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New Woodshop Construction

145188 Views 130 Replies 61 Participants Last post by  Grumpy
Setting Up Shop II, or How I Spent My Winter Vacation

(This is the first post here, but a continuation of a series started at my personal blog at tenonandspline.com/blog)

I'm not what you would call a "neat freak." However, I do try to keep things generally organized and find it near impossible to work in a cluttered shop. Not only do I find it technically difficult to work in an unorganized mess - I find it hopelessly depressing as well. Consequently, when the shop is cluttered I will typically avoid doing any woodworking until the mess is resolved.Keeping the shop organized is especially difficult when the thing you're working on is the shop itself. For the past couple months our garage and the new shop space has been a jumble of scraps of lumber and sheet goods, plastic bins of random hand tools, power tools, hardware, etc. somewhat haphazardly-arrange throughout. Need a hammer? Time to go routing through the bins. Double-stick tape? I just know it's here somewhere. Not fun. Coupled with the scarcity of available "shop time" and basically nothing has been done since Thanksgiving.

To turn this untenable situation around I took a week-long vacation from my real job beginning January 7th. As luck would have it, this happened to coincide with a major "January thaw" with temperatures soaring into the 50's and 60's early in the week. After spending a day cleaning out the garage and setting up a temporary table to somewhat organize my tools/supplies, I set out to complete the job. First priority was the cabinetry. I had completed the carcasses and counter tops in November but hadn't even planned the drawers. Drawers. After spending way too much time agonizing over their arrangement (do I make 3 or 4 drawers in this bay? One very deep or 2 shallower?) I settled on a design and slapped together some boxes out of 3/4" ply and pocket screws. Not very "fine" I know, but I'd prefer to just get the shop done and get down to business on pieces bound for the house! Ply banded with 3/16" maple bullnose serve as drawer fronts. After that I installed the ceiling-mounted speakers, running the wire through the 2" PVC I ran before the walls were finished. I also ran RG-6 and Cat 5e cable to the 4 boxes placed around the shop, patching the works together, neatly, in the crawl space before hooking up a home run back to my communications panel in the main basement.

While I frequently use Google SketchUp to design my projects, I find that working things out on a whiteboard can be extremely helpful in the shop. I frequently use a whiteboard for my cut-list-writing large enough to be visible across the room. The one from the old shop is roughly 18" x 36". For the new shop, I wanted something a bit bigger, but "real" dry erase boards can be rather pricey. A quick google search turned up this page http://wiki.xtronics.com/index.php/Shower_Board_as_a_white_Board. For $10 plus some scrap pine I was able to build my own custom board for the shop. I installed a 4'x4' sheet in the middle of the back wall and still have 1/2 sheet left for future uses. Lastly, I installed the TV on a wall-mount (for NYW and Woodworks, natch!) and moved the metal paint cabinet into place beside the slop sink.

As usual the process was covered by a couple web cams and I've edited together a brief time lapse…I only wish I could have completed the actual work in only 5 minutes.


Note: The angle of the cameras, properties of the lighting and advanced image compression may make it appear to the untrained observer that my hair is a bit thinner at the top. I assure you this is merely an optical illusion.
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101 - 120 of 131 Posts
Hacking the Delta 50-875 Air Cleaner

(This post is based on a LumberJocks.com forum thread.)

After completing my dust collection system installation, I turned to my air cleaner, the Delta 50-875. I had decided to install it just above my table saw-about 2/3rd's of the way along the wall, where the intake would be in line with the front door and the outfeed inline with the ceiling mounted vent fan. After reading "Woodshop Dust Control" this seemed like the ideal placement and this location had the added benefit of not obscuring any usable wall space-which is at a premium in my small shop.

IMG_5146

An Awkward Arrangement

One of the selling points of this unit is the built-in infrared remote control that allows you to install it out of reach and control it from below. The problem is that the remote sensor is in the back of the unit. While the unit location is ideal for air flow, it's rather awkward for IR control as I'd need to walk around to the back of the unit, and to a "far" corner of the shop, to turn it on/off. I've always thought that what I really wanted to do was to control it with a switched outlet. The problem with that scenario is that the control panel built into the unit is solid state and doesn't "remember" the settings when you unplug the unit. That is, if you turn it on and then switch off the outlet it's plugged into, when you switch the outlet back on, the air cleaner will remain "off" until you again manually press the "on" key on the unit or the remote control.

So, there was no way to make this happen…or was there? I reasoned that since it's just an electric motor and a control panel, certainly there would be a way to re-wire the unit, bypassing the built-in solid-state controls so that I could hook to a switched outlet.

IMG_5134

Exploration

The air cleaner itself is pretty basic. It's a rectangular metal box with a blower motor/fan in a housing, and a control panel. The motor and control panel are both mounted on the back panel which is simply screwed into the metal box. Once the backpanel assembly, including the blower was removed, I began the process of working out exactly what needed to be done to re-wire the motor. Fortunately, the motor wiring connects to wires from the controller through a nylon connector that, once unplugged provided an easy means of measuring various voltages and resistance. As I knew nothing about wiring AC motors, I began the process with a google search…many of them. Unfortunately, none provided me with anything that I could really use to definitively determine how this motor worked. In fact, I was left with more questions than I'd had originally…who knew there were so many types of AC motors! Initially, as there were 3 colored wires (Red, Blue and Black) and one White (clearly "common"), I assumed there were 3 windings and each color represented one of the 3 speeds that the unit boasts. Based on what I'd read, however, I was now concerned that the large-ish capacitor on the red wire indicated that I might have a "capacitor start" motor which would require something more complicated than simply applying voltage to one of the wires. Perhaps an electrical engineer, at this point, would have provided me a definitive way to check this out…but there weren't any in my shop, so I tried a different tack.

I reasoned that the best way to reverse engineer this setup was to hook up each of the colored wires in turn to my volt meter-using white for common-and turn the unit on, cycle through the various speed settings and note the voltages. This did the trick. Here are the measured results:

wireslowmediumfast
RED121V9V9V
BLUE9V121V9V
BLACK14V14V121V

Clearly this was going to be as straight-forward as I had first hoped! Red = slow, blue = medium and black = fast. That's all there was to it!

Let the hacking begin…



Now I was ready to start. In thinking through exactly how I wanted to wire this up, I realized that I might want to have the ability to change the speed at some point without opening the unit up. I also figured it would be pretty simple to install a switch that would basically allow me to "undo" this hack and use the unit as nature, and the Chinese factory had intended without having to un-hang and re-open the unit. The solution was a couple toggle switches. Since there's an Ace hardware store right up the street from my office, I decided to stop by at lunch and see what they had. I was looking for a SP3T rotary switch that would allow me to cycle through all three speeds-but the only one they had was rated at 4A max. The fuse mounted in the control panel is rated at 5A, so I figured this switch wouldn't do. The next closest was a SPDT switch, center off-and two speeds seemed "close enough." For the "hack bypass" switch, I got a DPDT. While it seemed like it should be sufficient to switch only the "hot" wire, since I was going to essentially be supplying power to the output of the controller when using the hack (see drawing), I was concerned that a closed common connection might allow a circuit to complete and result in "who knows what"(tm) happening. So, I decided the safest thing to do would be to simply switch both common and hot.

The plan

Here's a basic drawing of what was done:

50-875 hack

Moving forward

So the whole point of this modification was to allow me to control the unit by a switched outlet. The switched outlet is managed by an Insteon SwitchLinc which will allow for event-driven activation, such as turning on and off automatically with tools and/or the dust collection unit and wireless RF remote control via an X10 keychain remote. I'll be refining the programming over the coming weeks/months.

IMG_5137

IMG_5139

(originally posted at http://tenonandspline.com/blog/archives/74)
Dadoo: I'm very satisfied with both the modification and the unit. I can't say whether or not this one is any better/worse than the others, but it suits my needs just fine.

Tonight I setup an event in the software (HouseLinc) that controls the outlet the modified cleaner is hooked up to. So now, when I turn on my dust collector, the cleaner automatically starts up. When I turn the dust collector off, the unit continues to run for an additional 2 minutes before turning off. I've chosen the delay arbitrarily-and it's not enough time to completely turn over the air in the shop (need between 5 and 10 minutes for that) so I may change it, but it does mean that I'll be running the air cleaner far more often than I did before.

And yes, the IR sensor is integrated…however I would imagine it wouldn't be too difficult to remove the control panel and solder on a new and/or additional sensor with improved placement. As you can see in the pics, the PCB is accessible without unmounting it from the unit, so provided you could locate the sensor's connection points to the board, I would think it would be pretty straightforward and not require too much mucking about. Obviously this would be quite a bit riskier than my mod.
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Hacking the Delta 50-875 Air Cleaner

(This post is based on a LumberJocks.com forum thread.)

After completing my dust collection system installation, I turned to my air cleaner, the Delta 50-875. I had decided to install it just above my table saw-about 2/3rd's of the way along the wall, where the intake would be in line with the front door and the outfeed inline with the ceiling mounted vent fan. After reading "Woodshop Dust Control" this seemed like the ideal placement and this location had the added benefit of not obscuring any usable wall space-which is at a premium in my small shop.

IMG_5146

An Awkward Arrangement

One of the selling points of this unit is the built-in infrared remote control that allows you to install it out of reach and control it from below. The problem is that the remote sensor is in the back of the unit. While the unit location is ideal for air flow, it's rather awkward for IR control as I'd need to walk around to the back of the unit, and to a "far" corner of the shop, to turn it on/off. I've always thought that what I really wanted to do was to control it with a switched outlet. The problem with that scenario is that the control panel built into the unit is solid state and doesn't "remember" the settings when you unplug the unit. That is, if you turn it on and then switch off the outlet it's plugged into, when you switch the outlet back on, the air cleaner will remain "off" until you again manually press the "on" key on the unit or the remote control.

So, there was no way to make this happen…or was there? I reasoned that since it's just an electric motor and a control panel, certainly there would be a way to re-wire the unit, bypassing the built-in solid-state controls so that I could hook to a switched outlet.

IMG_5134

Exploration

The air cleaner itself is pretty basic. It's a rectangular metal box with a blower motor/fan in a housing, and a control panel. The motor and control panel are both mounted on the back panel which is simply screwed into the metal box. Once the backpanel assembly, including the blower was removed, I began the process of working out exactly what needed to be done to re-wire the motor. Fortunately, the motor wiring connects to wires from the controller through a nylon connector that, once unplugged provided an easy means of measuring various voltages and resistance. As I knew nothing about wiring AC motors, I began the process with a google search…many of them. Unfortunately, none provided me with anything that I could really use to definitively determine how this motor worked. In fact, I was left with more questions than I'd had originally…who knew there were so many types of AC motors! Initially, as there were 3 colored wires (Red, Blue and Black) and one White (clearly "common"), I assumed there were 3 windings and each color represented one of the 3 speeds that the unit boasts. Based on what I'd read, however, I was now concerned that the large-ish capacitor on the red wire indicated that I might have a "capacitor start" motor which would require something more complicated than simply applying voltage to one of the wires. Perhaps an electrical engineer, at this point, would have provided me a definitive way to check this out…but there weren't any in my shop, so I tried a different tack.

I reasoned that the best way to reverse engineer this setup was to hook up each of the colored wires in turn to my volt meter-using white for common-and turn the unit on, cycle through the various speed settings and note the voltages. This did the trick. Here are the measured results:

wireslowmediumfast
RED121V9V9V
BLUE9V121V9V
BLACK14V14V121V

Clearly this was going to be as straight-forward as I had first hoped! Red = slow, blue = medium and black = fast. That's all there was to it!

Let the hacking begin…



Now I was ready to start. In thinking through exactly how I wanted to wire this up, I realized that I might want to have the ability to change the speed at some point without opening the unit up. I also figured it would be pretty simple to install a switch that would basically allow me to "undo" this hack and use the unit as nature, and the Chinese factory had intended without having to un-hang and re-open the unit. The solution was a couple toggle switches. Since there's an Ace hardware store right up the street from my office, I decided to stop by at lunch and see what they had. I was looking for a SP3T rotary switch that would allow me to cycle through all three speeds-but the only one they had was rated at 4A max. The fuse mounted in the control panel is rated at 5A, so I figured this switch wouldn't do. The next closest was a SPDT switch, center off-and two speeds seemed "close enough." For the "hack bypass" switch, I got a DPDT. While it seemed like it should be sufficient to switch only the "hot" wire, since I was going to essentially be supplying power to the output of the controller when using the hack (see drawing), I was concerned that a closed common connection might allow a circuit to complete and result in "who knows what"(tm) happening. So, I decided the safest thing to do would be to simply switch both common and hot.

The plan

Here's a basic drawing of what was done:

50-875 hack

Moving forward

So the whole point of this modification was to allow me to control the unit by a switched outlet. The switched outlet is managed by an Insteon SwitchLinc which will allow for event-driven activation, such as turning on and off automatically with tools and/or the dust collection unit and wireless RF remote control via an X10 keychain remote. I'll be refining the programming over the coming weeks/months.

IMG_5137

IMG_5139

(originally posted at http://tenonandspline.com/blog/archives/74)
You've really touched my "geek" side with this House-Link device. My wife won't be too happy with that fact, but since you live in Illinois, you should be safe! LOL!

I really like your finished pine walls too. Gives the shop a warm feeling. I'm thinking of finishing mine as well and have been contemplating doing the same. I think that project though is way down the road. Just too much else to do right now.

When you're finished you'll have to contact Doug Bordner for a LumberJock shop tour.
Hacking the Delta 50-875 Air Cleaner

(This post is based on a LumberJocks.com forum thread.)

After completing my dust collection system installation, I turned to my air cleaner, the Delta 50-875. I had decided to install it just above my table saw-about 2/3rd's of the way along the wall, where the intake would be in line with the front door and the outfeed inline with the ceiling mounted vent fan. After reading "Woodshop Dust Control" this seemed like the ideal placement and this location had the added benefit of not obscuring any usable wall space-which is at a premium in my small shop.

IMG_5146

An Awkward Arrangement

One of the selling points of this unit is the built-in infrared remote control that allows you to install it out of reach and control it from below. The problem is that the remote sensor is in the back of the unit. While the unit location is ideal for air flow, it's rather awkward for IR control as I'd need to walk around to the back of the unit, and to a "far" corner of the shop, to turn it on/off. I've always thought that what I really wanted to do was to control it with a switched outlet. The problem with that scenario is that the control panel built into the unit is solid state and doesn't "remember" the settings when you unplug the unit. That is, if you turn it on and then switch off the outlet it's plugged into, when you switch the outlet back on, the air cleaner will remain "off" until you again manually press the "on" key on the unit or the remote control.

So, there was no way to make this happen…or was there? I reasoned that since it's just an electric motor and a control panel, certainly there would be a way to re-wire the unit, bypassing the built-in solid-state controls so that I could hook to a switched outlet.

IMG_5134

Exploration

The air cleaner itself is pretty basic. It's a rectangular metal box with a blower motor/fan in a housing, and a control panel. The motor and control panel are both mounted on the back panel which is simply screwed into the metal box. Once the backpanel assembly, including the blower was removed, I began the process of working out exactly what needed to be done to re-wire the motor. Fortunately, the motor wiring connects to wires from the controller through a nylon connector that, once unplugged provided an easy means of measuring various voltages and resistance. As I knew nothing about wiring AC motors, I began the process with a google search…many of them. Unfortunately, none provided me with anything that I could really use to definitively determine how this motor worked. In fact, I was left with more questions than I'd had originally…who knew there were so many types of AC motors! Initially, as there were 3 colored wires (Red, Blue and Black) and one White (clearly "common"), I assumed there were 3 windings and each color represented one of the 3 speeds that the unit boasts. Based on what I'd read, however, I was now concerned that the large-ish capacitor on the red wire indicated that I might have a "capacitor start" motor which would require something more complicated than simply applying voltage to one of the wires. Perhaps an electrical engineer, at this point, would have provided me a definitive way to check this out…but there weren't any in my shop, so I tried a different tack.

I reasoned that the best way to reverse engineer this setup was to hook up each of the colored wires in turn to my volt meter-using white for common-and turn the unit on, cycle through the various speed settings and note the voltages. This did the trick. Here are the measured results:

wireslowmediumfast
RED121V9V9V
BLUE9V121V9V
BLACK14V14V121V

Clearly this was going to be as straight-forward as I had first hoped! Red = slow, blue = medium and black = fast. That's all there was to it!

Let the hacking begin…



Now I was ready to start. In thinking through exactly how I wanted to wire this up, I realized that I might want to have the ability to change the speed at some point without opening the unit up. I also figured it would be pretty simple to install a switch that would basically allow me to "undo" this hack and use the unit as nature, and the Chinese factory had intended without having to un-hang and re-open the unit. The solution was a couple toggle switches. Since there's an Ace hardware store right up the street from my office, I decided to stop by at lunch and see what they had. I was looking for a SP3T rotary switch that would allow me to cycle through all three speeds-but the only one they had was rated at 4A max. The fuse mounted in the control panel is rated at 5A, so I figured this switch wouldn't do. The next closest was a SPDT switch, center off-and two speeds seemed "close enough." For the "hack bypass" switch, I got a DPDT. While it seemed like it should be sufficient to switch only the "hot" wire, since I was going to essentially be supplying power to the output of the controller when using the hack (see drawing), I was concerned that a closed common connection might allow a circuit to complete and result in "who knows what"(tm) happening. So, I decided the safest thing to do would be to simply switch both common and hot.

The plan

Here's a basic drawing of what was done:

50-875 hack

Moving forward

So the whole point of this modification was to allow me to control the unit by a switched outlet. The switched outlet is managed by an Insteon SwitchLinc which will allow for event-driven activation, such as turning on and off automatically with tools and/or the dust collection unit and wireless RF remote control via an X10 keychain remote. I'll be refining the programming over the coming weeks/months.

IMG_5137

IMG_5139

(originally posted at http://tenonandspline.com/blog/archives/74)
Ha! How ironic that I found this (very old) thread.
My Delta air filter let the smoke out of it's control board (which is now a discontinued part), so I removed the control board and replaced it with 3 relays and a Raspberry Pi. Now I turn my air filter on/off by accessing a web site (via my phone) hosted on the Raspberry Pi control board. 3 relays + raspberry pi = ~$40. :)
Hacking the Delta 50-875 Air Cleaner

(This post is based on a LumberJocks.com forum thread.)

After completing my dust collection system installation, I turned to my air cleaner, the Delta 50-875. I had decided to install it just above my table saw-about 2/3rd's of the way along the wall, where the intake would be in line with the front door and the outfeed inline with the ceiling mounted vent fan. After reading "Woodshop Dust Control" this seemed like the ideal placement and this location had the added benefit of not obscuring any usable wall space-which is at a premium in my small shop.

IMG_5146

An Awkward Arrangement

One of the selling points of this unit is the built-in infrared remote control that allows you to install it out of reach and control it from below. The problem is that the remote sensor is in the back of the unit. While the unit location is ideal for air flow, it's rather awkward for IR control as I'd need to walk around to the back of the unit, and to a "far" corner of the shop, to turn it on/off. I've always thought that what I really wanted to do was to control it with a switched outlet. The problem with that scenario is that the control panel built into the unit is solid state and doesn't "remember" the settings when you unplug the unit. That is, if you turn it on and then switch off the outlet it's plugged into, when you switch the outlet back on, the air cleaner will remain "off" until you again manually press the "on" key on the unit or the remote control.

So, there was no way to make this happen…or was there? I reasoned that since it's just an electric motor and a control panel, certainly there would be a way to re-wire the unit, bypassing the built-in solid-state controls so that I could hook to a switched outlet.

IMG_5134

Exploration

The air cleaner itself is pretty basic. It's a rectangular metal box with a blower motor/fan in a housing, and a control panel. The motor and control panel are both mounted on the back panel which is simply screwed into the metal box. Once the backpanel assembly, including the blower was removed, I began the process of working out exactly what needed to be done to re-wire the motor. Fortunately, the motor wiring connects to wires from the controller through a nylon connector that, once unplugged provided an easy means of measuring various voltages and resistance. As I knew nothing about wiring AC motors, I began the process with a google search…many of them. Unfortunately, none provided me with anything that I could really use to definitively determine how this motor worked. In fact, I was left with more questions than I'd had originally…who knew there were so many types of AC motors! Initially, as there were 3 colored wires (Red, Blue and Black) and one White (clearly "common"), I assumed there were 3 windings and each color represented one of the 3 speeds that the unit boasts. Based on what I'd read, however, I was now concerned that the large-ish capacitor on the red wire indicated that I might have a "capacitor start" motor which would require something more complicated than simply applying voltage to one of the wires. Perhaps an electrical engineer, at this point, would have provided me a definitive way to check this out…but there weren't any in my shop, so I tried a different tack.

I reasoned that the best way to reverse engineer this setup was to hook up each of the colored wires in turn to my volt meter-using white for common-and turn the unit on, cycle through the various speed settings and note the voltages. This did the trick. Here are the measured results:

wireslowmediumfast
RED121V9V9V
BLUE9V121V9V
BLACK14V14V121V

Clearly this was going to be as straight-forward as I had first hoped! Red = slow, blue = medium and black = fast. That's all there was to it!

Let the hacking begin…



Now I was ready to start. In thinking through exactly how I wanted to wire this up, I realized that I might want to have the ability to change the speed at some point without opening the unit up. I also figured it would be pretty simple to install a switch that would basically allow me to "undo" this hack and use the unit as nature, and the Chinese factory had intended without having to un-hang and re-open the unit. The solution was a couple toggle switches. Since there's an Ace hardware store right up the street from my office, I decided to stop by at lunch and see what they had. I was looking for a SP3T rotary switch that would allow me to cycle through all three speeds-but the only one they had was rated at 4A max. The fuse mounted in the control panel is rated at 5A, so I figured this switch wouldn't do. The next closest was a SPDT switch, center off-and two speeds seemed "close enough." For the "hack bypass" switch, I got a DPDT. While it seemed like it should be sufficient to switch only the "hot" wire, since I was going to essentially be supplying power to the output of the controller when using the hack (see drawing), I was concerned that a closed common connection might allow a circuit to complete and result in "who knows what"(tm) happening. So, I decided the safest thing to do would be to simply switch both common and hot.

The plan

Here's a basic drawing of what was done:

50-875 hack

Moving forward

So the whole point of this modification was to allow me to control the unit by a switched outlet. The switched outlet is managed by an Insteon SwitchLinc which will allow for event-driven activation, such as turning on and off automatically with tools and/or the dust collection unit and wireless RF remote control via an X10 keychain remote. I'll be refining the programming over the coming weeks/months.

IMG_5137

IMG_5139

(originally posted at http://tenonandspline.com/blog/archives/74)
Would anyone be interested in selling their remote if they no longer need it?
Hacking the Delta 50-875 Air Cleaner

(This post is based on a LumberJocks.com forum thread.)

After completing my dust collection system installation, I turned to my air cleaner, the Delta 50-875. I had decided to install it just above my table saw-about 2/3rd's of the way along the wall, where the intake would be in line with the front door and the outfeed inline with the ceiling mounted vent fan. After reading "Woodshop Dust Control" this seemed like the ideal placement and this location had the added benefit of not obscuring any usable wall space-which is at a premium in my small shop.

IMG_5146

An Awkward Arrangement

One of the selling points of this unit is the built-in infrared remote control that allows you to install it out of reach and control it from below. The problem is that the remote sensor is in the back of the unit. While the unit location is ideal for air flow, it's rather awkward for IR control as I'd need to walk around to the back of the unit, and to a "far" corner of the shop, to turn it on/off. I've always thought that what I really wanted to do was to control it with a switched outlet. The problem with that scenario is that the control panel built into the unit is solid state and doesn't "remember" the settings when you unplug the unit. That is, if you turn it on and then switch off the outlet it's plugged into, when you switch the outlet back on, the air cleaner will remain "off" until you again manually press the "on" key on the unit or the remote control.

So, there was no way to make this happen…or was there? I reasoned that since it's just an electric motor and a control panel, certainly there would be a way to re-wire the unit, bypassing the built-in solid-state controls so that I could hook to a switched outlet.

IMG_5134

Exploration

The air cleaner itself is pretty basic. It's a rectangular metal box with a blower motor/fan in a housing, and a control panel. The motor and control panel are both mounted on the back panel which is simply screwed into the metal box. Once the backpanel assembly, including the blower was removed, I began the process of working out exactly what needed to be done to re-wire the motor. Fortunately, the motor wiring connects to wires from the controller through a nylon connector that, once unplugged provided an easy means of measuring various voltages and resistance. As I knew nothing about wiring AC motors, I began the process with a google search…many of them. Unfortunately, none provided me with anything that I could really use to definitively determine how this motor worked. In fact, I was left with more questions than I'd had originally…who knew there were so many types of AC motors! Initially, as there were 3 colored wires (Red, Blue and Black) and one White (clearly "common"), I assumed there were 3 windings and each color represented one of the 3 speeds that the unit boasts. Based on what I'd read, however, I was now concerned that the large-ish capacitor on the red wire indicated that I might have a "capacitor start" motor which would require something more complicated than simply applying voltage to one of the wires. Perhaps an electrical engineer, at this point, would have provided me a definitive way to check this out…but there weren't any in my shop, so I tried a different tack.

I reasoned that the best way to reverse engineer this setup was to hook up each of the colored wires in turn to my volt meter-using white for common-and turn the unit on, cycle through the various speed settings and note the voltages. This did the trick. Here are the measured results:

wireslowmediumfast
RED121V9V9V
BLUE9V121V9V
BLACK14V14V121V

Clearly this was going to be as straight-forward as I had first hoped! Red = slow, blue = medium and black = fast. That's all there was to it!

Let the hacking begin…



Now I was ready to start. In thinking through exactly how I wanted to wire this up, I realized that I might want to have the ability to change the speed at some point without opening the unit up. I also figured it would be pretty simple to install a switch that would basically allow me to "undo" this hack and use the unit as nature, and the Chinese factory had intended without having to un-hang and re-open the unit. The solution was a couple toggle switches. Since there's an Ace hardware store right up the street from my office, I decided to stop by at lunch and see what they had. I was looking for a SP3T rotary switch that would allow me to cycle through all three speeds-but the only one they had was rated at 4A max. The fuse mounted in the control panel is rated at 5A, so I figured this switch wouldn't do. The next closest was a SPDT switch, center off-and two speeds seemed "close enough." For the "hack bypass" switch, I got a DPDT. While it seemed like it should be sufficient to switch only the "hot" wire, since I was going to essentially be supplying power to the output of the controller when using the hack (see drawing), I was concerned that a closed common connection might allow a circuit to complete and result in "who knows what"(tm) happening. So, I decided the safest thing to do would be to simply switch both common and hot.

The plan

Here's a basic drawing of what was done:

50-875 hack

Moving forward

So the whole point of this modification was to allow me to control the unit by a switched outlet. The switched outlet is managed by an Insteon SwitchLinc which will allow for event-driven activation, such as turning on and off automatically with tools and/or the dust collection unit and wireless RF remote control via an X10 keychain remote. I'll be refining the programming over the coming weeks/months.

IMG_5137

IMG_5139

(originally posted at http://tenonandspline.com/blog/archives/74)
I know that this is an extremely old thread, but I wanted to post a comment to say thanks to the OP!

I recently inherited an old Delta air filter, but the remote control for it was completely busted. Just finished making this modification today, and now I can turn it on and off with an Alexa Smart Plug and control the speed with a pull-switch (like on a ceiling fan).

You sir, are a gentleman and a scholar.
Hacking the Delta 50-875 Air Cleaner

(This post is based on a LumberJocks.com forum thread.)

After completing my dust collection system installation, I turned to my air cleaner, the Delta 50-875. I had decided to install it just above my table saw-about 2/3rd's of the way along the wall, where the intake would be in line with the front door and the outfeed inline with the ceiling mounted vent fan. After reading "Woodshop Dust Control" this seemed like the ideal placement and this location had the added benefit of not obscuring any usable wall space-which is at a premium in my small shop.

IMG_5146

An Awkward Arrangement

One of the selling points of this unit is the built-in infrared remote control that allows you to install it out of reach and control it from below. The problem is that the remote sensor is in the back of the unit. While the unit location is ideal for air flow, it's rather awkward for IR control as I'd need to walk around to the back of the unit, and to a "far" corner of the shop, to turn it on/off. I've always thought that what I really wanted to do was to control it with a switched outlet. The problem with that scenario is that the control panel built into the unit is solid state and doesn't "remember" the settings when you unplug the unit. That is, if you turn it on and then switch off the outlet it's plugged into, when you switch the outlet back on, the air cleaner will remain "off" until you again manually press the "on" key on the unit or the remote control.

So, there was no way to make this happen…or was there? I reasoned that since it's just an electric motor and a control panel, certainly there would be a way to re-wire the unit, bypassing the built-in solid-state controls so that I could hook to a switched outlet.

IMG_5134

Exploration

The air cleaner itself is pretty basic. It's a rectangular metal box with a blower motor/fan in a housing, and a control panel. The motor and control panel are both mounted on the back panel which is simply screwed into the metal box. Once the backpanel assembly, including the blower was removed, I began the process of working out exactly what needed to be done to re-wire the motor. Fortunately, the motor wiring connects to wires from the controller through a nylon connector that, once unplugged provided an easy means of measuring various voltages and resistance. As I knew nothing about wiring AC motors, I began the process with a google search…many of them. Unfortunately, none provided me with anything that I could really use to definitively determine how this motor worked. In fact, I was left with more questions than I'd had originally…who knew there were so many types of AC motors! Initially, as there were 3 colored wires (Red, Blue and Black) and one White (clearly "common"), I assumed there were 3 windings and each color represented one of the 3 speeds that the unit boasts. Based on what I'd read, however, I was now concerned that the large-ish capacitor on the red wire indicated that I might have a "capacitor start" motor which would require something more complicated than simply applying voltage to one of the wires. Perhaps an electrical engineer, at this point, would have provided me a definitive way to check this out…but there weren't any in my shop, so I tried a different tack.

I reasoned that the best way to reverse engineer this setup was to hook up each of the colored wires in turn to my volt meter-using white for common-and turn the unit on, cycle through the various speed settings and note the voltages. This did the trick. Here are the measured results:

wireslowmediumfast
RED121V9V9V
BLUE9V121V9V
BLACK14V14V121V

Clearly this was going to be as straight-forward as I had first hoped! Red = slow, blue = medium and black = fast. That's all there was to it!

Let the hacking begin…



Now I was ready to start. In thinking through exactly how I wanted to wire this up, I realized that I might want to have the ability to change the speed at some point without opening the unit up. I also figured it would be pretty simple to install a switch that would basically allow me to "undo" this hack and use the unit as nature, and the Chinese factory had intended without having to un-hang and re-open the unit. The solution was a couple toggle switches. Since there's an Ace hardware store right up the street from my office, I decided to stop by at lunch and see what they had. I was looking for a SP3T rotary switch that would allow me to cycle through all three speeds-but the only one they had was rated at 4A max. The fuse mounted in the control panel is rated at 5A, so I figured this switch wouldn't do. The next closest was a SPDT switch, center off-and two speeds seemed "close enough." For the "hack bypass" switch, I got a DPDT. While it seemed like it should be sufficient to switch only the "hot" wire, since I was going to essentially be supplying power to the output of the controller when using the hack (see drawing), I was concerned that a closed common connection might allow a circuit to complete and result in "who knows what"(tm) happening. So, I decided the safest thing to do would be to simply switch both common and hot.

The plan

Here's a basic drawing of what was done:

50-875 hack

Moving forward

So the whole point of this modification was to allow me to control the unit by a switched outlet. The switched outlet is managed by an Insteon SwitchLinc which will allow for event-driven activation, such as turning on and off automatically with tools and/or the dust collection unit and wireless RF remote control via an X10 keychain remote. I'll be refining the programming over the coming weeks/months.

IMG_5137

IMG_5139

(originally posted at http://tenonandspline.com/blog/archives/74)
Thanks! Glad it was helpful. Enjoy.

I know that this is an extremely old thread, but I wanted to post a comment to say thanks to the OP!

I recently inherited an old Delta air filter, but the remote control for it was completely busted. Just finished making this modification today, and now I can turn it on and off with an Alexa Smart Plug and control the speed with a pull-switch (like on a ceiling fan).

You sir, are a gentleman and a scholar.

- NotACleverMan
Hacking the Delta 50-875 Air Cleaner

(This post is based on a LumberJocks.com forum thread.)

After completing my dust collection system installation, I turned to my air cleaner, the Delta 50-875. I had decided to install it just above my table saw-about 2/3rd's of the way along the wall, where the intake would be in line with the front door and the outfeed inline with the ceiling mounted vent fan. After reading "Woodshop Dust Control" this seemed like the ideal placement and this location had the added benefit of not obscuring any usable wall space-which is at a premium in my small shop.

IMG_5146

An Awkward Arrangement

One of the selling points of this unit is the built-in infrared remote control that allows you to install it out of reach and control it from below. The problem is that the remote sensor is in the back of the unit. While the unit location is ideal for air flow, it's rather awkward for IR control as I'd need to walk around to the back of the unit, and to a "far" corner of the shop, to turn it on/off. I've always thought that what I really wanted to do was to control it with a switched outlet. The problem with that scenario is that the control panel built into the unit is solid state and doesn't "remember" the settings when you unplug the unit. That is, if you turn it on and then switch off the outlet it's plugged into, when you switch the outlet back on, the air cleaner will remain "off" until you again manually press the "on" key on the unit or the remote control.

So, there was no way to make this happen…or was there? I reasoned that since it's just an electric motor and a control panel, certainly there would be a way to re-wire the unit, bypassing the built-in solid-state controls so that I could hook to a switched outlet.

IMG_5134

Exploration

The air cleaner itself is pretty basic. It's a rectangular metal box with a blower motor/fan in a housing, and a control panel. The motor and control panel are both mounted on the back panel which is simply screwed into the metal box. Once the backpanel assembly, including the blower was removed, I began the process of working out exactly what needed to be done to re-wire the motor. Fortunately, the motor wiring connects to wires from the controller through a nylon connector that, once unplugged provided an easy means of measuring various voltages and resistance. As I knew nothing about wiring AC motors, I began the process with a google search…many of them. Unfortunately, none provided me with anything that I could really use to definitively determine how this motor worked. In fact, I was left with more questions than I'd had originally…who knew there were so many types of AC motors! Initially, as there were 3 colored wires (Red, Blue and Black) and one White (clearly "common"), I assumed there were 3 windings and each color represented one of the 3 speeds that the unit boasts. Based on what I'd read, however, I was now concerned that the large-ish capacitor on the red wire indicated that I might have a "capacitor start" motor which would require something more complicated than simply applying voltage to one of the wires. Perhaps an electrical engineer, at this point, would have provided me a definitive way to check this out…but there weren't any in my shop, so I tried a different tack.

I reasoned that the best way to reverse engineer this setup was to hook up each of the colored wires in turn to my volt meter-using white for common-and turn the unit on, cycle through the various speed settings and note the voltages. This did the trick. Here are the measured results:

wireslowmediumfast
RED121V9V9V
BLUE9V121V9V
BLACK14V14V121V

Clearly this was going to be as straight-forward as I had first hoped! Red = slow, blue = medium and black = fast. That's all there was to it!

Let the hacking begin…



Now I was ready to start. In thinking through exactly how I wanted to wire this up, I realized that I might want to have the ability to change the speed at some point without opening the unit up. I also figured it would be pretty simple to install a switch that would basically allow me to "undo" this hack and use the unit as nature, and the Chinese factory had intended without having to un-hang and re-open the unit. The solution was a couple toggle switches. Since there's an Ace hardware store right up the street from my office, I decided to stop by at lunch and see what they had. I was looking for a SP3T rotary switch that would allow me to cycle through all three speeds-but the only one they had was rated at 4A max. The fuse mounted in the control panel is rated at 5A, so I figured this switch wouldn't do. The next closest was a SPDT switch, center off-and two speeds seemed "close enough." For the "hack bypass" switch, I got a DPDT. While it seemed like it should be sufficient to switch only the "hot" wire, since I was going to essentially be supplying power to the output of the controller when using the hack (see drawing), I was concerned that a closed common connection might allow a circuit to complete and result in "who knows what"(tm) happening. So, I decided the safest thing to do would be to simply switch both common and hot.

The plan

Here's a basic drawing of what was done:

50-875 hack

Moving forward

So the whole point of this modification was to allow me to control the unit by a switched outlet. The switched outlet is managed by an Insteon SwitchLinc which will allow for event-driven activation, such as turning on and off automatically with tools and/or the dust collection unit and wireless RF remote control via an X10 keychain remote. I'll be refining the programming over the coming weeks/months.

IMG_5137

IMG_5139

(originally posted at http://tenonandspline.com/blog/archives/74)
Great Post.
Just a few points for folks who might be hesitant to perform open heart surgery on their Delta Air Cleaner.

First the IR receiver (which is behind the clear window above the control panel) is on the far side of shop, but the signal from the IR Remote is happy to bounce off the white walls in my shop to turn it on/off. YMMV depending on distance, aim and wall color; three corner bank shots are allowed :)

Also, if your Remote died, and you can not find a replacement (because they are discontinued), I have a solution. You can clone a working Delta remote onto a Learning TV Remote (IR).
If you can't locate a working remote, the Delta Air Filter 50-875 IR codes are available on the JP-1 Forum. JP-1 Programable Remote Controls contain a six pin connector in the battery compartment that can connect to a personal computer. JP-1 Remotes were used by Comcast/Time Warner for many years, the trick is building/buying the computer cable to connect them and the time to learn the process. There are tutorials on the Forum to help you. If you have been accused of been a computer geek, it might be a solution for you.
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5
An Hour Here, a Half-Hour There and a Few Saturday Mornings

Over the past month I found very little contiguous time to make progress on the shop setup. Consequently I never felt like I had made significant enough progress in any given week to warrant a new post. While I'm still quite some distance from the finish line, I finally feel like I can actually say, once again, "I have a shop!"

IMG_5248

Dust Collection Controls

I installed a half-dozen doorbell buttons around the shop, under bench tops near power tools, on the wall by the bandsaw and underneath the tablesaw fence next to the power switch. I installed a couple power outlets in the crawl space under the shop for the controller as well as my air compressor which I located in a corner of the crawl. I also programmed the air filter as I discussed in my last post to automatically switch on with the dust collector and off 2 minutes after the collector is switched off. I'm extremely pleased with how this has worked out.

IMG_5192

Supplies Organized & Remaining Tools Installed

I finally managed to commit to drawer assignments for my tools and supplies. For the most part the drawers are logically organized, though a few of them are temporary "catch-alls" waiting for the day when I complete the upper cabinets. I enlisted the aid of my brother, sister-in-law and nephew to help wheel the 17" Grizzly bandsaw up a ramp and into the shop. This turned out to be not as difficult as I'd feared it would be. I also unboxed the Ridgid oscillating sander I'd purchased nearly 3 months ago and connected both to the dust collection drops installed previously. All the tools are in!

IMG_5264

Clamp Racks

Following some quick research at my favorite site, I assembled and mounted some clamp racks for my rather modest pipe, parallel and bar clamp collection. I still have a number of spring and "C" clamps to hang, but I'm satisfied with the arrangement for now.

IMG_5265

A Number of Tasks Remain

No matter how much I manage to accomplish, the list never really seems to get any shorter. Some tasks that remain are setting up dust collection for my router table and building an overarm blade guard for the table saw. The router table will require installing some kind of enclosure around the hanging router…which will take some time to devise. I'm also working on a design for a tall thin "drawer" to fill the 2 spaces in the RAS cabinet. These opening are roughly 36" tall by only 9" wide. I'm thinking that I'll create a sliding angled vertical panels in one to hold router bits and a vertical pull-out panel in the other for miter/RAS/table/circular saw blade storage. Next steps also include major improvements to the "large piece assembly area"-which my wife insists upon calling a "garage." Improvements include an updated lumber rack and sheet goods pen as well as some custom cabinets for "non-wood-related" storage…though I can't imagine what that might be.

IMG_5258

The bottom line is that I'm just about ready to get back to spending at least some time working "in" the shop instead of "on" the shop! Hooray!

(Originally Posted at http://tenonandspline.com/blog/archives/75)
See less See more
An Hour Here, a Half-Hour There and a Few Saturday Mornings

Over the past month I found very little contiguous time to make progress on the shop setup. Consequently I never felt like I had made significant enough progress in any given week to warrant a new post. While I'm still quite some distance from the finish line, I finally feel like I can actually say, once again, "I have a shop!"

IMG_5248

Dust Collection Controls

I installed a half-dozen doorbell buttons around the shop, under bench tops near power tools, on the wall by the bandsaw and underneath the tablesaw fence next to the power switch. I installed a couple power outlets in the crawl space under the shop for the controller as well as my air compressor which I located in a corner of the crawl. I also programmed the air filter as I discussed in my last post to automatically switch on with the dust collector and off 2 minutes after the collector is switched off. I'm extremely pleased with how this has worked out.

IMG_5192

Supplies Organized & Remaining Tools Installed

I finally managed to commit to drawer assignments for my tools and supplies. For the most part the drawers are logically organized, though a few of them are temporary "catch-alls" waiting for the day when I complete the upper cabinets. I enlisted the aid of my brother, sister-in-law and nephew to help wheel the 17" Grizzly bandsaw up a ramp and into the shop. This turned out to be not as difficult as I'd feared it would be. I also unboxed the Ridgid oscillating sander I'd purchased nearly 3 months ago and connected both to the dust collection drops installed previously. All the tools are in!

IMG_5264

Clamp Racks

Following some quick research at my favorite site, I assembled and mounted some clamp racks for my rather modest pipe, parallel and bar clamp collection. I still have a number of spring and "C" clamps to hang, but I'm satisfied with the arrangement for now.

IMG_5265

A Number of Tasks Remain

No matter how much I manage to accomplish, the list never really seems to get any shorter. Some tasks that remain are setting up dust collection for my router table and building an overarm blade guard for the table saw. The router table will require installing some kind of enclosure around the hanging router…which will take some time to devise. I'm also working on a design for a tall thin "drawer" to fill the 2 spaces in the RAS cabinet. These opening are roughly 36" tall by only 9" wide. I'm thinking that I'll create a sliding angled vertical panels in one to hold router bits and a vertical pull-out panel in the other for miter/RAS/table/circular saw blade storage. Next steps also include major improvements to the "large piece assembly area"-which my wife insists upon calling a "garage." Improvements include an updated lumber rack and sheet goods pen as well as some custom cabinets for "non-wood-related" storage…though I can't imagine what that might be.

IMG_5258

The bottom line is that I'm just about ready to get back to spending at least some time working "in" the shop instead of "on" the shop! Hooray!

(Originally Posted at http://tenonandspline.com/blog/archives/75)
Patrick, that is one serious looking workshop. i am sure it will be the envy of many Jocks including me. great effort.
An Hour Here, a Half-Hour There and a Few Saturday Mornings

Over the past month I found very little contiguous time to make progress on the shop setup. Consequently I never felt like I had made significant enough progress in any given week to warrant a new post. While I'm still quite some distance from the finish line, I finally feel like I can actually say, once again, "I have a shop!"

IMG_5248

Dust Collection Controls

I installed a half-dozen doorbell buttons around the shop, under bench tops near power tools, on the wall by the bandsaw and underneath the tablesaw fence next to the power switch. I installed a couple power outlets in the crawl space under the shop for the controller as well as my air compressor which I located in a corner of the crawl. I also programmed the air filter as I discussed in my last post to automatically switch on with the dust collector and off 2 minutes after the collector is switched off. I'm extremely pleased with how this has worked out.

IMG_5192

Supplies Organized & Remaining Tools Installed

I finally managed to commit to drawer assignments for my tools and supplies. For the most part the drawers are logically organized, though a few of them are temporary "catch-alls" waiting for the day when I complete the upper cabinets. I enlisted the aid of my brother, sister-in-law and nephew to help wheel the 17" Grizzly bandsaw up a ramp and into the shop. This turned out to be not as difficult as I'd feared it would be. I also unboxed the Ridgid oscillating sander I'd purchased nearly 3 months ago and connected both to the dust collection drops installed previously. All the tools are in!

IMG_5264

Clamp Racks

Following some quick research at my favorite site, I assembled and mounted some clamp racks for my rather modest pipe, parallel and bar clamp collection. I still have a number of spring and "C" clamps to hang, but I'm satisfied with the arrangement for now.

IMG_5265

A Number of Tasks Remain

No matter how much I manage to accomplish, the list never really seems to get any shorter. Some tasks that remain are setting up dust collection for my router table and building an overarm blade guard for the table saw. The router table will require installing some kind of enclosure around the hanging router…which will take some time to devise. I'm also working on a design for a tall thin "drawer" to fill the 2 spaces in the RAS cabinet. These opening are roughly 36" tall by only 9" wide. I'm thinking that I'll create a sliding angled vertical panels in one to hold router bits and a vertical pull-out panel in the other for miter/RAS/table/circular saw blade storage. Next steps also include major improvements to the "large piece assembly area"-which my wife insists upon calling a "garage." Improvements include an updated lumber rack and sheet goods pen as well as some custom cabinets for "non-wood-related" storage…though I can't imagine what that might be.

IMG_5258

The bottom line is that I'm just about ready to get back to spending at least some time working "in" the shop instead of "on" the shop! Hooray!

(Originally Posted at http://tenonandspline.com/blog/archives/75)
I'm sure that Ms Debbie will want to visit now. great looking.
An Hour Here, a Half-Hour There and a Few Saturday Mornings

Over the past month I found very little contiguous time to make progress on the shop setup. Consequently I never felt like I had made significant enough progress in any given week to warrant a new post. While I'm still quite some distance from the finish line, I finally feel like I can actually say, once again, "I have a shop!"

IMG_5248

Dust Collection Controls

I installed a half-dozen doorbell buttons around the shop, under bench tops near power tools, on the wall by the bandsaw and underneath the tablesaw fence next to the power switch. I installed a couple power outlets in the crawl space under the shop for the controller as well as my air compressor which I located in a corner of the crawl. I also programmed the air filter as I discussed in my last post to automatically switch on with the dust collector and off 2 minutes after the collector is switched off. I'm extremely pleased with how this has worked out.

IMG_5192

Supplies Organized & Remaining Tools Installed

I finally managed to commit to drawer assignments for my tools and supplies. For the most part the drawers are logically organized, though a few of them are temporary "catch-alls" waiting for the day when I complete the upper cabinets. I enlisted the aid of my brother, sister-in-law and nephew to help wheel the 17" Grizzly bandsaw up a ramp and into the shop. This turned out to be not as difficult as I'd feared it would be. I also unboxed the Ridgid oscillating sander I'd purchased nearly 3 months ago and connected both to the dust collection drops installed previously. All the tools are in!

IMG_5264

Clamp Racks

Following some quick research at my favorite site, I assembled and mounted some clamp racks for my rather modest pipe, parallel and bar clamp collection. I still have a number of spring and "C" clamps to hang, but I'm satisfied with the arrangement for now.

IMG_5265

A Number of Tasks Remain

No matter how much I manage to accomplish, the list never really seems to get any shorter. Some tasks that remain are setting up dust collection for my router table and building an overarm blade guard for the table saw. The router table will require installing some kind of enclosure around the hanging router…which will take some time to devise. I'm also working on a design for a tall thin "drawer" to fill the 2 spaces in the RAS cabinet. These opening are roughly 36" tall by only 9" wide. I'm thinking that I'll create a sliding angled vertical panels in one to hold router bits and a vertical pull-out panel in the other for miter/RAS/table/circular saw blade storage. Next steps also include major improvements to the "large piece assembly area"-which my wife insists upon calling a "garage." Improvements include an updated lumber rack and sheet goods pen as well as some custom cabinets for "non-wood-related" storage…though I can't imagine what that might be.

IMG_5258

The bottom line is that I'm just about ready to get back to spending at least some time working "in" the shop instead of "on" the shop! Hooray!

(Originally Posted at http://tenonandspline.com/blog/archives/75)
Hi Patrick

Congratulation for the progress you have made on your shop. I am sure it will feel good working in the shop once again. Your shop is one of the nicest looking and will designed shops I have seen. Thanks for your inspiration!

I am getting bids from tappers now and ordering the cyclone tomorrow.

Have you ever built the venturi box by your miter box saw yet?

God Bless
tom
An Hour Here, a Half-Hour There and a Few Saturday Mornings

Over the past month I found very little contiguous time to make progress on the shop setup. Consequently I never felt like I had made significant enough progress in any given week to warrant a new post. While I'm still quite some distance from the finish line, I finally feel like I can actually say, once again, "I have a shop!"

IMG_5248

Dust Collection Controls

I installed a half-dozen doorbell buttons around the shop, under bench tops near power tools, on the wall by the bandsaw and underneath the tablesaw fence next to the power switch. I installed a couple power outlets in the crawl space under the shop for the controller as well as my air compressor which I located in a corner of the crawl. I also programmed the air filter as I discussed in my last post to automatically switch on with the dust collector and off 2 minutes after the collector is switched off. I'm extremely pleased with how this has worked out.

IMG_5192

Supplies Organized & Remaining Tools Installed

I finally managed to commit to drawer assignments for my tools and supplies. For the most part the drawers are logically organized, though a few of them are temporary "catch-alls" waiting for the day when I complete the upper cabinets. I enlisted the aid of my brother, sister-in-law and nephew to help wheel the 17" Grizzly bandsaw up a ramp and into the shop. This turned out to be not as difficult as I'd feared it would be. I also unboxed the Ridgid oscillating sander I'd purchased nearly 3 months ago and connected both to the dust collection drops installed previously. All the tools are in!

IMG_5264

Clamp Racks

Following some quick research at my favorite site, I assembled and mounted some clamp racks for my rather modest pipe, parallel and bar clamp collection. I still have a number of spring and "C" clamps to hang, but I'm satisfied with the arrangement for now.

IMG_5265

A Number of Tasks Remain

No matter how much I manage to accomplish, the list never really seems to get any shorter. Some tasks that remain are setting up dust collection for my router table and building an overarm blade guard for the table saw. The router table will require installing some kind of enclosure around the hanging router…which will take some time to devise. I'm also working on a design for a tall thin "drawer" to fill the 2 spaces in the RAS cabinet. These opening are roughly 36" tall by only 9" wide. I'm thinking that I'll create a sliding angled vertical panels in one to hold router bits and a vertical pull-out panel in the other for miter/RAS/table/circular saw blade storage. Next steps also include major improvements to the "large piece assembly area"-which my wife insists upon calling a "garage." Improvements include an updated lumber rack and sheet goods pen as well as some custom cabinets for "non-wood-related" storage…though I can't imagine what that might be.

IMG_5258

The bottom line is that I'm just about ready to get back to spending at least some time working "in" the shop instead of "on" the shop! Hooray!

(Originally Posted at http://tenonandspline.com/blog/archives/75)
Patrick,

This is a beautiful shop. I love the walls and the hardwood floors. Wow. This is an upscale shop. You have designed it well and it is a visual delight to be in too.

Great job.
An Hour Here, a Half-Hour There and a Few Saturday Mornings

Over the past month I found very little contiguous time to make progress on the shop setup. Consequently I never felt like I had made significant enough progress in any given week to warrant a new post. While I'm still quite some distance from the finish line, I finally feel like I can actually say, once again, "I have a shop!"

IMG_5248

Dust Collection Controls

I installed a half-dozen doorbell buttons around the shop, under bench tops near power tools, on the wall by the bandsaw and underneath the tablesaw fence next to the power switch. I installed a couple power outlets in the crawl space under the shop for the controller as well as my air compressor which I located in a corner of the crawl. I also programmed the air filter as I discussed in my last post to automatically switch on with the dust collector and off 2 minutes after the collector is switched off. I'm extremely pleased with how this has worked out.

IMG_5192

Supplies Organized & Remaining Tools Installed

I finally managed to commit to drawer assignments for my tools and supplies. For the most part the drawers are logically organized, though a few of them are temporary "catch-alls" waiting for the day when I complete the upper cabinets. I enlisted the aid of my brother, sister-in-law and nephew to help wheel the 17" Grizzly bandsaw up a ramp and into the shop. This turned out to be not as difficult as I'd feared it would be. I also unboxed the Ridgid oscillating sander I'd purchased nearly 3 months ago and connected both to the dust collection drops installed previously. All the tools are in!

IMG_5264

Clamp Racks

Following some quick research at my favorite site, I assembled and mounted some clamp racks for my rather modest pipe, parallel and bar clamp collection. I still have a number of spring and "C" clamps to hang, but I'm satisfied with the arrangement for now.

IMG_5265

A Number of Tasks Remain

No matter how much I manage to accomplish, the list never really seems to get any shorter. Some tasks that remain are setting up dust collection for my router table and building an overarm blade guard for the table saw. The router table will require installing some kind of enclosure around the hanging router…which will take some time to devise. I'm also working on a design for a tall thin "drawer" to fill the 2 spaces in the RAS cabinet. These opening are roughly 36" tall by only 9" wide. I'm thinking that I'll create a sliding angled vertical panels in one to hold router bits and a vertical pull-out panel in the other for miter/RAS/table/circular saw blade storage. Next steps also include major improvements to the "large piece assembly area"-which my wife insists upon calling a "garage." Improvements include an updated lumber rack and sheet goods pen as well as some custom cabinets for "non-wood-related" storage…though I can't imagine what that might be.

IMG_5258

The bottom line is that I'm just about ready to get back to spending at least some time working "in" the shop instead of "on" the shop! Hooray!

(Originally Posted at http://tenonandspline.com/blog/archives/75)
Well, Patrick, it looks like you got it done. Well thought out and functional. Well done.
An Hour Here, a Half-Hour There and a Few Saturday Mornings

Over the past month I found very little contiguous time to make progress on the shop setup. Consequently I never felt like I had made significant enough progress in any given week to warrant a new post. While I'm still quite some distance from the finish line, I finally feel like I can actually say, once again, "I have a shop!"

IMG_5248

Dust Collection Controls

I installed a half-dozen doorbell buttons around the shop, under bench tops near power tools, on the wall by the bandsaw and underneath the tablesaw fence next to the power switch. I installed a couple power outlets in the crawl space under the shop for the controller as well as my air compressor which I located in a corner of the crawl. I also programmed the air filter as I discussed in my last post to automatically switch on with the dust collector and off 2 minutes after the collector is switched off. I'm extremely pleased with how this has worked out.

IMG_5192

Supplies Organized & Remaining Tools Installed

I finally managed to commit to drawer assignments for my tools and supplies. For the most part the drawers are logically organized, though a few of them are temporary "catch-alls" waiting for the day when I complete the upper cabinets. I enlisted the aid of my brother, sister-in-law and nephew to help wheel the 17" Grizzly bandsaw up a ramp and into the shop. This turned out to be not as difficult as I'd feared it would be. I also unboxed the Ridgid oscillating sander I'd purchased nearly 3 months ago and connected both to the dust collection drops installed previously. All the tools are in!

IMG_5264

Clamp Racks

Following some quick research at my favorite site, I assembled and mounted some clamp racks for my rather modest pipe, parallel and bar clamp collection. I still have a number of spring and "C" clamps to hang, but I'm satisfied with the arrangement for now.

IMG_5265

A Number of Tasks Remain

No matter how much I manage to accomplish, the list never really seems to get any shorter. Some tasks that remain are setting up dust collection for my router table and building an overarm blade guard for the table saw. The router table will require installing some kind of enclosure around the hanging router…which will take some time to devise. I'm also working on a design for a tall thin "drawer" to fill the 2 spaces in the RAS cabinet. These opening are roughly 36" tall by only 9" wide. I'm thinking that I'll create a sliding angled vertical panels in one to hold router bits and a vertical pull-out panel in the other for miter/RAS/table/circular saw blade storage. Next steps also include major improvements to the "large piece assembly area"-which my wife insists upon calling a "garage." Improvements include an updated lumber rack and sheet goods pen as well as some custom cabinets for "non-wood-related" storage…though I can't imagine what that might be.

IMG_5258

The bottom line is that I'm just about ready to get back to spending at least some time working "in" the shop instead of "on" the shop! Hooray!

(Originally Posted at http://tenonandspline.com/blog/archives/75)
Thanks, All!

Tom - I tried a couple cardboard mock up venturi boxes but there's just not enough room behind the saw for it. At this point I've hooked up the built-in dust port, which has already become clogged once during use and also added a piece of 4" pipe with a narrow slit running the length behind the saw.

When I rigged this up I was unable to locate any jigsaw blades, so the "slit" was crudely "hacked out" with a drill and some pliers…I figured I'd make a neater version if it actually worked. The jury's still out on that. For what it's worth, here's the pic:

IMG_5267

I'm not sure how effective these measures are but it's the best I've come up with thus far. I'm going to continue to experiment and look around at other woodworker's solutions as time permits. Needless-to-say I'd love to hear about what others may have done and found effective.
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An Hour Here, a Half-Hour There and a Few Saturday Mornings

Over the past month I found very little contiguous time to make progress on the shop setup. Consequently I never felt like I had made significant enough progress in any given week to warrant a new post. While I'm still quite some distance from the finish line, I finally feel like I can actually say, once again, "I have a shop!"

IMG_5248

Dust Collection Controls

I installed a half-dozen doorbell buttons around the shop, under bench tops near power tools, on the wall by the bandsaw and underneath the tablesaw fence next to the power switch. I installed a couple power outlets in the crawl space under the shop for the controller as well as my air compressor which I located in a corner of the crawl. I also programmed the air filter as I discussed in my last post to automatically switch on with the dust collector and off 2 minutes after the collector is switched off. I'm extremely pleased with how this has worked out.

IMG_5192

Supplies Organized & Remaining Tools Installed

I finally managed to commit to drawer assignments for my tools and supplies. For the most part the drawers are logically organized, though a few of them are temporary "catch-alls" waiting for the day when I complete the upper cabinets. I enlisted the aid of my brother, sister-in-law and nephew to help wheel the 17" Grizzly bandsaw up a ramp and into the shop. This turned out to be not as difficult as I'd feared it would be. I also unboxed the Ridgid oscillating sander I'd purchased nearly 3 months ago and connected both to the dust collection drops installed previously. All the tools are in!

IMG_5264

Clamp Racks

Following some quick research at my favorite site, I assembled and mounted some clamp racks for my rather modest pipe, parallel and bar clamp collection. I still have a number of spring and "C" clamps to hang, but I'm satisfied with the arrangement for now.

IMG_5265

A Number of Tasks Remain

No matter how much I manage to accomplish, the list never really seems to get any shorter. Some tasks that remain are setting up dust collection for my router table and building an overarm blade guard for the table saw. The router table will require installing some kind of enclosure around the hanging router…which will take some time to devise. I'm also working on a design for a tall thin "drawer" to fill the 2 spaces in the RAS cabinet. These opening are roughly 36" tall by only 9" wide. I'm thinking that I'll create a sliding angled vertical panels in one to hold router bits and a vertical pull-out panel in the other for miter/RAS/table/circular saw blade storage. Next steps also include major improvements to the "large piece assembly area"-which my wife insists upon calling a "garage." Improvements include an updated lumber rack and sheet goods pen as well as some custom cabinets for "non-wood-related" storage…though I can't imagine what that might be.

IMG_5258

The bottom line is that I'm just about ready to get back to spending at least some time working "in" the shop instead of "on" the shop! Hooray!

(Originally Posted at http://tenonandspline.com/blog/archives/75)
Ah, what I wouldn't give for a shop that nice!
An Hour Here, a Half-Hour There and a Few Saturday Mornings

Over the past month I found very little contiguous time to make progress on the shop setup. Consequently I never felt like I had made significant enough progress in any given week to warrant a new post. While I'm still quite some distance from the finish line, I finally feel like I can actually say, once again, "I have a shop!"

IMG_5248

Dust Collection Controls

I installed a half-dozen doorbell buttons around the shop, under bench tops near power tools, on the wall by the bandsaw and underneath the tablesaw fence next to the power switch. I installed a couple power outlets in the crawl space under the shop for the controller as well as my air compressor which I located in a corner of the crawl. I also programmed the air filter as I discussed in my last post to automatically switch on with the dust collector and off 2 minutes after the collector is switched off. I'm extremely pleased with how this has worked out.

IMG_5192

Supplies Organized & Remaining Tools Installed

I finally managed to commit to drawer assignments for my tools and supplies. For the most part the drawers are logically organized, though a few of them are temporary "catch-alls" waiting for the day when I complete the upper cabinets. I enlisted the aid of my brother, sister-in-law and nephew to help wheel the 17" Grizzly bandsaw up a ramp and into the shop. This turned out to be not as difficult as I'd feared it would be. I also unboxed the Ridgid oscillating sander I'd purchased nearly 3 months ago and connected both to the dust collection drops installed previously. All the tools are in!

IMG_5264

Clamp Racks

Following some quick research at my favorite site, I assembled and mounted some clamp racks for my rather modest pipe, parallel and bar clamp collection. I still have a number of spring and "C" clamps to hang, but I'm satisfied with the arrangement for now.

IMG_5265

A Number of Tasks Remain

No matter how much I manage to accomplish, the list never really seems to get any shorter. Some tasks that remain are setting up dust collection for my router table and building an overarm blade guard for the table saw. The router table will require installing some kind of enclosure around the hanging router…which will take some time to devise. I'm also working on a design for a tall thin "drawer" to fill the 2 spaces in the RAS cabinet. These opening are roughly 36" tall by only 9" wide. I'm thinking that I'll create a sliding angled vertical panels in one to hold router bits and a vertical pull-out panel in the other for miter/RAS/table/circular saw blade storage. Next steps also include major improvements to the "large piece assembly area"-which my wife insists upon calling a "garage." Improvements include an updated lumber rack and sheet goods pen as well as some custom cabinets for "non-wood-related" storage…though I can't imagine what that might be.

IMG_5258

The bottom line is that I'm just about ready to get back to spending at least some time working "in" the shop instead of "on" the shop! Hooray!

(Originally Posted at http://tenonandspline.com/blog/archives/75)
Is there such a think as woodworker heaven. If so, you found it.
You have done what ever woodworker wish they could do.
Great Play Ground.
An Hour Here, a Half-Hour There and a Few Saturday Mornings

Over the past month I found very little contiguous time to make progress on the shop setup. Consequently I never felt like I had made significant enough progress in any given week to warrant a new post. While I'm still quite some distance from the finish line, I finally feel like I can actually say, once again, "I have a shop!"

IMG_5248

Dust Collection Controls

I installed a half-dozen doorbell buttons around the shop, under bench tops near power tools, on the wall by the bandsaw and underneath the tablesaw fence next to the power switch. I installed a couple power outlets in the crawl space under the shop for the controller as well as my air compressor which I located in a corner of the crawl. I also programmed the air filter as I discussed in my last post to automatically switch on with the dust collector and off 2 minutes after the collector is switched off. I'm extremely pleased with how this has worked out.

IMG_5192

Supplies Organized & Remaining Tools Installed

I finally managed to commit to drawer assignments for my tools and supplies. For the most part the drawers are logically organized, though a few of them are temporary "catch-alls" waiting for the day when I complete the upper cabinets. I enlisted the aid of my brother, sister-in-law and nephew to help wheel the 17" Grizzly bandsaw up a ramp and into the shop. This turned out to be not as difficult as I'd feared it would be. I also unboxed the Ridgid oscillating sander I'd purchased nearly 3 months ago and connected both to the dust collection drops installed previously. All the tools are in!

IMG_5264

Clamp Racks

Following some quick research at my favorite site, I assembled and mounted some clamp racks for my rather modest pipe, parallel and bar clamp collection. I still have a number of spring and "C" clamps to hang, but I'm satisfied with the arrangement for now.

IMG_5265

A Number of Tasks Remain

No matter how much I manage to accomplish, the list never really seems to get any shorter. Some tasks that remain are setting up dust collection for my router table and building an overarm blade guard for the table saw. The router table will require installing some kind of enclosure around the hanging router…which will take some time to devise. I'm also working on a design for a tall thin "drawer" to fill the 2 spaces in the RAS cabinet. These opening are roughly 36" tall by only 9" wide. I'm thinking that I'll create a sliding angled vertical panels in one to hold router bits and a vertical pull-out panel in the other for miter/RAS/table/circular saw blade storage. Next steps also include major improvements to the "large piece assembly area"-which my wife insists upon calling a "garage." Improvements include an updated lumber rack and sheet goods pen as well as some custom cabinets for "non-wood-related" storage…though I can't imagine what that might be.

IMG_5258

The bottom line is that I'm just about ready to get back to spending at least some time working "in" the shop instead of "on" the shop! Hooray!

(Originally Posted at http://tenonandspline.com/blog/archives/75)
''I installed a half-dozen doorbell buttons around the shop'' are they to start 3hp DC and if so how. I would Like to do some thin like this.
An Hour Here, a Half-Hour There and a Few Saturday Mornings

Over the past month I found very little contiguous time to make progress on the shop setup. Consequently I never felt like I had made significant enough progress in any given week to warrant a new post. While I'm still quite some distance from the finish line, I finally feel like I can actually say, once again, "I have a shop!"

IMG_5248

Dust Collection Controls

I installed a half-dozen doorbell buttons around the shop, under bench tops near power tools, on the wall by the bandsaw and underneath the tablesaw fence next to the power switch. I installed a couple power outlets in the crawl space under the shop for the controller as well as my air compressor which I located in a corner of the crawl. I also programmed the air filter as I discussed in my last post to automatically switch on with the dust collector and off 2 minutes after the collector is switched off. I'm extremely pleased with how this has worked out.

IMG_5192

Supplies Organized & Remaining Tools Installed

I finally managed to commit to drawer assignments for my tools and supplies. For the most part the drawers are logically organized, though a few of them are temporary "catch-alls" waiting for the day when I complete the upper cabinets. I enlisted the aid of my brother, sister-in-law and nephew to help wheel the 17" Grizzly bandsaw up a ramp and into the shop. This turned out to be not as difficult as I'd feared it would be. I also unboxed the Ridgid oscillating sander I'd purchased nearly 3 months ago and connected both to the dust collection drops installed previously. All the tools are in!

IMG_5264

Clamp Racks

Following some quick research at my favorite site, I assembled and mounted some clamp racks for my rather modest pipe, parallel and bar clamp collection. I still have a number of spring and "C" clamps to hang, but I'm satisfied with the arrangement for now.

IMG_5265

A Number of Tasks Remain

No matter how much I manage to accomplish, the list never really seems to get any shorter. Some tasks that remain are setting up dust collection for my router table and building an overarm blade guard for the table saw. The router table will require installing some kind of enclosure around the hanging router…which will take some time to devise. I'm also working on a design for a tall thin "drawer" to fill the 2 spaces in the RAS cabinet. These opening are roughly 36" tall by only 9" wide. I'm thinking that I'll create a sliding angled vertical panels in one to hold router bits and a vertical pull-out panel in the other for miter/RAS/table/circular saw blade storage. Next steps also include major improvements to the "large piece assembly area"-which my wife insists upon calling a "garage." Improvements include an updated lumber rack and sheet goods pen as well as some custom cabinets for "non-wood-related" storage…though I can't imagine what that might be.

IMG_5258

The bottom line is that I'm just about ready to get back to spending at least some time working "in" the shop instead of "on" the shop! Hooray!

(Originally Posted at http://tenonandspline.com/blog/archives/75)
Nice shop. When I was laying out my shop I installed switches all around, but never ended up using them.

I have a long ranger remote which I always had to look all over for in my old shop.(because it was so small everything was stacked up all over the place and the remote was always under something.)

Now that I'm in my new shop it's always in view and I never lose track of it, so I never hooked up the
switches.
An Hour Here, a Half-Hour There and a Few Saturday Mornings

Over the past month I found very little contiguous time to make progress on the shop setup. Consequently I never felt like I had made significant enough progress in any given week to warrant a new post. While I'm still quite some distance from the finish line, I finally feel like I can actually say, once again, "I have a shop!"

IMG_5248

Dust Collection Controls

I installed a half-dozen doorbell buttons around the shop, under bench tops near power tools, on the wall by the bandsaw and underneath the tablesaw fence next to the power switch. I installed a couple power outlets in the crawl space under the shop for the controller as well as my air compressor which I located in a corner of the crawl. I also programmed the air filter as I discussed in my last post to automatically switch on with the dust collector and off 2 minutes after the collector is switched off. I'm extremely pleased with how this has worked out.

IMG_5192

Supplies Organized & Remaining Tools Installed

I finally managed to commit to drawer assignments for my tools and supplies. For the most part the drawers are logically organized, though a few of them are temporary "catch-alls" waiting for the day when I complete the upper cabinets. I enlisted the aid of my brother, sister-in-law and nephew to help wheel the 17" Grizzly bandsaw up a ramp and into the shop. This turned out to be not as difficult as I'd feared it would be. I also unboxed the Ridgid oscillating sander I'd purchased nearly 3 months ago and connected both to the dust collection drops installed previously. All the tools are in!

IMG_5264

Clamp Racks

Following some quick research at my favorite site, I assembled and mounted some clamp racks for my rather modest pipe, parallel and bar clamp collection. I still have a number of spring and "C" clamps to hang, but I'm satisfied with the arrangement for now.

IMG_5265

A Number of Tasks Remain

No matter how much I manage to accomplish, the list never really seems to get any shorter. Some tasks that remain are setting up dust collection for my router table and building an overarm blade guard for the table saw. The router table will require installing some kind of enclosure around the hanging router…which will take some time to devise. I'm also working on a design for a tall thin "drawer" to fill the 2 spaces in the RAS cabinet. These opening are roughly 36" tall by only 9" wide. I'm thinking that I'll create a sliding angled vertical panels in one to hold router bits and a vertical pull-out panel in the other for miter/RAS/table/circular saw blade storage. Next steps also include major improvements to the "large piece assembly area"-which my wife insists upon calling a "garage." Improvements include an updated lumber rack and sheet goods pen as well as some custom cabinets for "non-wood-related" storage…though I can't imagine what that might be.

IMG_5258

The bottom line is that I'm just about ready to get back to spending at least some time working "in" the shop instead of "on" the shop! Hooray!

(Originally Posted at http://tenonandspline.com/blog/archives/75)
Partidge - yes, they are to stop/stop the DC system. There are a number of ways to accomplish something like this. Since I was already using Insteon/X10 for my home and shop and am something of a geek, I chose an X-10 based solution. In order to eliminate the need for toggle switches (wired 4-way) I built a very simple latching circuit from plans I round online that hooks up to an X-10 "powerflash" device. The upshot is that I can toggle the DC system on or off from any of 1/2 dozen simple pushbutton (doorbell) switches. It's working just great for me…I'm very happy I set this up. For more details and a video, see my blog post on this: http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/pjaromin/blog/3713

Gary-yeah, wish my shop were as big as yours…though I have an X10 RF remote that works for this, I just don't like carrying it around. I've hung it by a workbench and currently use it there instead of installing a fixed switch at that location.
An Hour Here, a Half-Hour There and a Few Saturday Mornings

Over the past month I found very little contiguous time to make progress on the shop setup. Consequently I never felt like I had made significant enough progress in any given week to warrant a new post. While I'm still quite some distance from the finish line, I finally feel like I can actually say, once again, "I have a shop!"

IMG_5248

Dust Collection Controls

I installed a half-dozen doorbell buttons around the shop, under bench tops near power tools, on the wall by the bandsaw and underneath the tablesaw fence next to the power switch. I installed a couple power outlets in the crawl space under the shop for the controller as well as my air compressor which I located in a corner of the crawl. I also programmed the air filter as I discussed in my last post to automatically switch on with the dust collector and off 2 minutes after the collector is switched off. I'm extremely pleased with how this has worked out.

IMG_5192

Supplies Organized & Remaining Tools Installed

I finally managed to commit to drawer assignments for my tools and supplies. For the most part the drawers are logically organized, though a few of them are temporary "catch-alls" waiting for the day when I complete the upper cabinets. I enlisted the aid of my brother, sister-in-law and nephew to help wheel the 17" Grizzly bandsaw up a ramp and into the shop. This turned out to be not as difficult as I'd feared it would be. I also unboxed the Ridgid oscillating sander I'd purchased nearly 3 months ago and connected both to the dust collection drops installed previously. All the tools are in!

IMG_5264

Clamp Racks

Following some quick research at my favorite site, I assembled and mounted some clamp racks for my rather modest pipe, parallel and bar clamp collection. I still have a number of spring and "C" clamps to hang, but I'm satisfied with the arrangement for now.

IMG_5265

A Number of Tasks Remain

No matter how much I manage to accomplish, the list never really seems to get any shorter. Some tasks that remain are setting up dust collection for my router table and building an overarm blade guard for the table saw. The router table will require installing some kind of enclosure around the hanging router…which will take some time to devise. I'm also working on a design for a tall thin "drawer" to fill the 2 spaces in the RAS cabinet. These opening are roughly 36" tall by only 9" wide. I'm thinking that I'll create a sliding angled vertical panels in one to hold router bits and a vertical pull-out panel in the other for miter/RAS/table/circular saw blade storage. Next steps also include major improvements to the "large piece assembly area"-which my wife insists upon calling a "garage." Improvements include an updated lumber rack and sheet goods pen as well as some custom cabinets for "non-wood-related" storage…though I can't imagine what that might be.

IMG_5258

The bottom line is that I'm just about ready to get back to spending at least some time working "in" the shop instead of "on" the shop! Hooray!

(Originally Posted at http://tenonandspline.com/blog/archives/75)
What a beautiful shop! Congrats…I love the knotty pine on the walls, and the skylights are a great touch. Looks like you gave the layout some thought too. I have to admit I'm jealous…I would be in there all the time!
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