The sparking is likely because the blade is striking something, probably the side bearings. The blade is likely been beat up pretty bad with bent teeth or the set has been taken out from striking the side bearings.
Is this a 2 or 3 wheel band saw? Either type it is important that you get the blade tracking in the center of the wheels. One major adjustment to get this to happen is to have all the wheels in the exact same plane. A 2 wheel saw is easier to adjust. Most likely you will need to get some shim washers (or make some yourself from thin brass or even soda can aluminum) to get the wheels perfectly in line.
Also, it would be very helpfull vibration wise if the wheels spun true.
The rubber tires (often made of urethene) on the wheels should have a little bit of hump around the circumfrence. And they should be a little bit "grippy". If not, they might need replacing.
The side to side or thrust bearings/blocks should just miss kissing the blade by about 1/32" or less. There should be four of these, two above and two below the table. If they are true bearings and spin, they can just kiss the blade but if they are simple blocks or pins, you really don't want the blade dragging on them (aftermarket Coolblocks not withstanding). Likewise, there should be two rear guide bearings. These should just miss the blade by 1/32" or less.
And the opening in the table should clear the blade. In short, nothing should be dragging on the blade.
You can find several videos on tuning up a bandsaw at www.woodworkingonline.com and www.woodmagazine.com And I think some over at www.finewoodworking.com too. All good information.
Good luck with the bandsaw. Look into getting a new blade, maybe a 1/4" for fine curves and a 3/8" for everything else. Not at all sure the widest blade that will allow but maybe you can find a manual.
Is this a 2 or 3 wheel band saw? Either type it is important that you get the blade tracking in the center of the wheels. One major adjustment to get this to happen is to have all the wheels in the exact same plane. A 2 wheel saw is easier to adjust. Most likely you will need to get some shim washers (or make some yourself from thin brass or even soda can aluminum) to get the wheels perfectly in line.
Also, it would be very helpfull vibration wise if the wheels spun true.
The rubber tires (often made of urethene) on the wheels should have a little bit of hump around the circumfrence. And they should be a little bit "grippy". If not, they might need replacing.
The side to side or thrust bearings/blocks should just miss kissing the blade by about 1/32" or less. There should be four of these, two above and two below the table. If they are true bearings and spin, they can just kiss the blade but if they are simple blocks or pins, you really don't want the blade dragging on them (aftermarket Coolblocks not withstanding). Likewise, there should be two rear guide bearings. These should just miss the blade by 1/32" or less.
And the opening in the table should clear the blade. In short, nothing should be dragging on the blade.
You can find several videos on tuning up a bandsaw at www.woodworkingonline.com and www.woodmagazine.com And I think some over at www.finewoodworking.com too. All good information.
Good luck with the bandsaw. Look into getting a new blade, maybe a 1/4" for fine curves and a 3/8" for everything else. Not at all sure the widest blade that will allow but maybe you can find a manual.
