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My wife has let it be known that she wants a cutting board which I have never tried but am willing to give it a go. Being the good hubby that I am I want to make sure the board is perfectly flat soooo I think I neen a thickness plane. I have been looking at the 12in dewalt. Mostly because the box store near me carries it and I have always liked DeWalt. Has anyone used this one or have any suggestions. I do all this for the wife so any and all help will be appreciated.

Paul
 

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I have the 13 inch Dewalt and I have had the best of luck with it. Make sure you keep the rollers clean and at least mine will give me about 2 inches of snipe if I am not careful. It's a great piece of machinery.
 

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I owned the 12" before upgrading to the 13", both are good machines and you won't go wrong, just as wseand mentioned, watch the snipe.

One recommendation, you can use the planer for thicknessing the glued up strip assembly, but I would not recommend trying to plane out the board once the end-grain is exposed, people report bad things happening, I have never tried it. Just spend some quality time with the ROS to get the surfaces smooth.
 

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You are going to see that there are 2 DeWalt planers: the 734 and the 735. The 735 is quite a bit more expensive, especially after you buy the option wings that you really need. They are both very good planners. You'll find disagreement on this board but, in my opinion, the 734 is perfectly sufficient.

The 734 has 3 knives. It's predecessor, 733, is virtually identical but it has only 2 knives. I have been using a 733 for over 10 years and I think it is great. If it ever wears out I will replace it with a 734.
 

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Also keep an eye on Craigslist, used planers can go very reasonably. The only piece of Ryobi left in my shop is the unused AP1300 I picked up off of CL, love it.

Few things to look for in a lunchbox planer

1. Cutterhead lock, this will limit snipe significantly
2. Easy to set knives, nothing more painful then trying to align and set knives by hand
3. Adjustable in and outfeed tables

Otherwise enjoy, but also remember like acquiring your first jointer soon after purchasing a planer you'll be looking into dust/chip control, nature of the beast
 

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I have the 735, the trick with snipe seems to be gently (barely) lifting as the piece comes out of the planer. If I'm careful about that, I don't get snipe. I've had some problems with chipped blades, one of those was definitely a brad left in some wood I was reclaiming, the other might have been a bit of a thick glue seam. So be careful about planing glued-up joints where the joint is thick, and clean up all squeeze-out first. Blade changing is easy, but pricey (though the blades are two-sided), and the blades are indexed so there isn't the careful height adjustment that happens with systems with resharpenable blades.

I can't speak to the 734 vs 735 issue, and if you've got the room for it you may just look for a fixed base unit because, for instance, mine is on a roll-around table anyway (even though I've got a really tight shop space).
 

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I have the 735 and it is a nice machine. The chip blower helps a lot coupled to the DC hose. I don't think the 734 has the chip blower so you will probably need some sort of DC hookup.

Because the blades are thin, I wire brush both sides of wood I am jointing and then planing to get dirt and silica off. I think in the long run the blades will last longer doing this.

Also take just little bites at a time. 1/32 or even a 1/64 on each pass will do the job, and its kinda neat to watch the grain emerge while you thickness the board.
 
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