practice, you are well on your way to cutting negative scroll saw designs.

Now there was nothing 'negative' about that, was there?

I hope you enjoyed the lesson!

Very helpful, Shelia!

Lee

 

[Rick13403]

Lesson 10 - Cutting Negative Designs

In scroll sawing, there are several different types of ways to make a nice design. Some people make beautiful portraits by playing with lights and shadows. Here is an example of portrait designs:

The above portrait was designed by my partner Keith. I have not yet done much portrait cutting, but there are many scrollers here such as Scroll3r, KnotCurser and William who do really nice work on them.

Another type of design is what is referred to as a 'positive' design. In that piece, the design consists of what material is left behind after scroll sawing. Here is an example of a positive design that I created:

You can also have what is called a 'negative' type of design. In this type of scroll work, the part of the design that is at focus is the area where the material is removed from. Here is the negative version of the above design:

As you can see, these are essentially the same scenes but they have two very different looks. The positive design is a bit more delicate, as there are several thin pieces that may be prone to breaking. I decided to use a thin veneer backer on that piece so that it would be stronger, and also to give it a solid, contrasting background so that the design would show up nicely.

Both versions are nice, but for today's lesson we are going to focus on cutting a negative type design and look into the most efficient way to create them.

In Lesson 9 I had a link for you to download a pattern that I prepared for you which was a self-framing plaque. The design had a positive scroll saw design on the frame and the inner part of the frame is a negative type of scroll saw design. If you haven't yet downloaded it, you can do so here.

You may want to make a few copies and just practice on the center portion of the design, if you wish. If you already cut the frame, you can just apply the pattern to the center area if you already haven't (we covered separating the frame from the center area in the last lesson on bevel cutting self-framing plaques). Either way, you can choose which will work best for you.

In the illustration below, the red dots indicate suggested entry points. Use the smallest bit you can to accommodate a 2/0 reverse tooth scroll saw blade and drill your holes. I also like using brad point drill bits whenever possible, as I find that it is easier to drill accurately with them.

When choosing where to drill the entry holes, in general, I look for the thickest part of the lines - especially on the long, thin areas.

When you are dealing with very small circles or tear drop shapes, as you have in this design, I find it is best to drill on the far rounded edge, just up to the line. That way you can complete the cutting of the shape from first one side of the hole, stopping at the point, and then back the blade back to the entry hole and complete the cut coming from the other side. This is shown by the drawing below and then later demonstrated in the video:

Once your holes are drilled, be sure to sand the back of your design so that it will lay flat on the table when you cut. This is very important when you have designs with small details such as this, as you don't want it to rock while you are trying to cut.

When cutting long curves and swirls, I recommend that you cut the line to the inside of the curve first. Cut along the inside line until you reach the point (marked by the 'x')

Without turning the piece, back the blade along the line you just scrolled until you reach the entry hole:

Then cut the opposite side of the line until you meet up at the point again, as indicated once again by the 'x'.

Continue to cut all the swirl pieces in the same manner.

One thing that I wanted to note - when doing designs such as these, I drill holes into the buds or pods and cut them separately from when I cut the stem. Even though they do meet up with the stem, if you cut into them from the stem, it makes it a much more difficult cut. I find it is best to drill at the furthest (rounded) part of the bud or pod and then scroll one side of the bud at a time, stopping at the point of the teardrop on the first side, and continuing through to the stem on the second pass.

The following illustrations will show this more clearly:

I also made you a video showing me demonstrating many of these points. I hope you enjoy watching it and it helps you understand the process clearly.

By following these steps and a little bit of practice, you are well on your way to cutting negative scroll saw designs.

Now there was nothing 'negative' about that, was there?

I hope you enjoyed the lesson!

Thanks for posting this lesson, Sheila. You did a great job on it.
Rick

 

[macfil20]

Lesson 10 - Cutting Negative Designs

In scroll sawing, there are several different types of ways to make a nice design. Some people make beautiful portraits by playing with lights and shadows. Here is an example of portrait designs:

The above portrait was designed by my partner Keith. I have not yet done much portrait cutting, but there are many scrollers here such as Scroll3r, KnotCurser and William who do really nice work on them.

Another type of design is what is referred to as a 'positive' design. In that piece, the design consists of what material is left behind after scroll sawing. Here is an example of a positive design that I created:

You can also have what is called a 'negative' type of design. In this type of scroll work, the part of the design that is at focus is the area where the material is removed from. Here is the negative version of the above design:

As you can see, these are essentially the same scenes but they have two very different looks. The positive design is a bit more delicate, as there are several thin pieces that may be prone to breaking. I decided to use a thin veneer backer on that piece so that it would be stronger, and also to give it a solid, contrasting background so that the design would show up nicely.

Both versions are nice, but for today's lesson we are going to focus on cutting a negative type design and look into the most efficient way to create them.

In Lesson 9 I had a link for you to download a pattern that I prepared for you which was a self-framing plaque. The design had a positive scroll saw design on the frame and the inner part of the frame is a negative type of scroll saw design. If you haven't yet downloaded it, you can do so here.

You may want to make a few copies and just practice on the center portion of the design, if you wish. If you already cut the frame, you can just apply the pattern to the center area if you already haven't (we covered separating the frame from the center area in the last lesson on bevel cutting self-framing plaques). Either way, you can choose which will work best for you.

In the illustration below, the red dots indicate suggested entry points. Use the smallest bit you can to accommodate a 2/0 reverse tooth scroll saw blade and drill your holes. I also like using brad point drill bits whenever possible, as I find that it is easier to drill accurately with them.

When choosing where to drill the entry holes, in general, I look for the thickest part of the lines - especially on the long, thin areas.

When you are dealing with very small circles or tear drop shapes, as you have in this design, I find it is best to drill on the far rounded edge, just up to the line. That way you can complete the cutting of the shape from first one side of the hole, stopping at the point, and then back the blade back to the entry hole and complete the cut coming from the other side. This is shown by the drawing below and then later demonstrated in the video:

Once your holes are drilled, be sure to sand the back of your design so that it will lay flat on the table when you cut. This is very important when you have designs with small details such as this, as you don't want it to rock while you are trying to cut.

When cutting long curves and swirls, I recommend that you cut the line to the inside of the curve first. Cut along the inside line until you reach the point (marked by the 'x')

Without turning the piece, back the blade along the line you just scrolled until you reach the entry hole:

Then cut the opposite side of the line until you meet up at the point again, as indicated once again by the 'x'.

Continue to cut all the swirl pieces in the same manner.

One thing that I wanted to note - when doing designs such as these, I drill holes into the buds or pods and cut them separately from when I cut the stem. Even though they do meet up with the stem, if you cut into them from the stem, it makes it a much more difficult cut. I find it is best to drill at the furthest (rounded) part of the bud or pod and then scroll one side of the bud at a time, stopping at the point of the teardrop on the first side, and continuing through to the stem on the second pass.

The following illustrations will show this more clearly:

I also made you a video showing me demonstrating many of these points. I hope you enjoy watching it and it helps you understand the process clearly.

By following these steps and a little bit of practice, you are well on your way to cutting negative scroll saw designs.

Now there was nothing 'negative' about that, was there?

I hope you enjoyed the lesson!

Great video Sheila. I now know what I was doing wrong. I have not cut in 1 year so I need lots of practice.
JP

 

[Bearpie]

Lesson 10 - Cutting Negative Designs

In scroll sawing, there are several different types of ways to make a nice design. Some people make beautiful portraits by playing with lights and shadows. Here is an example of portrait designs:

The above portrait was designed by my partner Keith. I have not yet done much portrait cutting, but there are many scrollers here such as Scroll3r, KnotCurser and William who do really nice work on them.

Another type of design is what is referred to as a 'positive' design. In that piece, the design consists of what material is left behind after scroll sawing. Here is an example of a positive design that I created:

You can also have what is called a 'negative' type of design. In this type of scroll work, the part of the design that is at focus is the area where the material is removed from. Here is the negative version of the above design:

As you can see, these are essentially the same scenes but they have two very different looks. The positive design is a bit more delicate, as there are several thin pieces that may be prone to breaking. I decided to use a thin veneer backer on that piece so that it would be stronger, and also to give it a solid, contrasting background so that the design would show up nicely.

Both versions are nice, but for today's lesson we are going to focus on cutting a negative type design and look into the most efficient way to create them.

In Lesson 9 I had a link for you to download a pattern that I prepared for you which was a self-framing plaque. The design had a positive scroll saw design on the frame and the inner part of the frame is a negative type of scroll saw design. If you haven't yet downloaded it, you can do so here.

You may want to make a few copies and just practice on the center portion of the design, if you wish. If you already cut the frame, you can just apply the pattern to the center area if you already haven't (we covered separating the frame from the center area in the last lesson on bevel cutting self-framing plaques). Either way, you can choose which will work best for you.

In the illustration below, the red dots indicate suggested entry points. Use the smallest bit you can to accommodate a 2/0 reverse tooth scroll saw blade and drill your holes. I also like using brad point drill bits whenever possible, as I find that it is easier to drill accurately with them.

When choosing where to drill the entry holes, in general, I look for the thickest part of the lines - especially on the long, thin areas.

When you are dealing with very small circles or tear drop shapes, as you have in this design, I find it is best to drill on the far rounded edge, just up to the line. That way you can complete the cutting of the shape from first one side of the hole, stopping at the point, and then back the blade back to the entry hole and complete the cut coming from the other side. This is shown by the drawing below and then later demonstrated in the video:

Once your holes are drilled, be sure to sand the back of your design so that it will lay flat on the table when you cut. This is very important when you have designs with small details such as this, as you don't want it to rock while you are trying to cut.

When cutting long curves and swirls, I recommend that you cut the line to the inside of the curve first. Cut along the inside line until you reach the point (marked by the 'x')

Without turning the piece, back the blade along the line you just scrolled until you reach the entry hole:

Then cut the opposite side of the line until you meet up at the point again, as indicated once again by the 'x'.

Continue to cut all the swirl pieces in the same manner.

One thing that I wanted to note - when doing designs such as these, I drill holes into the buds or pods and cut them separately from when I cut the stem. Even though they do meet up with the stem, if you cut into them from the stem, it makes it a much more difficult cut. I find it is best to drill at the furthest (rounded) part of the bud or pod and then scroll one side of the bud at a time, stopping at the point of the teardrop on the first side, and continuing through to the stem on the second pass.

The following illustrations will show this more clearly:

I also made you a video showing me demonstrating many of these points. I hope you enjoy watching it and it helps you understand the process clearly.

By following these steps and a little bit of practice, you are well on your way to cutting negative scroll saw designs.

Now there was nothing 'negative' about that, was there?

I hope you enjoyed the lesson!

I was most impressed with the negative picture of the cat! That is an awesome picture!

 

[knottywoodcrafts]

Lesson 10 - Cutting Negative Designs

In scroll sawing, there are several different types of ways to make a nice design. Some people make beautiful portraits by playing with lights and shadows. Here is an example of portrait designs:

The above portrait was designed by my partner Keith. I have not yet done much portrait cutting, but there are many scrollers here such as Scroll3r, KnotCurser and William who do really nice work on them.

Another type of design is what is referred to as a 'positive' design. In that piece, the design consists of what material is left behind after scroll sawing. Here is an example of a positive design that I created:

You can also have what is called a 'negative' type of design. In this type of scroll work, the part of the design that is at focus is the area where the material is removed from. Here is the negative version of the above design:

As you can see, these are essentially the same scenes but they have two very different looks. The positive design is a bit more delicate, as there are several thin pieces that may be prone to breaking. I decided to use a thin veneer backer on that piece so that it would be stronger, and also to give it a solid, contrasting background so that the design would show up nicely.

Both versions are nice, but for today's lesson we are going to focus on cutting a negative type design and look into the most efficient way to create them.

In Lesson 9 I had a link for you to download a pattern that I prepared for you which was a self-framing plaque. The design had a positive scroll saw design on the frame and the inner part of the frame is a negative type of scroll saw design. If you haven't yet downloaded it, you can do so here.

You may want to make a few copies and just practice on the center portion of the design, if you wish. If you already cut the frame, you can just apply the pattern to the center area if you already haven't (we covered separating the frame from the center area in the last lesson on bevel cutting self-framing plaques). Either way, you can choose which will work best for you.

In the illustration below, the red dots indicate suggested entry points. Use the smallest bit you can to accommodate a 2/0 reverse tooth scroll saw blade and drill your holes. I also like using brad point drill bits whenever possible, as I find that it is easier to drill accurately with them.

When choosing where to drill the entry holes, in general, I look for the thickest part of the lines - especially on the long, thin areas.

When you are dealing with very small circles or tear drop shapes, as you have in this design, I find it is best to drill on the far rounded edge, just up to the line. That way you can complete the cutting of the shape from first one side of the hole, stopping at the point, and then back the blade back to the entry hole and complete the cut coming from the other side. This is shown by the drawing below and then later demonstrated in the video:

Once your holes are drilled, be sure to sand the back of your design so that it will lay flat on the table when you cut. This is very important when you have designs with small details such as this, as you don't want it to rock while you are trying to cut.

When cutting long curves and swirls, I recommend that you cut the line to the inside of the curve first. Cut along the inside line until you reach the point (marked by the 'x')

Without turning the piece, back the blade along the line you just scrolled until you reach the entry hole:

Then cut the opposite side of the line until you meet up at the point again, as indicated once again by the 'x'.

Continue to cut all the swirl pieces in the same manner.

One thing that I wanted to note - when doing designs such as these, I drill holes into the buds or pods and cut them separately from when I cut the stem. Even though they do meet up with the stem, if you cut into them from the stem, it makes it a much more difficult cut. I find it is best to drill at the furthest (rounded) part of the bud or pod and then scroll one side of the bud at a time, stopping at the point of the teardrop on the first side, and continuing through to the stem on the second pass.

The following illustrations will show this more clearly:

I also made you a video showing me demonstrating many of these points. I hope you enjoy watching it and it helps you understand the process clearly.

By following these steps and a little bit of practice, you are well on your way to cutting negative scroll saw designs.

Now there was nothing 'negative' about that, was there?

I hope you enjoyed the lesson!

Sheila, I must say that you are one of my most favorite artisit. Your work is amazing and I look forward to future instructions.

 

[scrollgirl]

Lesson 10 - Cutting Negative Designs

In scroll sawing, there are several different types of ways to make a nice design. Some people make beautiful portraits by playing with lights and shadows. Here is an example of portrait designs:

The above portrait was designed by my partner Keith. I have not yet done much portrait cutting, but there are many scrollers here such as Scroll3r, KnotCurser and William who do really nice work on them.

Another type of design is what is referred to as a 'positive' design. In that piece, the design consists of what material is left behind after scroll sawing. Here is an example of a positive design that I created:

You can also have what is called a 'negative' type of design. In this type of scroll work, the part of the design that is at focus is the area where the material is removed from. Here is the negative version of the above design:

As you can see, these are essentially the same scenes but they have two very different looks. The positive design is a bit more delicate, as there are several thin pieces that may be prone to breaking. I decided to use a thin veneer backer on that piece so that it would be stronger, and also to give it a solid, contrasting background so that the design would show up nicely.

Both versions are nice, but for today's lesson we are going to focus on cutting a negative type design and look into the most efficient way to create them.

In Lesson 9 I had a link for you to download a pattern that I prepared for you which was a self-framing plaque. The design had a positive scroll saw design on the frame and the inner part of the frame is a negative type of scroll saw design. If you haven't yet downloaded it, you can do so here.

You may want to make a few copies and just practice on the center portion of the design, if you wish. If you already cut the frame, you can just apply the pattern to the center area if you already haven't (we covered separating the frame from the center area in the last lesson on bevel cutting self-framing plaques). Either way, you can choose which will work best for you.

In the illustration below, the red dots indicate suggested entry points. Use the smallest bit you can to accommodate a 2/0 reverse tooth scroll saw blade and drill your holes. I also like using brad point drill bits whenever possible, as I find that it is easier to drill accurately with them.

When choosing where to drill the entry holes, in general, I look for the thickest part of the lines - especially on the long, thin areas.

When you are dealing with very small circles or tear drop shapes, as you have in this design, I find it is best to drill on the far rounded edge, just up to the line. That way you can complete the cutting of the shape from first one side of the hole, stopping at the point, and then back the blade back to the entry hole and complete the cut coming from the other side. This is shown by the drawing below and then later demonstrated in the video:

Once your holes are drilled, be sure to sand the back of your design so that it will lay flat on the table when you cut. This is very important when you have designs with small details such as this, as you don't want it to rock while you are trying to cut.

When cutting long curves and swirls, I recommend that you cut the line to the inside of the curve first. Cut along the inside line until you reach the point (marked by the 'x')

Without turning the piece, back the blade along the line you just scrolled until you reach the entry hole:

Then cut the opposite side of the line until you meet up at the point again, as indicated once again by the 'x'.

Continue to cut all the swirl pieces in the same manner.

One thing that I wanted to note - when doing designs such as these, I drill holes into the buds or pods and cut them separately from when I cut the stem. Even though they do meet up with the stem, if you cut into them from the stem, it makes it a much more difficult cut. I find it is best to drill at the furthest (rounded) part of the bud or pod and then scroll one side of the bud at a time, stopping at the point of the teardrop on the first side, and continuing through to the stem on the second pass.

The following illustrations will show this more clearly:

I also made you a video showing me demonstrating many of these points. I hope you enjoy watching it and it helps you understand the process clearly.

By following these steps and a little bit of practice, you are well on your way to cutting negative scroll saw designs.

Now there was nothing 'negative' about that, was there?

I hope you enjoyed the lesson!

I am glad you all liked the class. Sometimes I feel like I am 'stating the obvious' and then I hear that you are learning from what I am saying and I realize that I am helping somewhat. It is a good feeling. Everything is really simple when it is broken down into steps. We need to look at the parts of things rather than the whole when we are learning new techniques. It makes it all so much easier.

Erwin - I also loved that picture. It is an incredible display of light and dark and has a tremendous amount of depth. I tried to search for the credits for it and have come up with nothing. I would like to acknowledge the creator if at all possible. It is a form of art in itself, I think.

Thank you for the nice comments everyone. I am glad you appreciate the lessons.

Sheila

 

[tomd]

Lesson 10 - Cutting Negative Designs

In scroll sawing, there are several different types of ways to make a nice design. Some people make beautiful portraits by playing with lights and shadows. Here is an example of portrait designs:

The above portrait was designed by my partner Keith. I have not yet done much portrait cutting, but there are many scrollers here such as Scroll3r, KnotCurser and William who do really nice work on them.

Another type of design is what is referred to as a 'positive' design. In that piece, the design consists of what material is left behind after scroll sawing. Here is an example of a positive design that I created:

You can also have what is called a 'negative' type of design. In this type of scroll work, the part of the design that is at focus is the area where the material is removed from. Here is the negative version of the above design:

As you can see, these are essentially the same scenes but they have two very different looks. The positive design is a bit more delicate, as there are several thin pieces that may be prone to breaking. I decided to use a thin veneer backer on that piece so that it would be stronger, and also to give it a solid, contrasting background so that the design would show up nicely.

Both versions are nice, but for today's lesson we are going to focus on cutting a negative type design and look into the most efficient way to create them.

In Lesson 9 I had a link for you to download a pattern that I prepared for you which was a self-framing plaque. The design had a positive scroll saw design on the frame and the inner part of the frame is a negative type of scroll saw design. If you haven't yet downloaded it, you can do so here.

You may want to make a few copies and just practice on the center portion of the design, if you wish. If you already cut the frame, you can just apply the pattern to the center area if you already haven't (we covered separating the frame from the center area in the last lesson on bevel cutting self-framing plaques). Either way, you can choose which will work best for you.

In the illustration below, the red dots indicate suggested entry points. Use the smallest bit you can to accommodate a 2/0 reverse tooth scroll saw blade and drill your holes. I also like using brad point drill bits whenever possible, as I find that it is easier to drill accurately with them.

When choosing where to drill the entry holes, in general, I look for the thickest part of the lines - especially on the long, thin areas.

When you are dealing with very small circles or tear drop shapes, as you have in this design, I find it is best to drill on the far rounded edge, just up to the line. That way you can complete the cutting of the shape from first one side of the hole, stopping at the point, and then back the blade back to the entry hole and complete the cut coming from the other side. This is shown by the drawing below and then later demonstrated in the video:

Once your holes are drilled, be sure to sand the back of your design so that it will lay flat on the table when you cut. This is very important when you have designs with small details such as this, as you don't want it to rock while you are trying to cut.

When cutting long curves and swirls, I recommend that you cut the line to the inside of the curve first. Cut along the inside line until you reach the point (marked by the 'x')

Without turning the piece, back the blade along the line you just scrolled until you reach the entry hole:

Then cut the opposite side of the line until you meet up at the point again, as indicated once again by the 'x'.

Continue to cut all the swirl pieces in the same manner.

One thing that I wanted to note - when doing designs such as these, I drill holes into the buds or pods and cut them separately from when I cut the stem. Even though they do meet up with the stem, if you cut into them from the stem, it makes it a much more difficult cut. I find it is best to drill at the furthest (rounded) part of the bud or pod and then scroll one side of the bud at a time, stopping at the point of the teardrop on the first side, and continuing through to the stem on the second pass.

The following illustrations will show this more clearly:

I also made you a video showing me demonstrating many of these points. I hope you enjoy watching it and it helps you understand the process clearly.

By following these steps and a little bit of practice, you are well on your way to cutting negative scroll saw designs.

Now there was nothing 'negative' about that, was there?

I hope you enjoyed the lesson!

Thanks for the lessons, very informative, Great class. I'm making a serious effort to get better at this.

 

[scrollgirl]

Class is Resuming! - "Reindeer Games" Layered Ornaments Part 1

Hello, everyone! It's been a while since I've been here at the class. Those of you who have been following my daily blog know how busy I have been with many different things. As usual, I wish that there were 48 hours in a day (and then some time to sleep on top of that!) But there aren't and I have to make due with the same 24 that everyone else has to work with. And that is OK.

Lately I have had a lot of people write me asking many of the same questions regarding different aspects of scroll sawing. While some of them have been answered here in previous classes, I thought that I would take the time to add some more lessons to the class here on Lumberjocks. This time, instead of having everyone follow along, I am going to do more of a demonstration of making a project from start to finish. I think that by doing things this way, I will better be able to cover all the 'little' things that pop up when we are involved in doing a project. These things in themselves may seem like small things, and for most people don't even warrant asking questions about - but in the process of building the project, each element is equally important, no matter how small, in the overall success. It's somewhat like building a wall. Each brick that is put in place lends to the overall strength and success of the structure.

So let's get started!

The project that I am going to create is a new one I designed called "Reindeer Games Overlay Scroll Sawn Ornaments." In making it, each ornament consists of two pieces - a base with some negative lettering spelling the name of the reindeer, and an overlay piece with a silhouette of the reindeer in flight. Each of the layers are approximately 1/8" think stock, which makes them ideal for making multiple pieces at a time by stack cutting.

Because I made two sets (One in maple and walnut and the other in 1/8" Baltic birch plywood) I will be demonstrating how you can finish the ornaments in two different ways to achieve very different results. Hopefully, by following me through this process step-by-step, you will pick up a few things that you may have not previously known.

I realize that because of the way this is set up some of the information may be things we already discussed in previous classes, but since that class was a year ago, I don't see that as an issue. Besides, seeing these process used in practical application will not only reinforce your knowledge, but it may also help you apply some of these techniques to your own projects and daily routines.

So let's get on with it! Class is once again in session! Of course I welcome and appreciate all comments and discussions about not only these techniques, but also those that have been successful for you. We learn a great deal from each other by sharing information and I by no means feel that I know everything! I always say that there are many paths to the same destination. So lets see how many different paths we can explore to expand our knowledge and skills here.

I hope you enjoy the video. Part 1 includes the introduction and set up of the pieces.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=nkyW-_4CPU4

I have embedded the video here, for those of you who don't like to click on things that leave the site, but if you want to go to YouTube and subscribe to my channel, you can do so here:

Scrollgirlcanada's Channel

Once there, you can see other videos that I have released and subscribe to my channel. When you subscribe, you receive an email notification every time I upload a new video. I plan on doing more videos on both scroll sawing and also finishing and different painting techniques, so if you are interested in those subjects, you may want to subscribe.

Thanks to Martin and Debbie for allowing me to post here in this forum. It is wonderful to be able to share ideas with you all and learn from you all too!

Enjoy!

 

[Alexandre]

Class is Resuming! - "Reindeer Games" Layered Ornaments Part 1

Hello, everyone! It's been a while since I've been here at the class. Those of you who have been following my daily blog know how busy I have been with many different things. As usual, I wish that there were 48 hours in a day (and then some time to sleep on top of that!) But there aren't and I have to make due with the same 24 that everyone else has to work with. And that is OK.

Lately I have had a lot of people write me asking many of the same questions regarding different aspects of scroll sawing. While some of them have been answered here in previous classes, I thought that I would take the time to add some more lessons to the class here on Lumberjocks. This time, instead of having everyone follow along, I am going to do more of a demonstration of making a project from start to finish. I think that by doing things this way, I will better be able to cover all the 'little' things that pop up when we are involved in doing a project. These things in themselves may seem like small things, and for most people don't even warrant asking questions about - but in the process of building the project, each element is equally important, no matter how small, in the overall success. It's somewhat like building a wall. Each brick that is put in place lends to the overall strength and success of the structure.

So let's get started!

The project that I am going to create is a new one I designed called "Reindeer Games Overlay Scroll Sawn Ornaments." In making it, each ornament consists of two pieces - a base with some negative lettering spelling the name of the reindeer, and an overlay piece with a silhouette of the reindeer in flight. Each of the layers are approximately 1/8" think stock, which makes them ideal for making multiple pieces at a time by stack cutting.

Because I made two sets (One in maple and walnut and the other in 1/8" Baltic birch plywood) I will be demonstrating how you can finish the ornaments in two different ways to achieve very different results. Hopefully, by following me through this process step-by-step, you will pick up a few things that you may have not previously known.

I realize that because of the way this is set up some of the information may be things we already discussed in previous classes, but since that class was a year ago, I don't see that as an issue. Besides, seeing these process used in practical application will not only reinforce your knowledge, but it may also help you apply some of these techniques to your own projects and daily routines.

So let's get on with it! Class is once again in session! Of course I welcome and appreciate all comments and discussions about not only these techniques, but also those that have been successful for you. We learn a great deal from each other by sharing information and I by no means feel that I know everything! I always say that there are many paths to the same destination. So lets see how many different paths we can explore to expand our knowledge and skills here.

I hope you enjoy the video. Part 1 includes the introduction and set up of the pieces.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=nkyW-_4CPU4

I have embedded the video here, for those of you who don't like to click on things that leave the site, but if you want to go to YouTube and subscribe to my channel, you can do so here:

Scrollgirlcanada's Channel

Once there, you can see other videos that I have released and subscribe to my channel. When you subscribe, you receive an email notification every time I upload a new video. I plan on doing more videos on both scroll sawing and also finishing and different painting techniques, so if you are interested in those subjects, you may want to subscribe.

Thanks to Martin and Debbie for allowing me to post here in this forum. It is wonderful to be able to share ideas with you all and learn from you all too!

Enjoy!

Shiela, one day, ima make a bandsawn box 100 microns wide…
Than, I can say I BEAT SCROLLGIRL!

 

[scrollgirl]

Class is Resuming! - "Reindeer Games" Layered Ornaments Part 1

Hello, everyone! It's been a while since I've been here at the class. Those of you who have been following my daily blog know how busy I have been with many different things. As usual, I wish that there were 48 hours in a day (and then some time to sleep on top of that!) But there aren't and I have to make due with the same 24 that everyone else has to work with. And that is OK.

Lately I have had a lot of people write me asking many of the same questions regarding different aspects of scroll sawing. While some of them have been answered here in previous classes, I thought that I would take the time to add some more lessons to the class here on Lumberjocks. This time, instead of having everyone follow along, I am going to do more of a demonstration of making a project from start to finish. I think that by doing things this way, I will better be able to cover all the 'little' things that pop up when we are involved in doing a project. These things in themselves may seem like small things, and for most people don't even warrant asking questions about - but in the process of building the project, each element is equally important, no matter how small, in the overall success. It's somewhat like building a wall. Each brick that is put in place lends to the overall strength and success of the structure.

So let's get started!

The project that I am going to create is a new one I designed called "Reindeer Games Overlay Scroll Sawn Ornaments." In making it, each ornament consists of two pieces - a base with some negative lettering spelling the name of the reindeer, and an overlay piece with a silhouette of the reindeer in flight. Each of the layers are approximately 1/8" think stock, which makes them ideal for making multiple pieces at a time by stack cutting.

Because I made two sets (One in maple and walnut and the other in 1/8" Baltic birch plywood) I will be demonstrating how you can finish the ornaments in two different ways to achieve very different results. Hopefully, by following me through this process step-by-step, you will pick up a few things that you may have not previously known.

I realize that because of the way this is set up some of the information may be things we already discussed in previous classes, but since that class was a year ago, I don't see that as an issue. Besides, seeing these process used in practical application will not only reinforce your knowledge, but it may also help you apply some of these techniques to your own projects and daily routines.

So let's get on with it! Class is once again in session! Of course I welcome and appreciate all comments and discussions about not only these techniques, but also those that have been successful for you. We learn a great deal from each other by sharing information and I by no means feel that I know everything! I always say that there are many paths to the same destination. So lets see how many different paths we can explore to expand our knowledge and skills here.

I hope you enjoy the video. Part 1 includes the introduction and set up of the pieces.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=nkyW-_4CPU4

I have embedded the video here, for those of you who don't like to click on things that leave the site, but if you want to go to YouTube and subscribe to my channel, you can do so here:

Scrollgirlcanada's Channel

Once there, you can see other videos that I have released and subscribe to my channel. When you subscribe, you receive an email notification every time I upload a new video. I plan on doing more videos on both scroll sawing and also finishing and different painting techniques, so if you are interested in those subjects, you may want to subscribe.

Thanks to Martin and Debbie for allowing me to post here in this forum. It is wonderful to be able to share ideas with you all and learn from you all too!

Enjoy!

Just make sure you have all of your fingers left Alexandre! Those band saws bite a lot harder than scroll saws!

Sheila

 

[BertFlores58]

Class is Resuming! - "Reindeer Games" Layered Ornaments Part 1

Hello, everyone! It's been a while since I've been here at the class. Those of you who have been following my daily blog know how busy I have been with many different things. As usual, I wish that there were 48 hours in a day (and then some time to sleep on top of that!) But there aren't and I have to make due with the same 24 that everyone else has to work with. And that is OK.

Lately I have had a lot of people write me asking many of the same questions regarding different aspects of scroll sawing. While some of them have been answered here in previous classes, I thought that I would take the time to add some more lessons to the class here on Lumberjocks. This time, instead of having everyone follow along, I am going to do more of a demonstration of making a project from start to finish. I think that by doing things this way, I will better be able to cover all the 'little' things that pop up when we are involved in doing a project. These things in themselves may seem like small things, and for most people don't even warrant asking questions about - but in the process of building the project, each element is equally important, no matter how small, in the overall success. It's somewhat like building a wall. Each brick that is put in place lends to the overall strength and success of the structure.

So let's get started!

The project that I am going to create is a new one I designed called "Reindeer Games Overlay Scroll Sawn Ornaments." In making it, each ornament consists of two pieces - a base with some negative lettering spelling the name of the reindeer, and an overlay piece with a silhouette of the reindeer in flight. Each of the layers are approximately 1/8" think stock, which makes them ideal for making multiple pieces at a time by stack cutting.

Because I made two sets (One in maple and walnut and the other in 1/8" Baltic birch plywood) I will be demonstrating how you can finish the ornaments in two different ways to achieve very different results. Hopefully, by following me through this process step-by-step, you will pick up a few things that you may have not previously known.

I realize that because of the way this is set up some of the information may be things we already discussed in previous classes, but since that class was a year ago, I don't see that as an issue. Besides, seeing these process used in practical application will not only reinforce your knowledge, but it may also help you apply some of these techniques to your own projects and daily routines.

So let's get on with it! Class is once again in session! Of course I welcome and appreciate all comments and discussions about not only these techniques, but also those that have been successful for you. We learn a great deal from each other by sharing information and I by no means feel that I know everything! I always say that there are many paths to the same destination. So lets see how many different paths we can explore to expand our knowledge and skills here.

I hope you enjoy the video. Part 1 includes the introduction and set up of the pieces.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=nkyW-_4CPU4

I have embedded the video here, for those of you who don't like to click on things that leave the site, but if you want to go to YouTube and subscribe to my channel, you can do so here:

Scrollgirlcanada's Channel

Once there, you can see other videos that I have released and subscribe to my channel. When you subscribe, you receive an email notification every time I upload a new video. I plan on doing more videos on both scroll sawing and also finishing and different painting techniques, so if you are interested in those subjects, you may want to subscribe.

Thanks to Martin and Debbie for allowing me to post here in this forum. It is wonderful to be able to share ideas with you all and learn from you all too!

Enjoy!

Welcome back teacher Sheila!

The courses never ends, they advance…. so let us start the advance courses. Cutting been done, now trade secrets are comming… interesting.

Thanks. I will follow.

 

[Kentuk55]

Class is Resuming! - "Reindeer Games" Layered Ornaments Part 1

Hello, everyone! It's been a while since I've been here at the class. Those of you who have been following my daily blog know how busy I have been with many different things. As usual, I wish that there were 48 hours in a day (and then some time to sleep on top of that!) But there aren't and I have to make due with the same 24 that everyone else has to work with. And that is OK.

Lately I have had a lot of people write me asking many of the same questions regarding different aspects of scroll sawing. While some of them have been answered here in previous classes, I thought that I would take the time to add some more lessons to the class here on Lumberjocks. This time, instead of having everyone follow along, I am going to do more of a demonstration of making a project from start to finish. I think that by doing things this way, I will better be able to cover all the 'little' things that pop up when we are involved in doing a project. These things in themselves may seem like small things, and for most people don't even warrant asking questions about - but in the process of building the project, each element is equally important, no matter how small, in the overall success. It's somewhat like building a wall. Each brick that is put in place lends to the overall strength and success of the structure.

So let's get started!

The project that I am going to create is a new one I designed called "Reindeer Games Overlay Scroll Sawn Ornaments." In making it, each ornament consists of two pieces - a base with some negative lettering spelling the name of the reindeer, and an overlay piece with a silhouette of the reindeer in flight. Each of the layers are approximately 1/8" think stock, which makes them ideal for making multiple pieces at a time by stack cutting.

Because I made two sets (One in maple and walnut and the other in 1/8" Baltic birch plywood) I will be demonstrating how you can finish the ornaments in two different ways to achieve very different results. Hopefully, by following me through this process step-by-step, you will pick up a few things that you may have not previously known.

I realize that because of the way this is set up some of the information may be things we already discussed in previous classes, but since that class was a year ago, I don't see that as an issue. Besides, seeing these process used in practical application will not only reinforce your knowledge, but it may also help you apply some of these techniques to your own projects and daily routines.

So let's get on with it! Class is once again in session! Of course I welcome and appreciate all comments and discussions about not only these techniques, but also those that have been successful for you. We learn a great deal from each other by sharing information and I by no means feel that I know everything! I always say that there are many paths to the same destination. So lets see how many different paths we can explore to expand our knowledge and skills here.

I hope you enjoy the video. Part 1 includes the introduction and set up of the pieces.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=nkyW-_4CPU4

I have embedded the video here, for those of you who don't like to click on things that leave the site, but if you want to go to YouTube and subscribe to my channel, you can do so here:

Scrollgirlcanada's Channel

Once there, you can see other videos that I have released and subscribe to my channel. When you subscribe, you receive an email notification every time I upload a new video. I plan on doing more videos on both scroll sawing and also finishing and different painting techniques, so if you are interested in those subjects, you may want to subscribe.

Thanks to Martin and Debbie for allowing me to post here in this forum. It is wonderful to be able to share ideas with you all and learn from you all too!

Enjoy!

Makes gr8 sense to me, and thnk you fer doin it