New Life for a Columbian Woodworking Vise

hhhopks said:

Columbian Woodworking Vise Find

I just got back from a woodworking tool estate sale. There were many good buys. I would of purchase a lot more but ran out of money. I spotted this woodworking vise and noticed that it is a quick release. I already got an old vice for the workbench that I am currently building, but it is not a quick release. I thought I would give it a go. I am taking a chance in buying a vise that wouldn't turn. For $25.00, I don't think it is much of a gamble.
Here's what I have found so far:

1. It is a little rusty.
2. Something is keeping the screw from tuning.
3. It is a woodworking vise, from "The Columbian Vise MFG Co Cleveland Ohio".
4. You can still see the faded greenish gray color paint on the vise.
5. The handle is missing.
6. The screw to handle length is about 19", jaw width is 7" and the jaw depth is 4".
7. There is some marking toward the back that I can't read clearly at this time. I believe something "10". Perhaps the jaws have a 10 inch opening.

The vise basically look the same as the one that I already have. Maybe the one I already got is a bit older. I thought perhaps I could "borrow" parts but even though they look the same, I doubt the parts are the same. We shall see. Hopefully, I wouldn't need any parts.

Here is my plan on cleaning this new old vise:

1. Unfreeze the screw to see it move. Hopefully, all goes well. No sense of restoring the vise if it won't move.
2. Remove the rust following the advices posted here on LJ. I will most likely use the electrolysis method provided I have the proper container. We'll see how it goes.
3. Paint the appropriate surface.
4. Lubricate the moving parts.
5. If timing is right, gather the hardware and mount it on my new workbench.

Click to expand...

hhhopks said:

Columbian Woodworking Vise Find

I just got back from a woodworking tool estate sale. There were many good buys. I would of purchase a lot more but ran out of money. I spotted this woodworking vise and noticed that it is a quick release. I already got an old vice for the workbench that I am currently building, but it is not a quick release. I thought I would give it a go. I am taking a chance in buying a vise that wouldn't turn. For $25.00, I don't think it is much of a gamble.
Here's what I have found so far:

1. It is a little rusty.
2. Something is keeping the screw from tuning.
3. It is a woodworking vise, from "The Columbian Vise MFG Co Cleveland Ohio".
4. You can still see the faded greenish gray color paint on the vise.
5. The handle is missing.
6. The screw to handle length is about 19", jaw width is 7" and the jaw depth is 4".
7. There is some marking toward the back that I can't read clearly at this time. I believe something "10". Perhaps the jaws have a 10 inch opening.

The vise basically look the same as the one that I already have. Maybe the one I already got is a bit older. I thought perhaps I could "borrow" parts but even though they look the same, I doubt the parts are the same. We shall see. Hopefully, I wouldn't need any parts.

Here is my plan on cleaning this new old vise:

1. Unfreeze the screw to see it move. Hopefully, all goes well. No sense of restoring the vise if it won't move.
2. Remove the rust following the advices posted here on LJ. I will most likely use the electrolysis method provided I have the proper container. We'll see how it goes.
3. Paint the appropriate surface.
4. Lubricate the moving parts.
5. If timing is right, gather the hardware and mount it on my new workbench.

Click to expand...

hhhopks said:

Columbian Woodworking Vise Find

I just got back from a woodworking tool estate sale. There were many good buys. I would of purchase a lot more but ran out of money. I spotted this woodworking vise and noticed that it is a quick release. I already got an old vice for the workbench that I am currently building, but it is not a quick release. I thought I would give it a go. I am taking a chance in buying a vise that wouldn't turn. For $25.00, I don't think it is much of a gamble.
Here's what I have found so far:

1. It is a little rusty.
2. Something is keeping the screw from tuning.
3. It is a woodworking vise, from "The Columbian Vise MFG Co Cleveland Ohio".
4. You can still see the faded greenish gray color paint on the vise.
5. The handle is missing.
6. The screw to handle length is about 19", jaw width is 7" and the jaw depth is 4".
7. There is some marking toward the back that I can't read clearly at this time. I believe something "10". Perhaps the jaws have a 10 inch opening.

The vise basically look the same as the one that I already have. Maybe the one I already got is a bit older. I thought perhaps I could "borrow" parts but even though they look the same, I doubt the parts are the same. We shall see. Hopefully, I wouldn't need any parts.

Here is my plan on cleaning this new old vise:

1. Unfreeze the screw to see it move. Hopefully, all goes well. No sense of restoring the vise if it won't move.
2. Remove the rust following the advices posted here on LJ. I will most likely use the electrolysis method provided I have the proper container. We'll see how it goes.
3. Paint the appropriate surface.
4. Lubricate the moving parts.
5. If timing is right, gather the hardware and mount it on my new workbench.

Click to expand...

hhhopks said:

Will it turn?

So far so good, there are no surprises. No cracks or breaks. As you recall from my previous blog post the vise will not turn. There is no sense of restoring the vise if you can get to move. So this blog is about getting the screw to turn.
I searched for woodworking Columbian vise information. There don't seem to be much. What I have found so far are mostly pictures and mounting information, but not the details that I am after. Hopefully I am correct in my selection of words in describing the particular parts of the vise. Evidently, there isn't as much focus on woodworking vises verses planes, chisels, and other hand tools. Any links or assistance will be appreciated.

As founded, vise in the fully opened position.

I got the vise positioned (upside down), as viewed from the underside of the workbench. The operation of the vise is pretty simple. Right? You turn the handle and the screw turns. In this vise there is a handle hub in the front. The front jaw moves in and out along with the screw. The back jaw and assembly part is supposed to be anchor to the bench so it is stationary.

You can clearly see that there is a hub cover of some sort toward the back. It has two big screws which I removed to see what's in it. Maybe something in there is keeping the screw from moving. After removal of this cover, it is not apparent what keeps the screw from moving. Now, it is more obvious to me how this quick release works. There is a spring loaded shoe about 1/3 round x 3 inches long with threads to engage the screw. When the groove portion of the screw is at that position, there is no contact. The screw will slide right over shoe. The hub that was removed has no threads on the inside. Anyway, I attempted to turn the screw but it will not move.

Old mechanical part not moving; I dealt with this problem before. A former associate who is a tool & die machinist have suggested WD40 (penetrating oil/lubricant) is the best starting point. After spraying the screws along the mating area, I simply took a break.

After about 15 minutes, I returned and tried to move the screw. It won't move! A little discouraged, I decided to use a dowel to give it a little more leverage. I was turning it by hand. I placed a dowel through the handle hub. Yes, I could feel the screw gives. I proceed to rock the handle back & forth a few more times. I stop and give it another good Wd40 spray. Let it sit for few more minutes. I resume the rocking motion. The screw travels more and more after each rocking cycle.

Will it slide? The groove of the screw has to face up (relative to the actual workbench mounting position). Keep in mind that I have never used a quick release vise before. Yes, I could feel it move. Surprisingly, I could move it quite easily. The vise will slide back & forth. I went back in turning the screw. Oops, is it stuck again? After few minute of messing with the screw, is when I learned, that a quick release vise only turns 315 deg. I did notice that the front face of the vise has stops to limit the handle travel. It never sank in until now. Anyway 315 deg turn it is. I proceed with turning the screw back & forth for each of the screw section to check movement. I spray WD40 as I go. When the front jaw is fully extended, the opening between jaws is 10-1/4 inches. There appears to be nothing wrong with this vise.  Well OK, it is missing a handle.

The vise in the fully closed position.

I do have concerns taking the vice apart. They are:

1. The screw has a pin (cotta pin?) at the end to keep the end plate from coming off. OK, it's no big deal. It has rust. It probably easier to just replace it.
2. The front wise has a nut to hold each guide rod in place. So that should come out easily.
3. This is the part which concerns me the most. The pin at the handle hub. This must be removed for the screw to come off the vise. Once this is removed, the pin will need to be replaced. I am unfamiliar with where to get a replacement pin. I believe you use a ball pein hammer to shape the new pin. Right? I could definitely use some expert advice on this. I just not much of a metal guy. If I remove this, I will have to replace it will a new one. Where can you find a replacement?

Now this vise is supposed to be a tool. Unlike a plane or chisel where we spent a lot time to admire it, the vise doesn't have to have bunch of shiny surface and subject to close inspection. However, it is mechanical equipment that has moving parts. I can't deform the components where it will affect the functionality.
There are already bunch of different methods mentioned here in LJ on rust removal. For the most part, they all work. Perhaps some methods are better than others. The method that I am familiar with is electrolysis. However, I am interested in the lease amount of work, cost effective and to leave the vise in an acceptable condition. .

I am debating how far I should go in cleaning this vise. Overall rust is not as bad as I thought. I don't think there is any serious pitting. It actually looks pretty decent after the WD40 soaking. Maybe some more WD40 and gentle brushing with a wire brush and scotch brite will do a job. I'll have to think it over. What would you recommend?

Click to expand...

hhhopks said:

Will it turn?

So far so good, there are no surprises. No cracks or breaks. As you recall from my previous blog post the vise will not turn. There is no sense of restoring the vise if you can get to move. So this blog is about getting the screw to turn.
I searched for woodworking Columbian vise information. There don't seem to be much. What I have found so far are mostly pictures and mounting information, but not the details that I am after. Hopefully I am correct in my selection of words in describing the particular parts of the vise. Evidently, there isn't as much focus on woodworking vises verses planes, chisels, and other hand tools. Any links or assistance will be appreciated.

As founded, vise in the fully opened position.

I got the vise positioned (upside down), as viewed from the underside of the workbench. The operation of the vise is pretty simple. Right? You turn the handle and the screw turns. In this vise there is a handle hub in the front. The front jaw moves in and out along with the screw. The back jaw and assembly part is supposed to be anchor to the bench so it is stationary.

You can clearly see that there is a hub cover of some sort toward the back. It has two big screws which I removed to see what's in it. Maybe something in there is keeping the screw from moving. After removal of this cover, it is not apparent what keeps the screw from moving. Now, it is more obvious to me how this quick release works. There is a spring loaded shoe about 1/3 round x 3 inches long with threads to engage the screw. When the groove portion of the screw is at that position, there is no contact. The screw will slide right over shoe. The hub that was removed has no threads on the inside. Anyway, I attempted to turn the screw but it will not move.

Old mechanical part not moving; I dealt with this problem before. A former associate who is a tool & die machinist have suggested WD40 (penetrating oil/lubricant) is the best starting point. After spraying the screws along the mating area, I simply took a break.

After about 15 minutes, I returned and tried to move the screw. It won't move! A little discouraged, I decided to use a dowel to give it a little more leverage. I was turning it by hand. I placed a dowel through the handle hub. Yes, I could feel the screw gives. I proceed to rock the handle back & forth a few more times. I stop and give it another good Wd40 spray. Let it sit for few more minutes. I resume the rocking motion. The screw travels more and more after each rocking cycle.

Will it slide? The groove of the screw has to face up (relative to the actual workbench mounting position). Keep in mind that I have never used a quick release vise before. Yes, I could feel it move. Surprisingly, I could move it quite easily. The vise will slide back & forth. I went back in turning the screw. Oops, is it stuck again? After few minute of messing with the screw, is when I learned, that a quick release vise only turns 315 deg. I did notice that the front face of the vise has stops to limit the handle travel. It never sank in until now. Anyway 315 deg turn it is. I proceed with turning the screw back & forth for each of the screw section to check movement. I spray WD40 as I go. When the front jaw is fully extended, the opening between jaws is 10-1/4 inches. There appears to be nothing wrong with this vise.  Well OK, it is missing a handle.

The vise in the fully closed position.

I do have concerns taking the vice apart. They are:

1. The screw has a pin (cotta pin?) at the end to keep the end plate from coming off. OK, it's no big deal. It has rust. It probably easier to just replace it.
2. The front wise has a nut to hold each guide rod in place. So that should come out easily.
3. This is the part which concerns me the most. The pin at the handle hub. This must be removed for the screw to come off the vise. Once this is removed, the pin will need to be replaced. I am unfamiliar with where to get a replacement pin. I believe you use a ball pein hammer to shape the new pin. Right? I could definitely use some expert advice on this. I just not much of a metal guy. If I remove this, I will have to replace it will a new one. Where can you find a replacement?

Now this vise is supposed to be a tool. Unlike a plane or chisel where we spent a lot time to admire it, the vise doesn't have to have bunch of shiny surface and subject to close inspection. However, it is mechanical equipment that has moving parts. I can't deform the components where it will affect the functionality.
There are already bunch of different methods mentioned here in LJ on rust removal. For the most part, they all work. Perhaps some methods are better than others. The method that I am familiar with is electrolysis. However, I am interested in the lease amount of work, cost effective and to leave the vise in an acceptable condition. .

I am debating how far I should go in cleaning this vise. Overall rust is not as bad as I thought. I don't think there is any serious pitting. It actually looks pretty decent after the WD40 soaking. Maybe some more WD40 and gentle brushing with a wire brush and scotch brite will do a job. I'll have to think it over. What would you recommend?

Click to expand...

hhhopks said:

Will it turn?

So far so good, there are no surprises. No cracks or breaks. As you recall from my previous blog post the vise will not turn. There is no sense of restoring the vise if you can get to move. So this blog is about getting the screw to turn.
I searched for woodworking Columbian vise information. There don't seem to be much. What I have found so far are mostly pictures and mounting information, but not the details that I am after. Hopefully I am correct in my selection of words in describing the particular parts of the vise. Evidently, there isn't as much focus on woodworking vises verses planes, chisels, and other hand tools. Any links or assistance will be appreciated.

As founded, vise in the fully opened position.

I got the vise positioned (upside down), as viewed from the underside of the workbench. The operation of the vise is pretty simple. Right? You turn the handle and the screw turns. In this vise there is a handle hub in the front. The front jaw moves in and out along with the screw. The back jaw and assembly part is supposed to be anchor to the bench so it is stationary.

You can clearly see that there is a hub cover of some sort toward the back. It has two big screws which I removed to see what's in it. Maybe something in there is keeping the screw from moving. After removal of this cover, it is not apparent what keeps the screw from moving. Now, it is more obvious to me how this quick release works. There is a spring loaded shoe about 1/3 round x 3 inches long with threads to engage the screw. When the groove portion of the screw is at that position, there is no contact. The screw will slide right over shoe. The hub that was removed has no threads on the inside. Anyway, I attempted to turn the screw but it will not move.

Old mechanical part not moving; I dealt with this problem before. A former associate who is a tool & die machinist have suggested WD40 (penetrating oil/lubricant) is the best starting point. After spraying the screws along the mating area, I simply took a break.

After about 15 minutes, I returned and tried to move the screw. It won't move! A little discouraged, I decided to use a dowel to give it a little more leverage. I was turning it by hand. I placed a dowel through the handle hub. Yes, I could feel the screw gives. I proceed to rock the handle back & forth a few more times. I stop and give it another good Wd40 spray. Let it sit for few more minutes. I resume the rocking motion. The screw travels more and more after each rocking cycle.

Will it slide? The groove of the screw has to face up (relative to the actual workbench mounting position). Keep in mind that I have never used a quick release vise before. Yes, I could feel it move. Surprisingly, I could move it quite easily. The vise will slide back & forth. I went back in turning the screw. Oops, is it stuck again? After few minute of messing with the screw, is when I learned, that a quick release vise only turns 315 deg. I did notice that the front face of the vise has stops to limit the handle travel. It never sank in until now. Anyway 315 deg turn it is. I proceed with turning the screw back & forth for each of the screw section to check movement. I spray WD40 as I go. When the front jaw is fully extended, the opening between jaws is 10-1/4 inches. There appears to be nothing wrong with this vise.  Well OK, it is missing a handle.

The vise in the fully closed position.

I do have concerns taking the vice apart. They are:

1. The screw has a pin (cotta pin?) at the end to keep the end plate from coming off. OK, it's no big deal. It has rust. It probably easier to just replace it.
2. The front wise has a nut to hold each guide rod in place. So that should come out easily.
3. This is the part which concerns me the most. The pin at the handle hub. This must be removed for the screw to come off the vise. Once this is removed, the pin will need to be replaced. I am unfamiliar with where to get a replacement pin. I believe you use a ball pein hammer to shape the new pin. Right? I could definitely use some expert advice on this. I just not much of a metal guy. If I remove this, I will have to replace it will a new one. Where can you find a replacement?

Now this vise is supposed to be a tool. Unlike a plane or chisel where we spent a lot time to admire it, the vise doesn't have to have bunch of shiny surface and subject to close inspection. However, it is mechanical equipment that has moving parts. I can't deform the components where it will affect the functionality.
There are already bunch of different methods mentioned here in LJ on rust removal. For the most part, they all work. Perhaps some methods are better than others. The method that I am familiar with is electrolysis. However, I am interested in the lease amount of work, cost effective and to leave the vise in an acceptable condition. .

I am debating how far I should go in cleaning this vise. Overall rust is not as bad as I thought. I don't think there is any serious pitting. It actually looks pretty decent after the WD40 soaking. Maybe some more WD40 and gentle brushing with a wire brush and scotch brite will do a job. I'll have to think it over. What would you recommend?

Click to expand...

hhhopks said:

Will it turn?

So far so good, there are no surprises. No cracks or breaks. As you recall from my previous blog post the vise will not turn. There is no sense of restoring the vise if you can get to move. So this blog is about getting the screw to turn.
I searched for woodworking Columbian vise information. There don't seem to be much. What I have found so far are mostly pictures and mounting information, but not the details that I am after. Hopefully I am correct in my selection of words in describing the particular parts of the vise. Evidently, there isn't as much focus on woodworking vises verses planes, chisels, and other hand tools. Any links or assistance will be appreciated.

As founded, vise in the fully opened position.

I got the vise positioned (upside down), as viewed from the underside of the workbench. The operation of the vise is pretty simple. Right? You turn the handle and the screw turns. In this vise there is a handle hub in the front. The front jaw moves in and out along with the screw. The back jaw and assembly part is supposed to be anchor to the bench so it is stationary.

You can clearly see that there is a hub cover of some sort toward the back. It has two big screws which I removed to see what's in it. Maybe something in there is keeping the screw from moving. After removal of this cover, it is not apparent what keeps the screw from moving. Now, it is more obvious to me how this quick release works. There is a spring loaded shoe about 1/3 round x 3 inches long with threads to engage the screw. When the groove portion of the screw is at that position, there is no contact. The screw will slide right over shoe. The hub that was removed has no threads on the inside. Anyway, I attempted to turn the screw but it will not move.

Old mechanical part not moving; I dealt with this problem before. A former associate who is a tool & die machinist have suggested WD40 (penetrating oil/lubricant) is the best starting point. After spraying the screws along the mating area, I simply took a break.

After about 15 minutes, I returned and tried to move the screw. It won't move! A little discouraged, I decided to use a dowel to give it a little more leverage. I was turning it by hand. I placed a dowel through the handle hub. Yes, I could feel the screw gives. I proceed to rock the handle back & forth a few more times. I stop and give it another good Wd40 spray. Let it sit for few more minutes. I resume the rocking motion. The screw travels more and more after each rocking cycle.

Will it slide? The groove of the screw has to face up (relative to the actual workbench mounting position). Keep in mind that I have never used a quick release vise before. Yes, I could feel it move. Surprisingly, I could move it quite easily. The vise will slide back & forth. I went back in turning the screw. Oops, is it stuck again? After few minute of messing with the screw, is when I learned, that a quick release vise only turns 315 deg. I did notice that the front face of the vise has stops to limit the handle travel. It never sank in until now. Anyway 315 deg turn it is. I proceed with turning the screw back & forth for each of the screw section to check movement. I spray WD40 as I go. When the front jaw is fully extended, the opening between jaws is 10-1/4 inches. There appears to be nothing wrong with this vise.  Well OK, it is missing a handle.

The vise in the fully closed position.

I do have concerns taking the vice apart. They are:

1. The screw has a pin (cotta pin?) at the end to keep the end plate from coming off. OK, it's no big deal. It has rust. It probably easier to just replace it.
2. The front wise has a nut to hold each guide rod in place. So that should come out easily.
3. This is the part which concerns me the most. The pin at the handle hub. This must be removed for the screw to come off the vise. Once this is removed, the pin will need to be replaced. I am unfamiliar with where to get a replacement pin. I believe you use a ball pein hammer to shape the new pin. Right? I could definitely use some expert advice on this. I just not much of a metal guy. If I remove this, I will have to replace it will a new one. Where can you find a replacement?

Now this vise is supposed to be a tool. Unlike a plane or chisel where we spent a lot time to admire it, the vise doesn't have to have bunch of shiny surface and subject to close inspection. However, it is mechanical equipment that has moving parts. I can't deform the components where it will affect the functionality.
There are already bunch of different methods mentioned here in LJ on rust removal. For the most part, they all work. Perhaps some methods are better than others. The method that I am familiar with is electrolysis. However, I am interested in the lease amount of work, cost effective and to leave the vise in an acceptable condition. .

I am debating how far I should go in cleaning this vise. Overall rust is not as bad as I thought. I don't think there is any serious pitting. It actually looks pretty decent after the WD40 soaking. Maybe some more WD40 and gentle brushing with a wire brush and scotch brite will do a job. I'll have to think it over. What would you recommend?

Click to expand...

hhhopks said:

Will it turn?

So far so good, there are no surprises. No cracks or breaks. As you recall from my previous blog post the vise will not turn. There is no sense of restoring the vise if you can get to move. So this blog is about getting the screw to turn.
I searched for woodworking Columbian vise information. There don't seem to be much. What I have found so far are mostly pictures and mounting information, but not the details that I am after. Hopefully I am correct in my selection of words in describing the particular parts of the vise. Evidently, there isn't as much focus on woodworking vises verses planes, chisels, and other hand tools. Any links or assistance will be appreciated.

As founded, vise in the fully opened position.

I got the vise positioned (upside down), as viewed from the underside of the workbench. The operation of the vise is pretty simple. Right? You turn the handle and the screw turns. In this vise there is a handle hub in the front. The front jaw moves in and out along with the screw. The back jaw and assembly part is supposed to be anchor to the bench so it is stationary.

You can clearly see that there is a hub cover of some sort toward the back. It has two big screws which I removed to see what's in it. Maybe something in there is keeping the screw from moving. After removal of this cover, it is not apparent what keeps the screw from moving. Now, it is more obvious to me how this quick release works. There is a spring loaded shoe about 1/3 round x 3 inches long with threads to engage the screw. When the groove portion of the screw is at that position, there is no contact. The screw will slide right over shoe. The hub that was removed has no threads on the inside. Anyway, I attempted to turn the screw but it will not move.

Old mechanical part not moving; I dealt with this problem before. A former associate who is a tool & die machinist have suggested WD40 (penetrating oil/lubricant) is the best starting point. After spraying the screws along the mating area, I simply took a break.

After about 15 minutes, I returned and tried to move the screw. It won't move! A little discouraged, I decided to use a dowel to give it a little more leverage. I was turning it by hand. I placed a dowel through the handle hub. Yes, I could feel the screw gives. I proceed to rock the handle back & forth a few more times. I stop and give it another good Wd40 spray. Let it sit for few more minutes. I resume the rocking motion. The screw travels more and more after each rocking cycle.

Will it slide? The groove of the screw has to face up (relative to the actual workbench mounting position). Keep in mind that I have never used a quick release vise before. Yes, I could feel it move. Surprisingly, I could move it quite easily. The vise will slide back & forth. I went back in turning the screw. Oops, is it stuck again? After few minute of messing with the screw, is when I learned, that a quick release vise only turns 315 deg. I did notice that the front face of the vise has stops to limit the handle travel. It never sank in until now. Anyway 315 deg turn it is. I proceed with turning the screw back & forth for each of the screw section to check movement. I spray WD40 as I go. When the front jaw is fully extended, the opening between jaws is 10-1/4 inches. There appears to be nothing wrong with this vise.  Well OK, it is missing a handle.

The vise in the fully closed position.

I do have concerns taking the vice apart. They are:

1. The screw has a pin (cotta pin?) at the end to keep the end plate from coming off. OK, it's no big deal. It has rust. It probably easier to just replace it.
2. The front wise has a nut to hold each guide rod in place. So that should come out easily.
3. This is the part which concerns me the most. The pin at the handle hub. This must be removed for the screw to come off the vise. Once this is removed, the pin will need to be replaced. I am unfamiliar with where to get a replacement pin. I believe you use a ball pein hammer to shape the new pin. Right? I could definitely use some expert advice on this. I just not much of a metal guy. If I remove this, I will have to replace it will a new one. Where can you find a replacement?

Now this vise is supposed to be a tool. Unlike a plane or chisel where we spent a lot time to admire it, the vise doesn't have to have bunch of shiny surface and subject to close inspection. However, it is mechanical equipment that has moving parts. I can't deform the components where it will affect the functionality.
There are already bunch of different methods mentioned here in LJ on rust removal. For the most part, they all work. Perhaps some methods are better than others. The method that I am familiar with is electrolysis. However, I am interested in the lease amount of work, cost effective and to leave the vise in an acceptable condition. .

I am debating how far I should go in cleaning this vise. Overall rust is not as bad as I thought. I don't think there is any serious pitting. It actually looks pretty decent after the WD40 soaking. Maybe some more WD40 and gentle brushing with a wire brush and scotch brite will do a job. I'll have to think it over. What would you recommend?

Click to expand...

hhhopks said:

Will it turn?

So far so good, there are no surprises. No cracks or breaks. As you recall from my previous blog post the vise will not turn. There is no sense of restoring the vise if you can get to move. So this blog is about getting the screw to turn.
I searched for woodworking Columbian vise information. There don't seem to be much. What I have found so far are mostly pictures and mounting information, but not the details that I am after. Hopefully I am correct in my selection of words in describing the particular parts of the vise. Evidently, there isn't as much focus on woodworking vises verses planes, chisels, and other hand tools. Any links or assistance will be appreciated.

As founded, vise in the fully opened position.

I got the vise positioned (upside down), as viewed from the underside of the workbench. The operation of the vise is pretty simple. Right? You turn the handle and the screw turns. In this vise there is a handle hub in the front. The front jaw moves in and out along with the screw. The back jaw and assembly part is supposed to be anchor to the bench so it is stationary.

You can clearly see that there is a hub cover of some sort toward the back. It has two big screws which I removed to see what's in it. Maybe something in there is keeping the screw from moving. After removal of this cover, it is not apparent what keeps the screw from moving. Now, it is more obvious to me how this quick release works. There is a spring loaded shoe about 1/3 round x 3 inches long with threads to engage the screw. When the groove portion of the screw is at that position, there is no contact. The screw will slide right over shoe. The hub that was removed has no threads on the inside. Anyway, I attempted to turn the screw but it will not move.

Old mechanical part not moving; I dealt with this problem before. A former associate who is a tool & die machinist have suggested WD40 (penetrating oil/lubricant) is the best starting point. After spraying the screws along the mating area, I simply took a break.

After about 15 minutes, I returned and tried to move the screw. It won't move! A little discouraged, I decided to use a dowel to give it a little more leverage. I was turning it by hand. I placed a dowel through the handle hub. Yes, I could feel the screw gives. I proceed to rock the handle back & forth a few more times. I stop and give it another good Wd40 spray. Let it sit for few more minutes. I resume the rocking motion. The screw travels more and more after each rocking cycle.

Will it slide? The groove of the screw has to face up (relative to the actual workbench mounting position). Keep in mind that I have never used a quick release vise before. Yes, I could feel it move. Surprisingly, I could move it quite easily. The vise will slide back & forth. I went back in turning the screw. Oops, is it stuck again? After few minute of messing with the screw, is when I learned, that a quick release vise only turns 315 deg. I did notice that the front face of the vise has stops to limit the handle travel. It never sank in until now. Anyway 315 deg turn it is. I proceed with turning the screw back & forth for each of the screw section to check movement. I spray WD40 as I go. When the front jaw is fully extended, the opening between jaws is 10-1/4 inches. There appears to be nothing wrong with this vise.  Well OK, it is missing a handle.

The vise in the fully closed position.

I do have concerns taking the vice apart. They are:

1. The screw has a pin (cotta pin?) at the end to keep the end plate from coming off. OK, it's no big deal. It has rust. It probably easier to just replace it.
2. The front wise has a nut to hold each guide rod in place. So that should come out easily.
3. This is the part which concerns me the most. The pin at the handle hub. This must be removed for the screw to come off the vise. Once this is removed, the pin will need to be replaced. I am unfamiliar with where to get a replacement pin. I believe you use a ball pein hammer to shape the new pin. Right? I could definitely use some expert advice on this. I just not much of a metal guy. If I remove this, I will have to replace it will a new one. Where can you find a replacement?

Now this vise is supposed to be a tool. Unlike a plane or chisel where we spent a lot time to admire it, the vise doesn't have to have bunch of shiny surface and subject to close inspection. However, it is mechanical equipment that has moving parts. I can't deform the components where it will affect the functionality.
There are already bunch of different methods mentioned here in LJ on rust removal. For the most part, they all work. Perhaps some methods are better than others. The method that I am familiar with is electrolysis. However, I am interested in the lease amount of work, cost effective and to leave the vise in an acceptable condition. .

I am debating how far I should go in cleaning this vise. Overall rust is not as bad as I thought. I don't think there is any serious pitting. It actually looks pretty decent after the WD40 soaking. Maybe some more WD40 and gentle brushing with a wire brush and scotch brite will do a job. I'll have to think it over. What would you recommend?

Click to expand...

hhhopks said:

Will it turn?

So far so good, there are no surprises. No cracks or breaks. As you recall from my previous blog post the vise will not turn. There is no sense of restoring the vise if you can get to move. So this blog is about getting the screw to turn.
I searched for woodworking Columbian vise information. There don't seem to be much. What I have found so far are mostly pictures and mounting information, but not the details that I am after. Hopefully I am correct in my selection of words in describing the particular parts of the vise. Evidently, there isn't as much focus on woodworking vises verses planes, chisels, and other hand tools. Any links or assistance will be appreciated.

As founded, vise in the fully opened position.

I got the vise positioned (upside down), as viewed from the underside of the workbench. The operation of the vise is pretty simple. Right? You turn the handle and the screw turns. In this vise there is a handle hub in the front. The front jaw moves in and out along with the screw. The back jaw and assembly part is supposed to be anchor to the bench so it is stationary.

You can clearly see that there is a hub cover of some sort toward the back. It has two big screws which I removed to see what's in it. Maybe something in there is keeping the screw from moving. After removal of this cover, it is not apparent what keeps the screw from moving. Now, it is more obvious to me how this quick release works. There is a spring loaded shoe about 1/3 round x 3 inches long with threads to engage the screw. When the groove portion of the screw is at that position, there is no contact. The screw will slide right over shoe. The hub that was removed has no threads on the inside. Anyway, I attempted to turn the screw but it will not move.

Old mechanical part not moving; I dealt with this problem before. A former associate who is a tool & die machinist have suggested WD40 (penetrating oil/lubricant) is the best starting point. After spraying the screws along the mating area, I simply took a break.

After about 15 minutes, I returned and tried to move the screw. It won't move! A little discouraged, I decided to use a dowel to give it a little more leverage. I was turning it by hand. I placed a dowel through the handle hub. Yes, I could feel the screw gives. I proceed to rock the handle back & forth a few more times. I stop and give it another good Wd40 spray. Let it sit for few more minutes. I resume the rocking motion. The screw travels more and more after each rocking cycle.

Will it slide? The groove of the screw has to face up (relative to the actual workbench mounting position). Keep in mind that I have never used a quick release vise before. Yes, I could feel it move. Surprisingly, I could move it quite easily. The vise will slide back & forth. I went back in turning the screw. Oops, is it stuck again? After few minute of messing with the screw, is when I learned, that a quick release vise only turns 315 deg. I did notice that the front face of the vise has stops to limit the handle travel. It never sank in until now. Anyway 315 deg turn it is. I proceed with turning the screw back & forth for each of the screw section to check movement. I spray WD40 as I go. When the front jaw is fully extended, the opening between jaws is 10-1/4 inches. There appears to be nothing wrong with this vise.  Well OK, it is missing a handle.

The vise in the fully closed position.

I do have concerns taking the vice apart. They are:

1. The screw has a pin (cotta pin?) at the end to keep the end plate from coming off. OK, it's no big deal. It has rust. It probably easier to just replace it.
2. The front wise has a nut to hold each guide rod in place. So that should come out easily.
3. This is the part which concerns me the most. The pin at the handle hub. This must be removed for the screw to come off the vise. Once this is removed, the pin will need to be replaced. I am unfamiliar with where to get a replacement pin. I believe you use a ball pein hammer to shape the new pin. Right? I could definitely use some expert advice on this. I just not much of a metal guy. If I remove this, I will have to replace it will a new one. Where can you find a replacement?

Now this vise is supposed to be a tool. Unlike a plane or chisel where we spent a lot time to admire it, the vise doesn't have to have bunch of shiny surface and subject to close inspection. However, it is mechanical equipment that has moving parts. I can't deform the components where it will affect the functionality.
There are already bunch of different methods mentioned here in LJ on rust removal. For the most part, they all work. Perhaps some methods are better than others. The method that I am familiar with is electrolysis. However, I am interested in the lease amount of work, cost effective and to leave the vise in an acceptable condition. .

I am debating how far I should go in cleaning this vise. Overall rust is not as bad as I thought. I don't think there is any serious pitting. It actually looks pretty decent after the WD40 soaking. Maybe some more WD40 and gentle brushing with a wire brush and scotch brite will do a job. I'll have to think it over. What would you recommend?

Click to expand...

hhhopks said:

Will it turn?

So far so good, there are no surprises. No cracks or breaks. As you recall from my previous blog post the vise will not turn. There is no sense of restoring the vise if you can get to move. So this blog is about getting the screw to turn.
I searched for woodworking Columbian vise information. There don't seem to be much. What I have found so far are mostly pictures and mounting information, but not the details that I am after. Hopefully I am correct in my selection of words in describing the particular parts of the vise. Evidently, there isn't as much focus on woodworking vises verses planes, chisels, and other hand tools. Any links or assistance will be appreciated.

As founded, vise in the fully opened position.

I got the vise positioned (upside down), as viewed from the underside of the workbench. The operation of the vise is pretty simple. Right? You turn the handle and the screw turns. In this vise there is a handle hub in the front. The front jaw moves in and out along with the screw. The back jaw and assembly part is supposed to be anchor to the bench so it is stationary.

You can clearly see that there is a hub cover of some sort toward the back. It has two big screws which I removed to see what's in it. Maybe something in there is keeping the screw from moving. After removal of this cover, it is not apparent what keeps the screw from moving. Now, it is more obvious to me how this quick release works. There is a spring loaded shoe about 1/3 round x 3 inches long with threads to engage the screw. When the groove portion of the screw is at that position, there is no contact. The screw will slide right over shoe. The hub that was removed has no threads on the inside. Anyway, I attempted to turn the screw but it will not move.

Old mechanical part not moving; I dealt with this problem before. A former associate who is a tool & die machinist have suggested WD40 (penetrating oil/lubricant) is the best starting point. After spraying the screws along the mating area, I simply took a break.

After about 15 minutes, I returned and tried to move the screw. It won't move! A little discouraged, I decided to use a dowel to give it a little more leverage. I was turning it by hand. I placed a dowel through the handle hub. Yes, I could feel the screw gives. I proceed to rock the handle back & forth a few more times. I stop and give it another good Wd40 spray. Let it sit for few more minutes. I resume the rocking motion. The screw travels more and more after each rocking cycle.

Will it slide? The groove of the screw has to face up (relative to the actual workbench mounting position). Keep in mind that I have never used a quick release vise before. Yes, I could feel it move. Surprisingly, I could move it quite easily. The vise will slide back & forth. I went back in turning the screw. Oops, is it stuck again? After few minute of messing with the screw, is when I learned, that a quick release vise only turns 315 deg. I did notice that the front face of the vise has stops to limit the handle travel. It never sank in until now. Anyway 315 deg turn it is. I proceed with turning the screw back & forth for each of the screw section to check movement. I spray WD40 as I go. When the front jaw is fully extended, the opening between jaws is 10-1/4 inches. There appears to be nothing wrong with this vise.  Well OK, it is missing a handle.

The vise in the fully closed position.

I do have concerns taking the vice apart. They are:

1. The screw has a pin (cotta pin?) at the end to keep the end plate from coming off. OK, it's no big deal. It has rust. It probably easier to just replace it.
2. The front wise has a nut to hold each guide rod in place. So that should come out easily.
3. This is the part which concerns me the most. The pin at the handle hub. This must be removed for the screw to come off the vise. Once this is removed, the pin will need to be replaced. I am unfamiliar with where to get a replacement pin. I believe you use a ball pein hammer to shape the new pin. Right? I could definitely use some expert advice on this. I just not much of a metal guy. If I remove this, I will have to replace it will a new one. Where can you find a replacement?

Now this vise is supposed to be a tool. Unlike a plane or chisel where we spent a lot time to admire it, the vise doesn't have to have bunch of shiny surface and subject to close inspection. However, it is mechanical equipment that has moving parts. I can't deform the components where it will affect the functionality.
There are already bunch of different methods mentioned here in LJ on rust removal. For the most part, they all work. Perhaps some methods are better than others. The method that I am familiar with is electrolysis. However, I am interested in the lease amount of work, cost effective and to leave the vise in an acceptable condition. .

I am debating how far I should go in cleaning this vise. Overall rust is not as bad as I thought. I don't think there is any serious pitting. It actually looks pretty decent after the WD40 soaking. Maybe some more WD40 and gentle brushing with a wire brush and scotch brite will do a job. I'll have to think it over. What would you recommend?

Click to expand...

hhhopks said:

Will it turn?

So far so good, there are no surprises. No cracks or breaks. As you recall from my previous blog post the vise will not turn. There is no sense of restoring the vise if you can get to move. So this blog is about getting the screw to turn.
I searched for woodworking Columbian vise information. There don't seem to be much. What I have found so far are mostly pictures and mounting information, but not the details that I am after. Hopefully I am correct in my selection of words in describing the particular parts of the vise. Evidently, there isn't as much focus on woodworking vises verses planes, chisels, and other hand tools. Any links or assistance will be appreciated.

As founded, vise in the fully opened position.

I got the vise positioned (upside down), as viewed from the underside of the workbench. The operation of the vise is pretty simple. Right? You turn the handle and the screw turns. In this vise there is a handle hub in the front. The front jaw moves in and out along with the screw. The back jaw and assembly part is supposed to be anchor to the bench so it is stationary.

You can clearly see that there is a hub cover of some sort toward the back. It has two big screws which I removed to see what's in it. Maybe something in there is keeping the screw from moving. After removal of this cover, it is not apparent what keeps the screw from moving. Now, it is more obvious to me how this quick release works. There is a spring loaded shoe about 1/3 round x 3 inches long with threads to engage the screw. When the groove portion of the screw is at that position, there is no contact. The screw will slide right over shoe. The hub that was removed has no threads on the inside. Anyway, I attempted to turn the screw but it will not move.

Old mechanical part not moving; I dealt with this problem before. A former associate who is a tool & die machinist have suggested WD40 (penetrating oil/lubricant) is the best starting point. After spraying the screws along the mating area, I simply took a break.

After about 15 minutes, I returned and tried to move the screw. It won't move! A little discouraged, I decided to use a dowel to give it a little more leverage. I was turning it by hand. I placed a dowel through the handle hub. Yes, I could feel the screw gives. I proceed to rock the handle back & forth a few more times. I stop and give it another good Wd40 spray. Let it sit for few more minutes. I resume the rocking motion. The screw travels more and more after each rocking cycle.

Will it slide? The groove of the screw has to face up (relative to the actual workbench mounting position). Keep in mind that I have never used a quick release vise before. Yes, I could feel it move. Surprisingly, I could move it quite easily. The vise will slide back & forth. I went back in turning the screw. Oops, is it stuck again? After few minute of messing with the screw, is when I learned, that a quick release vise only turns 315 deg. I did notice that the front face of the vise has stops to limit the handle travel. It never sank in until now. Anyway 315 deg turn it is. I proceed with turning the screw back & forth for each of the screw section to check movement. I spray WD40 as I go. When the front jaw is fully extended, the opening between jaws is 10-1/4 inches. There appears to be nothing wrong with this vise.  Well OK, it is missing a handle.

The vise in the fully closed position.

I do have concerns taking the vice apart. They are:

1. The screw has a pin (cotta pin?) at the end to keep the end plate from coming off. OK, it's no big deal. It has rust. It probably easier to just replace it.
2. The front wise has a nut to hold each guide rod in place. So that should come out easily.
3. This is the part which concerns me the most. The pin at the handle hub. This must be removed for the screw to come off the vise. Once this is removed, the pin will need to be replaced. I am unfamiliar with where to get a replacement pin. I believe you use a ball pein hammer to shape the new pin. Right? I could definitely use some expert advice on this. I just not much of a metal guy. If I remove this, I will have to replace it will a new one. Where can you find a replacement?

Now this vise is supposed to be a tool. Unlike a plane or chisel where we spent a lot time to admire it, the vise doesn't have to have bunch of shiny surface and subject to close inspection. However, it is mechanical equipment that has moving parts. I can't deform the components where it will affect the functionality.
There are already bunch of different methods mentioned here in LJ on rust removal. For the most part, they all work. Perhaps some methods are better than others. The method that I am familiar with is electrolysis. However, I am interested in the lease amount of work, cost effective and to leave the vise in an acceptable condition. .

I am debating how far I should go in cleaning this vise. Overall rust is not as bad as I thought. I don't think there is any serious pitting. It actually looks pretty decent after the WD40 soaking. Maybe some more WD40 and gentle brushing with a wire brush and scotch brite will do a job. I'll have to think it over. What would you recommend?

Click to expand...

Disassemble, remove rust from guide rods and threads of screw. Wipe down with your favorite "anti-rust" compound. Reassemble and mount to bench. Don t forget to put new hardwood pads between the cast jaws.

- ksSlim

Click to expand...

hhhopks said:

Disassembly, Rust Removal & Cleaning

This is part of III of the blog series where the vise is disassembled and cleaned.

Disassembly:
I would like to take the vise apart, however it looks like I have to take a compromise. I decided to disassemble the vise as much possible. Once the pin at the rear of the vise was tapped out, I was able to tap the rear guide plate out.

Once that is out, the back jaw assembly slides out easily. Now you could clearly see the threaded shoe. I also noticed there is a spring on the front end of the shoe. Surprisingly it was a simple nail that was used as a guide for the spring to hold everything in place.

Since I can't readily replace the pin on the hub of handle, the main screw and handle of the hub portion were left intact to the front jaw assembly.

I tried loosening the nuts of the guide rods. Unfortunately the entire rod turns as well. I was tempted to put a channel lock on the guide rod, but decided that I don't want to take a chance of damaging it. The guide rods were left attached with front jaw assembly same as the main screw. I elected not to do the spring and nail as I didn't see any rust on it.

I didn't make any more effort in disassembly beyond this point.

Rust Removal:

I have chosen electrolysis as my method of removing rust. There are plenty of posts on this topic, so I won't repeat it here. The materials that I gather included:

1. 12 Vdc charger with leads.
2. Plastic concrete mixing tub (holds about 9 gallon & will fit a size 8 plane in it).
3. Miscellaneous strained copper wires (#10 to #16 awg).
4. Measuring spoon.
5. Washing soda.

I already have these materials so I didn't have to spend anything. The wires that I have were previously used on other rust removal projects. Some has little clamps on them. I could only use it on the shoe, pin, and the rear guide plate. For the rest of the vise components, I simply tightly wrap bare wires around the metal (not the best method but seems to be adequate). The vise components are hooked up to the negative lead while the sacrificial metal (short piece of rebar) is hook up to the positive lead of the charger (off). Oh yea, you really should do this in a well-ventilated area. The process generates hydrogen gas.

Not certain of the capacity of my charger and with limited wires, I elected to do task in several batches. I started with the front jaw assembly with the guide rods and main screw. I also included the shoe in the first batch. I got everything wire up and placed in the tub before adding the water. Because of the height of the front jaw, I have to fill it all the way up. The top portion of the jaw is sticking out just a bit, so I carefully top it off without to avoid clean up the mess. Next, I sprinkled the washing soda (little over 1 tea spoon per gallon) over the tub. It was definitely not a scientific measurement. Water was steered to ensure the washing soda dissolves, and turn power on for the charger. A minute or so I can see little bubbles rising from the metal parts.

I really don't have a method to gauge how much time is needed. I would think it is a combination of voltage, current, metal surface area, concentration of the electrolyte, and the surface area of the sacrificial metal. It is too complicated for me. I did notice that the rate of bubble rising is fairly frequent even after 12 hours, so I elected to wait it out. After the rising bubbles have subsided the components were removed and wire brushed to remove the black looking residue. Scrub, scrub, scrub, scrub….. rinse, rinse,rinse….. Now the screw was a challenge. I scrub the screw along the spiral of the threads. More scrub/rinse/scrub/rinse……….

I used a heat gun to dry the front jaw with the threaded and guide rods. You can clearly see a lite rust forming as the parts are being dry! I have seen this before when cleaning planes. After drying it I spray the entire surface with WD40. I use scotchbrite to scrub additional surface that seems to be more stubborn. I found a few burs on the vise and use a file gently filed it away. Overall it went pretty well. The threaded rod and guide rods shine quite well.

Basically I repeated the process for the remaining batches. It was really uneventful.Here are what the components look like after it has been cleaned.

I am concern about the burr marks on the main screw. It appears to be from the shoe. There is really no way of removing it. Is it part of the flaw in the design of this quick release vise? We'll have to wait on how it may impact on the functionality.

Overall, it looked pretty good.

I'll need to start thinking about the paint job. The original paint (now look "Gray") actually doesn't look bad. There are no flakes or chips. However, I think a fresh coat of paint would be good. Especially for the back jaw and the rear guide plate.

Click to expand...

hhhopks said:

Disassembly, Rust Removal & Cleaning

This is part of III of the blog series where the vise is disassembled and cleaned.

Disassembly:
I would like to take the vise apart, however it looks like I have to take a compromise. I decided to disassemble the vise as much possible. Once the pin at the rear of the vise was tapped out, I was able to tap the rear guide plate out.

Once that is out, the back jaw assembly slides out easily. Now you could clearly see the threaded shoe. I also noticed there is a spring on the front end of the shoe. Surprisingly it was a simple nail that was used as a guide for the spring to hold everything in place.

Since I can't readily replace the pin on the hub of handle, the main screw and handle of the hub portion were left intact to the front jaw assembly.

I tried loosening the nuts of the guide rods. Unfortunately the entire rod turns as well. I was tempted to put a channel lock on the guide rod, but decided that I don't want to take a chance of damaging it. The guide rods were left attached with front jaw assembly same as the main screw. I elected not to do the spring and nail as I didn't see any rust on it.

I didn't make any more effort in disassembly beyond this point.

Rust Removal:

I have chosen electrolysis as my method of removing rust. There are plenty of posts on this topic, so I won't repeat it here. The materials that I gather included:

1. 12 Vdc charger with leads.
2. Plastic concrete mixing tub (holds about 9 gallon & will fit a size 8 plane in it).
3. Miscellaneous strained copper wires (#10 to #16 awg).
4. Measuring spoon.
5. Washing soda.

I already have these materials so I didn't have to spend anything. The wires that I have were previously used on other rust removal projects. Some has little clamps on them. I could only use it on the shoe, pin, and the rear guide plate. For the rest of the vise components, I simply tightly wrap bare wires around the metal (not the best method but seems to be adequate). The vise components are hooked up to the negative lead while the sacrificial metal (short piece of rebar) is hook up to the positive lead of the charger (off). Oh yea, you really should do this in a well-ventilated area. The process generates hydrogen gas.

Not certain of the capacity of my charger and with limited wires, I elected to do task in several batches. I started with the front jaw assembly with the guide rods and main screw. I also included the shoe in the first batch. I got everything wire up and placed in the tub before adding the water. Because of the height of the front jaw, I have to fill it all the way up. The top portion of the jaw is sticking out just a bit, so I carefully top it off without to avoid clean up the mess. Next, I sprinkled the washing soda (little over 1 tea spoon per gallon) over the tub. It was definitely not a scientific measurement. Water was steered to ensure the washing soda dissolves, and turn power on for the charger. A minute or so I can see little bubbles rising from the metal parts.

I really don't have a method to gauge how much time is needed. I would think it is a combination of voltage, current, metal surface area, concentration of the electrolyte, and the surface area of the sacrificial metal. It is too complicated for me. I did notice that the rate of bubble rising is fairly frequent even after 12 hours, so I elected to wait it out. After the rising bubbles have subsided the components were removed and wire brushed to remove the black looking residue. Scrub, scrub, scrub, scrub….. rinse, rinse,rinse….. Now the screw was a challenge. I scrub the screw along the spiral of the threads. More scrub/rinse/scrub/rinse……….

I used a heat gun to dry the front jaw with the threaded and guide rods. You can clearly see a lite rust forming as the parts are being dry! I have seen this before when cleaning planes. After drying it I spray the entire surface with WD40. I use scotchbrite to scrub additional surface that seems to be more stubborn. I found a few burs on the vise and use a file gently filed it away. Overall it went pretty well. The threaded rod and guide rods shine quite well.

Basically I repeated the process for the remaining batches. It was really uneventful.Here are what the components look like after it has been cleaned.

I am concern about the burr marks on the main screw. It appears to be from the shoe. There is really no way of removing it. Is it part of the flaw in the design of this quick release vise? We'll have to wait on how it may impact on the functionality.

Overall, it looked pretty good.

I'll need to start thinking about the paint job. The original paint (now look "Gray") actually doesn't look bad. There are no flakes or chips. However, I think a fresh coat of paint would be good. Especially for the back jaw and the rear guide plate.

Click to expand...

hhhopks said:

Disassembly, Rust Removal & Cleaning

This is part of III of the blog series where the vise is disassembled and cleaned.

Disassembly:
I would like to take the vise apart, however it looks like I have to take a compromise. I decided to disassemble the vise as much possible. Once the pin at the rear of the vise was tapped out, I was able to tap the rear guide plate out.

Once that is out, the back jaw assembly slides out easily. Now you could clearly see the threaded shoe. I also noticed there is a spring on the front end of the shoe. Surprisingly it was a simple nail that was used as a guide for the spring to hold everything in place.

Since I can't readily replace the pin on the hub of handle, the main screw and handle of the hub portion were left intact to the front jaw assembly.

I tried loosening the nuts of the guide rods. Unfortunately the entire rod turns as well. I was tempted to put a channel lock on the guide rod, but decided that I don't want to take a chance of damaging it. The guide rods were left attached with front jaw assembly same as the main screw. I elected not to do the spring and nail as I didn't see any rust on it.

I didn't make any more effort in disassembly beyond this point.

Rust Removal:

I have chosen electrolysis as my method of removing rust. There are plenty of posts on this topic, so I won't repeat it here. The materials that I gather included:

1. 12 Vdc charger with leads.
2. Plastic concrete mixing tub (holds about 9 gallon & will fit a size 8 plane in it).
3. Miscellaneous strained copper wires (#10 to #16 awg).
4. Measuring spoon.
5. Washing soda.

I already have these materials so I didn't have to spend anything. The wires that I have were previously used on other rust removal projects. Some has little clamps on them. I could only use it on the shoe, pin, and the rear guide plate. For the rest of the vise components, I simply tightly wrap bare wires around the metal (not the best method but seems to be adequate). The vise components are hooked up to the negative lead while the sacrificial metal (short piece of rebar) is hook up to the positive lead of the charger (off). Oh yea, you really should do this in a well-ventilated area. The process generates hydrogen gas.

Not certain of the capacity of my charger and with limited wires, I elected to do task in several batches. I started with the front jaw assembly with the guide rods and main screw. I also included the shoe in the first batch. I got everything wire up and placed in the tub before adding the water. Because of the height of the front jaw, I have to fill it all the way up. The top portion of the jaw is sticking out just a bit, so I carefully top it off without to avoid clean up the mess. Next, I sprinkled the washing soda (little over 1 tea spoon per gallon) over the tub. It was definitely not a scientific measurement. Water was steered to ensure the washing soda dissolves, and turn power on for the charger. A minute or so I can see little bubbles rising from the metal parts.

I really don't have a method to gauge how much time is needed. I would think it is a combination of voltage, current, metal surface area, concentration of the electrolyte, and the surface area of the sacrificial metal. It is too complicated for me. I did notice that the rate of bubble rising is fairly frequent even after 12 hours, so I elected to wait it out. After the rising bubbles have subsided the components were removed and wire brushed to remove the black looking residue. Scrub, scrub, scrub, scrub….. rinse, rinse,rinse….. Now the screw was a challenge. I scrub the screw along the spiral of the threads. More scrub/rinse/scrub/rinse……….

I used a heat gun to dry the front jaw with the threaded and guide rods. You can clearly see a lite rust forming as the parts are being dry! I have seen this before when cleaning planes. After drying it I spray the entire surface with WD40. I use scotchbrite to scrub additional surface that seems to be more stubborn. I found a few burs on the vise and use a file gently filed it away. Overall it went pretty well. The threaded rod and guide rods shine quite well.

Basically I repeated the process for the remaining batches. It was really uneventful.Here are what the components look like after it has been cleaned.

I am concern about the burr marks on the main screw. It appears to be from the shoe. There is really no way of removing it. Is it part of the flaw in the design of this quick release vise? We'll have to wait on how it may impact on the functionality.

Overall, it looked pretty good.

I'll need to start thinking about the paint job. The original paint (now look "Gray") actually doesn't look bad. There are no flakes or chips. However, I think a fresh coat of paint would be good. Especially for the back jaw and the rear guide plate.

Click to expand...

hhhopks said:

Disassembly, Rust Removal & Cleaning

This is part of III of the blog series where the vise is disassembled and cleaned.

Disassembly:
I would like to take the vise apart, however it looks like I have to take a compromise. I decided to disassemble the vise as much possible. Once the pin at the rear of the vise was tapped out, I was able to tap the rear guide plate out.

Once that is out, the back jaw assembly slides out easily. Now you could clearly see the threaded shoe. I also noticed there is a spring on the front end of the shoe. Surprisingly it was a simple nail that was used as a guide for the spring to hold everything in place.

Since I can't readily replace the pin on the hub of handle, the main screw and handle of the hub portion were left intact to the front jaw assembly.

I tried loosening the nuts of the guide rods. Unfortunately the entire rod turns as well. I was tempted to put a channel lock on the guide rod, but decided that I don't want to take a chance of damaging it. The guide rods were left attached with front jaw assembly same as the main screw. I elected not to do the spring and nail as I didn't see any rust on it.

I didn't make any more effort in disassembly beyond this point.

Rust Removal:

I have chosen electrolysis as my method of removing rust. There are plenty of posts on this topic, so I won't repeat it here. The materials that I gather included:

1. 12 Vdc charger with leads.
2. Plastic concrete mixing tub (holds about 9 gallon & will fit a size 8 plane in it).
3. Miscellaneous strained copper wires (#10 to #16 awg).
4. Measuring spoon.
5. Washing soda.

I already have these materials so I didn't have to spend anything. The wires that I have were previously used on other rust removal projects. Some has little clamps on them. I could only use it on the shoe, pin, and the rear guide plate. For the rest of the vise components, I simply tightly wrap bare wires around the metal (not the best method but seems to be adequate). The vise components are hooked up to the negative lead while the sacrificial metal (short piece of rebar) is hook up to the positive lead of the charger (off). Oh yea, you really should do this in a well-ventilated area. The process generates hydrogen gas.

Not certain of the capacity of my charger and with limited wires, I elected to do task in several batches. I started with the front jaw assembly with the guide rods and main screw. I also included the shoe in the first batch. I got everything wire up and placed in the tub before adding the water. Because of the height of the front jaw, I have to fill it all the way up. The top portion of the jaw is sticking out just a bit, so I carefully top it off without to avoid clean up the mess. Next, I sprinkled the washing soda (little over 1 tea spoon per gallon) over the tub. It was definitely not a scientific measurement. Water was steered to ensure the washing soda dissolves, and turn power on for the charger. A minute or so I can see little bubbles rising from the metal parts.

I really don't have a method to gauge how much time is needed. I would think it is a combination of voltage, current, metal surface area, concentration of the electrolyte, and the surface area of the sacrificial metal. It is too complicated for me. I did notice that the rate of bubble rising is fairly frequent even after 12 hours, so I elected to wait it out. After the rising bubbles have subsided the components were removed and wire brushed to remove the black looking residue. Scrub, scrub, scrub, scrub….. rinse, rinse,rinse….. Now the screw was a challenge. I scrub the screw along the spiral of the threads. More scrub/rinse/scrub/rinse……….

I used a heat gun to dry the front jaw with the threaded and guide rods. You can clearly see a lite rust forming as the parts are being dry! I have seen this before when cleaning planes. After drying it I spray the entire surface with WD40. I use scotchbrite to scrub additional surface that seems to be more stubborn. I found a few burs on the vise and use a file gently filed it away. Overall it went pretty well. The threaded rod and guide rods shine quite well.

Basically I repeated the process for the remaining batches. It was really uneventful.Here are what the components look like after it has been cleaned.

I am concern about the burr marks on the main screw. It appears to be from the shoe. There is really no way of removing it. Is it part of the flaw in the design of this quick release vise? We'll have to wait on how it may impact on the functionality.

Overall, it looked pretty good.

I'll need to start thinking about the paint job. The original paint (now look "Gray") actually doesn't look bad. There are no flakes or chips. However, I think a fresh coat of paint would be good. Especially for the back jaw and the rear guide plate.

Click to expand...

hhhopks said:

Disassembly, Rust Removal & Cleaning

This is part of III of the blog series where the vise is disassembled and cleaned.

Disassembly:
I would like to take the vise apart, however it looks like I have to take a compromise. I decided to disassemble the vise as much possible. Once the pin at the rear of the vise was tapped out, I was able to tap the rear guide plate out.

Once that is out, the back jaw assembly slides out easily. Now you could clearly see the threaded shoe. I also noticed there is a spring on the front end of the shoe. Surprisingly it was a simple nail that was used as a guide for the spring to hold everything in place.

Since I can't readily replace the pin on the hub of handle, the main screw and handle of the hub portion were left intact to the front jaw assembly.

I tried loosening the nuts of the guide rods. Unfortunately the entire rod turns as well. I was tempted to put a channel lock on the guide rod, but decided that I don't want to take a chance of damaging it. The guide rods were left attached with front jaw assembly same as the main screw. I elected not to do the spring and nail as I didn't see any rust on it.

I didn't make any more effort in disassembly beyond this point.

Rust Removal:

I have chosen electrolysis as my method of removing rust. There are plenty of posts on this topic, so I won't repeat it here. The materials that I gather included:

1. 12 Vdc charger with leads.
2. Plastic concrete mixing tub (holds about 9 gallon & will fit a size 8 plane in it).
3. Miscellaneous strained copper wires (#10 to #16 awg).
4. Measuring spoon.
5. Washing soda.

I already have these materials so I didn't have to spend anything. The wires that I have were previously used on other rust removal projects. Some has little clamps on them. I could only use it on the shoe, pin, and the rear guide plate. For the rest of the vise components, I simply tightly wrap bare wires around the metal (not the best method but seems to be adequate). The vise components are hooked up to the negative lead while the sacrificial metal (short piece of rebar) is hook up to the positive lead of the charger (off). Oh yea, you really should do this in a well-ventilated area. The process generates hydrogen gas.

Not certain of the capacity of my charger and with limited wires, I elected to do task in several batches. I started with the front jaw assembly with the guide rods and main screw. I also included the shoe in the first batch. I got everything wire up and placed in the tub before adding the water. Because of the height of the front jaw, I have to fill it all the way up. The top portion of the jaw is sticking out just a bit, so I carefully top it off without to avoid clean up the mess. Next, I sprinkled the washing soda (little over 1 tea spoon per gallon) over the tub. It was definitely not a scientific measurement. Water was steered to ensure the washing soda dissolves, and turn power on for the charger. A minute or so I can see little bubbles rising from the metal parts.

I really don't have a method to gauge how much time is needed. I would think it is a combination of voltage, current, metal surface area, concentration of the electrolyte, and the surface area of the sacrificial metal. It is too complicated for me. I did notice that the rate of bubble rising is fairly frequent even after 12 hours, so I elected to wait it out. After the rising bubbles have subsided the components were removed and wire brushed to remove the black looking residue. Scrub, scrub, scrub, scrub….. rinse, rinse,rinse….. Now the screw was a challenge. I scrub the screw along the spiral of the threads. More scrub/rinse/scrub/rinse……….

I used a heat gun to dry the front jaw with the threaded and guide rods. You can clearly see a lite rust forming as the parts are being dry! I have seen this before when cleaning planes. After drying it I spray the entire surface with WD40. I use scotchbrite to scrub additional surface that seems to be more stubborn. I found a few burs on the vise and use a file gently filed it away. Overall it went pretty well. The threaded rod and guide rods shine quite well.

Basically I repeated the process for the remaining batches. It was really uneventful.Here are what the components look like after it has been cleaned.

I am concern about the burr marks on the main screw. It appears to be from the shoe. There is really no way of removing it. Is it part of the flaw in the design of this quick release vise? We'll have to wait on how it may impact on the functionality.

Overall, it looked pretty good.

I'll need to start thinking about the paint job. The original paint (now look "Gray") actually doesn't look bad. There are no flakes or chips. However, I think a fresh coat of paint would be good. Especially for the back jaw and the rear guide plate.

Click to expand...